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Is there a product available in the uk to strip paint that is definitely safe to use on resin? Searching online is a nightmare because googling gets you recommendations from people that actually wreck it. I used biostrip 20 before but it doesn’t play nicely either.
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Sep 5, 2020 20:11
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Mr Teatime posted:Is there a product available in the uk to strip paint that is definitely safe to use on resin? Searching online is a nightmare because googling gets you recommendations from people that actually wreck it. I used biostrip 20 before but it doesn’t play nicely either. I just stripped some resin minis using simple green today. Works okay, but you gotta be careful when scrubbing
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Sep 5, 2020 20:22
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Nebalebadingdong posted:I just stripped some resin minis using simple green today. Works okay, but you gotta be careful when scrubbing Yeah this is what I use
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Sep 5, 2020 20:28
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I had seen that recommendation before but the last time I checked it wasn’t available in the uk. I checked again and now it seems like there may be a distributor, anyone know if it’s the same stuff? https://www.simplegreen.co.uk/index.php/simple-green-uk-about-us
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Sep 5, 2020 20:54
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I just finished up the Blade Guard Veterans!
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Sep 5, 2020 21:27
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Mr Teatime posted:I had seen that recommendation before but the last time I checked it wasn’t available in the uk. I checked again and now it seems like there may be a distributor, anyone know if it’s the same stuff? it's the right stuff
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Sep 5, 2020 21:45
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Mr Teatime posted:Is there a product available in the uk to strip paint that is definitely safe to use on resin? Searching online is a nightmare because googling gets you recommendations from people that actually wreck it. I used biostrip 20 before but it doesn’t play nicely either. E: anecdotally not safe on GW/Forgeworld resin. As far as I know, isopropyl alcohol is safe for resin, but I would test it on a sprue part or something first. It certainly works on plastic and metal, the paint sloughs right off with a bit of scrubbing with a toothbrush, after an overnight soak. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Sep 5, 2020 |
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Sep 5, 2020 22:42
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Doesn't isopropyl have a problem with leeching the hardening agents out of the resin, leaving it permanently rubbery/spongy?
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Sep 5, 2020 22:48
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Not sure, but anecdotally GW/Forgeworld resin is problematic. Always test first.
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Sep 5, 2020 22:58
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Finally finished my Pteraxii Sterylizors. These dudes are really hard to get good photos of as a group.   
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Sep 5, 2020 23:04
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Stephenls posted:Doesn't isopropyl have a problem with leeching the hardening agents out of the resin, leaving it permanently rubbery/spongy? I know isopropyl is what almost every resin printer printer uses to soak prints in for cleaning.
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Sep 6, 2020 00:03
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   Painted up the ork from the goblin box set (I think he's a runt herder?) He was super fun to paint, with lots of little details that stood out, like the scars on his belly or his missing finger.
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Sep 6, 2020 00:22
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KozmoNaut posted:Not sure, but anecdotally GW/Forgeworld resin is problematic. Always test first. While this doesn't pertain to the original question, a good rule of thumb here is to not buy GW resin at all if you can avoid it.
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Sep 6, 2020 00:41
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Thanks for the responses guys, I have a heck of a load of iso from my 3D printing so I guess I’ll chuck some gates in it overnight and see.
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Sep 6, 2020 01:37
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 Just got back into painting after like 10 years, and I was pretty proud of this aspiring sorcerer I painted.
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Sep 6, 2020 01:58
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a bad picture of some cute miniatures 
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Sep 6, 2020 05:32
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R0ckfish posted:I just finished up the Blade Guard Veterans!
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Sep 6, 2020 07:27
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R0ckfish posted:I just finished up the Blade Guard Veterans! Owns.
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Sep 6, 2020 07:31
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Mr Teatime posted:Thanks for the responses guys, I have a heck of a load of iso from my 3D printing so I guess I’ll chuck some gates in it overnight and see. Maybe dont jump straight to overnight, you probably wont need to immerse the bits you are stripping for longer than half an hour (probably 15 minutes tbh), so maybe put the test pieces in for an hour or so to get a better idea of what effect that will have on the resin.
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Sep 6, 2020 09:51
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Yeah, unless you're trying to shift a really gnarly layer of primer, less than 30 minutes usually does the trick.
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Sep 6, 2020 10:19
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Mae posted:
Noice.
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Sep 6, 2020 12:12
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So the iso has softened the resin overnight, I guess reducing the time might help but it certainly ain’t something you can leave it in for days.
Mr Teatime fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Sep 6, 2020 |
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Sep 6, 2020 14:25
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Mr Teatime posted:So the iso has softened the resin overnight, I guess reducing the time might help but it certainly ain’t something you can leave it in for days. What kind of resin are you talking about? UV cured resin or something else?
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Sep 6, 2020 16:07
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I'm starting to use Retarder more and more as a thinner, and it seems to work quite well. So it got me wondering, what are the differences between using water, retarder, medium or flow improver to thin down paint? Also I'm using a wet palette but that seems to mostly keep the paint from drying, it doesn't seem to really thin the paint at all.
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Sep 6, 2020 16:51
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All I know is that Vallejo airbrush flow improver is goddamn magic. There must be some ground-up fairies in there or something. Same as their Metal Colors.
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Sep 6, 2020 16:53
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goodness posted:What kind of resin are you talking about? UV cured resin or something else? Forgeworld stuff, I’ve never had any issues with washing uv resin in it after a print though to be fair I don’t leave them in longer than a wash.
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Sep 6, 2020 17:12
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Furism posted:I'm starting to use Retarder more and more as a thinner, and it seems to work quite well. So it got me wondering, what are the differences between using water, retarder, medium or flow improver to thin down paint? Also I'm using a wet palette but that seems to mostly keep the paint from drying, it doesn't seem to really thin the paint at all. Acrylic paints are basically just acrylic binder and pigment. Acrylic binder is just plastic that holds pigment and is water soluble until it dries when it is water resistant. Water soluble means that when you add water it literally becomes thinner (acrylic particles being spread out in the volume of water you mixed in). If you add too much water you separate the acrylic too far apart and it causes the paint to break and not stick together which means you don't get good coverage. Medium is literally just acrylic binder without any pigment which means if you add it to your paint it thins out the colour (less pigment per acrylic) without thinning the consistency of your paint. You can basically thin as hard as you want with medium without worrying about your paint breaking. Retarder extends the time it takes for your paint to dry which allows you to do wet blending which is basically just mixing paints on the surface of your mini. Flow Improver is a mixture of (gloss?) medium, thinner and retarder so it basically does all of the above at once which may or may not be what you want. The thinning makes it easier to shoot out of your airbrush and the retarder prevents it from drying too early and building up dried paint on your needle. If you pick up paint and then brush it against an empty spot of your wet palette it will pick up water from the palette and thin your paint. If you're just drawing paint and then going straight to your mini then no, it won't be thinned at all.
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Sep 6, 2020 17:47
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KozmoNaut posted:Two Ikea Tertial desk lamps with 1150 lumen daylight (5500-6500K) LED bulbs. I painted the outlines of my Thousand Sons guys in silver instead of gold. But I think my boys are too shiny. There's no definition, which really stands out on against the armor where I did a zenithal with metal sprays and went over with contrast paint. Does anyone have advice on making shiny silver look more real? I was thinking about applying a slight wash of blue, and then edge highlighting that again in silver, then doing some dot highlights in white at the sharp points. Sort of as if the silver was reflecting the blue armor like a mirror. Anyone have advice or examples of things they've done?
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Sep 6, 2020 18:22
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flow improver has something in it to make it a surfactant ie it will reduce the surface tension of the paint and make it flow better
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Sep 6, 2020 20:54
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 Speedpainted 20 Marauders in 5 hours. Now to do 20 more.
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Sep 6, 2020 21:47
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Edit: Tried to post pics but Imgur isn't working. I'll try later.
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Sep 6, 2020 23:19
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Eej posted:Acrylic paints are basically just acrylic binder and pigment. Acrylic binder is just plastic that holds pigment and is water soluble until it dries when it is water resistant. Water soluble means that when you add water it literally becomes thinner (acrylic particles being spread out in the volume of water you mixed in). If you add too much water you separate the acrylic too far apart and it causes the paint to break and not stick together which means you don't get good coverage. This is really handy, thank you
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Sep 7, 2020 00:44
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Hello, Cross-post from 40k I have some extra time on my hands and lately have been thinking I had a need for a creative outlet, so I decided to get back into minis. 8 years ago I got into Warmahordes, and used to post here with my Khador and Legion models, but got out painting and playing 5 years ago. I almost got back into minis with 40k 8th in 2018 and picked up the first strike box, but talked myself out of getting into it before painting anything. Seeing 9th had just come out I decided to pull out the marines I had, prime one up, and try painting again. So here is my first Space Marine and first model I've painted in 5 years.     (I started basing and realized I forgot to order my grass) I'm using Drew Palies' Emperor's Havok color scheme with some small tweaks. I'm satisfied with how it came out. Going forward I'd like to get the edge highlights cleaner. I think I might take them down a level, he uses Admin Grey for the edge on Mech Standard Grey base, and I'm thinking of going down to Dawnstone for edge instead. Also I'd like the crest to be more black so I think basing it in Eshin Grey with Nulin wash and then a darker highlight. I primed the 2 other Intercessors to paint this week. The Sgt Ill keep more detailed, but I want to try a quicker paint on the 3rd one. Also I had never tried a wet palette when I used to paint but half way through this one I decided to try a homemade one and like the way it worked out so I picked one up on Amazon.
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Sep 7, 2020 00:48
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While I’m on the question train, does anyone have any experience with cockpit canopy parts from Forgeworld? I have one sitting in front of me and I was expecting a plastic part but it looks like it’s been moulded from a clear resin, how the heck do I prep this thing, the windows are a bit rough and I can’t see how I could possibly sand them because they sit pretty deep into the frame.
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Sep 7, 2020 01:54
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"You know, I heard the troops laughing. General Votsedge, better trained in table manners than in military strategy! Well, who is laughing now? My table manners and ability to keep a stiff upper lip was all that stopped me from joining the rest of my women in the exciting and fast moving world of ancient fashion. My hosts seemed quite amazed at my ability to continue to drink my tea despite what were honestly quite childish attempts to shock me by wearing the mutilated skins of my command squad, prompting even my opposing number to come over in person to introduce herself. She spoke quite poor Gothic and seemed doubly impressed when I corrected her pronunciation - she even laughed and thanked me, saying that it would have been deeply humiliating to have introduced herself in the future with such an accent! "She introduced herself as Overlord Lizadal - though I advised her that the title was better suited for some sort of minor manufactorium despot than a figure of her magnificence. I subsequently suggested that she introduce herself as something perhaps a bit more refined, such as 'Tzarina', which she seemed to take a liking to. I am particularly fortunate that she happened to be wearing the quartermaster at the time, which prompted me to suggest the location of my regiment's supply dump so that I would have a reasonable supply of food while under her hospitality. Boldness seemed to be the right approach, for she directed her minions to do as I suggested. "So now, in no danger of starvation, I will continue to perform my duty to the God-Emperor and continue to accumulate intelligence about the nature of this rather spectacular new threat that teleported into my regiment's fortified compound. Whomsoever reads this, understand that I remain a loyal servant of the Golden Throne despite my sudden tenure as a guest of foreign nobility. I will continue to write my first hand observations as to Tzarina Lizadal's military campaigns and what will no doubt be the crushing Imperial counterblow, God-Emperor willing."        
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Sep 7, 2020 02:08
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Do I need a better or different kind of mask for airbrushing oil or enamel as opposed to regular acrylic? What should I buy?
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Sep 7, 2020 02:30
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Mr Teatime posted:While I’m on the question train, does anyone have any experience with cockpit canopy parts from Forgeworld? I have one sitting in front of me and I was expecting a plastic part but it looks like it’s been moulded from a clear resin, how the heck do I prep this thing, the windows are a bit rough and I can’t see how I could possibly sand them because they sit pretty deep into the frame. I'm on my phone so don't have a link, but Google for what military modelers do for airplane canopies. Generally involves carefully soaking in future floor finish, which is basically gloss varnish. It'll fill in the roughness and give you a clear canopy. May take a couple applications.
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Sep 7, 2020 03:14
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Do I need a better or different kind of mask for airbrushing oil or enamel as opposed to regular acrylic? What should I buy? Yes, you need a p100 respirator. And you shouldn't use your vent booth - unless it has a brushless fan it can generate (extremely small) sparks, which can ignite the flammable vapors.
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Sep 7, 2020 03:14
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Booley posted:Yes, you need a p100 respirator. And you shouldn't use your vent booth - unless it has a brushless fan it can generate (extremely small) sparks, which can ignite the flammable vapors. i like that the more hardcore you get about painting tiny people, the more deadly it becomes
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Sep 7, 2020 03:51
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Fingat posted:Hello, Cross-post from 40k The edge highlighting on this guy looks great.
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Sep 7, 2020 05:01
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