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alnilam posted:Thanks, that's sort of what I was worried about. I assume you press the anchors in from the back? I'll look for some with anchors and hope I can reach around the back of the grill easily enough to push them in. If you can't get at it from up top, try getting at it from underneath. There might be a plastic piece under the engine compartment that you need to remove in order to get behind the front bumper.
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Sep 1, 2020 18:32
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Charles posted:I'd guess a ground connection somewhere has come undone. ****EDIT****: Drive to autozone was fine, had all the electrical components on I could think of for the ride and had no problems. Guy at autozone couldn't get the tester to work, it kept crackling and then shutting off. At this point I'll just hope nothing else goes wrong until I can get it into a shop. DildenAnders fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Sep 1, 2020 |
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Sep 1, 2020 18:32
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DildenAnders posted:Would an alternator test from a place like autozone distinguish between that and a bad alternator (assuming I can get to autozone)? I think so, though I haven't had it done myself. It's a good idea to try. If you want it's very easy to take out the (stock at least) stereos on these cars. You open the glove box and remove the horizontal trim starting from right to left (find a YouTube so you don't break the clips) and then it's two screws and the whole shebang comes out, iirc. Edit: some cars do weird stuff when the battery is dying too, though my experience with the 3 is the dashboard kinda fades especially while turning and the headlights go dim.
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Sep 1, 2020 19:15
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STR posted:Been there with my Outback. We bent the press. I can se my press deforming some when going that far, which is part of the reason I didn't go further as the whole setup could have just sprung apart. It is the cheapest chinesium 10T press around, and I do not have too much faith in it. Never really intended to use it much beyond a couple of tons, which is usually enough to press wheel bearings and such. I am heating the hub, it's just inevitable that the end of the axle will catch some of the blast too (as well as being very much in close contact with the hub). I found and mounted the bigger nozzle on the torch, so next attempt will be full blast. It is now soaking in chemistry overnight, and I will have another go at it tomorrow, and will put wet rags over the CV joint to avoid heating that up too much. Might still regrease it just to be safe. The end of the axle may be very slightly deformed, the part sticking out outside the threads is slightly conical but very evenly so if it has indeed been mushroomed. Not sure if it was like that or if I did it, but the nut still fits fine over it and there is no deformation to the threaded area. I turned up a "bushing" to whack on that fits over the stub of the axle just to even out the violence a bit. I will need a new bearing no matter what. Replacing it was the reason to do this in the first place, and after getting it hot and have all its grease melt, it is now grinding as gently caress.
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Sep 1, 2020 20:46
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https://www.google.com/amp/s/theconversation.com/amp/ive-always-wondered-are-suvs-and-4wds-safer-than-other-cars-98559 Small CUVs have been demonstrated to actually be less safe in accidents than small cars, and it's compounded by people driving more aggresively in them (probably in large part due to the fact they think they're safe.) For larger SUVs it's a different story, but more weight doesn't really mean it's more safe. Remember KE=(1/2)mv^2. Any increase in weight leads to a proportional increase in energy at any given speed.
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Sep 1, 2020 23:13
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If I swap the right parts around can I get the electronics to play nice with each other, also will the parts bolt up? I have a 99 Park Avenue Ultra with a bad transmission and 160k on it. Through chance I picked up a project 95 or 96 Riviera with a supercharged 3800 (not original, with headers and a bunch of pulleys in the trunk) and rebuilt transmission (original to the car). Supposedly the motor is a series 2 with new internals with the N/A parts for higher compression, the heads have been ported, the intake ported, supercharger rebuilt and ported, northstar throttle body, and only needs bigger injectors and the correct map sensor to be complete. If the blocks are both series 2 I should be able to swap it as a longblock and as long as I have the sensors swapped over from the 99 engine to other block the computer should be able to handle it after tuning, correct? It looks like the transmission should swap too as long as its a hd but that depends on year from what I've read. Before I try and find a 3800 forum I thought I'd check here to see if there are too many differences in the years.
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Sep 1, 2020 23:26
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ionn posted:I can se my press deforming some when going that far, which is part of the reason I didn't go further as the whole setup could have just sprung apart. It is the cheapest chinesium 10T press around, and I do not have too much faith in it. Never really intended to use it much beyond a couple of tons, which is usually enough to press wheel bearings and such. As long as the nut still spins on, you're good. The shop I was using had a Harbor Freight 20 ton press. The owner of the shop was the one who deformed it.  Oh hey, I even found a pic!  SpeedFreek posted:If I swap the right parts around can I get the electronics to play nice with each other, also will the parts bolt up? AFTER tuning, I don't see why not, assuming HPTuners or your tuning software of choice supports the specific PCM/engine combo, and you swap whatever later model sensors the PCM is expecting over. The Ultra is factory supercharged to start with, correct? It'll run like rear end before tuning since it has some work done, but you should be able to swap everything over, drop it in, and it might idle/drive at low RPMs (unplugging the MAF might put it in a limp map, which might make it easier to drive to the tuning shop). Just keep your foot the gently caress out of the giggle pedal until it's properly tuned, you should barely touch the gigglepedal at all (enough to do a 0-30 in 30 seconds if you have to drive it for tuning) My biggest concerns to even get it running would be the MAP and throttle position sensors. The injectors... you might want to run it on the originals and go directly to whatever tuning shop you're going to use, with a very light foot. Have someone slap a shift kit into the transaxle since it's already off, if you know it's good. I say this because otherwise it's going to run pig rich and likely destroy your cat(s), or lean out to 20:1 and knock your rings to death if you lay into it. I assume the Northstar throttle body is a bit bigger, since 4.6 > 3.8, but likely uses a similar GM parts bin TPS. Worst thing I can see is swapping a different TPS on, or swapping the plug on the TPS to match the Northstar TPS. GM's V6s and V8s tend to stick with a pretty generic 0-5v design, the pin out and how far it can go just changes between motors. Also, "known good" in Craigslist/FB Marketplace ads is a big red flag. You want to hear this engine run, or at the least, spin it over with the starter and do a compression test. You don't want to buy someone else's "whoopsiedoodle". At the absolute least, if it's a hell of a bargain, spin it over with a breaker bar and make sure it's smooth (aside from the usual fight with the compression stroke). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Sep 1, 2020 |
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Sep 1, 2020 23:30
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Any of you parts wizards know where to find one of these except actually in stock?
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Sep 1, 2020 23:52
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Is it for a blue or red car? (seriously, what's it for... that part number doesn't really turn much up) e: turned up an application for an evap pressure sensor for a 2002 Toyota RAV4 (probably has multiple applications). Your nearest DIY junkyard is your best bet; you're not gonna find that on the shelf at most places (between age and how rarely that part fails). If you have the part in your hand, look up the part number; EVAP pressure sensors are sometimes repurposed MAP sensors, and might even carry the same part number.. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Sep 2, 2020 |
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Sep 1, 2020 23:55
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Motronic posted:I would suggest you get something with screws and anchors (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Rightcar-Sol...VC9B4BET7H36J6R) for mounting the frame. You will need to pre-drill with the correct sized bit, press the anchors in, and then screw the frame into the anchors. Okay I got some of these at auto zone, but they're square (they all seem to be square, even the ones you linked). Do they still push through a round hole? I also can't find anywhere saying what size hole though i can probably just put some calipers on the narrowest part of the nut.
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Sep 2, 2020 00:00
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STR posted:Is it for a blue or red car? I'm looking for a vapor pressure sensor assembly for a 2000 tacoma v6, I also have Toyota # 89460-02020 according to the recipt from the last time this happened. e: n/m, popping that number into rockauto was a bingo. Skinnymansbeerbelly fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Sep 2, 2020 |
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Sep 2, 2020 00:00
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alnilam posted:Thanks, that's sort of what I was worried about. I assume you press the anchors in from the back? I'll look for some with anchors and hope I can reach around the back of the grill easily enough to push them in. They will go in from the front of the holes you drilled. They are made to expand when the correct screw goes into them so you don't need to do it from the back. Makes it nice and easy.
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Sep 2, 2020 00:01
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Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:I'm looking for a vapor pressure sensor assembly for a 2000 tacoma v6, I also have Toyota # 89460-02020 according to the recipt from the last time this happened. So I was right about it being a Toyota. That said, that part # is for a 00-02 Corolla. Rockauto's Tacoma part is out of stock, your best bet is to hit junkyards and look for 98-00 Tacoma V6s (that's the only cross I'm getting with that p/n). It sounds like it might be compatible with the 00-02 Corolla, or they just rang it up wrong (the 00-02 Corolla part is cheaper, so it worked in your favor). How the hell have you managed to kill 2 of them? Do you keep trying to top off your tank after the filler clicks off? That's the only thing that normally kills a fuel tank pressure sensor (along with your entire evap system). alnilam posted:Okay I got some of these at auto zone, but they're square (they all seem to be square, even the ones you linked). Do they still push through a round hole? I also can't find anywhere saying what size hole though i can probably just put some calipers on the narrowest part of the nut. Yes, they do. I know it's square peg round hole, but it does work. They push through and kinda snap into place.
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Sep 2, 2020 00:13
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In 330k miles, I have hit a malfunctioning gas pump or two. Why does it take months for it to pop after an overfill anyway?
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Sep 2, 2020 00:17
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Nevermind, didn't realize you'd been to the moon.
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Sep 2, 2020 00:30
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Toyota ownership: trying to make it back from the moon.
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Sep 2, 2020 00:36
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alnilam posted:Okay I got some of these at auto zone, but they're square (they all seem to be square, even the ones you linked). Do they still push through a round hole? I also can't find anywhere saying what size hole though i can probably just put some calipers on the narrowest part of the nut. Sorry missed this before my last reply. Yeah, just get a drill bit that looks like it's the smallest diameter they will pass through. Then go a bit smaller, drill a hole, see if they pop in. If not, go up a size.
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Sep 2, 2020 01:55
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The ultra came supercharged, for its size it would move when you wanted it to but the transmissions are weak. With the tuning shop I was looking at I need it running or its a huge markup but I planned to trailer it in after I get it started. The guy I picked it up from said he had it running once or twice in the Riviera but ran like crap without being tuned and the undersized injectors. I picked up the Riviera for the transmission, it had paperwork for the transmission which looks like it was beefed up a bit and a receipt for the machine work on the block when it was rebuilt. I could have pulled the headers and pulley kit and dumped it and came out ahead so if I can swap everything over even better.
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Sep 2, 2020 03:39
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I need to buy new tires for my 2007 Honda Civic, and I don't have the emotional/mental energy for this right now. Can anyone recommend a mid-range / decent tire? Am I overthinking this? About me as a driver: I like to drive through the country once or twice a week, about 1-2 hours each trip. Don't see myself commuting anytime soon, but I do drive ~To The Big City~ once or twice a week as well, about 1.5 hours roundtrip highway. I live in the SE U.S., so all weather tires are fine. I guess I would like something quieter. I'm probably over thinking this.
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Sep 2, 2020 20:05
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Spanish Inquisition posted:I need to buy new tires for my 2007 Honda Civic, and I don't have the emotional/mental energy for this right now. What size wheels? Which trim is your Civic?
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Sep 2, 2020 21:05
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Go to Tire Rack, put in your car info, sort by rating. It's usually the most expensive tires at the top, then a set or two significantly cheaper and only moderately "worse". That's what I generally buy. Set the options to all season and not sport to weed those out. I would cross shop Discount Tire, Costco, and, yes, Walmart.
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Sep 2, 2020 21:07
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I've saved a couple hundred bucks on my last 2 sets of tires by buying them at Walmart. I just happened to catch them on a crazy sale somehow. Now letting Walmart touch you car... that's another discussion. My wife got the tires installed and they installed the wrong ones.
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Sep 2, 2020 21:40
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DildenAnders posted:****EDIT****: Drive to autozone was fine, had all the electrical components on I could think of for the ride and had no problems. Guy at autozone couldn't get the tester to work, it kept crackling and then shutting off. At this point I'll just hope nothing else goes wrong until I can get it into a shop. If you haven't taken it to a shop yet, might be worth checking the negative battery terminal for corrosion. My wife had a similar vintage Mazda 6 that had a batshit electrical problem - turned on the rear defroster and pretty much every light on the dash lit up and the gauge needles looked like they were having a seizure, plus the wipers started running and the engine cut out - that was resolved by cleaning the battery terminals and applying dielectric grease.
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Sep 2, 2020 22:12
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Charles posted:What size wheels? Which trim is your Civic? P205/55R 16 and EX. Is the trim important? skipdogg posted:I've saved a couple hundred bucks on my last 2 sets of tires by buying them at Walmart. I just happened to catch them on a crazy sale somehow. Now letting Walmart touch you car... that's another discussion. My wife got the tires installed and they installed the wrong ones. I think I'm just gonna get a set of Kenda tires from the Tire Discounters down the road, unless that's a bad brand. The set I'm looking at does appear to be cheaper at WalMart, but I'm ok to pay TD to take care of everything.
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Sep 3, 2020 00:06
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Spanish Inquisition posted:I think I'm just gonna get a set of Kenda tires from the Tire Discounters down the road, unless that's a bad brand. It's less about brand and more about the specific tire. Do you have more details?
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Sep 3, 2020 00:38
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Spanish Inquisition posted:P205/55R 16 and EX. Is the trim important? It's easier to input to Tirerack.com to look at reviews with the trim is all. Sometimes it adds TPMS, etc.
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Sep 3, 2020 00:48
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https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...an&autoModClar= These seem to be among the more reasonably priced of good tires. There are also some reasonably priced Generals. Remember, it's literally the most important safety device of your car. I don't see Kenda being sold by Tire Rack or Discount Tire, which isn't a great sign.
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Sep 3, 2020 00:57
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Uthor posted:It's less about brand and more about the specific tire. Do you have more details? Here's the manufacturer's site. Seems to get decent reviews across the few sites I checked. Charles posted:https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...an&autoModClar= Ah, yeah, that's a good reminder... it's the thing separating me/car from the road. Thank you. Spanish Inquisition fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Sep 3, 2020 |
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Sep 3, 2020 01:07
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Geoj posted:If you haven't taken it to a shop yet, might be worth checking the negative battery terminal for corrosion. My wife had a similar vintage Mazda 6 that had a batshit electrical problem - turned on the rear defroster and pretty much every light on the dash lit up and the gauge needles looked like they were having a seizure, plus the wipers started running and the engine cut out - that was resolved by cleaning the battery terminals and applying dielectric grease. That's a good idea, I was actually buying a terminal scraper and some dielectric grease for my brothers car, so I'll do that ASAP. Positive is clean as a whistle, but the negative is kind of grody. Hopefully that's where the problem came from.
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Sep 3, 2020 03:08
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Why do diesel engines sound so clattery? Even new diesel trucks sound like pieces of the engine are loose and rattling.
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Sep 3, 2020 18:32
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taqueso posted:Why do diesel engines sound so clattery? Even new diesel trucks sound like pieces of the engine are loose and rattling. In short? pressure front from combustion. In a compression ignition engine when the fuel is injected it'll spontaneously ignite causing a sudden spike in pressure. You're hearing that spike in pressure. The pressure spike is so sudden and strong that it will flex cylinder walls. It'll even cause cavitation in the cooling jackets. The same effect you see in impellers/propellers. Compression ignition works differently from your traditional spark ignition engine. It'll use compression ratios around 17-20:1 wheras your typical spark ignition engine runs 7-12:1. This significantly higher compression ratio superheats the air charge to ~600C which is higher than diesel's autoignition temperature of 210C Modern diesels do multi sequence injections that cuts down on the clatter. The injector fires many small pulses of fuel to 1. waste less fuel. 2. increase combustion efficiency and 3. less clatter. E: VVV haha I'M SETTING THE RACK, I CAN'T HEAR YOU SPEAK LOUDER OR USE SMOKE SIGNALS cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Sep 3, 2020 |
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Sep 3, 2020 19:11
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e:^^^ That. If you think modern diesels shake and rattle, try an old Detroit Diesel. taqueso posted:Why do diesel engines sound so clattery? Even new diesel trucks sound like pieces of the engine are loose and rattling. You know what a gasoline engine feels like under detonation? A diesel engine does that as a matter of course. Super-high compression ratio compared to almost any gas motor, lots of stress put on the whole system. madeintaipei fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Sep 3, 2020 |
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Sep 3, 2020 19:20
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And because of all that diesel engines will always have to be built stronger to take that abuse which lends itself well to reliability and longevity in a general sense.
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Sep 3, 2020 19:23
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KakerMix posted:And because of all that diesel engines will always have to be built stronger to take that abuse which lends itself well to reliability and longevity in a general sense. which is why a diesel longblock weighs more than the a gas longblock of similar displacement. Not only is there increased engineering margin within the block and rotating assemblies, the internal tolerances are also significantly tighter.
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Sep 3, 2020 19:30
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KakerMix posted:And because of all that diesel engines will always have to be built stronger to take that abuse which lends itself well to reliability and longevity in a general sense. To put that into perspective, there is a reason American diesel trucks tend to be in the 3/4 ton and above weight-class. Ford 6.8 NA gas V-10: 625lbs., 7.3 turbo-diesel V-8: 920 lbs., 6.0 turbo-diesel V-8: 966lbs. All available in the same truck in the same two years, all for very little more hp and very much more torque.
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Sep 3, 2020 19:33
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KakerMix posted:And because of all that diesel engines will always have to be built stronger to take that abuse which lends itself well to reliability and longevity in a general sense. Wasn't it a thing for a while to convert those old 350 diesels to gas because they had some sturdier parts in 'em, apparently not good enough for diesel use but better than the regular gas models?
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Sep 3, 2020 19:40
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The high pressure pumps needed for direct injection are also not known for their low dB ratings.
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Sep 3, 2020 20:02
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Counterpoint, small diesels can be perfectly reasonable sound-wise. My Canyon makes only the barest whiff of big diesel sounds and doesn't even have an actual muffler, since the turbo and all of the emissions bits reduce sound enough on their own. I actually wish it was a tiny bit louder
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Sep 3, 2020 22:33
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wolrah posted:Wasn't it a thing for a while to convert those old 350 diesels to gas because they had some sturdier parts in 'em, apparently not good enough for diesel use but better than the regular gas models?
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Sep 4, 2020 22:14
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C-Bangin' it 
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What is the point of an overdrive off switch?
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Sep 6, 2020 15:59
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