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Rutibex posted:So I had an issue with my chess pieces. Because I don't have any kind of precise saw for making straight cuts most of my chess pieces are a bit weebly woobly. I would cut them as square as I can with a hack saw and use a Dremel to smooth out the bottom. Not the best but I did what I could: While that is a cool little sander and will be great for shaping on the belt, do you not have a parting tool to take them off the lathe? If you do, they should be pretty square or you could use a small skew to get a very square parting. meatpimp posted:Hi woodworking thread. I figured out my router issues (it was the lovely 20 year old chinesium bits) and I've been doing some woodworking:
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Aug 29, 2020 22:54
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The junk collector posted:While that is a cool little sander and will be great for shaping on the belt, do you not have a parting tool to take them off the lathe? If you do, they should be pretty square or you could use a small skew to get a very square parting. The way I do it I make two chess pieces out of each blank. I use the parting tool to separate them in the middle, but the ends are kind of rough because I cut them initially with a reciprocating saw. I don't want to use the middle parting as the bottom of the pieces, because I like the way it looks to have raw tree bark as the base. I will get the workflow down, it is a process in development  Edit: Wow you were right, the belt is much better than the disc. Rutibex fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Aug 30, 2020 |
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Aug 29, 2020 23:13
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If you put a concave bevel on the bottom as you part it off it keeps them from wobbling. Look at the bottom of cups/glasses for example.
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Aug 30, 2020 03:19
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Hey guys, I got a pile of resawing staring me in the face and I'm using it as an excuse to add a bandsaw to my shop. What would you recommend, and this https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/tls/d/bothell-delta-14-band-saw-accessories/7178006925.html is a bad idea correct?
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Aug 30, 2020 05:41
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Zosologist posted:Hey guys, I got a pile of resawing staring me in the face and I'm using it as an excuse to add a bandsaw to my shop. What would you recommend, and this $850 is pretty loving expensive for a used bandsaw
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Aug 30, 2020 06:23
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Sockser posted:$850 is pretty loving expensive for a used bandsaw Yeah I was trying to convince myself that since it was already set up for resawing... Anyway the guys kinda being a dick about it. Man the used market sucks currently.
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Aug 30, 2020 06:44
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Looks like a good bandsaw but not an 850 class bandsaw.
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Aug 30, 2020 06:44
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Zosologist posted:Hey guys, I got a pile of resawing staring me in the face and I'm using it as an excuse to add a bandsaw to my shop. What would you recommend, and this That bandsaw was clearly stolen from a Hyrule woodshop
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Aug 30, 2020 11:20
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$850 is the bottom end of new steel frame bandsaws. Thats where Rikon starts price wise (at least right now while they are running a sale). Lots of options between $850 and $1500 from Rikon, Jet, Laguna. A used cast iron frame delta, even with the riser block, shouldn't run more than $600 but as you noted the used market is super weird right now.
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Aug 30, 2020 12:37
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What's the difference in quality between an $850 bandsaw and a $1500 bandsaw? I was looking at bench-top bandsaws earlier and ended up ordering a used $100 scroll saw. It has become clear to me that I need to make straight cuts.
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Aug 30, 2020 13:16
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Meow Meow Meow posted:You could laminate 2 or three sheets of black veneer then use that for your stringing. You could laminate a couple sheets, then cut your slices and bend, or try a bent lamination, gluing a few strips onto your bend using blue tape as your clamps. This is what I'm going to wind up doing, and it's apparently what the people that make it are doing now that ebony isn't much of an option. I guess it's too hard to dye solid wood 1/8" square all the way through.
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Aug 30, 2020 13:53
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Ok, so there are multiple reasons a bandsaw could be $1500 and be compared to a $850 one. One is that it is a physically larger machine (18" vs 14") another would be that it is more fully featured / higher quality / more recognized brand. I'll focus on the second case. Things that differentiate a entry level 14" steel frame bandsaw from a top end one are:
Take a look at Laguna's lineup for an idea of feature progression. Cost also scales on wheel/throat size, and of course if you go up in both features and size then the price scales accordingly.
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Aug 30, 2020 14:59
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Zosologist posted:Hey guys, I got a pile of resawing staring me in the face and I'm using it as an excuse to add a bandsaw to my shop. What would you recommend, and this I'll echo everyone else on the price. I got the granddaddy of that saw from when it was Milwaukee Delta for $100. Some years ago. Also you should be able to set it up for resaw yourself, otherwise what's the point. There's been other saws mentioned itt with a much deeper resaw throat also. You should be able to get an equivalent import new for less than that, and I'm pretty sure Delta imports theirs also.
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Aug 30, 2020 15:52
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GEMorris posted:Ok, so there are multiple reasons a bandsaw could be $1500 and be compared to a $850 one. One is that it is a physically larger machine (18" vs 14") another would be that it is more fully featured / higher quality / more recognized brand. Thanks! Not that I could justify buying even a $850 bandsaw, but it's interesting to know these things so I can be properly jealous when I see a high end one. I am now noticing the differences in the fancy expensive lathes I see in youtube videos vs my tiny lovely WEN. Whoever said "welcome to your money pit" wasn't kidding. The more woodworking I do every day the more I want fancier tools
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Aug 30, 2020 16:09
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Since we're on the subject, any reason I should rethink buying a Laguna 14/BX bandsaw in 240v? Is there a better option I've overlooked in that $1500 range? Keeping in mind the 12x14 capacity Is the 3/4 blade width going to be a problem resawing lumber? Technically I have one on order already from a local dealer but I placed the order a month ago and still have no ETA. Laguna themselves said they have none available in country and are waiting for new stock from overseas, presumably a side effect of COVID disrupting supply chains. Rutibex posted:Whoever said "welcome to your money pit" wasn't kidding. The more woodworking I do every day the more I want fancier tools It can escalate, I had wanted to do this relatively cheaply as it's not my only hobby and I spend a limited amount of time on it as a result but the limited supply of used machines available where I live has me all of a sudden spending more on a bandsaw than I spent on the entire rest of my shop, over 3x what I spent on my table saw. (the Delta from Lowes) Elem7 fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Aug 30, 2020 |
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Aug 30, 2020 20:51
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I'd look at the machines from Harvey Distributing, they are the folks that bought Bridge City Tools and while ive not used one ive heard good things. If you like what you see sign up for their email marketing because they frequently send out codes for 20-40% off on different models. I think they are having a little trouble moving machines thanks to coronavirus and they are a small operation. Rikon is probably the best of the asian suppliers, not the same level as the italians and germans but certainly not bad. That said, laguna would be near the top of my list if I was in the market.
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Aug 30, 2020 22:47
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Elem7 posted:Since we're on the subject, any reason I should rethink buying a Laguna 14/BX bandsaw in 240v? Is there a better option I've overlooked in that $1500 range? Keeping in mind the 12x14 capacity Is the 3/4 blade width going to be a problem resawing lumber?
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Aug 31, 2020 00:51
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GEMorris posted:I'd look at the machines from Harvey Distributing, they are the folks that bought Bridge City Tools and while ive not used one ive heard good things. If you like what you see sign up for their email marketing because they frequently send out codes for 20-40% off on different models. I think they are having a little trouble moving machines thanks to coronavirus and they are a small operation. Laguna imports some nicely featured shapers and I'm trying to see if I think they're really as nice as they say they are vs Grizzly or used euro stuff. Elem7 posted:Since we're on the subject, any reason I should rethink buying a Laguna 14/BX bandsaw in 240v? Is there a better option I've overlooked in that $1500 range? Keeping in mind the 12x14 capacity Is the 3/4 blade width going to be a problem resawing lumber? Folks seem to get real hung up on resaw capacity but unless you are chopping up big bowl turning blanks or using it as a sawmill or something, I don't see the need. Even sawing out guitar backs you only need 8" or so. My saw has I think 17" of resaw, but I get pretty nervous resawing anything wider than 8" or so, and very very rarely have the need to do even that. I'd rather have more throat capacity in general. It looks like the 17" Grizzly's are about the same price if you could handle the larger footprint and wanted more throat? I know one or two people who have them and are happy with them. https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-17-2-HP-Extreme-Series-Bandsaw-with-Cast-Iron-Trunnion-Foot-Brake-Micro-Switch/G0513X2BF Wish I still got to use this chunky boi every day: 
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Aug 31, 2020 00:55
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It looks like the 17" Grizzly's are about the same price if you could handle the larger footprint and wanted more throat? I know one or two people who have them and are happy with them. I was looking at Grizzly at first due to them being more budget friendly but unfortunately there's no local place that carries them and their freight to where I live erased any savings and figured at equal cost I might as well go Laguna. Since we have local shops that carrie Laguna, Jet, and PowerMatic I can get those machines cheaper than some of the more budget friendly brands. I had looked at Harvey tools before too but no one local carried them. Discomancer posted:Do they have the 120v/1.75hp version in stock? In store no, at a warehouse ready to ship? They may have I didn't even ask since I kind of assumed I'd want the extra power if I ever actually used all the available capacity and I'll be running a new circuit for it anyways. Good to know I probably don't need to worry about it not having enough.
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Aug 31, 2020 01:20
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FWIW I've had the G0513X2 grizzly (which is like $1250) for ~3 years and it's absolutely excellent. The extra $250 really only gains a foot brake which is a cool luxury but wildly unnecessary. e: jesus christ I bought it just over 4 years ago Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Aug 31, 2020 |
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Aug 31, 2020 01:29
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The coupon code Foureyes10 works on the G0513X2 for 10% off. Brings it down from $1250 to $1075 (before tax and shipping and all that, which is a real killer for this type of stuff since it adds several hundred) Here’s the other stuff it works on btw: 
Elysium fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Aug 31, 2020 |
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Aug 31, 2020 01:42
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while talking about Grizzly and shipping...I still only have a jointer cabinet and no jointer 
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Aug 31, 2020 01:54
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Elysium posted:The coupon code Foureyes10 works on the G0513X2 for 10% off. drat. I'm waiting for a deal to pop up on the new(ish) G0891 fixed-bed 15" planer and every time I'm ready to buy it, there's no deal. That's a really good drop on the G0453Z though (and that was previously my top choice).
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Aug 31, 2020 03:55
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Do you know much about the differences between Laguna's asian import machines generally and Rikon/Grizzly/et al? Sadly no, all my laguna experience has been with the italian made stuff.
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Aug 31, 2020 04:07
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I want to get steam bending going anyway because I have a bunch of cedar I want to mill into strips and twist up. I just found out about Kumiko and I really want to explore turning flat surfaces into curves My dad recently got into Kumiko. He hasn’t done curves yet as far as I know but he did make us this really nice table. 
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Aug 31, 2020 15:11
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z0331 posted:My dad recently got into Kumiko. He hasn’t done curves yet as far as I know but he did make us this really nice table. Thats really nice, how do they do that some kind of scroll saw?
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Aug 31, 2020 15:30
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Rutibex posted:Thats really nice, how do they do that some kind of scroll saw? Hand planes and a couple jigs with the appropriate angles.
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Aug 31, 2020 15:37
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mds2 posted:Hand planes and a couple jigs with the appropriate angles.  The Japanese really have a lot of time on their hands
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Aug 31, 2020 15:41
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z0331 posted:My dad recently got into Kumiko. He hasn’t done curves yet as far as I know but he did make us this really nice table. That's amazing! Thank you for sharing. If you talk to him ask him what's the one tip he wished he knew before  Rutibex posted:
 Pretty sure Japanese people dont have any more time than anyone elseI'll be using a jig and table saw. Those are individual pieces placed and glued not cut in place Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Aug 31, 2020 |
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Aug 31, 2020 15:46
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:
I donno about that, Japanese traditional crafts feel to me to be a lot more labour intensive. Woodworking in particular. The fact that huge Japanese temples are made entirely with hand crafted joinery is extremely impressive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7708E1bmoxc
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Aug 31, 2020 16:02
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z0331 posted:My dad recently got into Kumiko. He hasn’t done curves yet as far as I know but he did make us this really nice table. 
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Aug 31, 2020 16:03
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Man I’m the worst at finishing, apparently. Baltic birch. 6 passes of Helmsman’s Spar Varnish under optimal weather temps. A week of waiting /drying. One night of light sprinkle and I see beading in little areas but mostly... not... and black spots in the grain now. Wtf.
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Aug 31, 2020 16:12
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Feenix posted:Man I’m the worst at finishing, apparently. Did you shake/stir the finish well before applying? All the solids can settle on the bottom of you don’t  Otherwise that sounds pretty bizarre. Did you brush on fairly thick coats?Rutibex posted:
I think it’s more that they make and take the time. Japan seems to be one of few modern advanced countries that really appreciates traditional handcrafts and are willing to pay for it. That makes it so their craftspeople are able to take the time needed for the very labor intensive processes involved in a lot of that work. I don’t know much about Japanese culture, but it’s my understanding that there’s a bit more appreciation of everyday objects as art/beautiful things worth treasuring than exists in the more cost-focused US?
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Aug 31, 2020 16:41
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think it’s more that they make and take the time. Japan seems to be one of few modern advanced countries that really appreciates traditional handcrafts and are willing to pay for it. That makes it so their craftspeople are able to take the time needed for the very labor intensive processes involved in a lot of that work. I think a lot of it has to do with the limited resources available to an island nation. When you only have so many trees to work with you will take the time to make the best use of them.
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Aug 31, 2020 16:44
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Did you shake/stir the finish well before applying? All the solids can settle on the bottom of you don’t 20 seconds of shaking before even passes of spraying. One generous coat. 12 inches away. 90 min per coat. 6 coats. Maybe a bad can? Idk...
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Aug 31, 2020 17:00
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Did you use any steel wool when getting it ready to finish? Seemingly microscopic steel fibers can get embedded in grain and start to rust under a finish.
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Aug 31, 2020 17:58
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Feenix posted:20 seconds of shaking before even passes of spraying. One generous coat. 12 inches away. 90 min per coat. 6 coats. Maybe a bad can? Idk... Brushing gets more of the solids in the finish onto the work, whereas sprayed stuff has to be thinned more and you lose a lot to overspray etc etc. You can scuff sand what you’ve already done and brush on some varnish over it no problem.
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Aug 31, 2020 18:36
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Oh you’re using a spray can! That’s probably your problem. To get a water resistant coating, you need a thick film and rattlecans....aren’t great for that. A sprayed ‘coat’ usually should leave the surface looking wet like water is puddled slightly on top. Two/thirds of what you spray on the wood is solvents and evaporates off, so you have to spray a fairly thick coat to leave any solids behind and build a thick film. It’s hard to do that very consistently over a large area with a spray can. Spray guns move a lot more material and spray it in a fan pattern that can leave a very consistent coat. Imma let it dry and do just that. Any simple/cheap/easy brands?
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Aug 31, 2020 20:36
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Oh you’re using a spray can! That’s probably your problem. To get a water resistant coating, you need a thick film and rattlecans....aren’t great for that. A sprayed ‘coat’ usually should leave the surface looking wet like water is puddled slightly on top. Two/thirds of what you spray on the wood is solvents and evaporates off, so you have to spray a fairly thick coat to leave any solids behind and build a thick film. It’s hard to do that very consistently over a large area with a spray can. Spray guns move a lot more material and spray it in a fan pattern that can leave a very consistent coat. Agree totally, but I'd like to toss in that baltic birch isn't really an outdoor get-rained-on plywood. There are other (albeit uglier) grades for exterior. albeit
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Aug 31, 2020 20:45
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Feenix posted:Imma let it dry and do just that. Any simple/cheap/easy brands? I haven't done a ton with spar varnish but I think the Helmsman stuff in the can that you brush on is fine. I think Epifanes is a fancy brand?
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Sep 1, 2020 00:53
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