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Perforated if it’s on the tank
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Aug 25, 2020 22:14
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| # ? May 16, 2024 11:27 |
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https://www.hexis-graphics.com/us/ hexis vinyl was by far the best of all the brands I used. Easy to work with, great quality, and always went down nicely. Even other top brands were far behind it. Bought it all from these guys, and I'd do it again. https://www.metrorestyling.com/ 
Coydog fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Aug 25, 2020 |
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Aug 25, 2020 23:43
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Coydog posted:https://www.hexis-graphics.com/us/ Yeah, I was hoping you’d chime in. Thanks. I just need enough to do the rear fender because fuuuuuck paying $125 for a new one.
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Aug 26, 2020 01:10
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Coydog posted:https://www.hexis-graphics.com/us/ nice drz 
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Aug 26, 2020 02:23
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Perforated if it’s on the tank Why is this?
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Aug 26, 2020 09:12
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Horse Clocks posted:Why is this? gas can vent through the plastics on older bikes. I have stickers on my tank and they're not perforated and there's zero bubbling so ymmv
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Aug 26, 2020 12:42
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right arm posted:gas can vent through the plastics on older bikes. I have stickers on my tank and they're not perforated and there's zero bubbling so ymmv It will probably happen regardless of how old the bike is if you're getting an oversized tank (which tend to be for offroad use only).
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Aug 26, 2020 22:46
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I still haven't actually ridden my SRAD gixxer due to being lazy about getting the front brakes finished and the wheels back on. I was going to just do that so I could take the bike out for a test ride, but now I'm thinking I should at least swap out the chain and sprockets while everything is apart. Seeing as how this is just a fun bike for my buddies and I to screw around on, is there any reason to not go down 1 tooth in the front and up 2 in the rear just to make it more fun around town? Its top speed is ridiculously high stock so I don't feel like I'm giving up much. But soon I hope to be riding on my Suzuki, vroom vroom vroom
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Sep 1, 2020 23:13
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IMO that will be a much bigger change than you're anticipating, +2 on the rear by itself would already be a noticable increase in zippiness, sticking a -1 on top of that I think would get you a very reactive bike with an almost useless first gear. Otoh front sprockets are cheap and it'd be a wheelie machine.
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Sep 1, 2020 23:28
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It’s gonna want to stand up everywhere but if you’re down for that then go nuts.
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Sep 2, 2020 02:36
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Aren't most sportbikes like 15k on the tach and no power down low? Like you have to hit 7k or higher to get any amount of power out of them when putting around town or you're just lugging it?  getcha a pizza sprocket on the back and go nuts.
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Sep 2, 2020 03:00
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Hmmm maybe that's excessive then, I went down one tooth on the Daytona and it was noticeable but not that much. Since front sprockets are cheaper I wonder if it makes more sense to go up two on the rear and leave the front stock, in case I want to change it out later, or if there are any benefits to doing 1 down in the front and 1 up in the rear versus stock front and 2 up in the rear? It's not going to be a stunter bike so it doesn't need to be a ridiculous wheelie machine, on the other hand it doesn't seem like the worst thing if the front liked to raise up. I could check with the gixxer forums but believe it or not the 21 year old sportbike subforum isn't the best in terms of information and/or people not being idiots.
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Sep 2, 2020 04:07
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could play around on https://www.gearingcommander.com/ and see if there's a speed you like with x and y gearing changes i guess doesn't really help with the feel of things though
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Sep 2, 2020 04:23
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MomJeans420 posted:Hmmm maybe that's excessive then, I went down one tooth on the Daytona and it was noticeable but not that much. Since front sprockets are cheaper I wonder if it makes more sense to go up two on the rear and leave the front stock, in case I want to change it out later, or if there are any benefits to doing 1 down in the front and 1 up in the rear versus stock front and 2 up in the rear? The size of the rear sprocket has an effect on the anti squat geometry so there's that to consider. Front sprockets are harder to change, though.
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Sep 2, 2020 05:10
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So I'm going to change my bike's oil before I fire it up, as previously advised. The manual says the procedure for bringing it out of hibernation involves removing the sparkplugs and cranking it until the oil pressure light goes out, a few times. Obviously, not doing this will cause more wear, and I know last time I started it, it was a bit noisy for a few seconds. My question is, how much wear is this going to cause and is it a huge deal if I skip this step? I don't want to damage anything but to remove sparkplugs etc. is getting more involved than I'm currently equipped for. I don't want to gently caress over the person I sell the bike to, though.
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Sep 2, 2020 05:35
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It is not a significant amount of wear, do not worry about it.
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Sep 2, 2020 06:33
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Here4DaGangBang posted:So I'm going to change my bike's oil before I fire it up, as previously advised. The manual says the procedure for bringing it out of hibernation involves removing the sparkplugs and cranking it until the oil pressure light goes out, a few times. Agree with Elviscat, it's fine. Besides, taking the spark plugs out without good equipment or in a good place is always a risk for stripping threads, dropping some dirt in the cylinder etc.
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Sep 2, 2020 07:14
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Follow up question: what about the middle ground of leaving the spark plugs in but pulling the fuse for the fuel system or something like that before cranking it? I imagine they say pull the plugs so the engine is experiencing the least resistance and therefore wear possible, but I guess plugs in but engine not actually firing is the next best thing? This is of course assuming that the bike will crank with the fuelling not working.
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Sep 2, 2020 07:55
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Unless the bike has been sitting for a decade or more, it's not worth worrying about. You're not going to score your cylinders. If you are extra anxious, pull the plug wires and crank the starter for a couple of seconds. Totally crazy super paranoid? Put the bike on stands, click the transmission into 5th/6th, and rotate the back wheel by hand for a few turns, secure in the knowledge that you've just wasted your time
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Sep 2, 2020 09:24
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Jazzzzz posted:Unless the bike has been sitting for a decade or more, it's not worth worrying about. You're not going to score your cylinders. If you are extra anxious, pull the plug wires and crank the starter for a couple of seconds. Totally crazy super paranoid? Put the bike on stands, click the transmission into 5th/6th, and rotate the back wheel by hand for a few turns, secure in the knowledge that you've just wasted your time I did this with my bike after I had done some top end work. Felt good, like hand turning the prop of a big radial. Also coated the cylinder walls with fresh oil before I put it together. There's something about lots of free time that's similar to being "Totally crazy super paranoid".
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Sep 2, 2020 09:26
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Anyone have any anecdotes to share regarding their helmet cam setups? Information that doesn't come from a *Sponsored* or *Promoted* or *Vague Top 10 List* is pretty hard to come by. I'm leaning towards a Hero 7 Black to record rides for safety/insurance stuff after we recently hit a deer in our car and our dash cam saved our butts.
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Sep 3, 2020 02:19
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I have a Sena 10c evo. I picked this because it is small and a comm system as well, so it helps minimizing the amount of stuff strapped to my helmet. The only real complaint I have is battery life. For commuting it’s fine but if you’re gonna be riding for more than 90 minutes you need to figure something out. It has to mount on the left of your helmet, so there is a possibility it wouldn’t capture something to the right that a chin-mounted GoPro would. If you just want a dashcam, then I think it’s fine. That’s why I have it. I can attempt to answer any questions you may have!
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Sep 3, 2020 02:45
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eggyolk posted:Anyone have any anecdotes to share regarding their helmet cam setups? Information that doesn't come from a *Sponsored* or *Promoted* or *Vague Top 10 List* is pretty hard to come by. I've used a hero 5 black for a while now, attached to the chin area with Sugru. It's good, but expensive for what is essentially just a dash cam. Whatever you decide to get, do a dry run with tape/blutack or whatever to make sure the angle looks good while you're sitting on your bike in riding position. Mine points a little low which is annoying but not something I've ever bothered to fix since it's still fine for insurance purposes.
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Sep 3, 2020 02:54
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I wanted a GoPro but between the high price and the low battery life I cheaped out and got a Ghost Drift XL on sale for like $120. I use it purely as a dashcam, the video quality isn't anything special and the audio quality from the built-in mic is TERRIBLE (totally useless if you're moving more than 10 miles an hour). The battery life is fantastic, idk if it quite reaches the advertised 9 hours but it must be pretty close, and it's survived the one trip in the rain I've gone through just fine. I have it mounted to the right side of my helmet and despite its size I don't notice any aero drag from it. For insurance purposes it's pretty much perfect, turn it on and forget about it. I have mine set to do five-minute clips and it will overwrite old stuff when the card gets full. I've yet to take a ride long enough to have to worry about the battery life but you can charge it while it's recording if you run a USB cable up your jacket.
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Sep 3, 2020 03:05
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I have a GoPro Hero 5 Session with a 3D printed chin mount for RF-1200s from Hell Mounts (guy had a bad accident and seems to no longer be producing them). It came with prefit 3M tape that can handle very impressive forces (turning your helmet to the side at > 100mph). My GoPro complaint is that while the video is good, I leave it in the wide angle view and it's harder to see details than you'd expect. It will handle my typical 90 miles of canyons though without having to be recharged or swapping SD cards (around 1.5 hrs of riding). I bought some huge variety pack of attachments and tried all sorts of different versions (protip: chest does not work well) until I settled on this. You can see my actual attachment piece is a bit of a Rube-Goldberg device, but that worked best for my riding position so you're not just recording the ground in front of you (I'm tall and on a hunched over sportbike).   
MomJeans420 fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Sep 3, 2020 |
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Sep 3, 2020 04:00
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If I were to theoretically go on a 5000 mile dirtbike trip from SC to WA, should I: A) ship my FE250 and use that. B) buy a DRZ400 in SC and use that C) other ?
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Sep 3, 2020 17:49
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Elviscat posted:If I were to theoretically go on a 5000 mile dirtbike trip from SC to WA, should I: how much time do you have for this trip? are you planning on doing the TAT? either way, spending money on shipping a generic dirt bike sounds like a waste of money imho and putting that many miles on a bike measured in hours for service intervals would be a good way to kill it if you bought a drz400 that hasn't been hosed around too terribly you could always resell it in WA when you arrive and probably break close to even
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Sep 3, 2020 18:19
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right arm posted:how much time do you have for this trip? are you planning on doing the TAT? Seconded. Unless you have a hard on for replacing your top end somewhere in the middle of Nebraska
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Sep 3, 2020 19:10
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*crashes through the door, tripping on an end table* DID ANYONE SAY DR650 YET?! I THINK IT WOULD BE GOOD FOR THE LONG TRIP.
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Sep 3, 2020 19:20
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right arm posted:how much time do you have for this trip? are you planning on doing the TAT? Yeah, TAT, figuring a month to do it, it seems like shipping dirtbikes is more expensive than the depreciation hit I'd take buying a used bike down there and selling up here. I'm not too worried about the FE from a reliability perspective, it can do 40MPH on dirt roads all day without breaking a sweat. It'll just be more of an adventure when it shits a cam bearing with nothing but corn in every direction. Coydog posted:*crashes through the door, tripping on an end table* DID ANYONE SAY DR650 YET?! I THINK IT WOULD BE GOOD FOR THE LONG TRIP. The DRZ just seems lighter and more dirt-bikey to me, what are the advantages to a DR? This trip would be next summer, I have to transfer commands again, if I stay in the PNW I'm looking at doing the TAT, if I get transferred to the East Coast again I'll be road tripping cross-country on the FZ again.
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Sep 3, 2020 22:39
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Elviscat posted:Yeah, TAT, figuring a month to do it, it seems like shipping dirtbikes is more expensive than the depreciation hit I'd take buying a used bike down there and selling up here. rad. you'll have a very good time. I've done all of TN and a significant bit of OR and WY. plan on more pavement than you think. if you need a yard or info on where to camp while you're in TN PM me and I'll shoot you some locations! like I said though, I would really really recommend riding a bike with intervals measured in hours. a drz400 would be a good bike that you could easily sell when you get back out west. it's not so much the reliability as it is the fact that the trip will kill your bike if you're not sticking to the intervals and you will 100% need some sort of rebuild either along the way or afterwards. I would not waste the life of a Good Dirt Bike on the TAT. anyways a dr650 would do better on the pavement obviously (there is far more pavement than you'd expect if you've done BDRs before and are trying to compare the TAT to that), but if it were me I'd look at something along a drz400 for sure just cause it'll make the dirt more fun.
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Sep 3, 2020 22:53
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I'm putting my project bike back together (83 Suzuki GR650) and I can't get the drat housing for the tach drive to go back into the head. It's a tight fit so I lubed it up but I think it gets to the point where the o-ring needs to be squished in and just won't budge. I think that stupid o-ring is the only seal that wasn't included in the gasket set, too. Am I an idiot and I just need to replace it? I can't think of anything else that would be preventing its insertion. Edit: nevermind! I froze it then applied just the right leverage. Bi-la kaifa fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Sep 4, 2020 |
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Sep 3, 2020 23:27
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Coydog posted:*crashes through the door, tripping on an end table* DID ANYONE SAY DR650 YET?! I THINK IT WOULD BE GOOD FOR THE LONG TRIP.  👆🏼🖕🏼 Let’s escalate him to a GS. Buy the DR-Z, it’s the right answer to most every question.
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Sep 4, 2020 00:37
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Jazzzzz posted:Seconded. Unless you have a hard on for replacing your top end somewhere in the middle of Nebraska Please do not kinkshame
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Sep 4, 2020 00:58
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Are Moto Guzzi’s good motorcycles? Or are they overhyped bikes for hipsters?
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Sep 4, 2020 01:08
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ChocNitty posted:Are Moto Guzzi’s good motorcycles? Lmao. That is all.
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Sep 4, 2020 01:19
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Of you even have to ask that line of questioning, you already know the answer
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Sep 4, 2020 01:21
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what an adorable post
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Sep 4, 2020 01:22
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ChocNitty posted:Are Moto Guzzi’s good motorcycles? Or are they overhyped bikes for hipsters? lol. Elviscat posted:If I were to theoretically go on a 5000 mile dirtbike trip from SC to WA, should I: lol. Do either of you want to ride the bike or do you want to spend time in a rental? cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Sep 4, 2020 |
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Sep 4, 2020 01:23
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| # ? May 16, 2024 11:27 |
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cursedshitbox posted:lol.  the FE250 motor can do 5000 miles of light-duty riding without exploding JFC.It is not the ideal bike for that trip by any means though, no.
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Sep 4, 2020 02:31
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