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buglord posted:Oof okay, I was prepping myself for that reality. If it's in good shape aside from looking like rolling probable cause, go for it. If it's been well-maintained, it has a ton of life left in it. Corollas and their ilk (Prizm, Vibe, Matrix, etc) are occasionally popping up online with the odometers maxed out (they stop at 999,999. There's a reason you see so many older ones on the road, they just run forever so long as you take care of them. If you CAN afford a car payment, I'd just set whatever your ideal car payment is every month and put it into savings. Once repairs on the car start exceeding what a car payment would be (and I mean repairs, not stuff that just wears out from age - struts/shocks, regular maintenance, etc aren't something I'd count), use that money as a healthy down payment on a ~$10-15k used Corolla. If you want fancy, find a 1-3 year old certified pre-owned Corolla, Camry, etc. Someone else already took the major depreciation hit, and you'll have a healthy down payment on hand. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Aug 27, 2020 |
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Aug 27, 2020 23:49
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2000 FWD Toyota Sienna (gen 1) What am I looking at ballpark $$$ to get a custom skid plate made and installed in the SF Bay Area? I've torn off the plastic splash shields on big rocks a couple times already. And while the oil pan is steel and not especially exposed, I know I am courting disaster with some of the roads I drive on. Last week I found this guy abandoned on the trail, which is what got me thinking:   I'm not prepared to spend thousands on this, but definitely several hundred. Maybe $1,xxx. Is it feasible to get what I want with that budget? I don't think off-the-shelf skid plates exist for my vehicle.
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Aug 27, 2020 23:52
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A decent off road shop should be able to fab something up out of plate. No loving clue what it'd cost, but if there's nothing available off the shelf, your only other option is seeing if one from, say, an early RX300 might be able to work - both the Sienna and RX series are based on the Camry platform. Closest shot you have at finding something off the shelf that can be modified to work, but I'm not having much luck finding anything. The gently caress was a Civic doing out there, anyway? That doesn't have the ground clearance to even think about going over those pebbles. I've been on similar roads in my car, but it sits a lot higher... and I know not to straddle that kind of poo poo, you gotta go around unless you're in a decent offroader. You should probably call the USFS (assuming national park) if it's still out there in a couple of days. They're going to be a bit unhappy about someone (a) abandoning a car with not enough room to get around and (b) dumping oil everywhere. They'll lean on the owner pretty hard to get it out of there ASAP. Alternatively, whatever agency handles state parks in your area. Otherwise, that looks like a Cali plate, so maybe California State Parks would be interested (assuming this is cali)? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Aug 28, 2020 |
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Aug 27, 2020 23:55
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Oof, bad day.
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Aug 28, 2020 00:14
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STR posted:The gently caress was a Civic doing out there, anyway? Violating their lease terms, lmao. It was 15 miles from the nearest paved road in the Kiavah Wilderness. STR posted:You should probably call the USFS (assuming national park) if it's still out there in a couple of days. They're going to be a bit unhappy about someone (a) abandoning a car with not enough room to get around and (b) dumping oil everywhere. The scene had a real Death Valley Germans vibe, so I called it in to the sheriff over ham radio. They sent two deputies to point and laugh. Apparently this vehicle was reported high-centered further down the trail a week earlier. We're guessing the owner was trying to tow it out when it encountered that rock.  cast aluminum oil pan
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Aug 28, 2020 00:19
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Well at least it's not a plastic oil pan like some cars have now.
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Aug 28, 2020 00:35
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If something has to be fabbed up from scratch by a shop, I'd wager somewhere in the $500-$1k range, depending on how large and how strong it actually ends up being and how much they charge for time planning it all out. Mass-produced skid plates for popular applications end up in the $200-500 range pretty often.
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Aug 28, 2020 00:42
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buglord posted:Oof okay, I was prepping myself for that reality. Id probably start by getting an estimate or two. Repairpal.com puts the repair at right around $1800, which is more than Id put into it, but I got no idea if thats right. If its close though, thats about as much as the car is worth in good condition. 
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Aug 28, 2020 03:06
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two_beer_bishes posted:Well I hosed up my driveway. I was fixing some rust on our trailer with corroseal rust convertor, it said that it cleans up with soap and water so I didn't bother putting a drop cloth down, now there are black spots of dried corroseal (magnetite?) that the pressure washer wouldn't even take off. I tried scrubbing with mineral spirits but that didn't do poo poo either, same with simple green. How bad did I gently caress up? Iirc muriatic acid is used to clean concrete by etching, I think that would work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHcin3QJX_A
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Aug 28, 2020 03:17
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taqueso posted:Iirc muriatic acid is used to clean concrete by etching, I think that would work. I'll give that a shot, thanks!
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Aug 28, 2020 14:36
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nitsuga posted:Id probably start by getting an estimate or two. Repairpal.com puts the repair at right around $1800, which is more than Id put into it, but I got no idea if thats right. If its close though, thats about as much as the car is worth in good condition. That's likely if done by a dealer using an OEM part. There's some aftermarket cats out there that are CARB approved, you just have to dig for them. RepairPal skews toward the very high end of costs, fake edit: I found a list of approved aftermarket cats. For vehicle class, "PC" is what you're after. Walker's direct-fit bolt-in replacement (part # 81764 per Walker's website, plus you'll need an exhaust gasket) looks to run a little over $400, and it should take someone an hour or so to install (you could DIY if the bolts aren't rusty). Walker #82603 is a universal one for about $225-250 depending where you order it, but it's also approved. You'll need someone with a cutting torch and welder to install it (so probably an exhaust shop - might be a little cheaper this way). Either way, make sure to keep a copy of the CARB exemption order that comes with the cat with the car at all times. Lots of other brands on there, Walker just happened to be at the top of the list, and they're a known good brand. real edit: IMO you can probably get this done for $400ish if you go with the chop/weld method, $600-700ish if you go with the direct bolt-in method (probably the lower end of that range). They're the same cat, one just has the flanges already welded on... while the other will have to be cut out if it fails again. This is a guess, just going by Amazon and Rockauto prices for the two different cats and the assumption it'll take someone an hour to swap it, but I have no idea what California labor rates are like. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Aug 28, 2020 |
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Aug 28, 2020 14:41
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STR posted:That's likely if done by a dealer using an OEM part. There's some aftermarket cats out there that are CARB approved, you just have to dig for them. RepairPal skews toward the very high end of costs, Yeah, I should've mentioned that it was 90% or so parts for their estimate, didn't think to check RockAuto either.  To be helpful, here's a link: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3382068&cc=1432913&jsn=844 nitsuga fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Aug 29, 2020 |
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Aug 28, 2020 20:11
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MAKE SURE whatever cat you order is on that CARB list I linked (it lists by series, not model # - so 81000 cover 81764). Then use the cat maker's website to look up the exact cat you'll need, and make sure they note it as being CARB approved (Walker has a Catalytic Converter - California section on their website). You can just type part numbers into Rockauto; it'll pop up the cat and show CARB approved. Often their regular parts lookup will only show non-CARB approved cats for some reason. Amazon will sometimes carry them for a comparable price once you factor in shipping too, but you'll need an exact part number.
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Aug 29, 2020 15:28
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So after I got new tein flex z coilovers installed on my 2012 civic Si, ive been hearing a knocking/popping coming from the rear suspension at low speeds (particularly when turning into a driveway) and when going over bumps. I took it back to the mechanic who installed some rubber sheaths on the springs (which are divorced from the dampers in the rear), but theyre just as noisy. If the problem is indeed coil binding, is there anything else I can do to fix the noise? Would adjusting the spring pre-load possibly help? Any other ideas on the source of this noise?
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Aug 29, 2020 22:34
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Coil bind should basically never happen at anything shy of absolute maximum uptravel on the suspension, which makes me think you have the wrong springs for your ride height.
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Aug 29, 2020 23:30
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Figured it out, thanks!
Bank fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Aug 31, 2020 |
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Aug 30, 2020 02:04
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IOwnCalculus posted:Coil bind should basically never happen at anything shy of absolute maximum uptravel on the suspension, which makes me think you have the wrong springs for your ride height. IOwnCalculus posted:Coil bind should basically never happen at anything shy of absolute maximum uptravel on the suspension, which makes me think you have the wrong springs for your ride height. Huh, these ones were made for the specific model and year of the car. I know the ride height can be adjusted independently of the spring pre-load.
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Aug 30, 2020 02:58
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Bought a 2020 Camry Hybrid here in Denmark, would like to get a rear towbar for a bike rack. I can see from various sites the hybrid is rated up to 400 kg towing, but sweet Jesus I cannot find a source that will sell me a tow bar and wiring harness here in DK. Any pointers? Is the Camry not approved in the EU? Just too new? (There are probably only a couple dozen in DK yet.)
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Aug 30, 2020 09:39
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If the Camry isn't approved then how did you get it?  I would just call around a few places that sell tow hooks and do installs. It's probably too new.
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Aug 30, 2020 13:55
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Head Bee Guy posted:So after I got new tein flex z coilovers installed on my 2012 civic Si, i’ve been hearing a knocking/popping coming from the rear suspension at low speeds (particularly when turning into a driveway) and when going over bumps. I took it back to the mechanic who installed some rubber sheaths on the springs (which are divorced from the dampers in the rear), but they’re just as noisy. If the problem is indeed coil binding, is there anything else I can do to fix the noise? Would adjusting the spring pre-load possibly help? Any other ideas on the source of this noise? I would send whoever sold you those coilovers your picture and see what they say. Your springs should not be crunched together like that, they are effectively doing nothing if that's how it looks while sitting still. Might be you got sent the wrong set, could be a manufacturing defect, maybe installation error even.
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Aug 30, 2020 15:13
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Is that the coilover shock in the foreground... ...with the spring that is supposed to be installed on it, in the pocket for the stock spring? Edit: this is apparently how they do the rears, wtf. Not coilovers at all. Random video I found the springs are loving tiny to begin with but even then this doesn't look right. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Aug 30, 2020 |
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Aug 30, 2020 15:35
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I recently purchased a 2002 Subaru Forester for a fair price, and have put some additional money into getting it safe to drive, but I've been noticing over the months that I've been feeling somewhat ill, and it seems to correlate to periods of consecutive weeks when I drive the vehicle. Symptoms are head focused, feeling like general bleariness, kind of what I remember a very mild hangover might feel like. I've been taking a break from driving it, but at it's worst point, I was starting to get the onsets of a migraine that wasn't going away with sleep. I've recovered from this since then. Originally I thought it was evap leaks, but after getting the lines replaced and removing the fuel smell, I still am feeling affected. At this point I wish I could just get a different car, but I can't really afford to. What other likely car problems might cause symptoms like this? I've been driving with the windows rolled down for the fresh air, and nobody else who's ridden with me seems to notice anything immediate. It is possible my symptoms are unrelated and that I'm imagining a correlation with the car, but I suspect it's some kind of fume entering the cab? Worth mentioning that I have anosmia, so I can't pick up on smells very well. edit: I did place a home carbon monoxide detector in the car at one point, and no traces of that, at least. Amorphous Abode fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Aug 30, 2020 |
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Aug 30, 2020 16:51
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The Silver Snail posted:I recently purchased a 2002 Subaru Forester for a fair price, and have put some additional money into getting it safe to drive, but I've been noticing over the months that I've been feeling somewhat ill, and it seems to correlate to periods of consecutive weeks when I drive the vehicle. Symptoms are head focused, feeling like general bleariness, kind of what I remember a a very mild hangover might feel like. I've been taking a break from driving it, but at it's worst point, I was starting to get the onsets of a migraine that wasn't going away with sleep. I've recovered from this since then. So I was working on a 2000 Forrester that had been parked for a few years. It smelled like crazy mold. I took out the cabin air filter, and it was entirely clogged with years of leaves and rot and god knows what else. I cleaned everything out, and ran some BG Frigi-Fresh (basically lysol for your A/C evaporator core) through the vents, and put new filters in. That fixed it. If you're in a rust-prone area - the fuel filler neck is a common failure on these cars too.
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Aug 30, 2020 17:02
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Is there any reason why I only see this kind of design for billet exhaust manifold being made for diesel? Seems like a really good design for gas cars too unless I'm missing something https://steedspeed.com/
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Aug 31, 2020 00:06
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2004 Ford Escape; 210,000 miles; I've had it since 2005 Got in a fender bender five years ago, and things have constantly been falling apart since then. Most recently, it was running really loud, took it to a mechanic, who said we'd have to replace the AC compressor and power steering pump. He estimated the repairs to cost $2200. Since then, the AC compressor froze, and the engine wouldn't turn over. Tried to start it a couple more times, and the serpentine belt snapped. It starts now and the loud sound is gone, but it has no power steering and the battery doesn't charge. Anyway, we were planning on selling this car a couple of years ago when it first started falling apart, but I held onto it because I still really liked driving it. We're getting rid of it either way, because we have a car that works now, and the Escape is just taking up room in our driveway. We could fix the power steering pump ourselves, but not the AC compressor. What's my best option? I don't know that I could get much more out of it than the repair cost, but it seems a waste to just take it to the junkyard when most of the car is in fine working order. Is there another option I'm missing here?
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Aug 31, 2020 04:33
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You may be able to bypass the AC compressor in some way. If you're lucky you can do it with a shorter belt only. A quick Google shows that it might need a pulley installed to do it. Alternatively if you are capable of swapping the power steering pump, you are probably capable of swapping the compressor too with the same tools, other than actually discharging / recharging the system.
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Aug 31, 2020 04:41
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The Silver Snail posted:I recently purchased a 2002 Subaru Forester for a fair price, and have put some additional money into getting it safe to drive, but I've been noticing over the months that I've been feeling somewhat ill, and it seems to correlate to periods of consecutive weeks when I drive the vehicle. Symptoms are head focused, feeling like general bleariness, kind of what I remember a very mild hangover might feel like. I've been taking a break from driving it, but at it's worst point, I was starting to get the onsets of a migraine that wasn't going away with sleep. I've recovered from this since then.
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Aug 31, 2020 07:04
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IOwnCalculus posted:Alternatively if you are capable of swapping the power steering pump, you are probably capable of swapping the compressor too with the same tools, other than actually discharging / recharging the system. I wouldn't even bother recharging it - there's likely black death in there since it locked up. It'll just take out the new compressor in a few hours. cuber, what happens if you unplug the AC compressor's electrical plug? That'd be for the clutch on it. Can you turn the pulley, or is it still locked up? If it'll turn with it unplugged, slap a new belt on and call it a day. Ford power steering pumps are noisy as hell too, that's just what they do when they get a few years on them. So long as the power steering is still functional, just ignore the whine and keep it topped off with fluid - it's the mating call of an oncoming Ford.  Otherwise, like IoC suggested, you can probably swap a pulley and use a different belt and just leave the belt off of the compressor. Fixing the AC now that the compressor has seized will cost multitudes more than the car is worth, since you'll have to replace quite literally every component that's connected to the compressor (including the evaporator core, which is usually a dash-out job).
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Aug 31, 2020 12:37
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Oz Fox posted:Is there any reason why I only see this kind of design for billet exhaust manifold being made for diesel? Seems like a really good design for gas cars too unless I'm missing something Look up a turbo manifold for a Jeep 4.0 or an old Ford 300 and it'll look pretty similar. BMW turbo setups are a bit more snakey to match the length of the tubes as closely as practical. I don't have a great grasp on exhaust physics but I think that has to do with the fact that they're higher-revving engines and need to care about timing of pulses where the trucks just want to get the exhaust to the turbo as quickly as possible.
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Aug 31, 2020 18:28
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STR posted:I wouldn't even bother recharging it - there's likely black death in there since it locked up. It'll just take out the new compressor in a few hours. Oh yeah, I agree - I'm just saying you could probably slap a junkyard compressor that at least still has a good pulley / clutch on it, not bother recharging it, and possibly be able to get that done for the same as buying custom pulleys to bypass the compressor. wolrah posted:That looks like a pretty normal turbo I6 manifold to me, and the reason they're not common outside of diesel probably has to do with the fact that the I6 layout in general isn't really common outside of diesel and BMW. I'm also not seeing a whole lot of benefit to those manifolds being sliced out of billet. I can't imagine the flow of that manifold is going to be much different than the modern design for a cast log manifold, and they're not eliminating welding from their process either.
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Aug 31, 2020 19:55
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Hey all, how can I determine the metal used on a truck rim? Bought a storage unit Monday with a rim in it. It's a 22" rim that has a dent in it, so probably going to a scrap yard. Would like to know what I'm looking at before going in so they don't try to bone me. I haven't weighed it yet or anything. Photo of it in the unit below. 
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Sep 1, 2020 08:11
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Magnet. If its steel it sticks, aluminum it won't. Its probably not magnesium.
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Sep 1, 2020 11:25
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Does anyone here know of any good cheat codes or clever tricks to get an axle out of the hub? I have a bad left rear wheel bearing on my 02 Miata, and I passed the first challenge of getting the lower bolt out with some creative chemistry (the Urine of the Panther potion). I then failed the side quest and broke off both the bolts for the ABS sensor, but I'm pretty sure I can fix that later. Now, it seems the axle splines are mightily stuck to the hub. Regular hammer violence didn't do it, the biggest puller I had did absolutely nothing, so I took the axle out with it and managed to fit the whole thing in a press. It's pressing on the spindle via the bearing, but that's the only way I could get it set up, I could not place it on the hub flange on anything strong enough.  That is allegedly a 10 ton press. I went as far as 7 tons on the gauge and it wouldn't budge. Then I applied liberal amounts of oxyacetylene on the hub flange and the part of the axle sticking out, pressure went up to 7.5 just from heat expansion, still nothing. It seems like a ridiculous amount of force, never had to do anything even close to this to get a driveshaft out and I wouldn't have been too surprised if this would break or bend the spindle itself. I could try applying even more heat, but I'd rather not kill the CV joint. I figure this should be the last thing between me and the final bearing boss fight where I hope the press will do the job easily, but I'm not sure what to do about this. Plz halp.
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Sep 1, 2020 15:14
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2006 Mazda 3, bought it about 2 months ago and haven't had any issues. Driving to school this morning, realized my stereo cut out. Further investigation showed it cut out whenever I put my blinker on. By the time I got to my school, my car had stalled out when I out my hazards on at a stop (started right back up, though I was rolling a bit, not sure if that helped), power steering cut out whenever I had my blinker or brakes on, and the rpms would surge back when I put my blinker on (A/C and stereo were off at this point, I realized it was some type of electrical issue). When my car was parked, A/C on full blast, hazards on, brakes applied, stereo on high everything seemed to work fine. Obviously I'm going to to get my alternator/battery checked ASAP, but if they both check out, do I have any recourse? There's a quite shady aftermarket head unit and stereo in this, which I suspect would be the source of any wiring issues. I really like this car and I would hate to have to get rid of it because someone decided to wire it like an MC Escher painting. If the wiring of the stereo was messed up, could correctly installing a new head unit alleviate the issue?
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Sep 1, 2020 15:18
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wesleywillis posted:Magnet. This, and the odds of it being steel at 22" are basically zero.
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Sep 1, 2020 15:44
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We moved from a no-front-plate state to a front-plate state so we have to attach the front license plate holder bracket. The Honda HR-V just has these 3 little depressions in the plastic of the front grill marking where the 3 holes of the bracket screw on. The bracket itself has 4 little depressions similarly marking where the license plate screws go. The bag has a hole in it and 1 license plate screw inside, the sharp-tipped 1/4" kind that kinda resembles a sheet metal screw. It's unclear if this is also meant to be the same kind of screw that holds the bracket onto the grill, but it fits nicely into the mounting hole in the bracket, so I'm inclined to think so. So I have to go buy 6 more of them. (All the parts diagrams I found don't mention anything about screw type) Do I need to drill pilot holes? Do I need some kind of weird nut or retainer to hold the screws in place? Or do I just screw'em on in to the plastic and let the plastic do the holding? I've never put a license plate onto pristine, untouched plastic before 
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Sep 1, 2020 16:42
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alnilam posted:We moved from a no-front-plate state to a front-plate state so we have to attach the front license plate holder bracket. I would suggest you get something with screws and anchors (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Rightcar-Sol...VC9B4BET7H36J6R) for mounting the frame. You will need to pre-drill with the correct sized bit, press the anchors in, and then screw the frame into the anchors. While you can get away with just sinking the self tapper through the frame into the bumper, they are a lot more likely to pull out.
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Sep 1, 2020 17:08
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ionn posted:Does anyone here know of any good cheat codes or clever tricks to get an axle out of the hub? Been there with my Outback. We bent the press.  You need to be heating the hub, not the axle stub. And you need to get it glowing. It's gonna sound like a drat shotgun when it finally lets go (KEEP YOUR FEET AWAY FROM THE OTHER END OF THE AXLE). If the bearing isn't part of the hub, you're gonna need a new bearing too. It might go all at once, or you may still need to hammer it out. You may need a new axle after it's all done, if the end of it got mushroomed.
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Sep 1, 2020 18:02
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DildenAnders posted:2006 Mazda 3, bought it about 2 months ago and haven't had any issues. Driving to school this morning, realized my stereo cut out. Further investigation showed it cut out whenever I put my blinker on. By the time I got to my school, my car had stalled out when I out my hazards on at a stop (started right back up, though I was rolling a bit, not sure if that helped), power steering cut out whenever I had my blinker or brakes on, and the rpms would surge back when I put my blinker on (A/C and stereo were off at this point, I realized it was some type of electrical issue). When my car was parked, A/C on full blast, hazards on, brakes applied, stereo on high everything seemed to work fine. I'd guess a ground connection somewhere has come undone.
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Sep 1, 2020 18:07
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Motronic posted:I would suggest you get something with screws and anchors (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Rightcar-Sol...VC9B4BET7H36J6R) for mounting the frame. You will need to pre-drill with the correct sized bit, press the anchors in, and then screw the frame into the anchors. Thanks, that's sort of what I was worried about. I assume you press the anchors in from the back? I'll look for some with anchors and hope I can reach around the back of the grill easily enough to push them in.
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Sep 1, 2020 18:11
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