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I put together a Triarch Stalker kit this past week or so. Painted the cockpit in sub assemblies to make it easier to do the Praetorian and his control panel but when I started to glue things together the front of the cock-pit and the metal panels just wouldn't line up and I couldn't figure out what this was the result of. Anyways, I tried to disguise the misalignment enough with some bits so that it doesn't look dumb. Hope I succeeded!  
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Sep 12, 2020 20:40
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| # ? May 17, 2024 19:55 |
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 Finished my nobz! I’ll take better photos tomorrow when the light is good. With that I’ve finished all the orks I bought.
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Sep 12, 2020 23:41
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Verisimilidude posted:
Lies! No one ever finishes all their orks.
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Sep 12, 2020 23:50
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Eej posted:Stopped by the art store today and they had some Winson and Newton Series 7 available (yay!) and they had a size 0 for 30% off Clearance (yay!) because it was a display model (oh)  Rinsed out the Masters Cleaner and gave it a twirl and it seems to mostly keep its point. Couple of stray hairs that don't snap into place so I think I'll just try conditioning it again for another day to see if I can convince them to hold shape.
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Sep 12, 2020 23:58
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Any tips for getting the primer off Nolzur's miniatures? "Don't Buy Them"? I have been soaking a couple of orcs in everclear and toothbrushing them all day long and I've chiseled off maybe half of the paint. I don't know what the hell they are using to prime these things but it is the absolute worst - do they buy their poo poo in rattlecans at dollar general??? For minis with such fine details it's a shame they saturate them with so much paint
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Sep 13, 2020 00:03
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Mirthless posted:Any tips for getting the primer off Nolzur's miniatures? "Don't Buy Them"? I have been soaking a couple of orcs in everclear and toothbrushing them all day long and I've chiseled off maybe half of the paint. I don't know what the hell they are using to prime these things but it is the absolute worst - do they buy their poo poo in rattlecans at dollar general??? For minis with such fine details it's a shame they saturate them with so much paint It really is a shame! I don’t know if some of the models are just terribly molded or if they have so much primer that the detail is clouded. I bought a few that were fantastic but several others that were basically trash. I can only recommend checking the minis in the pack before buying them to make sure you’re getting a good batch. If you need something to look up for stripping primer, I know they’re primed with Vallejo surface primer.
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Sep 13, 2020 00:39
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I finally finished my Eye Tyrant.  
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Sep 13, 2020 01:23
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Eej posted:
Be prepared to pluck the occasional hair from your brushes in the interest of keeping the brush as a whole conditioned.
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Sep 13, 2020 02:05
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Mirthless posted:Any tips for getting the primer off Nolzur's miniatures? "Don't Buy Them"? I have been soaking a couple of orcs in everclear and toothbrushing them all day long and I've chiseled off maybe half of the paint. I don't know what the hell they are using to prime these things but it is the absolute worst - do they buy their poo poo in rattlecans at dollar general??? For minis with such fine details it's a shame they saturate them with so much paint I tried literally every plastic-safe solvent I could find and nothing worked lol. That poo poo might as well be molded onto it, I have no idea what they use for it but it's the most stubborn paint I've ever encountered in my life and I routinely strip old minis coated in enamel and 30-year-old primer. It's not a big deal on their larger models but the smaller stuff is just a mess of filled-in detail that is absolutely not worth the effort of trying to get it off. Honestly wish they'd just sell a version of them that aren't pre-primed, market it as "advanced" or something.
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Sep 13, 2020 02:25
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:I tried literally every plastic-safe solvent I could find and nothing worked lol. That poo poo might as well be molded onto it, I have no idea what they use for it but it's the most stubborn paint I've ever encountered in my life and I routinely strip old minis coated in enamel and 30-year-old primer. Yeah like on the bigger models the faces can still get gummed up real easy but the sculpts are generally good and the larger details are hard to obscure. It's a bummer with the small models because they seem like one of the better lines for PC minis but I haven't been able to make a single dang one look even a little bit good. For small models I just end up buying Bones most of the time.
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Sep 13, 2020 02:39
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PoptartsNinja posted:I finally finished my Eye Tyrant. This is fantastic! Also, the model looks like it's having the time of its life. "I FUCKIN LOVE EYE LASERS!!"
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Sep 13, 2020 05:02
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My litte familiar is done. I ended up copying some of the magical glyphs from papyrus(?) attached to the staff of his master instead of trying to do writing on the book pages. It turned out ok i think  Thank you for your suggestions on how to deal with this.
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Sep 13, 2020 12:24
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Is there a go-to inexpensive carrying case for minis? I'v got a bunch of old Warhams plus new Nolzur's* that I bring to D&D sessions to use as NPCs but right now they're just in Tupperware containers with a few pieces of the soft backing foam from the old GW blister packs, and I'm worried they'll chip/break against one another. * Mirthless posted:Yeah like on the bigger models the faces can still get gummed up real easy but the sculpts are generally good and the larger details are hard to obscure. It's a bummer with the small models because they seem like one of the better lines for PC minis but I haven't been able to make a single dang one look even a little bit good. For small models I just end up buying Bones most of the time. God these things can be hit or miss and yes, the sculpts are really good. Their gnome sorceress with the fire staff and lightning bolt is great, but then you have parts like her circlet which doesn't exist on the actual mini because it's buried under paint, or the vest that has zero detail besides a few scroll cases. The blights are missing one eye! I finished a few and went back to lizardmen from the old WHFB boxed set because I couldn't bring myself to start another mini only to find that half the face doesn't exist or something.
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Sep 13, 2020 14:44
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blue collar orc posted:My litte familiar is done. I ended up copying some of the magical glyphs from papyrus(?) attached to the staff of his master instead of trying to do writing on the book pages. It turned out ok i think The big magic glyphs were a nice touch! I know it was probably unintentional but it feels like you can almost make out what the glyphs are conveying. A tree, two people, and a squiggly line? Gotta be lightning bolt! A bird, a skull, and a snake? Some sort of poison spell maybe? Guzwar posted:Is there a go-to inexpensive carrying case for minis? I use cheap "stackable organizers." They're basically just plastic tubs with handles that can be stacked (the good ones will let you clip them together, too, so you can carry 2-3 tubs at once. You can use pre-scored foam to make little individual mini chambers for any minis you want to protect, and you get a ton of stray filler foam you can use to line a bigger compartment for minis you care less about (like zombies or etc). You may be able to find a cheaper alternative, but I've used this stuff and it's very nice. It comes with a 1/4" solid backing sheet you can glue the foam to (bog standard PVA works great, foam has a lot of surface area). Just be sure to make your compartments before you glue your minis down!  I went with 2 square thick walls for my 'Mechs (because they're resin and fragile), with 1" foam for my small 'Mechs and 2" foam for my bigger or more fragile ones. For most common minis (Bones, Nolzurs) you could probably get away with 1" foam and 1 square walls, but for bigger, heavier minis (or fragile ones) you may need thicker walls to keep them secure. PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Sep 13, 2020 |
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Sep 13, 2020 14:57
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Guzwar posted:Is there a go-to inexpensive carrying case for minis? I'v got a bunch of old Warhams plus new Nolzur's* that I bring to D&D sessions to use as NPCs but right now they're just in Tupperware containers with a few pieces of the soft backing foam from the old GW blister packs, and I'm worried they'll chip/break against one another. My favorite cheap option is a baking tray with lid (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Rachael-Ray-Nonstick-Bakeware-13-Inch/dp/B00E4NN38A available at most big super markets, often even cheaper) and superglue/locktite a single 6mm x 2mm neodymium magnets under the base - grade n42 or higher on the magnet, they should be pretty cheap for a big stack of them. I also have an old cookie tin (kinda big and flat and round) that fit magnetized primaris perfectly, so that’s where my imperial fists troops live currently. It just gets tossed in a backpack. Not all cookie tins are magnetic though. I assume maybe not all baking trays either, but the ones I’ve tried have been. Works like a charm, you can just stuff the tray and tin in a backpack and no amount of jostling will shake them lose. I can literally throw my backpack across the room without the minis moving. My tray fits medium sized minis, like 40k killer kans, but nothing bigger. I’m sure that it’s possible to find bigger ones too. Only issue is that they can be hard to pick up from the baking tray because the magnets are quite strong, and the magnets can stick together when you’re picking them up off the table. E: the for real cheapest option is a old shoebox and wrap each individual model in a couple of layers of 3-play toilet paper. Unless it’s heavy or metal models, in which case it still works, but you have to be really careful. Revelation 2-13 fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Sep 13, 2020 |
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Sep 13, 2020 15:17
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I picked a bunch of dirt cheap parts sorters from Harbor Freight. Each mini gets its own spot, keeps them from banging in to each other. Bigger models don’t fit buts it’s great for all the miscellaneous monster minis for D&D games.
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Sep 13, 2020 15:39
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I am pretty happy with my take on the Canoptek Reanimator.   
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Sep 13, 2020 18:35
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Tried some more oil pin washing on some Legion Clone Troopers, and after like 10 minutes, it looks like I never touched them. Either I thinned down my oil paint way too much, or I just have crap paint. I'm leaning towards over thinning I think.
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Sep 13, 2020 19:29
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I said come in! posted:I am pretty happy with my take on the Canoptek Reanimator. Bucktooth Reanimator has some strong Goof Troop energy and I love it.
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Sep 13, 2020 19:56
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Funzo posted:Tried some more oil pin washing on some Legion Clone Troopers, and after like 10 minutes, it looks like I never touched them. Either I thinned down my oil paint way too much, or I just have crap paint. I'm leaning towards over thinning I think. yeah it could be either of those things. Also make sure to stir your oil wash every so often. In my experience the pigment tends to settle really quickly; which could be contributing to your issue
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Sep 13, 2020 20:38
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I finished up the Judiciar earlier today!
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Sep 13, 2020 21:47
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R0ckfish posted:Tallboi done! What's your recipe for the brown on the "shell"?
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Sep 13, 2020 22:06
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just got superglue everywhere by squeezing a blocked tube until the blockage popped, and half the glue in the tube came with it. just spent a half hour scrubbing and peeling my hands. please tell me I'm not the only dingus who's ever done this 
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Sep 13, 2020 22:10
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Two Beans posted:What's your recipe for the brown on the "shell"? Mournfang -> wyldwood -> skrag -> tau light ochre -> flayed one flesh!
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Sep 13, 2020 22:12
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I finished a Champion and 2 fighters for my Deathguard Kill Team.       
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Sep 13, 2020 22:14
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jesus WEP posted:just got superglue everywhere by squeezing a blocked tube until the blockage popped, and half the glue in the tube came with it. just spent a half hour scrubbing and peeling my hands. What kind of bottle are you using? This always happens to me with the metal tubes and I hate them so I just use the plastic bottles.
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Sep 13, 2020 22:15
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jesus WEP posted:just got superglue everywhere by squeezing a blocked tube until the blockage popped, and half the glue in the tube came with it. just spent a half hour scrubbing and peeling my hands. Use a sharp skewer to clear blockages like an musketeer cleaning out their gun barrel.
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Sep 13, 2020 22:21
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Working through my dragons. The Pathfinder Nightmare Dragon does not come off the base/spell effect the way all the other Nolzur/Deep Cuts dragons do. Its going to be such a pain getting a brush in there. 
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Sep 13, 2020 22:21
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Spanish Manlove posted:What kind of bottle are you using? This always happens to me with the metal tubes and I hate them so I just use the plastic bottles.
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Sep 13, 2020 22:22
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jesus WEP posted:yeah it was a little metal tube of loctite The little metal tubes are the worst, I hate them so much. Also acetone cleans up super glue pretty fast. It's not good for your skin but it works in an emergency like that.
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Sep 13, 2020 22:33
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I finished a thing. Full album, with WIPs near the end.
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Sep 13, 2020 23:33
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So I finally got around to trying out the Patriot 105. It went pretty poorly. I had trouble trying to figure out how to get the compressor to 20 PSI, but eventually I got it figured out. I loaded in some Stylnelrez black primer to test on a piece of scrap plastic, and it was all downhill from there. I had what I think was speckling at first, but then the cup ran out of primer. I had to go back and add more drops to continue, but I didn't get the whole thing primed, and I had one big splotch that wasn't drying, sO i just wiped it off. I tried using some actual paints next (Macragge Blue and VGC Gunmetal) with paint thinner, but I was doing something wrong, because it would get all splotchy. I think maybe I thinned it too much (I put like 3-4 drops of thinner in, then added the paint). I can't tell, but I think there may be something wrong with the brush, because even when I just press down on the brush to release air, paint would sometimes come out without me pulling back the lever. I don't know if it's because there's something wrong with the needle, or if something needs to be adjusted. Add to that a headache from smoke in the air, and having to deal with a bee buzzing around the compressor. I'll try and give it another shot next weekend, but right now, I feel like I screwed up majorly by going down this path. 
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Sep 13, 2020 23:37
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You'll get there. It takes a bit of messing around. If the paint was coming out with no lever movement it could just be stuff left on the end from your previous attempt. Moving your brush away to engage the air before moving it back over the model is a good habit to get into because of this.
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Sep 13, 2020 23:44
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paint coming out without pulling back the trigger = your needle isn't far enough forward to seal the nozzle properly. loosen the nut at the back of the brush until you can move the needle freely by hand, push the needle fully forward, and re-tighten the nut.
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Sep 13, 2020 23:45
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Oh yeah that too, I assumed correct assembly
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Sep 13, 2020 23:56
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I tried zenithal highlighting for the first time. It came out ok but I don't think I did it right
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Sep 14, 2020 00:11
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Phi230 posted:I tried zenithal highlighting for the first time. It came out ok but I don't think I did it right I've been trying zenithal with my Ironstar set, and I don't think it really does much 
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Sep 14, 2020 00:36
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Iron Crowned posted:I've been trying zenithal with my Ironstar set, and I don't think it really does much If you're not working with glazes you're not really going to get a ton out of it, but I like it for showing me the volumes of a model before I get to work on it
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Sep 14, 2020 00:50
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Max Wilco posted:So I finally got around to trying out the Patriot 105. That does sound odd. The black primer was an airbrush formula ? If it was, you might want to strip the brush and reassemble. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtYOHI3865c
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Sep 14, 2020 00:50
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| # ? May 17, 2024 19:55 |
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Max Wilco posted:
Are you 100% sure the needle is all the way forward? Unscrew it, then push it all the way forward, then tighten again. The exact same thing has happened to me and that's what was going on.
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Sep 14, 2020 01:14
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