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My wife got me a tervis with a lid and a straw so I have been coached appropriately.
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Sep 14, 2020 16:11
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jesus WEP posted:I eventually solved the plastic cement problem by throwing away my citadel bottle and replacing with tamiya extra thin This is the real pro move. Both types of extra thin, never need another plastic glue.
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Sep 14, 2020 16:17
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Speaking of Citadel paints, how the gently caress are those pots supposed to work? Does the little tab go under the lid? It keeps the lid open that way, but then there's a weird "gap" when it's closed. If the little tab stays outside the lid, the lid doesn't stay open well and always closes when i'm trying to dip my brush in
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Sep 14, 2020 16:18
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Cooked Auto posted:One reason I use glass jars specifically and never gone with mugs. When I was building up my supplies again, I literally went and bought a brand new mug at Walmart for $2, so that I could let the paint just build up
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Sep 14, 2020 16:29
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I definitely want to try that 'right-out-of-the-forge' look on a blade sometime. I might even try it on the Judiciar, since the drat blade is so friggin huge
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Sep 14, 2020 16:53
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Azerban posted:For clogs in Citadel glue I usually just flip the metal piece upside down in the bottle and let it sit for a couple minutes, I've never had to use fire... This is a great life hack, thanks.
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Sep 14, 2020 16:56
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:Speaking of Citadel paints, how the gently caress are those pots supposed to work? Realtalk: It was designed by assholes whose main brief was "Can we design a pot that will dry paint out even with the lid closed, while also being strictly inferior to every previous pot the company has ever used in every way?". After the revolution there will be a reckoning.
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Sep 14, 2020 16:59
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It's a pain in the rear end but you gotta put the tab in when you wanna keep the lid up and then take the tab back out when you want it to close effectively. e: you can also sometimes get the cap to sit vertically on top of the tiny lip but its pretty dicey
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Sep 14, 2020 17:06
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:Speaking of Citadel paints, how the gently caress are those pots supposed to work? Don’t think about it too hard. Games Workshop certainly didn’t
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Sep 14, 2020 18:10
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I've often wanted to cut that little nub off - has anyone had luck with that?
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Sep 14, 2020 18:11
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I hate pots without it because I have to remember to open it back up again whenever I need to get paint. So in a way I prefer it as a way to rest the lid on and not have to worry about it closing on me. Don't think I've ever folded it in front of the lid though and just rest it the slight lip it has at the front.
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Sep 14, 2020 18:21
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transferring my GW paints to dropper bottles was a revelation
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Sep 14, 2020 18:26
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For amount of time, energy and money it would take to transfer the paint into droppers you might as well just get Vallejo or Army Painter.
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Sep 14, 2020 18:28
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Sometimes I use the paint stuck in the citadel lid after a shake. Heresy?
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Sep 14, 2020 18:38
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MRLOLAST posted:Sometimes I use the paint stuck in the citadel lid after a shake. Heresy?
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Sep 14, 2020 18:39
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jesus WEP posted:First time doing a power sword. Trying to work out likelihood of loving up an edge highlight vs how much it will add to the final look of it. This is for the actual edge of the sword, there’s no way I have the skill to put one on the two ridges running up the face Paint the lines, yes you will gently caress it up and need to go in and clean it up. There is no way to get better at things without practice.
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Sep 14, 2020 18:43
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Quick question: For a shittily painted model, should I just re-spray it and start over, or strip it first?
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Sep 14, 2020 19:04
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inscrutable horse posted:Quick question: For a shittily painted model, should I just re-spray it and start over, or strip it first? Strip it.
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Sep 14, 2020 19:05
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inscrutable horse posted:Quick question: For a shittily painted model, should I just re-spray it and start over, or strip it first? How thick is the lovely paint job, and how much bother do you want to get to?
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Sep 14, 2020 19:05
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inscrutable horse posted:Quick question: For a shittily painted model, should I just re-spray it and start over, or strip it first?
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Sep 14, 2020 19:13
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inscrutable horse posted:Quick question: For a shittily painted model, should I just re-spray it and start over, or strip it first? If the paint isnt gobbed on, you can just paint on top of it. The only time if I strip is if there is gobs of paint or a lovely primer job.
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Sep 14, 2020 19:18
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inscrutable horse posted:Quick question: For a shittily painted model, should I just re-spray it and start over, or strip it first? Too lovely to use as a basecoat and work up from? Then strip it. I do have a couple of figures that I bought shittily painted that I could paint on top of (they'd basically been sprayed black, then sloppy barbarian flesh looking skin tone, a block of colour for hair, gunmetal and blood red on the swords and I think very dark brown on belts and boots. It was thin enough that I could paint over without losing any real detail and being zombies I could work over the skin into something that looked reasonable) but the vast majority of "pro painted" ebay rescues have paint far too thick to think about doing that.
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Sep 14, 2020 19:18
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SiKboy posted:Realtalk: It was designed by assholes whose main brief was "Can we design a pot that will dry paint out even with the lid closed, while also being strictly inferior to every previous pot the company has ever used in every way?". After the revolution there will be a reckoning. Obviously you've never used the screw-top bolter shell jars from the early 2000s, where you could wind up with a useless jar of paint right off of the goddamn store shelf because it dried up in transit. The newer jars are just slightly altered versions of the old Foundation ones.
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Sep 14, 2020 19:31
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Superglue plus cotton wool plus fingers is a bad time.
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Sep 14, 2020 19:38
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Everyone posted:How thick is the previous paintjob? Not very thick at all. All details are still obvious, it's just one of my earliest models (armiger knight from 40K), and it doesn't look even remotely like its fellows. So if I read the replies right, my plan should be 1) Slap on a coat of grey, and take it from there. If that isn't succesful, then 2) Spray the bastard. And in case that ruins everything, 3) Strip it.
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Sep 14, 2020 19:45
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SiKboy posted:Too lovely to use as a basecoat and work up from? Then strip it. I do have a couple of figures that I bought shittily painted that I could paint on top of (they'd basically been sprayed black, then sloppy barbarian flesh looking skin tone, a block of colour for hair, gunmetal and blood red on the swords and I think very dark brown on belts and boots. It was thin enough that I could paint over without losing any real detail and being zombies I could work over the skin into something that looked reasonable) but the vast majority of "pro painted" ebay rescues have paint far too thick to think about doing that. I kept some pliers at my painting desk just to get those drat things open. So many pots with chewed up tops from that.
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Sep 14, 2020 19:54
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MRLOLAST posted:Sometimes I use the paint stuck in the citadel lid after a shake. Heresy? This is The Way.
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Sep 14, 2020 20:10
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Do you mean the little scoop shaped thing in the middle or like the inevitable buildup near the hinge?
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Sep 14, 2020 20:13
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I'm sure that's what that scoop thing is for.
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Sep 14, 2020 20:31
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The first time all my citadel paints dried out I just said gently caress it and switched to vallejo.
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Sep 14, 2020 20:36
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Phi230 posted:The first time all my citadel paints dried out I just said gently caress it and switched to vallejo. Which metal color of theirs is roughly equivalent to leadbelcher?
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Sep 14, 2020 20:37
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Silhouette posted:Obviously you've never used the screw-top bolter shell jars from the early 2000s, where you could wind up with a useless jar of paint right off of the goddamn store shelf because it dried up in transit. You know what, you are actually right! That would be about when I dropped out of the hobby, and by the time I came back in GW were on their current bullshit. I will give their current bullshit this and little more; At least they seem to be reliably airtight until they have been opened for the first time, at which point all bets are off. inscrutable horse posted:Not very thick at all. All details are still obvious, it's just one of my earliest models (armiger knight from 40K), and it doesn't look even remotely like its fellows. So if I read the replies right, my plan should be Do you need to put a coat of grey on? I'm not sure how thats better than option 2 tbh. I'd say its more of a flow chart: If you can use what you have as a base coat, then do that. If you cant do that (because for example its currently dark blue and you want it to be yellow) then spray it with your undercoat (or basecoat as its already undercoated) colour of choice and work from there. If that doesnt work out, then strip it. Unless you are going to airbrush or spray on the grey in step 1 in which case I'm not sure what step 2 is.
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Sep 14, 2020 20:42
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Spanish Manlove posted:Which metal color of theirs is roughly equivalent to leadbelcher? Gunmetal/Gun metal grey or Oily Steel if you want a similar shade of metal with a slightly brighter tone
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Sep 14, 2020 20:46
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x-post from the new 40k thread:Verisimilidude posted:My quarantine project for the past ~month
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Sep 14, 2020 21:55
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Those are some beautiful greenskins, man. How'd you do the bases? I can't settle on a style for my Death Guard but those look nice
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Sep 14, 2020 22:09
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Sab669 posted:Those are some beautiful greenskins, man. The base is Golden brand Crackle Paste. I paint the top of the base with some primer, and when it's dry apply a thick layer of the paste and add any bits and extras like skulls and such. Then I painted the terrain with Golden brand red oxide paint, washed with agrax earthshade, and dry brushed with red oxide and a final drybrush of red oxide mixed with a bright orange paint.
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Sep 14, 2020 22:13
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Sometimes it feels like I have painted the same bolter for the last 20 years.. and I have exactly the same design for them , I know what should be metal and I know what should be color.
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Sep 14, 2020 22:16
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My old red kobold, my new red kobolds, and my red dragon cultist for scale. I know the candles have to be a WOW reference but I'll use any opportunity to do a little more sourced lighting. 
PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Sep 14, 2020 |
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Sep 14, 2020 23:23
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MRLOLAST posted:Sometimes it feels like I have painted the same bolter for the last 20 years.. and I have exactly the same design for them , I know what should be metal and I know what should be color. You're only a little off, the current boltgun design came out 22 years ago in 1998 with 40k 3rd edition 
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Sep 15, 2020 05:29
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The Primaris boltgun is a bit different than the old design, but not very much, it still maintains a lot of the core design.
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Sep 15, 2020 06:43
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