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ionn posted:Not yet. Unless I've terribly misunderstood how it fits together, I first need to press the hub (or whatever that part is called, that has the outside part of the splines and the flange with the wheel studs in it) out of the bearing, then I can remove the circlip behind it to get the bearing out of the upright. oh i forgot how it goes together in the upright; from the diff side: bearing, circlip, hub you should be able to just press the hub out using a 10t press, it'll probably take one of the races with it, but it's fine. the circlip is a huge pain in the rear end to get out, but the bearing can be pressed out using a standard sided ball hitch.
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Sep 4, 2020 02:43
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BlackMK4 posted:Anyone know anything about this car? I made him a sight-unseen offer and I'm hoping he accepts. I pick it up on Thursday. Bunch of pictures here https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...GthX3JiZmZUUU5n
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Sep 4, 2020 17:35
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Needs a bigger wing STAT. Congrats!
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Sep 4, 2020 17:53
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Congrats Mk4 that thing is wicked. Post video of it on the track ASAP. Are you keeping the S2K as well or replacing it with this?
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Sep 4, 2020 18:09
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Russian Bear posted:Needs a bigger wing STAT. Congrats! I've got one of those...  Won't go on the car because its too wide though  Diametunim posted:Congrats Mk4 that thing is wicked. Post video of it on the track ASAP. Are you keeping the S2K as well or replacing it with this? I've got 6 days between mid-October and the first week of November, there will be video. My plan is to sit on the S2000 until I sort this thing out, then probably sell off all of the suspension / brakes / aero / ecu / new cf hardtop / etc and drive it around as a daily. I'm guessing I'll probably sell it though I was basically at the crossroads of caging it and making proper class power, it so turned out that it costs significantly less to part out the S2000, sell it, and buy the Miata. This thing affords me the ability to easily class between ST/TT2 and ST/TT4 depending on tune, tires, and weight -- the S2000 is bottom of class TT4 and is really only a decent platform for TT5 outside of regional. Anyway, 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Sep 4, 2020 |
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Sep 4, 2020 18:43
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TrueChaos posted:Wait, you removed the axle/hub/upright and then fought with it to get the axle out, and are now struggling to get the hub out of the upright? Correct, the fights I've had so far and won have been the lower control arm bolt and then getting the axle out. Hub from bearing, and bearing from upright are left. I don't want to reattach it to the car though, I can get it mounted solidly enough in a vise at my work bench. I do not have a proper hub puller to attach the slide hammer to, but I can take one end off one of the slide hammers I have (it's a pretty long one with two different hooks threaded onto either end), stick it in through the hub, and just reattach the hook so it whacks perfectly straight on the inside of the hub. I didn't manage to make it move the other day, but I didn't have time to do a proper heat treatment. Will also make a little bushing/washer so it won't damage the hub when hammering away (sliding or swinging hammer, will try both) Phone posted:oh i forgot how it goes together in the upright; from the diff side: bearing, circlip, hub If it's any consolation, so did I. I was tapping away at the inner flanged part of the upright, since it looked like it could be a very dirty circlip, making some nice dents in it before I realised it was the casting. The hub+upright won't fit nicely in my rather small 10t press. The hub flange is too wide to fit through the base of the press and I can't get it to sit steady and straight enough on the control arm mounts of the uprights. Would need to fabricate some way to mount it there, which is plan B in case a hammer will not resolve our differences. If the race comes out with the hub, I'll just grind and chisel the thing off, so that in itself shouldn't be a big deal. As for the circlip, I got a new one with the new bearing so I can just grind the old one off if it turns out to be difficult. Once I get that far, it shouldn't be a problem putting the upright in the press either. I still feel I have some more effort in me to keep working on this bearing thing before I chicken out and order a used upright, but I will do that if that's what it takes to get it back on the road in reasonable time. I am having second thoughts about my plan to preemtively replace the right side wheel bearing too (I plan on replacing all the bushings this winter and will have it apart anyway), since I have no reason to think that side isn't just as stuck as this one. ionn fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Sep 4, 2020 |
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Sep 4, 2020 21:09
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Stupid ddouble post quote-when-editing.
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Sep 4, 2020 21:10
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ionn posted:Correct, the fights I've had so far and won have been the lower control arm bolt and then getting the axle out. Hub from bearing, and bearing from upright are left. I don't want to reattach it to the car though, I can get it mounted solidly enough in a vise at my work bench. I do not have a proper hub puller to attach the slide hammer to, but I can take one end off one of the slide hammers I have (it's a pretty long one with two different hooks threaded onto either end), stick it in through the hub, and just reattach the hook so it whacks perfectly straight on the inside of the hub. I didn't manage to make it move the other day, but I didn't have time to do a proper heat treatment. Will also make a little bushing/washer so it won't damage the hub when hammering away (sliding or swinging hammer, will try both) Honestly, put the upright back in (it's 3 bolts, they're already loose, you don't need to torque them or anything!) and then the upright is well supported top and bottom. This will be better than grabbing just the top or the bottom in a vice, you may have more luck. Also, not sure where you're located, but I was able to rent one of these for free: http://imgur.com/a/cjXUFrp Bolts on to the hub so you don't need to worry about wrapping around the back of the upright. The rental was literally pay deposit that is the cost of the tool, get deposit back when you return the tool. This might be your best option short of taking it somewhere and having it pressed in/out.
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Sep 5, 2020 00:20
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I tried removing my axle when a bearing started to creak. I couldn't get it out so I took it to a shop. They also couldn't get it out. It may just not come out. Its clearly a somewhat common thing.
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Sep 5, 2020 01:26
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Yeah, it is possible for poo poo to seize up so badly that all you can do is replace parts. Had that happen on my MS3 - bad wheel bearing with a hub, knuckle, and CV that bent the press before even budging.
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Sep 5, 2020 03:26
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TrueChaos posted:Honestly, put the upright back in (it's 3 bolts, they're already loose, you don't need to torque them or anything!) and then the upright is well supported top and bottom. This will be better than grabbing just the top or the bottom in a vice, you may have more luck. Also, not sure where you're located, but I was able to rent one of these for free: You do you, I'm going like this. It's a big vise, I can support the other end to the table and clamp or bolt it down, and I get it in a better spot for applying fire and hammers. At least so far, it's not holding it down that's the problem. Tool rentals are not really a thing in Sweden. More expensive tools and machines can be found, but I have not seen anyone renting out these specialty tools. I can get one of those hub pullers from Amazon (just the thing that fits the hub, it's sold on its own and I already have enough slide hammers) and I will probably do that just to have one. For now though, I don't see why having the slide hammer go straight through the hub and whacking on the other side won't be just as good. It will also avoid any abuse to the wheel studs, or any possible flex in the flanged part of the hub.
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Sep 5, 2020 07:17
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ionn posted:You do you, I'm going like this. It's a big vise, I can support the other end to the table and clamp or bolt it down, and I get it in a better spot for applying fire and hammers. At least so far, it's not holding it down that's the problem. I'm pretty sure the automotive tool rental thing evolved from people buying specialty tools and then returning them once they'd finished the one job they needed it for. The only difference is that now there is one item earmarked for all the abuse. Sucks to be from a country where all the customers aren't buttholes I guess.
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Sep 5, 2020 09:45
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There are tool rentals, but automotive ones are either super expensive or non-existent. That reminds me, I need to sell my 2 timing kits that I've used once each that cost between $100-200.
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Sep 5, 2020 10:18
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Cat Hatter posted:I'm pretty sure the automotive tool rental thing evolved from people buying specialty tools and then returning them once they'd finished the one job they needed it for. The only difference is that now there is one item earmarked for all the abuse. Sucks to be from a country where all the customers aren't buttholes I guess. Partly. It also encourages repeat visits where you suddenly are getting money back. This sometimes leads to spending of even more money!
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Sep 5, 2020 10:45
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Got the longblock back together today.  Replaced some old rear end hoses. You can see how they've loosened a little.  And ended the day by breaking a water pump pulley bolt. If you need a set let me know. I had to order 25 of them   Also if you want my old rods for a coffee table or a random project, pay shipping and they're yours. Just PM me.  But don't let them near your cars unless you want to spread the curse.
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Sep 5, 2020 18:00
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ionn posted:You do you, I'm going like this. It's a big vise, I can support the other end to the table and clamp or bolt it down, and I get it in a better spot for applying fire and hammers. At least so far, it's not holding it down that's the problem. Sucks about the tool rentals, it's saved me a lot of $$ on things I would have only used once over the years. And if you've got a way of fully supporting the upright, then putting it back in won't give you anything - that must be one heck of a vice setup you've got! Can you share a picture of the through the hub setup you're using? I'm curious as to how it's set up, having trouble visualizing it.
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Sep 5, 2020 18:46
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I've finally finished repainting my 95 M edition from a horrible, sunburned and burned through the basecoat merlot mica to a lurid blue. Here's my miata, the Skittle, wearing Porsche's Miami blue over black cloth interior.    This is the first paint job I've ever done and I did all the work myself, including cutting out rusted rockers and welding in new metal, which I've also never done before. It's nowhere near perfect, but at least it's finally all the same color and it's mostly shiny. It used to be about four different colors with a completely trashed and moldy interior. I would share how much this has cost me, but it's frankly embarrassing how much I've spent on a $1,100 car...
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Sep 7, 2020 15:01
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Welcome to the DIY paint and body club. Looks better than the Volkzda so good job.
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Sep 7, 2020 17:16
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It looks really good.
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Sep 7, 2020 17:21
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Success! And stupidity-induced failure! I was away over the weekend, but last night I got things apart without too much fuss. I made an adapter bushing to apply all the force to the hub without risking damage to it, and got the slide hammer set up as pictured further down (though with a hub and upright there as well). I had intended just to "dry-fit" things before bringing out the torch to try and heat the bearing up, and I just gave it a few good hits to make sure it was clamped securely. As it turned out, that was enough to get the hub out. The circlip didn't put up much of a fight, and I could then get the bearing out the slow and steady way with a bearing puller (it's a kit of various adapters and a big-rear end bolt). The inner race came off by just hitting it with a chisel without any damage to the hub. So far so good, and the mating surfaces all cleaned up nicely. Then, as it was getting late, I decided I should also press the new bearing in because why not. Doing that with a hydraulic press is pretty undramatic, but I did a major derp and used the wrong sized bushing to support the inner part of the bearing when pressing the hub in. It was too large and just rested against the seal, so I pressed the new bearing apart and destroyed it. I haven't yet gotten the used axles I found on the local helpful MX5 facebook group and a bearing isn't too expensive, so it's not the end of the world but it's annoying as hell to do dumb poo poo like that. I ordered another new bearing (same FAG brand, it's about €25), and was at the same time looking for replacement outer CV joints since that's the only part of the axle that is damaged. And lo and behold, at one parts place I found one that seems to mostly be for a lot of BG-generation 1.8L Mazda 323's and some MX-3's, but also allegedly fits the MX-5 NB 1.8. It says "front axle" (because 323), but the dimensions and spline counts and whatnot listed match the busted cv joint I have. It's without the ABS ring, but maybe I can move that over from the broken CV joint. In any case, I just ordered one as it was a measly €12. If it turns out it does indeed work, I'll get a couple more just to have spares available. If it doesn't, I'll get one of the more expensive (~€70) ones. I have a set of axles on the way, this is just to see if I can rebuild and fix the one I have. TrueChaos posted:that must be one heck of a vice setup you've got! Not really a fantastic vice. I got two (one on each workbench), both have about 15cm wide jaws. One of them is probably old enough to actually have been born as a 6". They're both decent quality and the moving jaw doesn't move side-to-side, and they keep the clamping force even when hammering on stuff. The one I used for this is mounted to the table (a steel welding table on caster wheels) close enough to the edge that I can put the upright on its side and support the other end on the table or to something else clamped there. It did the trick when I was pounding the axle out of the hub, but for the rest of it it was held well enough clamped just on one end. When slide-hammering the hub out, I had the upright clamped on its lower end, just below the hub. It's shaped in such a way that it can be held fairly well, and it was enough in this case. Here's how I had things arranged to get the hub out of the bearing:  The slide hammer has two different hooks at either end, both of which are threaded on. I took one of them off, put the shaft of the hammer through the hub (at the time mounted in the bearing in the upright, not pictured). On the other side I put a spacer I made with a shoulder that just fit the hub, as the slide hammer hook thing is a weird cast shape that could otherwise damage the hub. I wanted to make a whole thing to screw on the end of the rod instead of the hook (more rigid, and more room to hammer), but I don't have the right kind of internal threading lathe tool nor anything to make it out of other than mild steel.
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Sep 7, 2020 20:50
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BloodBag posted:I've finally finished repainting my 95 M edition from a horrible, sunburned and burned through the basecoat merlot mica to a lurid blue. Here's my miata, the Skittle, wearing Porsche's Miami blue over black cloth interior. Fantastic work.  How difficult was it to repair the rusted rockers? I'd really like to work on my fabrication skills at some point and I think being able to repair bodywork would be a valuable skill to have. Diametunim fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Sep 7, 2020 |
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Sep 7, 2020 21:24
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ionn posted:[bearing stuff] uh... wait... you're planning on reusing the hub?
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Sep 7, 2020 22:04
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Phone posted:uh... wait... you're planning on reusing the hub? I am. There's no damage to it, it doesn't have any wear surfaces, and new ones are out of stock pretty much everywhere on this side of the Atlantic ocean. E: the inside splined surface of it was part of the most stuck thing I've ever gotten apart. After looking at it, while the axle is scored and ugly on the spline "ridges" (from pressing them apart), I can't see anything like that inside the hub. After cleaning out the rust-gunk-filled grooves, it looks shiny and nice. In case some part of it is hardened (like the spline surface) I may have done something to it with the torch, but it can't really have gotten hot enough other than at the very end to anneal anything. ionn fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Sep 8, 2020 |
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Sep 8, 2020 06:39
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The 8yo Westco AGM battery in my '92 Miata finally gave up. I checked Amazon, and don't see the Westco for sale. What is the good battery right now, and where can I order it online? Thanks! Alzabo fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Sep 8, 2020 |
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Sep 8, 2020 22:26
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A few new bolts and she's all together.    There is a huge weight off my back as the hoard of bolts everywhere shrinks. It's all too familiar from this point forwards.
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Sep 9, 2020 00:14
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Alzabo posted:The 8yo Westco AGM battery in my '92 Miata finally gave up. I have the Miata battery from Battery Mart and it's been holding up fine 3 years and running
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Sep 9, 2020 03:50
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So about a year ago the engine went out in my 94m. I parked it in my driveway, put a cover on it, and bought an NB, thinking maybe one day I’d put a new engine in it or at least salvage some parts. Well today I took the cover off and uh... On a related note, the seats cleaned up fairly well. I was thinking about making a chair out of the drivers seat, but I’m curious if it’s worth anything. It’s been reupholstered fully with nice leather up to the headrest speakers (which were functional last time they were actually hooked up years ago). 
Elysium fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Sep 9, 2020 |
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Sep 9, 2020 16:17
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Hit my first 2020 mx5 issue at 4.5k miles. CEL, lost traction light, collision indicator light all on, (collision light turns off after 1 min). I was in second at 25 mph in town, acceleration didn’t help much, changing gears didn’t either, engine sounds different (more... raw?) Dealership pulled a misfire reading, and performed 3 tests which came back fine. They want me to come pick up the car and basically see if it happens again.
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Sep 10, 2020 20:04
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Also a PSA to check under the hood after taking a car to new mechanics, look what I found under the hood 
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Sep 11, 2020 02:13
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1 part of the shock tower reinforcement?
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Sep 11, 2020 05:26
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And a free (14?) deep socket ?
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Sep 11, 2020 05:47
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Is there a list of containment seats somewhere that allow you to sit really low without the floor drop kit?
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Sep 11, 2020 17:24
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BlackMK4 posted:Is there a list of containment seats somewhere that allow you to sit really low without the floor drop kit? If you want to go as low as possible without cutting out the rear seat mount cross piece or dropping the floor you have to go with an aluminum seat with a thin or no pad. As far as specific models IDK, I've only had brief experience with the Ultrashield Spec Miata seat.
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Sep 11, 2020 17:41
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Balls, those things look uncomfortable but I've never sat in one before to see. NASA takes points for the floor cut (come the gently caress on, Greg)
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Sep 11, 2020 17:49
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BlackMK4 posted:Balls, those things look uncomfortable but I've never sat in one before to see. NASA takes points for the floor cut (come the gently caress on, Greg) lmbo
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Sep 11, 2020 22:35
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At the floor cut thing?
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Sep 11, 2020 22:43
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Thom ZombieForm posted:Hit my first 2020 mx5 issue at 4.5k miles. CEL, lost traction light, collision indicator light all on, (collision light turns off after 1 min). I was in second at 25 mph in town, acceleration didn’t help much, changing gears didn’t either, engine sounds different (more... raw?) Did it stop after you turned it off and on again? I had something similar happen on my 2015 Mazda3 Optimum (2.2 Diesel auto), was a busted exhaust pressure sensor sending the ECU into some crazy safe mode with the entire dash lighting up with errors and poo poo.
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Sep 11, 2020 22:45
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BlackMK4 posted:At the floor cut thing? yeah, i've never dealt with greg but i know a lottttttttt of people who have
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Sep 11, 2020 23:16
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How tall are you Mk4 and are you going to do W2W in the car? If you're tall at all your only options are drop pan or bolting the seat to the floor. As someone who is 6'2 I've been struggling to fit a racing seat in their miata without modifying the chassis I haven't had much luck. I'm about to try mounting a Sparco QRT R to a set of PCI fixed mounts and if that doesn't work my next best option is to remove the rear humps and bolt to the floor. I can't bring myself to put a drop in my miata. If neither of those things pan out I'm buying a 350z
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Sep 12, 2020 00:47
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Phone posted:yeah, i've never dealt with greg but i know a lottttttttt of people who have I hear that. The car also has those Singular vents that are illegal because of the gurney flap  Diametunim posted:How tall are you Mk4 and are you going to do W2W in the car? If you're tall at all your only options are drop pan or bolting the seat to the floor. I'm 5'8" and it'll be w2w'd. I just looked and the rear humps have already been removed. Interesting thing is my S2000 has a Sparco Circuit, same as this car. I guess there was a revision, the seats are different sizes and the seat padding is easily 2x as thick in the Miata one. Probably just test swap the S2000 Circuit into the car if I need more space than the seat pad swap gave me, we will see.
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Sep 12, 2020 00:53
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