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TobinHatesYou posted:Clean your drivetrain while you’re at it. That is my speed dirt, its aerodynamic you see. kimbo305 posted:Pretty sure that’s a 25: I got two from the second link, so thanks
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Sep 7, 2020 04:38
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Doing a quick check here. I just got new wheels so I'm going through the process of setting them up. I normally ride a 11-28T cassette on the trainer and the bike, but I have a spare 11-25T cassette that I'd like to wear out. I want to slap the 11-25T on the trainer so I can have 11-28s on this wheelset and my older wheels too.Shimano posted:11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28T Am I right in thinking that my RD wouldn't present issues with the 11-25T for the first 5 cogs, and after that, the chain might start to rub and skip etc so I'd most likely have to adjust my RD?
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Sep 7, 2020 16:25
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At best going from a 28 to a 25 you don't need to do anything. At worst you should only need to back the B screw off a bit. Any barrel adjustments swapping between trainer and wheel would be the same regardless.
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Sep 7, 2020 17:13
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Alright, thanks. I didn't want to go through all of the trouble if it meant more fiddling down the road.
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Sep 7, 2020 17:45
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 This is strange. Should the inner tube be this much bigger than the tire? Granted, last time I ever changed a tire was like eight years ago. I’m getting back into cycling after eight years. Bike is a circa 2009 Trek 1.2 Update: also, this tube is also too big for the rim. Dolemite fucked around with this message at 13:41 on Sep 10, 2020 |
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Sep 10, 2020 13:39
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Tubes stretch and expand when you inflate them, they get really big if there is no tire to contain them. If you deflate you'll see it's the same size as your tire/rim
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Sep 10, 2020 13:47
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FireTora posted:Tubes stretch and expand when you inflate them, they get really big if there is no tire to contain them. If you deflate you'll see it's the same size as your tire/rim You were right! Once I got to mounting the tire, everything fit! One down, one to go. —- Now, I’m running into a problem on the second install. The inner tube and both beads of the tire are on the rim. But, the tube never inflates. I’m assuming that maybe I punctured the inner tube? The beads on these Michelin Pro 4s are VERY difficult, so I had to use tire levers near the end. Edit: Crud, there was a pinhole air leak in the tube. Good thing I bought a spare... Dolemite fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Sep 10, 2020 |
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Sep 10, 2020 14:56
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Two independent problems that the bike shop near me has said they have solved twice, but haven't. bike is under a month old and I'm going to lose my mind if I cant get it fixed 1. 2x setup when im on the big cog in front and in the middle on the rear cassette, my chain will refuse to stay in gear. skipping might be the right word but its more like it just keeps trying to shift over and over. it doesnt happen all the time, but it happens and sounds like im wrecking my drivetrain 2. when I am in pedaling pretty hard in the bottom two gears on the rear cassette I get what sounds like a frog croaking on the right downstroke. apologies if I dont even know the right words to describe my problems, im very noob when it comes to actually doing this stuff.
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Sep 10, 2020 15:14
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Goddamnit, the extra inner tube has a leak, too. I can’t tell if this is my doing, or the factory. Only one out of the three didn’t have this issue. But again, I had to use tire levers to get the last part of the bead on.
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Sep 10, 2020 15:44
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Time posted:1. 2x setup when im on the big cog in front and in the middle on the rear cassette, my chain will refuse to stay in gear. skipping might be the right word but its more like it just keeps trying to shift over and over. Time posted:2. when I am in pedaling pretty hard in the bottom two gears on the rear cassette
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Sep 10, 2020 15:47
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CopperHound posted:Does this happen only when pedaling hard or even with soft pedaling? Was your chain replaced recently without changing back gears? Can you tell if it is trying to shift off your front or back gears? 1. soft and hard pedaling. I dont think they replaced my chain, I'll ride it at lunch and see if its trying to shift 2. two smallest rings, the highest speed gears I have
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Sep 10, 2020 15:48
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Dolemite posted:I had to use tire levers to get the last part of the bead on. When trying again by hand, save the spot with the valve for last and try to get some slack by squeezing the tire toward the center of your rim profile. Before inflating pull back on the bead all the way around the tire to make sure no tube is pinched between tire and rim. If there is some stuck at the valve, just push the stem down some to free it up.
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Sep 10, 2020 15:54
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Time posted:Two independent problems that the bike shop near me has said they have solved twice, but haven't. bike is under a month old and I'm going to lose my mind if I cant get it fixed Sometimes, the bike will shift perfectly on the bike stand but when you're riding it under load, the stresses on the frame bend it slightly which can mess up the gear/shifter indexing. It's weird that it's happening in the middle of the cassette though. Usually happens around the top or bottom. Try a couple turns on the rear shifter barrel adjuster one way or the other. Otherwise, could be a bent rear derailleur hanger.
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Sep 10, 2020 17:37
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CopperHound posted:When trying again by hand, save the spot with the valve for last and try to get some slack by squeezing the tire toward the center of your rim profile. I was always taught to do the opposite- the valve is the first spot you get the bead on and the last spot where you may need a tire lever should be roughly 180° from the valve. Is there a reason to do the valve side last?
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Sep 10, 2020 17:39
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spf3million posted:Sometimes, the bike will shift perfectly on the bike stand but when you're riding it under load, the stresses on the frame bend it slightly which can mess up the gear/shifter indexing. It's weird that it's happening in the middle of the cassette though. Usually happens around the top or bottom. Try a couple turns on the rear shifter barrel adjuster one way or the other. Otherwise, could be a bent rear derailleur hanger. I'm going to feel like a complete dolt if its the barrel adjuster because I think I know how its happening - I store my bike upstairs in my house and the back wheel bumps down each individual step
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Sep 10, 2020 18:07
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Bike is a REI ADV 3.1 from circa 2017-2018. Link Question, this front brake is flat mount correct? Looking to replace the caliper with https://www.yokozunausa.com/shop/product/yokozuna-ultimo-road-disc-brake-post-mount-2190
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Sep 10, 2020 18:07
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that’s a post mount, what you linked to is also a post mount
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Sep 10, 2020 18:13
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I'm smrt you see. 
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Sep 10, 2020 18:15
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Your current brake is post mount. The caliper you listed is post mount. That’s an expensive caliper. The HY/RDs can be had a lot cheaper if you’re wanting the hybrid mech discs E: should have refreshed
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Sep 10, 2020 18:16
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a loathsome bird posted:I was always taught to do the opposite- the valve is the first spot you get the bead on and the last spot where you may need a tire lever should be roughly 180° from the valve. Is there a reason to do the valve side last? Doing the valve edge last allows the opposite side of the wheel to sit in the middle of the center channel and provide a few mm more slack. If you start at the valve, it can't do that and it'll be more difficult to get that final piece over the rim.
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Sep 10, 2020 18:22
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Time posted:I'm going to feel like a complete dolt if its the barrel adjuster because I think I know how its happening - I store my bike upstairs in my house and the back wheel bumps down each individual step With a normal amount of cable tension, that should settle out eventually, like after a few stair trips, all the looseness will propagate to the RD alignment and can be dialed out with the adjuster. If it happens again, something else might be going on. I’d double check the clamp on the shifter cable is tight enough. But not crushing the cable apart.
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Sep 10, 2020 18:39
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kimbo305 posted:With a normal amount of cable tension, that should settle out eventually, like after a few stair trips, all the looseness will propagate to the RD alignment and can be dialed out with the adjuster. If it happens again, something else might be going on. thanks! I'll check that
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Sep 10, 2020 19:13
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I bought a Shimano 11 speed chain, the Deore/Ultegra level one. It came with a master link. Can I use one of the 11 speed connector pins instead on this chain? From my Google results, it looks like you can, but I just want to be sure. I don't want to be stranded in the middle of the wilderness over this. Pre-edit. I am skipping out on the master link if possible because they seems to die on my gravel bike when in the lowest gear combo.
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Sep 10, 2020 21:13
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Time posted:Two independent problems that the bike shop near me has said they have solved twice, but haven't. bike is under a month old and I'm going to lose my mind if I cant get it fixed Does it only do it when you're putting down a lot of torque? Sounds like something is flexing around.
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Sep 10, 2020 22:02
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Does it only do it when you're putting down a lot of torque? The second issue, yes. The first one is not related to torque as far as I can tell
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Sep 10, 2020 22:07
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CopperHound posted:This is kind of an advanced procedure that is easy to gently caress up. Try you best without a tire lever and see if you can get your hands on a bike tire bead jack if you absolutely cannot do it by hand. Thanks for the tips! Since I tend to stick to fancy racing tires, I'll probably invest in a tire jack. Since, well, I'm tired of stiff sidewalls!
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Sep 11, 2020 15:09
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sweat poteto posted:Doing the valve edge last allows the opposite side of the wheel to sit in the middle of the center channel and provide a few mm more slack. If you start at the valve, it can't do that and it'll be more difficult to get that final piece over the rim. I always do the valve section first but make sure my final section is somewhere 90-120° from there so the opposite side has some slack
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Sep 11, 2020 16:52
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norp posted:I always do the valve section first but make sure my final section is somewhere 90-120° from there so the opposite side has some slack When we say opposite side, we don't mean the opposite bead, but instead another section of the same bead. By popping the bead into the rim at the valve, that bead automatically sits outside the center channel and that leaves you without precious fractions of a millimeter later on.
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Sep 12, 2020 00:38
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Huh, I've been doing it wrong all this time!
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Sep 12, 2020 00:55
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Holy poo poo! The tire bead jack made installing the tire a breeze! Combining the tip to start 180 to the valve with the bead jack made the whole thing a snap! Thanks, bike repair thread! I may have derailleur adjustment questions tomorrow, but the articles from Sheldon Brown have been good at breaking down the adjust process. Can't wait to fully restore my bike!
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Sep 12, 2020 01:51
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Friendly reminder to grease and not over torque your XD cassettes if you ever plan on taking them off. Guess I’ll be buying a new driver and cassette now 
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Sep 12, 2020 22:34
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I got two Bontrager freehub bodies, a 54t and 108t.  From everything I've read, the functional difference is solely in that the 54t body has 3 pawls and 3 empty sockets instead of the full 6. But I'm curious about 2 things -- 1) anyone know if there's a difference in the bearings? The 54t has Xero 6803LH:  Googling for that doesn't turn anything up. And the 108t has some unbranded 6803LB:  2) what's the purpose of the smoothed out landings at the base of the splines on the 108t body? They're slightly raised and sligthtly less bevel compared to the rest of the spline. The 54t body has the same thing, but not smoothed out. 
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Sep 13, 2020 02:34
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kimbo305 posted:1) anyone know if there's a difference in the bearings? https://eshop.ntn-snr.com/en/Suffix-Prefix-Equivalences-3964225.html As for the rolley part of the bearings, without any manufacturer tolerance claims I would more or less consider them equivalent.
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Sep 13, 2020 07:02
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kimbo305 posted:I got two Bontrager freehub bodies, a 54t and 108t. The cynical part of me wants to say its to stop you from using individual cogs on the last few positions of your freehub.
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Sep 13, 2020 07:13
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Yesterday I replaced the shifter cables. Neither was working well at all, but the new cables fixed the problem. My frankenbike has 5 cogs at the back wheel, but 7 places on the shifter on the handlebars, and 3 and 3 for the front deraileur and shifter. The front shifter cannot *quite* get to number 3, with it opened up and the cable in my hand, I could see the ratchet mechanism falling short by about 3 mm, I'm not sure what to do about that. But! with the new cables I was able to get it reasonably well dialed in to shift between the smaller two cogs at the front, and through all five at the rear - on the shifter, #2 corresponds to the largest cog (#1 pushes the chain into the thin metal shield on the wheel, but the chain does not come off the cog), and #7 to the smallest cog, with #6 just a noise maker, being somewhere between the smallest and second-smallest cogs. The shifter can jump 2 positions depending on how hard and how fast I push on it with my finger / thumb, so it's mostly going to be a matter of me getting used to it. I am happy. I had already gotten the brakes set up "good enough", I've got replacement cables for them, too, but maybe that will be a project for another weekend. Today I got the usb-rechargeable lights charging and I installed an el-cheapo basic trip computer / spedometer. And I took for a test ride, the first real ride ever! Just down the street to the end of the block and back, but I ran through all of the gears and nothing bad happened. Success!  DSC_0920 by Martin Brummell, on FlickrI need to buy a lock and hopefully a side mirror for either my helmet or (I would prefer) the end of the handlebars, as I used to have long long ago. And a set of basic toe clips to suit normal shoes, again that's something I used to have and my old habits of pulling up slightly on the pedals are still in place. Also fenders, I don't want a big wet stripe up my back when I ride it in the rain. \/\/\/ will do! thanks! ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 10:08 on Sep 13, 2020 |
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Sep 13, 2020 07:16
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ExecuDork posted:#1 pushes the chain into the thin metal shield on the wheel, but the chain does not come off the cog Please learn about adjusting the low limit screw.
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Sep 13, 2020 07:30
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Had an incredibly unlucky encounter with a loose rock today that decided to pop up and wedge itself between the ground and my downtube as I rolled over it. It didn't puncture the aluminum but the dent is about 3mm deep at the point and almost the full width of the downtube. There's a small chip in the weld but I think that's earlier damage that went unnoticed, based on how much dirt is in it. What do you think, maintenance thread? Is it still safe to ride or is my season over? I can't afford to replace the frame right now, let alone buy a new bike.
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Sep 13, 2020 17:42
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Peel off the sticker and look for cracks. If there are no cracks, its totally fine.
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Sep 13, 2020 18:13
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Peeled and cleaned a bit. I don't see any cracks, just dented pretty harshly. Will probably still take it to the LBS when they open next. Guess I'm grateful that it spared the BB shell. I put new wheels on this bike this year, hoping to keep it another 2 or 3 seasons. 
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Sep 13, 2020 18:29
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That looks fine to me, I’d still keep an eye on it for a few rides at least.
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Sep 13, 2020 18:32
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