|
Got myself a Prusa Mini seems like a decent enough first print Elos fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Aug 30, 2020 |
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 19:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 00:50 |
|
|
Nice! I ordered myself one and ahead of getting it tried to cowboy up an enclosure. Then discovered the "footprint" of the printer isn't the same as the space it needs to actually work, so my borderline dimensioned cabinet actually won't fit 
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 19:28
|
|
|
Yeah I wasn't totally sure how much space I should have so I just went and got myself a tall version of this: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-shelving-unit-black-s69272649/ Pretty sturdy for an IKEA product and plenty of space
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 19:32
|
|
|
The Eyes Have It posted:Then discovered the "footprint" of the printer isn't the same as the space it needs to actually work, so my borderline dimensioned cabinet actually won't fit I used the footprint dimensions as part of my rationale for ordering it, hoping it would fit on top of my small tool cabinet: https://www.harborfreight.com/145-in-black-end-cabinet-64448.html The flat usable space on top is about 55x36cm with a 15mm raised lip surrounding it, Prsua states that the mini's footprint is 38x33cm. I know that the bed has to slide along the Y axis beyond that which should be fine for me as I have another 15cm between the cabinet rear and the wall. Am I overlooking anything else? My big worry is that their footprint is not counting this stuff:  It's hard to judge the actual size from photos and youtube videos, I guess if it doesn't fit directly on it I can put a sheet of something really solid and flat over the cabinet, sitting on the raised lip, and then set the printer on top of that. Elos posted:Got myself a Prusa Mini Gotta wait until at least the end of September to print some cubes  . How long ago did you order?
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 20:48
|
|
|
d0s posted:
May 22. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 21:03
|
|
|
I recenrly remembered I had picked up this cheap little lens out of a film scanner but wasn't ever able to figure out how to mount it (it has no mounting threads). But this is thr future, so one 14.5mm ID to m42x1 outer thread later:  Now I can take closeup pictures of high quality SA-themed mushrooms! 
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2020 21:21
|
|
|
The Prusa Mini will fit on top of your standard nightstand surface just fine, if you want to go the cheap Goodwill route (plus you'll have some sturdy drawers to store filament/etc. in). Some folks have used something like this: https://www.amazon.com/MacRoog-Greenhouse-Portable-Gardening-Planting/dp/B07Z5PJ9TB Or gone whole-hog and bought a small plant growing tent to put the printer in.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2020 11:07
|
|
|
What's the typical initial cost for someone who wants to try some 3D printing, like the overall cost for printer, materials, and anything else that is required beyond the printer and materials? I doubt I'd be getting into it anytime soon but I'm interested in printing some stuff for tabletop gaming and I'm not entirely sure what I would even need to be looking for in a decent 3D printer. Also, dumb question but are 3D printers noisy or something that requires dedicated ventilation due to fumes or bad odors?
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2020 21:51
|
|
|
Got my Ender 6SE a couple days ago and have been printing near non-stop with out of the box filament, and settings, and it's been drat flawless so far (and nothing has caught fire). It's also so quiet, I have to keep checking to see if it's still working sitting 10 feet away from it. My Ender 5 was having bed adhesion issues, but I'm going to move it into a back room without AC and put it in an enclosure, so hopefully that will be my factory workhorse. FirstAidKite posted:What's the typical initial cost for someone who wants to try some 3D printing, like the overall cost for printer, materials, and anything else that is required beyond the printer and materials? You will need at bare minimum 1) a printer and 2) some filament. I'm pretty sure most printers come with some filament, so you can probably just get away with #1. I wouldn't recommend going all out on a high end printer if you are unsure. $300-$400 seems like a decent price point for budgeting, but you can probably get cheaper. When you say table top gaming, do you mean minis or terrain or both? On a filament printer, minis will look anywhere from not bad to crappy, depending on the printer and your ability to tune the slicer in. Terrain takes a surprising amount of print surface depending on what you print. If you want good quality, it also takes a while depending on how many parts you print at once. Some 3d printers are noisy - you probably don't want to put it next to your bed. But they are generally quieter than AC units. Filament printers are very non-toxic. Resin printers are highly toxic and (from what I hear) smelly. They do, however print minis way better than filament printers. I don't have direct experience with those though, so I'll just stop there. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Sep 2, 2020 |
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2020 23:24
|
|
|
FirstAidKite posted:What's the typical initial cost for someone who wants to try some 3D printing, like the overall cost for printer, materials, and anything else that is required beyond the printer and materials? 250 to 400 bucks for an Ender or Prusa Mini. Both come with pretty much all the stuff you need, including some filament. Filament is about 20-25 bucks a kilo for good quality stuff. I will always recommend Prusas because they are very good quality and tend to just work, but many people in this thread like the Enders. The Ender makes enough high-pitched motor whine that you wouldn't want it in the same room if you were watching a movie or trying to sleep. Or even in the next room with your bedroom door open. The Prusas are not-quite-silent; you can hear them, but it's a soft whooshing more comparable to a computer fan or an air purifier or something. Much less objectionable. If you're printing PLA there is essentially no odor, and what there is smells like maple syrup. Other plastics can be more irritating, notably ABS which smells like burning rubber. You probably don't need an air filter for PLA, but 3D printers do produce plastic nanoparticles that get into the air, and nobody really knows for sure whether those are safe or not. I would just keep it in not-your-bedroom if you're doing PLA or PET, and would recommend some sort of enclosure with a carbon filter if you're doing ABS. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Sep 2, 2020 |
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2020 23:34
|
|
|
I ordered a spool of prusament PETG because its properties seem well in line with what I'm going to be printing, also got the textured bed. Anything I need to know about PETG printing? Should I get an enclosure or is that only for more exotic materials? I know it will have more stringing (don't care) and needs to be printed at higher temps (prusament PETG profile in slicer will hopefully take care of that), any gotchas I'm missing?
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2020 00:14
|
|
|
I am running into PETG problems as well. After goofing around with a 1mm nozzle, I switched back to the normal sized one and not really had a successful print yet. I'm running a battery of tests to find the right configuration. My biggest issue is build plate adhesion, which I can (and have) get around by using rafts on everything, but I don't think I have to. That being said, two things I can gather about PETG: You don't need an enclosure. Of course there are situations where it can help, it's not like ABS. Some people will have problems where it will stick to a glass bed too well and damage the glass on removal. Thus painters tape is often used. edit: Ok, the second test print is working perfectly so i guess i spent all day learning I need to raise the plate temp by 5 degrees. neat Serenade fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Sep 3, 2020 |
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2020 00:42
|
|
|
One thing about PETG to remember is that it doesn't need as much "squish" as PLA does, so you're actually better off with a slightly higher Z offset when printing with it. You can bump this up either manually (which is a pain since you need to redo it when you switch to a different filament type), or else check your slicer to see if there's a "Z offset" parameter and bump it up in .02mm increments until it's just right. I know Cura has that feature, not sure about PrusaSlicer though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2020 01:54
|
|
|
Serenade posted:edit: Ok, the second test print is working perfectly so i guess i spent all day learning I need to raise the plate temp by 5 degrees. neat Welcome to 3D printing, where the thing that works is always the dumbest. One thing that I've found really helps PETG is linear advance. It's worth spending the afternoon figuring out. That and direct drive, but obviously not everyone wants to do that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2020 04:18
|
|
|
Sydney Bottocks posted:One thing about PETG to remember is that it doesn't need as much "squish" as PLA does, so you're actually better off with a slightly higher Z offset when printing with it. You can bump this up either manually (which is a pain since you need to redo it when you switch to a different filament type), or else check your slicer to see if there's a "Z offset" parameter and bump it up in .02mm increments until it's just right. I know Cura has that feature, not sure about PrusaSlicer though. This actually explains a few things. Last time I had build issues in this thread it's because I didn't level right. I had gone from PETG to PLA. How I leveled beds was fine for PETG but not PLA. Swapping back today, I ran into the problem again. Now I know to level PLA and PETG with different scrap papers. Dr. Fishopolis posted:Welcome to 3D printing, where the thing that works is always the dumbest. Not only adding that initial 5 degrees help, an additional 5 made it fail again and an additional 5 made it work again. I guess PETG only works on odd numbers
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2020 04:38
|
|
|
Ok, I need some help understanding just what the gently caress is happening here.  Look at the skirt, not the actual print in progress that I babystepped. I did not adjust the skirt at all. Note the BLTouch, which appears to be in normal working order. My bed visualization looks like this:  So what seems to be happening is the BLTouch thinks that the z-axis is like a half mm lower on the right side than it actually is. I can't understand how that would work though or what to adjust to fix it. Please help, my family is dying.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 01:39
|
|
|
Enola Gay-For-Pay posted:Ok, I need some help understanding just what the gently caress is happening here. Is the bed at the same temperature as when you did the bed leveling? Heated beds warp when hot so if you level the bed when it is cool it will often cause problems.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2020 09:07
|
|
|
Does anyone have experience with dual-nozzle Flash Forges? I'd like to use PVA filament for supports so I can just dissolve it away afterwards - is this as good as it sounds? I don't hear it mentioned much.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2020 17:32
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:When you say table top gaming, do you mean minis or terrain or both? Potentially terrain but if I had a 3D printer, a majority of its use would be for miniatures. I don't mind doing any cleanup work on them to make them look more presentable and to try and mitigate that sorta grainy look 3D printed stuff has, but ideally I'd want to be able to minis that are at least "not bad." What would you recommend for that?
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2020 18:32
|
|
|
FirstAidKite posted:Potentially terrain but if I had a 3D printer, a majority of its use would be for miniatures. I don't mind doing any cleanup work on them to make them look more presentable and to try and mitigate that sorta grainy look 3D printed stuff has, but ideally I'd want to be able to minis that are at least "not bad." What would you recommend for that? I have had horrid luck printing minis, but mostly because I never got my settings down right for supports and supports in Cura were really lovely for a while. They have since improved that, but I'm too busy printing terrain right now to try a miniature again. I will soon. I have an Ender 5 and an Ender 6SE. I would think an Ender 3 would be just fine since it's pretty similar in quality to the 5. I'm printing terrain on the 6SE with a .4 nozzle and .12 MM layer height and it's been really nice. The layers do show when you prime stuff, so you either have to sand it, or prime it with something that fills in a bit. I've ordered some gesso to see if that works. The 6 has been printing some nice accessories like cabinets and carts and stuff. I'm also working on printing out an entire Red Rocket (I'm printing mostly Fallout Wasteland Warfare stuff). On the Ender 5 I have switched to a .2mm nozzle and I'm printing at .08 layer height, and things are coming out very nice but they take a really long time to print. I will try to print a mini again soon, after I clear out my queue of stuff to ensure I have the settings down nicely. (As I said above I've been having print bed adhesion issues with that one). So you may want to look at the Ender 3 - it's priced reasonably and it's a decent starting printer. There may be better ones out there for minis, but mine have been absolutely stellar for terrain (and I don't have first hand knowledge with anything else). Also, your slicer is going to make a big difference. I have been using Cura because it supports Mac and it's fairly easy to pick up, and it's free. I have read that Simply3d is a little better at fine printing and supports, but I haven't tried it yet because it's not cheap. But that may be the difference I need. We will see. E: I just looked, and you can get an Ender 3 Pro on Amazon for $236 in the states because it's on sale. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Sep 7, 2020 |
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2020 19:19
|
|
|
A resin printer is more suited to printing miniatures. Before you buy anything though take a look and see if files for the minis you’d want to print are available. And how they cost.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2020 19:27
|
|
|
The minis in question are all files either specifically designed for supportless printing or were at least designed with 3D printing in mind, they're pretty much split between stl files I already own that were designed for printing and stl files available for purchase for printing. If resin's the only way to get anything decent then I'll probably just forget about it for the time being since I feel like there would be too many troubles related to it, space, concern for our cats, concern about what our landlord would do, concern about neighbors complaining about resin smells, etc. I mean, I wasn't going to get this stuff soon anyway, this was always a "hey maybe next year or the year after if the pandemic ends then I can look into and start saving up for a 3D printer" so maybe by then I'll be in a different and better place for setting up a resin printer with proper ventilation.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2020 19:46
|
|
|
Well, thanks, because you asked, I looked into resin printers and the Anycubic Photon is only $169 and the new version that comes out within the next month is pre-oreder for $209 so of course I pre-ordered the new one.  I guess I can let you know how it works.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2020 20:17
|
|
|
Gort posted:Does anyone have experience with dual-nozzle Flash Forges? I'd like to use PVA filament for supports so I can just dissolve it away afterwards - is this as good as it sounds? I don't hear it mentioned much. Only if you intend to use all of the spool of PVA as rapidly as possible. Because PVA dissolves with water, guess what happens with ambient moisture in the air. PVA is intended for hermetically sealed (or as near as you can get) build areas. Otherwise use HIPS and dissolve that with Limonene. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Sep 7, 2020 |
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2020 22:12
|
|
|
PVA is, effectively, elmer's glue. It's a goddamn nightmare to work with even with a drybox, seriously just use HIPS.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2020 22:46
|
|
|
Gort posted:Does anyone have experience with dual-nozzle Flash Forges? I'd like to use PVA filament for supports so I can just dissolve it away afterwards - is this as good as it sounds? I don't hear it mentioned much. Yes, and no. Like you've heard a few other times, use HIPS, or maybe BVOH. I had limonene significantly weaken my ABS, and I was also allergic to it, soooo... But, it does work to just snap off the part as well. Those machines are best if you run like a .3 and .6 nozzle, and puke waste ABS into the middle of the model, with the .3 giving you some nice definition around the edge 
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2020 23:10
|
|
|
FirstAidKite posted:The minis in question are all files either specifically designed for supportless printing or were at least designed with 3D printing in mind, they're pretty much split between stl files I already own that were designed for printing and stl files available for purchase for printing. If resin's the only way to get anything decent then I'll probably just forget about it for the time being since I feel like there would be too many troubles related to it, space, concern for our cats, concern about what our landlord would do, concern about neighbors complaining about resin smells, etc. I mean, I wasn't going to get this stuff soon anyway, this was always a "hey maybe next year or the year after if the pandemic ends then I can look into and start saving up for a 3D printer" so maybe by then I'll be in a different and better place for setting up a resin printer with proper ventilation. If you are able to send me an .stl, I can try printing it on my ender 3 and see how it turns out. I've had mixed results on minis, although it's been great for terrain.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 00:42
|
|
|
My DM uses an Elegoo Mars for minis and an Ender3/CR-10 for terrain and puzzles. I’ve tried printing minis on the Ender with a tiny nozzle and tiny layer heights and all the settings that should work and they either gently caress up every time or still don’t hold a candle to the level of resolution you can get with resin. The only minis I’d recommend for FDM are big creatures that don’t need supreme detail.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 01:42
|
|
|
I've been resin printing a lil over a year with my Mars, and I gotta tell ya, the resin doesn't smell (that) bad. The alcohol in the cleaning jars smells stronger than the resin does.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 02:09
|
|
|
Gort posted:Does anyone have experience with dual-nozzle Flash Forges? I'd like to use PVA filament for supports so I can just dissolve it away afterwards - is this as good as it sounds? I don't hear it mentioned much. I've done a fair bit with dual extruder machines, though I've never run PVA. My workhorse printer was a FF dual extrusion machine, that the left extruder was removed from. I ended up doing very little dual extrusion printing, and less carriage weight gives better speed and quality. I like the machine, and I've talked about it before. I'd read those posts before buying one, as there are some important caveats for a hobby user. You don't hear much about dual extrusion because it's finicky. The nozzles have to be very well aligned with each other to prevent one from hitting the print. They can also ooze. Independent duel extruder (IDEX) designs work much better, and can be adjusted much easier, but they're far more expensive. My last search shows FF makes one, but I didn't know that before. PVA is also a pretty expensive filament, and is a pain to print. Esun PVA filament, for example, is $40 for half a kg. I've seen demos of the process, and it seems pretty magical. As an aside, PVA filament is Polyvinyl alcohol. PVA glue is polyvinyl acetate.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 02:36
|
|
|
I saw a video the other day in my YouTube suggestions which was all about FDM miniature printing, with some slicer setting hacks like setting top layers to 9999 in Cura so that it treats all layers as top layers, seemed like the guy was able to get pretty good detail.. granted probably not SLA quality but possibly a decent compromise? I can’t remember the name of the channel, something like The 3D Printed Tabletop.. EDIT: here you go https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qDW7g3JOqLA Here4DaGangBang fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Sep 8, 2020 |
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 03:39
|
|
|
Aurium posted:
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 04:38
|
|
|
Here4DaGangBang posted:I saw a video the other day in my YouTube suggestions which was all about FDM miniature printing, with some slicer setting hacks like setting top layers to 9999 in Cura so that it treats all layers as top layers, seemed like the guy was able to get pretty good detail.. granted probably not SLA quality but possibly a decent compromise? Yeah I posted that guy a while ago. He does get good results but even he has moved onto resin for a lot of the smaller miniatures. It seemed like his settings were completely solid with extremely slow wall speed, like 12.5mm. I've done some so-so miniature prints with those settings but I suspect I could get better quality with a .2mm nozzle. With resin printers getting so cheap, though, it does seem like spending $300 for one of those and a couple of wash containers and a UV curing station for infinite high quality miniatures would be worth it for someone who really likes them. This seems like it might be useful to cut down on the supports on resin printing as well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgPxE5gUjlo
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 05:25
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:With resin printers getting so cheap, though, it does seem like spending $300 for one of those and a couple of wash containers and a UV curing station for infinite high quality miniatures would be worth it for someone who really likes them. It absolutely is. I got an Elegoo Mars a while back, and the only reason I'm not printing on it much lately is because I literally printed myself a giant backlog of miniatures to paint  That and I'm waiting on my pre-order of the Wham Bam flex build plate they just announced that's made for resin printers. There have been several good reviews of it so far, so I decided to hold off on any more prints with the Mars until it arrives and I get it set up.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 06:41
|
|
|
I’m also waiting on my Wham Bam resin flex plate  It’ll be great for things with large bases but I’m hoping it has enough flex to detach 1” mini bases without much trouble too. edit: speak of the devil, mine showed up about twenty minutes after I posted this. The instructions say to let the magnetic sticker adhere for 24-72 hours so I'll set it up and test it later this week. csammis fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Sep 8, 2020 |
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 13:50
|
|
|
That Wham Bam plate looks pretty amazing for small mechanical parts like gears or cams. Really excited to hear what folks think when they get in.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 15:00
|
|
|
csammis posted:I’m also waiting on my Wham Bam resin flex plate Eager to hear how it works for ya  That's my hope for it too, to be able to print some nice-looking miniature bases without either having to jackhammer them off the build plate, or having to angle them and play the "are you sure you added enough supports" game.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 19:51
|
|
|
Anycubic is having a 5 year anniversary sale as well as it looks like they are introducing new lines for both FDM and Resin. The reason I mention it is, the Fusion is only $169 USD right now ( https://www.anycubic.com/collections/sales/products/anycubic-photon-3d-printer ). https://www.anycubic.com/pages/anycubic-5th-anniversary
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 21:16
|
|
|
drunk mutt posted:Anycubic is having a 5 year anniversary sale as well as it looks like they are introducing new lines for both FDM and Resin. I preordered the new one for $209 but there is also the wash and cure machine on sale for $129. Anyone know if that’s worth it or am I better off building my own rotating platform and UV light box? I’m pretty handy but also not opposed to paying $ if it saves time and  .
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 23:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 00:50 |
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:I preordered the new one for $209 but there is also the wash and cure machine on sale for $129. Anyone know if that’s worth it or am I better off building my own rotating platform and UV light box? I’m pretty handy but also not opposed to paying $ if it saves time and I got one about a month or so ago, and I'd say it's definitely been worth it so far. It's one of those little conveniences that you didn't really think you'd need until you actually got it and started using it, and found it helped streamline things a bit.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 23:11
|
|