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Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

by Fluffdaddy

McSpergin posted:

My belt grinder arrives tomorroowwwwwwww

Ordered late July, but on backorder due to unprecedented demand (also they're the same brand that Alec Steele is selling). Coming with a 1.1kw motor, VFD from a seperate supplier. Need to order some belts though

:hfive:
Do you have a specific purpose in mind for it? I got one recently and I have found it immensely useful for shaping chess pieces. I'd say its equally as important as my lathe now.

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tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


I. M. Gei posted:

I don’t have a ton of cash to work with, so I can only really afford the 2.0 Ah battery that comes with the sprayer. I could afford to grab another battery if I was buying a smaller sprayer, but the 4-gallon Ryobi is the only battery sprayer my local Home Depot has in stock that comes with a battery and is within my price range. I’d prefer not to have to wait on shipping for something smaller, since I can’t really put off spraying my trees any longer than I already have.

why not just use an $8 1 gallon pump sprayer? sure pumping sucks but I use one to spray bug spray outside my house because gently caress paying 8 bux for the lovely wand that comes with home defense max.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EwaGcPmtTsQ
This was nice.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

tater_salad posted:

why not just use an $8 1 gallon pump sprayer? sure pumping sucks but I use one to spray bug spray outside my house because gently caress paying 8 bux for the lovely wand that comes with home defense max.

And if that's not enough, I just got a Chapin backpack pump sprayer, it's practically no effort to keep it pumped up. It's a lot more budget friendly at $53, than the battery powered models.

It does have a lot more reach, and volume in the sprayer than a handheld bottle.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

angryrobots posted:

And if that's not enough, I just got a Chapin backpack pump sprayer, it's practically no effort to keep it pumped up. It's a lot more budget friendly at $53, than the battery powered models.

It does have a lot more reach, and volume in the sprayer than a handheld bottle.

Yeah, I've got multiples of those backpacks as well as hand pump sprayers (I do my best to not mix things too much). What do the battery sprayers offer that the pump or backpack ones don't? I've got a hand wand on my spray cart, and admittedly that things puts out a LOT of volume, but I doubt these battery hand sprayers have a pump as big as a spray cart.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



NomNomNom posted:

FWIW I have the one gallon sprayer and use a 1.5ah battery with it, have always run out of fluid before the battery dies. I don't think the little motor takes that much juice.

Who makes that, Ryobi also? I'm getting really interested in these sprayers.

This guy demo's the little one, 1 gallon https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=db266yJyIXQ which is maybe okay for spraying solid surfaces, but it has way lower pressure and I wouldn't like it on trees or other plants.

This guy demo's the big one, as soon as he takes the 2aH battery out, sets it aside and says he's gonna use a bigger one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xdES8t4S8pM
But, it's a serious sprayer, higher pressure so the material is more atomized. I like this sprayer from what I see here. You can use the 2 amp battery, but like cakesmithhandyman says, you'll have some breaks while it recharges if you're doing 20 trees.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Yeah I have the Ryobi, model p2800. It works great for spraying anti mosquito juice all around my yard.

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



tater_salad posted:

why not just use an $8 1 gallon pump sprayer? sure pumping sucks but I use one to spray bug spray outside my house because gently caress paying 8 bux for the lovely wand that comes with home defense max.

I have a pump sprayer that I use to spray weed killer, and it’s fine for that, but based on my past experience, the amount of pumping I would need to do to spray these trees would wreck my arms.

I’m not just spraying 20 trees. I’m spraying 20 trees with 3 or 4 different chemicals each (an immunity booster, liquid copper fungicide, neem oil, and possibly a “revitalizer”), at least one of which I will need to reapply every 7 to 14 days. So I’m really spraying more like 80 trees... once every week or two.


EDIT: Cue a garden goon telling me this is way too loving much spray in 5... 4... 3... 2...

I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Sep 11, 2020

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Copper is legit and prudent for many trees in many climates.

Be careful with neem oil. It has its uses, but apply it injudiciously and it can defoliate trees. I’m not saying don’t use it, but the cure can be worse than the disease. Apply it to one branch per species and watch that for a week before spraying everything.

“Immunity booster” and “revitalizer” might be foliar fertilisers? Foliar fertilisers work, and a regimen of them will involve a lot of spraying.

McSpergin
Sep 10, 2013

Rutibex posted:

:hfive:
Do you have a specific purpose in mind for it? I got one recently and I have found it immensely useful for shaping chess pieces. I'd say its equally as important as my lathe now.

Predominantly knife making but I'm sure I can find some other uses for it. I got an old axe of my grandfather's that I want to restore with a really nice handle as well as some furniture to make



84 Engineering Shop-Mate 48, 2x48. Waiting for the motor (1.1kw/1.5hp) and VFD to show up as well as the cable for it all and then I'll have to go get some belts!

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



I. M. Gei posted:

I have a pump sprayer that I use to spray weed killer, and it’s fine for that, but based on my past experience, the amount of pumping I would need to do to spray these trees would wreck my arms.

I’m not just spraying 20 trees. I’m spraying 20 trees with 3 or 4 different chemicals each (an immunity booster, liquid copper fungicide, neem oil, and possibly a “revitalizer”), at least one of which I will need to reapply every 7 to 14 days. So I’m really spraying more like 80 trees... once every week or two.


EDIT: Cue a garden goon telling me this is way too loving much spray in 5... 4... 3... 2...

I noodled around a bit yesterday and found this 1 gallon sprayer by Kobalt, https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Kobalt-24V-Chemical-Sprayer-Kit/1002981480 which looks to be better build quality than the Ryobi and fits my needs, but it really sounds like you need something in the 4 gallon range.

I went back today to check the PSI rating on the Kobalt, because the 1 gal Ryobi is around 45 - 48, and Lowe's no longer carry it! :wtf:

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.

McSpergin posted:

84 Engineering Shop-Mate 48, 2x48. Waiting for the motor (1.1kw/1.5hp) and VFD to show up as well as the cable for it all and then I'll have to go get some belts!

What's the $$ damage, all in?

One day I'd like to have access to a grinder again :sigh:

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid
Not sure if this is the right place for Ladderchat, but we have vaulted ceilings and I need to replace a ceiling fan. The fan box/downrod mount is about 15' up and the tallest ladder I have right now is a 6ft step ladder and a ~20ft extension ladder. I don't think the extension ladder is an option.

Renting a ladder would be a hassle as I'd be moving it around in a Minivan. Should I just bite the bullet and drop $370 on a ladder? I'd use it a few times a year as the 6ft ladder is a foot or two too short to safely get things on top of my closet. I mean I still do it with that 6 ft ladder, but I really shouldn't.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/WERNER-12-ft-Fiberglass-Twin-Step-Ladder-with-375-lb-Load-Capacity-Type-IAA-Duty-Rating-T7412/203134371

Edit: I guess I'm asking what my alternatives are? I'm looking at 375lb rated ladders. Probably just going to get that one.

Bondematt fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Sep 12, 2020

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Bondematt posted:

Not sure if this is the right place for Ladderchat, but we have vaulted ceilings and I need to replace a ceiling fan. The fan box/downrod mount is about 15' up and the tallest ladder I have right now is a 6ft step ladder and a ~20ft extension ladder. I don't think the extension ladder is an option.

Renting a ladder would be a hassle as I'd be moving it around in a Minivan. Should I just bite the bullet and drop $370 on a ladder? I'd use it a few times a year as the 6ft ladder is a foot or two too short to safely get things on top of my closet. I mean I still do it with that 6 ft ladder, but I really shouldn't.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/WERNER-12-ft-Fiberglass-Twin-Step-Ladder-with-375-lb-Load-Capacity-Type-IAA-Duty-Rating-T7412/203134371

Edit: I guess I'm asking what my alternatives are? I'm looking at 375lb rated ladders. Probably just going to get that one.

Borrow or rent a ladder or scaffolding?

McSpergin
Sep 10, 2013

Trabant posted:

What's the $$ damage, all in?

One day I'd like to have access to a grinder again :sigh:

All in?

Grinder body was about $950
Motor $230
VFD $250
Stand was about $300 (height adjustable with a significant range of height it can adjust)
Cabling and mount for the VFD was another $20
And I'll need to get an extension lead I can cut an end off to wire up the VFD for mains power
So all up just a touch under $1800 AUD. They're great grinders, a lot of local blokes here use them and they came recommended from a guy I know at a blacksmith forge near Canberra, they only use these ones.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

sharkytm posted:

Borrow or rent a ladder or scaffolding?

Oooh rental scaffolding might be a good idea. I'm pretty comfortable on a tall ladder, but man does that sounds more stable.

No one I know seems to have a stepladder bigger than 8ft, which makes sense since I think we're the only ones with the weird rear end 70s vaulted ceilings.

Who needs a large attic when we can have all this extra air to heat/cool?!

I think if I go with a ladder I'll buy it, since I've needed them a few times now and getting it to/from home depot kinda sucks.

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it

sharkytm posted:

Borrow or rent a ladder or scaffolding?

My dad borrowed my 8ft ladder. Had it for over 6 months and last time I was there he had bought hooks and had it mounted on the wall in the garage. I am never getting that ladder back :(

Bondematt posted:

Oooh rental scaffolding might be a good idea. I'm pretty comfortable on a tall ladder, but man does that sounds more stable.

No one I know seems to have a stepladder bigger than 8ft, which makes sense since I think we're the only ones with the weird rear end 70s vaulted ceilings.

Who needs a large attic when we can have all this extra air to heat/cool?!

I think if I go with a ladder I'll buy it, since I've needed them a few times now and getting it to/from home depot kinda sucks.

what up Fox and Jacobs 70's vaulted ceiling buddy. Does your's have the fake wood beams?

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.

McSpergin posted:

All in?

Grinder body was about $950
Motor $230
VFD $250
Stand was about $300 (height adjustable with a significant range of height it can adjust)
Cabling and mount for the VFD was another $20
And I'll need to get an extension lead I can cut an end off to wire up the VFD for mains power
So all up just a touch under $1800 AUD. They're great grinders, a lot of local blokes here use them and they came recommended from a guy I know at a blacksmith forge near Canberra, they only use these ones.

Thanks -- missed that you were in Australia, but it's probably about the best (or better) than I can hope to pay in the US too, e.g.

Grind things in good health!

Numinous
May 20, 2001

College Slice

This didn't get enough love. That guy just changed my life for the better.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

JEEVES420 posted:

Does your's have the fake wood beams?

It sure does, and the ones in the bedrooms have all been painted that same color as the walls.

Also the kitchen, family room, and living room all have wood ceilings. Why was this a thing?

I took a few pics of the weirdness. https://imgur.com/a/vPUBfYV

I will die by that mirror someday.

McSpergin
Sep 10, 2013

Trabant posted:

Thanks -- missed that you were in Australia, but it's probably about the best (or better) than I can hope to pay in the US too, e.g.

Grind things in good health!

Nice.

this one is the same grinder but rebadged essentially by Alec Steele, and comes prewired and ready to go with a VFD. The pricing he has there is actually better than our price here possibly due to different branded motors or VFD's or something. The same one here with a stand is about $2600 but because I can get the wiring done through work I ordered bits separate and saved myself about $700 :D

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Bondematt posted:

Oooh rental scaffolding might be a good idea. I'm pretty comfortable on a tall ladder, but man does that sounds more stable.

No one I know seems to have a stepladder bigger than 8ft, which makes sense since I think we're the only ones with the weird rear end 70s vaulted ceilings.

Who needs a large attic when we can have all this extra air to heat/cool?!

I think if I go with a ladder I'll buy it, since I've needed them a few times now and getting it to/from home depot kinda sucks.

mm so I have 4m vaulted ceilings in my bedroom and 6.5m in the entryway, and faced a similar issue.

I have this ladder:
https://www.diy.com/departments/mac-allister-double-3-way-27-tread-combination-ladder/3663602773870_BQ.prd
which reaches 5.4m (18ft) fully extended straight, but I use it at that height sparingly. Similarly its fully extended stepladder mode gets you around 4.25m (14ft) and I have used it like that exactly once to work on a skylight in the vaulted bedroom. Not super keen.

What I did instead was buy this tower
https://www.midlandladders.com/zarg...ht-mobile-tower
which is 10x the price of the ladder, but gets me all the way up to the 6.5m ceiling in a fairly stable way that you can walk around on. Towers are like self-contained pieces of mobile scaffolding. You can rent them.

I used that tower when painting my bedroom ceiling, and the painters used it when doing the entryway ceiling, and it did the job well. I still use it for bits and pieces where I need to work laterally at height (avoids a lot of up and down on the ladder) or where I can't lean a ladder against the wall for whatever reason.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Bondematt posted:

Oooh rental scaffolding might be a good idea. I'm pretty comfortable on a tall ladder, but man does that sounds more stable.

No one I know seems to have a stepladder bigger than 8ft, which makes sense since I think we're the only ones with the weird rear end 70s vaulted ceilings.

Who needs a large attic when we can have all this extra air to heat/cool?!

I think if I go with a ladder I'll buy it, since I've needed them a few times now and getting it to/from home depot kinda sucks.

You need to be on a scaffold. Have you ever hosed with a ceiling fan? You need 3 hands as it is for that, and don't need to be worrying about falling while your hands are occupied.

mcgreenvegtables
Nov 2, 2004
Yum!
Can we talk about sanders? I recently got a Ryobi 18v random orbital sander and cannot believe I haven't had one of these before. Probably my favorite thing about it is how effective hooking up a vacuum is at lowering dust. Now I want to get a detail sander and the cordless ryobi doesn't have a vac attachment. So now I'm in the market for a good corded detail sander (cat, mouse, etc) that has a vac port. Any recommendations?

Also, a good brand for sandpaper for these and my 5" random orbital? And is there a good hose/adapter kit to make attaching these to my shop vac more reliable?

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


mcgreenvegtables posted:

Also, a good brand for sandpaper for these and my 5" random orbital? And is there a good hose/adapter kit to make attaching these to my shop vac more reliable?

mirka autonet. I think other brands do mesh pads now also, but they're great for not clogging and even better dust extraction.

Humbug
Dec 3, 2006
Bogus

mcgreenvegtables posted:

Can we talk about sanders? I recently got a Ryobi 18v random orbital sander and cannot believe I haven't had one of these before. Probably my favorite thing about it is how effective hooking up a vacuum is at lowering dust. Now I want to get a detail sander and the cordless ryobi doesn't have a vac attachment. So now I'm in the market for a good corded detail sander (cat, mouse, etc) that has a vac port. Any recommendations?

Also, a good brand for sandpaper for these and my 5" random orbital? And is there a good hose/adapter kit to make attaching these to my shop vac more reliable?

My 18V Ryobi delta sander had a dust extraction attachment with it in the box? It doesn't work nearly as well as on a delta sander, but its better than nothing.

The black part on the bottom. There is a small rubber flap covering the port when not in use. I might be misundertanding what you mean by detail sander, or it might be different for the US.

Catatron Prime
Aug 23, 2010

IT ME



Toilet Rascal

mcgreenvegtables posted:

Can we talk about sanders?

The previous owner of my house had a dog that would get excited and scratch at the front door, which left it all dinged up for when I moved in. I ripped out and replaced the back door wholesale, but I wanted to save the front since it was the original 120 year old door. Since it’s solid wood, I figured I could just sand out the scratches and claw marks, easy peasy.

So, I grabbed my random orbit, and went to town under the window, then down below the handle, above the handle, and cleaned up a few scratches on the side.

When I stepped back to admire my handiwork, I realized something...



I’d just sanded a giant dick into my front door

Elysium
Aug 21, 2003
It is by will alone I set my mind in motion.
I bought a bunch of 3m Cubitron II discs. They are expensive as gently caress but I watched a head to head comparison video that showed that, since they last a lot longer and remove more material, per gram removed they are actually cheaper than discount brands. You can just use one disc where you would go through 3-4 lovely ones on the same project.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

OSU_Matthew posted:

The previous owner of my house had a dog that would get excited and scratch at the front door, which left it all dinged up for when I moved in. I ripped out and replaced the back door wholesale, but I wanted to save the front since it was the original 120 year old door. Since it’s solid wood, I figured I could just sand out the scratches and claw marks, easy peasy.

So, I grabbed my random orbit, and went to town under the window, then down below the handle, above the handle, and cleaned up a few scratches on the side.

When I stepped back to admire my handiwork, I realized something...



I’d just sanded a giant dick into my front door

If you have indentations from the clawing and it's an actual solid wood door, rather than sanding them down, you can use a hot iron and a wet rag to fix it. Steam will expand the wood fibers which will pull the wood out and bring it back to a normal level. It might mess with the finish but if you're refinishing anyway it doesn't matter.

https://youtu.be/c75LWAmWeBQ

thatguy
Feb 5, 2003
Has anybody used either a dry or wet concrete saw or a concrete chainsaw?
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/concrete-cutters/professional-concrete-cutters/gs461/
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/cut-off-machines/professional-cut-off-machines//ts800/?rev=BVSpotlights
https://www.husqvarnacp.com/us/machines/power-cutters/k-770-dry-cut/967942001/

I run a business that does trail construction and maintenance and we do a lot of rock work, although it's usually not precision work. A new client is going to be demanding a lot of rock shaping, and due to situations out of my control it's likely the only water access we'll have is water we hike in for a couple miles. I'm just trying to judge how well these saws, especially the dry cut saw will work vs hammer drill and feathering breaks in fieldstone vs using any of the concrete saws.

Stones will not be uniform in size, they'll range significantly so I mean clearly I'll end up using it only some of the time.

mcgreenvegtables
Nov 2, 2004
Yum!

Humbug posted:

My 18V Ryobi delta sander had a dust extraction attachment with it in the box? It doesn't work nearly as well as on a delta sander, but its better than nothing.

The black part on the bottom. There is a small rubber flap covering the port when not in use. I might be misundertanding what you mean by detail sander, or it might be different for the US.



Oops! Thats the one I was looking at, but I missed the dust extractor attachment. Looks like if I get this one I'll have to get a smaller diameter hose too, I could fit an adapter to my 1.5" shop vac hose but seems like it would be unwieldy to hold without the large hose falling off.

~Coxy
Dec 9, 2003

R.I.P. Inter-OS Sass - b.2000AD d.2003AD

Mr. Mambold posted:

You need to be on a scaffold. Have you ever hosed with a ceiling fan? You need 3 hands as it is for that, and don't need to be worrying about falling while your hands are occupied.

I replaced the capacitor on a ceiling fan and it sucks. Even with two people on a mostly-normal ceiling height it was a huge pain in the rear end and frankly I'm amazed we didn't drop it.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



~Coxy posted:

I replaced the capacitor on a ceiling fan and it sucks. Even with two people on a mostly-normal ceiling height it was a huge pain in the rear end and frankly I'm amazed we didn't drop it.

For the fan, right? Would the lights have a capacitor, and if so, why?

Catatron Prime
Aug 23, 2010

IT ME



Toilet Rascal

Verman posted:

If you have indentations from the clawing and it's an actual solid wood door, rather than sanding them down, you can use a hot iron and a wet rag to fix it. Steam will expand the wood fibers which will pull the wood out and bring it back to a normal level. It might mess with the finish but if you're refinishing anyway it doesn't matter.

https://youtu.be/c75LWAmWeBQ

:aaaaa:

This was fivish years ago, but if I recall correctly I did try a steam cleaner to not much effect and the door was pretty deeply gouged anyways. The towel and hot iron seems like a much better method... I’ll have to remember that!

McSpergin
Sep 10, 2013

Humbug posted:

My 18V Ryobi delta sander had a dust extraction attachment with it in the box? It doesn't work nearly as well as on a delta sander, but its better than nothing.

The black part on the bottom. There is a small rubber flap covering the port when not in use. I might be misundertanding what you mean by detail sander, or it might be different for the US.



I have one of these and it didn't come with the attachment (or I missed it or have a different model of the same one) in Australia. But I rarely use it, the orbital does 99% of my sanding and this is for stuff the orbital can't reach so it's not really critical

~Coxy
Dec 9, 2003

R.I.P. Inter-OS Sass - b.2000AD d.2003AD

Mr. Mambold posted:

For the fan, right? Would the lights have a capacitor, and if so, why?

Yeah it's for the fan. I don't actually understand what it's doing but if your fan is running really slowly then the cap needs replacing.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
IIRC, the capacitor is used to help start the motor on the fan with single phase current. Typically you need 2 phases to start a motor reliably as it can induce rotation from the delay in the different phases of magnetism and force the motor to spin. With single phase, it's a simple on/off magnetic pulse along the center axis. The capacitor redirects a tiny bit of the electricity with a little bit of a delay to sort of create a fake second phase. Once the motor gets going the single phase is fine to keep it going.

This is also why almost all fans go from Off to High, then down to Low. It's so that you have the most energy possible to start the fan spinning.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

thatguy posted:

Has anybody used either a dry or wet concrete saw or a concrete chainsaw?
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/concrete-cutters/professional-concrete-cutters/gs461/
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/cut-off-machines/professional-cut-off-machines//ts800/?rev=BVSpotlights
https://www.husqvarnacp.com/us/machines/power-cutters/k-770-dry-cut/967942001/

I run a business that does trail construction and maintenance and we do a lot of rock work, although it's usually not precision work. A new client is going to be demanding a lot of rock shaping, and due to situations out of my control it's likely the only water access we'll have is water we hike in for a couple miles. I'm just trying to judge how well these saws, especially the dry cut saw will work vs hammer drill and feathering breaks in fieldstone vs using any of the concrete saws.

Stones will not be uniform in size, they'll range significantly so I mean clearly I'll end up using it only some of the time.

Never used one myself but on Cody's Lab he took a water using chainsaw out to the middle of nowhere for his mars base experiment and used a a drum of water placed uphill to keep it going. I'm linking the video in the first spot he put the barrel. He then had to take it higher to get more water pressure. It seemed to cut the stone he was working on well, examples of cutting begin around 10:45 in the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXWkMZ0VtUw&t=416s

Since that required both a lot of water and water pressure, it's probably not ideal. There are a good amount of youtube videos of folks using the dry cut concrete saws and also diamond blades in regular circular saws that can cut dry (but kick up a lot more dust). If nobody pops up with more experience it might be worth looking at some videos and seeing if they seem right for your application. There aren't a lot of gas powered circular saws but the battery powered stuff is getting good these days, although depending on how much cutting you have to do in a day it might be prohibitive to bring in batteries for it all versus a generator or just a gas powered big saw. If the work is small there's also diamond blades for angle grinders.

Here's a guy with a skil saw and a diamond blade:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ppF_1hNvH0

guy with a big saw dry cutting in his driveway:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdLt3YZawmY

So dry cutting looks capable but you definitely need good breathing protection and probably some goggles.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Rexxed posted:

guy with a big saw dry cutting in his driveway:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdLt3YZawmY

So dry cutting looks capable but you definitely need good breathing protection and probably some goggles.

This is what the builders at my place used to cut dense concrete block, though I've not used one myself. They're very loud and very messy and like all circular saws are mostly for cutting in (mostly) straight lines, but they're fairly quick. I guess it depends what sort of rock shaping we're talking about?

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Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

by Fluffdaddy

Jaded Burnout posted:

I guess it depends what sort of rock shaping we're talking about?

If you want to do fancier rock stuff there is always a portable angle grinder:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjkDScgFLEA

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