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What is the deal with the big push to french doors on fridges, do people like them? I guess in a more cramped kitchen they don't swing out as far but it seems to be more needlessly complex to get a good seal.. Took me a while to find one that was a regular door on top with a drawer freezer below, ended up with a costco Maytag.
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Sep 8, 2020 23:20
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priznat posted:What is the deal with the big push to french doors on fridges, do people like them? I guess in a more cramped kitchen they don't swing out as far but it seems to be more needlessly complex to get a good seal.. Wait, your problem were the top doors and not the crime against humanity that is a drawer freezer?
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Sep 8, 2020 23:27
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priznat posted:What is the deal with the big push to french doors on fridges, do people like them? I guess in a more cramped kitchen they don't swing out as far but it seems to be more needlessly complex to get a good seal.. Yes, they're much easier to use and can fit in more spaces. They also let less cold air out if you put your most frequently used items on a single door side.
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Sep 8, 2020 23:34
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H110Hawk posted:Wait, your problem were the top doors and not the crime against humanity that is a drawer freezer? Drawer freezer is far superior. It doesn't dump all the cold air out when it's opened. It's like a small chest freezer.
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Sep 8, 2020 23:41
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H110Hawk posted:Wait, your problem were the top doors and not the crime against humanity that is a drawer freezer? I like the lower freezer so I don’t have to stoop down to see into the fridge, and drawer makes the most sense this way. Also with the baskets it keeps things from getting packed away in the back of the freezer and forgotten! I don’t know why I just don’t care for the french door fridges, but the less cold air escaping and less space required are pretty valid reasons for them. SpartanIvy posted:Drawer freezer is far superior. It doesn't dump all the cold air out when it's opened. It's like a small chest freezer. Those are the pricier ones, the cheaper ones like mine is just the door on rails that go out with baskets on the rails, so all the cold air gets dumped too unfortunately. This was just a stopgap fridge before a potential new kitchen. Overall it’s fine though! priznat fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Sep 8, 2020 |
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Sep 8, 2020 23:43
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LG with the linear compressor. I got a rebranded one (Kenmore) before Sears poo poo the bed. 
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Sep 9, 2020 00:01
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priznat posted:Those are the pricier ones, the cheaper ones like mine is just the door on rails that go out with baskets on the rails, so all the cold air gets dumped too unfortunately.
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Sep 9, 2020 00:07
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I had a Kenmore rebranded Frigidaire french door, I think, that was an absolute loving lemon, and also the gaskets were terrible and condensation built up between the upper doors. I'm much happier with my side by side fridge that is a Whirlpool unit rebranded to kenmore. I'm glad Sears is dead because that was one of the worst experiences I've ever had with customer service trying to get a refund for the french door model.
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Sep 9, 2020 00:08
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One thing I do wish is that I could have tried the model out in person. It has this infuriating thing where the little nubs to change the humidity in the crisper trays ALWAYS get caught when you try to close the crispers. It's really annoying. Not annoying enough to return it but just every time I grumble about it. I do like having a wide cheese/meat drawer at the bottom though.
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Sep 9, 2020 00:12
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toplitzin posted:LG with the linear compressor. As someone that owns one the linear compressor is widely hated online. Personally mine just crapped out after nine years. Thankfully LG warranty’s them for 10 years.
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Sep 9, 2020 01:06
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The Dave posted:As someone that owns one the linear compressor is widely hated online. Hey, mine crapped out after 9 years this past spring too! Except the repairman LG sent wanted $600 in labor to install the new one so off to the garbage heap it went!
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Sep 9, 2020 02:02
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toplitzin posted:LG with the linear compressor. FCKGW posted:Yes, they're much easier to use and can fit in more spaces. They also let less cold air out if you put your most frequently used items on a single door side. LG have the "door in door" so you can put your milk, beer and water in a little pocket dimension and access without opening the door at all. Plus they have mirror finish option. Edit: whoops, should have read further down before posting. 6 years so far... 
~Coxy fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Sep 9, 2020 |
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Sep 9, 2020 04:45
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I'm holding out for the door in a door in a door that holds a single egg.
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Sep 9, 2020 04:48
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We have one of the french door Samsung's in our rental. It got misaligned somehow so the flap didn't seal and was letting out cold air, so that's something to look out for. Prob the owner didn't level it correctly. The snack drawer thing is great though since it perfectly fits 12 oz cans standing, so ours is filled with beer, wine and lacroix.
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Sep 9, 2020 05:15
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OK so I need help with a stupid thing that I can't seem to figure out myself. I've posted stuff about this a few days ago, but finally got some things modeled up. We're building a screened in porch and deck. So again, here's our current deck:  (Yes there is a door to the left of the windows, for some reason that wall was giving me poo poo when I tried to add a door so  )It's 10x13. The decision we're trying to make is on a few different configurations. We've decided that the screened in section will be 16x13. That's pretty final. But the side deck is still up for debate in both size, height, and stairs. Size: If we make the ends of both sections meet, the side deck will be 18x12. Considering it will have just a grill on it, that's kind of big. I mean, we would have a table/chairs on it too, but it wouldn't get used much. We don't host parties or anything, I just feel like if we're going to do it, might as well do it, and I feel like it'd look a little funny if it didn't come out to meet the far end of the screened in section. That said, even with the smaller size it's STILL bigger than what we have right now. Height: I go back and forth on this. I'd like the side deck to be sunken for 2 reasons: 1) the stair side will be more level with the ground, and 2) the house wall has utilities on it (catv/phone/fiber/electrical). Having it level with the screened in section will also mean that some siding gets torn up, and one of the utility boxes gets moved/removed (catv I think). Don't REALLY care, we don't use cable, and it'd only be the service-side. The house penetration is high enough where it wouldn't be affected. All that, and the drop would only be about 10" from the screened section. Enough for a step, and that 10" takes the deck to basically level with the foundation, so no need to touch the siding. But the more I think about it, the more making it level with the screened section makes sense. Stairs: We're thinking wide, because that area is close to level with the ground (the gray square on the right is a concrete paver). I feel like it'd be weird to have a little 40" wide 2-step staircase. I think in either case we'd have a hand rail on the side furthest from the house. The ground starts to slope so we can't really make the entire side stairs, but I dunno. Only issue with wide stairs is it precludes a gate, but there will be a door on the screened section so any kids/pets that need to be corralled would be in there. So here are all the permutations we're considering: Full size, 40" stairs (level & sunken):   Full size, 100" stairs (arbitrary number) (level & sunken):   Short (14') side deck, 40" stairs (level & sunken):   Short (14') side deck, 100" stairs (arbitrary number) stairs (level & sunken):   Also open to other ideas! Basically looking for feedback and any other pros/cons we may have missed. Once we figure this part out, we can get final estimates and pick a builder. I don't know why, but I guess I'm having a tough time. Probably because it's going to cost a shitload of money and once it's done, changing it will cost a shitload more. Not shown is the option where we leave a 2-3 ft gap at the side of the house. Haven't drawn that one up yet, but I've pretty much discarded it as a non-starter. About the only good thing is it would mean nothing has to happen to utilities or siding. There's also a cleanout that gets covered by going all the way to the house, but an access panel is easy enough to put in.
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Sep 10, 2020 01:55
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Tough to pick one design over another--more going to be a function of budget. Wide stairs do look better--but if you are in America and the deck is more than 30" off the ground, you could have trouble with inspections. My other question would be what compass direction does the house face where you want the decks. When you put the roof over the door and window--if you had direct sunlight in that room before, the roof line will stop that. And where is the kitchen? Nice to have your grilling deck close to the kitchen. Depending on kitchen and sunlight desires--swapping the decks? Put the roof over the section of wall that has no windows? If that wall indeed has no windows or doors, it would give your covered deck more usable square footage because you could use that wall for a bar, counter, etc instead of having to keep the area clear for the view/doorway.
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Sep 10, 2020 17:59
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If the idea is to do a lot of entertaining there then wider stairs seem like a no-brainer.
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Sep 10, 2020 19:16
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Thanks for the thoughts on the stairs. I figured wide was the right move, but I didn't know if I was missing anything. Not going to really do a bunch of entertaining, but resale is always part of the thought process as well. After about 8' or so the yard really starts to slope down, so there is a limit to how wide the stairs can be both functionally and before requiring handrails/guards/whatever. HycoCam posted:Tough to pick one design over another--more going to be a function of budget. Wide stairs do look better--but if you are in America and the deck is more than 30" off the ground, you could have trouble with inspections. All the estimates so far have the deck as big or bigger than what I'm showing, and they're mostly within our budget, so we should be good to go. I'm perfectly willing to spend a bit more here and there as long as we get value from it. And that's kind of part of the dilemma... the deck is useful up to a certain size, and after that it's just a waste of money and space. I just don't really know where that size is. Lots of houses around here seem to have a side deck big enough for a grill and maybe a chair or two, but that's all. Seems way too small to me. The deck is on the South side of the house. So yeah, lots of sunlight to be lost. I don't have them modeled in, but we're definitely putting in some skylights, just not sure how many. At least 2, probably 4. That won't bring all the sunlight back, but it'll be better than nothing. As far as where everything is, the door on the right goes in to the garage. The screened in portion comes off the kitchen/living room/breakfast nook. Basically the left-most windows are the living room, and the right-most windows are the breakfast nook, and the kitchen is probably 10' away from the windows. It's an open floor plan, except the dining room is cordoned off on the other side of the house. I mean, we certainly like all the sunlight we get. But in the scheme of things, the sunlight is the precise thing that prevents us from using our deck as-is. It's just WAY too hot in the summer. And by the time the sun goes down, you get eaten alive by bugs. HycoCam posted:Depending on kitchen and sunlight desires--swapping the decks? Put the roof over the section of wall that has no windows? If that wall indeed has no windows or doors, it would give your covered deck more usable square footage because you could use that wall for a bar, counter, etc instead of having to keep the area clear for the view/doorway. I hadn't thought of this, it's an interesting idea. One issue would be that to get to it, we'd have to go through the un-screened portion. The other is that the blank wall has incoming utilities... electric meter, cable, phone, and also the vent for the hot water heater. So it's not the best place to enclose, but it would certainly open up some possibilities. edit: Durr, I could just make a rough model of our table and grill and put them in the 3D model to see how much space they take up (or leave open) on the deck. Probably also going to want to look around and see if I can download a 3D person model for scale... mechanical engineers I've worked with use them all the time, I'm sure there are plenty out there. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Sep 10, 2020 |
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Sep 10, 2020 20:41
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The staggered decks will probably look fine especially if you do some plant thing in the “recess” to visually line the decks up a little more. You should probably double check to make sure there’s enough height for a properly sloped roof to fit under the second story window. I don’t think you’d want to walk house -> open deck -> covered deck. Modeling is cool and all, but if it’s possible and you’re comfortable with it, going to a place that sells patio furniture with a tape measure in your hand (to measure how much walking space is needed around stuff) might be worth it before you commit to overall dimensions. I’ve found there’s a world of difference in feel between, say, 3’ and 4’ between things. Or 30” and 40”
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Sep 10, 2020 22:57
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Staggered looks better imo. Did you actually do any structural design yet? That matters the most. If there's a single common beam across the outer part for both decks, the bigger one could be cantilevered out 20% or so, while the smaller deck could just butt up to the beam. Hard to tell height, you may not even have room for a beam, but I've always liked building mine using that method as it's mostly gravity. Posts in ground, beams on post, joists on beams, decking on joists.
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Sep 11, 2020 00:25
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WithoutTheFezOn posted:The staggered decks will probably look fine especially if you do some plant thing in the “recess” to visually line the decks up a little more. Landscaping is my weak spot. I abhor shrub maintenance, mainly because the last 4 years we've been having to try and unfuck the 20 year old contractor grade foundation cover. One nice thing about the side deck is it will cover up 3 loropetalums that grow like crazy and are planted less than 2' from the goddamn foundation. Seriously 5 months ago I hacked them down to literal stumps, and now they're almost 3' tall. I loving hate them. But that said, something easy to control would work well, so I definitely see your point. I doubt the HOA would let us get away with zero plants anyhow. WithoutTheFezOn posted:You should probably double check to make sure there’s enough height for a properly sloped roof to fit under the second story window. Right now the peak is ~11" below the sill, and the Trim isn't modeled in, though, so that'll take up a few more inches. As modeled, the roof angle is about 45 degrees. No idea what the pitch needs to be at minimum, but given the oddities created with the 2nd floor bump out, we'd probably have to go shallower. WithoutTheFezOn posted:Modeling is cool and all, but if it’s possible and you’re comfortable with it, going to a place that sells patio furniture with a tape measure in your hand (to measure how much walking space is needed around stuff) might be worth it before you commit to overall dimensions. I’ve found there’s a world of difference in feel between, say, 3’ and 4’ between things. Or 30” and 40” We have some idea based on the current deck. It's 10x13, and we know that it's barely big enough for a 48" table and a grill. But without putting stakes in the ground, it's hard to really figure out what a bigger deck gets us. falz posted:Staggered looks better imo. Did you actually do any structural design yet? That matters the most. No structural yet, just some basic estimates and some BS overall dimensions that I'm making up as I go. I figured that size would come first and structure would come second, barring any major issues. But I didn't consider a cantilevered section. I'm not that kind of engineer so anything not directly supported scares me. IIRC one of the builders said code required supports spaced no further than 10', so at 16' we'd need 2 supports anyhow. Doesn't preclude cantilevering, of course, just means it's not strictly necessary except to achieve a design objective. And I have no idea if the grade would allow for a single beam spanning that far. I think at 14' for the side deck, it should be fine, but I'm not 100% sure. Haven't had an opportunity to go out and measure things to that detail. So for shits and grins, I whipped up the current furniture. I also added some half-assed sky lights. Here's the current layout:  And here's what it would be with the new deck (truncated):  And for funsies, here's an overlay of new and old:  edit: Forgot the "big" deck layout:  The more I look at it, the more I think that even with the "small" deck, we could have like a 6-person table and big grill and still be OK for space... DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Sep 11, 2020 |
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Sep 11, 2020 03:34
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Staggered deck, wide stairs, no railings between the 2 decks. Or is that against code?
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Sep 11, 2020 05:35
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Speaking of 3D modeling your house, are there any good free programs that are easy to get started in?
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Sep 11, 2020 08:40
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mutata posted:Staggered deck, wide stairs, no railings between the 2 decks. Or is that against code? The covered portion will be screened in, so a rail is kind of necessary. No idea of code requires it, but it'll keep small children (and inattentive adults) from plowing through the screen. MrOnBicycle posted:Speaking of 3D modeling your house, are there any good free programs that are easy to get started in? I'm using FreeCAD. I don't recommend it unless you have background in 3D modeling. It's really designed more to emulate the software used to create machines and widgets and whatnot (similar to SolidWorks). I was using it for some stuff and decided to keep using it for modeling my house. I am not good at it. It has an Architectural tool set, which is most of what I use for my house model, but I haven't explored much beyond a few basic things. It's not really built for doing a house, but it can be made to. But in any case, it's not really beginner friendly. I think SketchUp is still the go-to for free 3D CAD software. I didn't like it because it was very different from what I'm used to, but I think it's fairly popular among people who do this sort of thing a lot.
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Sep 11, 2020 11:58
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With ignoring code, ground slope, and insurance,I’d go for as little railing as possible on the lower deck. I’m just a big fan of completely open decks with wrap around steps.
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Sep 11, 2020 12:18
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The Dave posted:With ignoring code, ground slope, and insurance,I’d go for as little railing as possible on the lower deck. I’m just a big fan of completely open decks with wrap around steps. This is pretty much my line of thinking. I'd love for the steps to go the whole side, or even wrap around or something, but unfortunately the rail by the grill will be necessary due to the grade. Here's an old rear end picture from google street view. Not about to take a fresh picture because the shrubs all look like poo poo:  The slopes are hard to see, and the angle minimizes it, but they're there.
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Sep 11, 2020 13:29
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DaveSauce posted:No structural yet, just some basic estimates and some BS overall dimensions that I'm making up as I go. I figured that size would come first and structure would come second, barring any major issues. But I didn't consider a cantilevered section. I'm not that kind of engineer so anything not directly supported scares me. IIRC one of the builders said code required supports spaced no further than 10', so at 16' we'd need 2 supports anyhow. Doesn't preclude cantilevering, of course, just means it's not strictly necessary except to achieve a design objective. Definitely look at structure next before you decide. It's fairly easy to get the basics with online calculators, but knowing something like joist span and beam span will allow you to know what size of deck you *could* build without adding more beams and posts and whatnot. Like, what if each of your deck sections were 1' too big in some direction and you have to add another beam because of that - not worth it. Honestly, get one of those $10 home depot deck books, it has all sorts of useful stuff in it. Here's the last deck I built about ~10 years ago laying out the structure I prefer (gravity). couldnt seem to find a finished photo, but you get the gist. It has a 3' cantilever at the end because a book / calculator told me i could due to the size of joist and beam and whatnot. The more posts you have, the more painful and expensive it will be. This one has a lot imo, and its in the ballpark size of yours. In my region, you have to go 4' deep for each post hole, not fun. (Also, use gravity there, just toss a bag of quickcrete down there + water, let it dry, set post on top). https://imgur.com/a/VyegfCp     falz fucked around with this message at 13:48 on Sep 11, 2020 |
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Sep 11, 2020 13:44
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MrOnBicycle posted:Speaking of 3D modeling your house, are there any good free programs that are easy to get started in? I used SketchUp to design our kitchen and like it a lot. They have a 30 day pro trial which is long enough to learn to use it and model some things if you work on it a few days a week. It's a legit trial too, you don't have to give them payment info and worry about cancelling at 30 days. SketchUp Make is still available to download for free, which I've been using, and is pretty full featured. There's definitely a learning curve so you'll need to watch some tutorials, but it's pretty user friendly once you get the hang of it. Check out Steve Ramsey SketchUp for woodworkers on YouTube, it's a really good first tutorial for modeling.
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Sep 11, 2020 15:44
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DaveSauce posted:2) the house wall has utilities on it (catv/phone/fiber/electrical). Having it level with the screened in section will also mean that some siding gets torn up, and one of the utility boxes gets moved/removed (catv I think). Don't REALLY care, we don't use cable, and it'd only be the service-side.
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Sep 11, 2020 17:30
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Update! I decided that I might as well give the door frame a shot on my own, since I could see daylight through the rottted-out part. As before, this is where we started:  Ooof. Chopped out the rot with a decent margin.  Wedged in some cut-down scrap, toenailed it in (there's no wood to nail into and I didn't feel like a temporary repair needed to be tapconned into the stone), used some 1x2 as a stop. Firewall expanding foam for the gaps.  It's ugly, but the door seals halfway well and it cost me fifteen bucks instead of two grand for a brand-new steel door installation.
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Sep 11, 2020 20:36
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Probably a smaller detail, but it looks like you’re going to need at least three steps. Have you measured the height difference between the two doors?
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Sep 12, 2020 01:04
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Does anyone have any experience with heat pump/condenser dryers? I’m thinking about moving our laundry setup out of the basement, and am considering a Miele heat pump dryer for the smallish space we’d be moving it to- using a 120v outlet and not having to have a dryer vent cut in the house is kind of appealing (our top floor is covered by roof, so second story wall openings are really dicey). From what I understand, they have a smaller capacity and take a bit longer to dry things, but that seems like a decent tradeoff for the convenience. They don’t seem very common in the US though. BadSamaritan fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Sep 14, 2020 |
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Sep 14, 2020 19:50
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BadSamaritan posted:Does anyone have any experience with heat pump/condenser dryers? I’m thinking about moving our laundry setup out of the basement, and am considering a Miele heat pump dryer for the smallish space we’d be moving it to- using a 120v outlet and not having to have a dryer vent cut in the house is kind of appealing (our top floor is covered by roof, so second story wall openings are really dicey). I'm planning on getting either a Miele or Bosch one for similar reasons. You seem to have it figured out. They take significantly longer to dry clothes than a conventional dryer but also are crazy energy efficient, easier on your clothes fabric, and only require power and a drain line for the condensate. I'd imagine they're quieter too but don't hold me too that.
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Sep 14, 2020 20:00
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I have a budget-end beko condenser dryer, and it works fine. It takes an hour or two to fully dry a load, but has a large capacity. Generates a fair amount of heat. I've plumbed the drain into a sink waste so no emptying required (but you can take that route if you prefer, needs a quick emptying every cycle or two). It's not quiet. I have some miele stuff and the recent repair guy recommended bosch instead. Not because miele are bad, quite the opposite, but because the bosch will still get as good reliability for the home user, where a miele is "get's wrecked daily in a nursing home" reliability. So the extra money apparently isn't worth it.
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Sep 14, 2020 20:33
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BadSamaritan posted:Does anyone have any experience with heat pump/condenser dryers? I’m thinking about moving our laundry setup out of the basement, and am considering a Miele heat pump dryer for the smallish space we’d be moving it to- using a 120v outlet and not having to have a dryer vent cut in the house is kind of appealing (our top floor is covered by roof, so second story wall openings are really dicey). I have an LG combo washer/dryer that uses a condenser to dry (I bought it with the place so I didn't do a lot of brand research on it). It does take longer to dry clothes, but depending on how many people you live with that may or may not be a problem. I find it convenient to be able to just toss in a load and forget about it, but I think mine takes 4-6 hours to go from starting a load to having dry, clean laundry.
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Sep 15, 2020 00:34
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Lol the electrician hired by the PO prior to sale has just sent us an invoice for the work, in my husband's name. Do I just call this guy and tell him to contact the PO or what?
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Sep 15, 2020 01:35
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BonerGhost posted:Lol the electrician hired by the PO prior to sale has just sent us an invoice for the work, in my husband's name. Yup. Make sure it gets paid and no lein is filed against your home. Send it to your realtor basically.
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Sep 15, 2020 01:49
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falz posted:Definitely look at structure next before you decide. It's fairly easy to get the basics with online calculators, but knowing something like joist span and beam span will allow you to know what size of deck you *could* build without adding more beams and posts and whatnot. Like, what if each of your deck sections were 1' too big in some direction and you have to add another beam because of that - not worth it. That's a good point, hadn't thought of that. I'm assuming the estimates we received already account for that cost-wise, and we're OK with it, but it'd be good to know if shrinking a dimension by 1' could trim significant cost. Given that we're going to go with Trex, most of the conversation centered around setting the dimensions so as to minimize waste of the decking, but nothing was really mentioned about the structure. HycoCam posted:Those utilities are buried? (versus aerial) You are going to want to call 811 to mark those lines. You can build a deck over your utility lines--but Murphy's Law always applies. #1 have to make sure you don't cut any lines digging the footers. And #2 typically you never need to mess with buried lines, but put a deck over them and **something** will screw up five years down the road if your luck is like mine... Yup, I'm not pleased with it, but it is what it is. Honestly I'm more worried about #1. I assume they'd call 811 for their own safety, but there's no way I'm letting them start a drat thing until the ground's been marked. WithoutTheFezOn posted:Probably a smaller detail, but it looks like you’re going to need at least three steps. Have you measured the height difference between the two doors? It's a pretty solid maybe, without taking more detailed measurements. So the door and the porch are where they should be best I can measure (within an inch, maybe 2 at worst). Assuming the side deck being level with the porch, then if the ground were equal with the paver where the steps end, then 2 would be fine (using the same rise as the current steps). But it slopes a bit so it gets hard to tell. MIGHT venture in to 3-step territory, I'm not sure. Certainly the further away form the house it will. But honestly that's not a big deal as long as we can still have the wide steps. I guess I don't know if code requires a hand rail within a certain distance or something, but based on pictures I've seen looking around online I don't THINK there will be an issue. Appreciate all the help and suggestions from everyone, really helped steer us towards a decision. Now the follow-up: If I write poo poo down in a pseudo-spec, am I going to get ignored? Laughed at? Or will they appreciate that I took the time to write everything down? I didn't intend on it reading like a spec, but that's how I'm used to reading things and I didn't want have some wishy-washy BS, so now it has poo poo like "all decking shall be Trex" in it. But frankly all the estimates seems pretty bare-bones, so I feel like SOMEONE has to write this poo poo down. BonerGhost posted:Lol the electrician hired by the PO prior to sale has just sent us an invoice for the work, in my husband's name. That's actually not good. If he doesn't get paid, the electrician could put a mechanic's lien on your house. Dude's got a lot of power here to get paid, and you'll be stuck chasing after the PO to get that money. So short answer is yes, tell him that the PO's got his money, but if the PO doesn't pay quickly then the electrician has a window in which he can file a lien, and a lot of jurisdictions will allow it and your title insurance probably won't cover it. Call your realtor and/or closing attorney immediately after you tell the electrician to pound sand (but politely, of course). Honestly the electrician is probably coming after you guys because the PO already ducked out on the bill. He's not going to waste too much time trying to track down the PO if he can just stick you with it. Do you have a forwarding address, so the electrician at least has somewhere to send the bill?
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Sep 15, 2020 01:51
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DaveSauce posted:Yup, I'm not pleased with it, but it is what it is. Honestly I'm more worried about #1. I assume they'd call 811 for their own safety, but there's no way I'm letting them start a drat thing until the ground's been marked. Put it in your contract. I would wait until you have everything ready to go more or less then make sure you have them include that 811 markings, permits, inspections are required and their responsibility. It will probably cost a little more for their time but whatever.
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Sep 15, 2020 02:01
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| # ? May 27, 2024 17:48 |
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Monoprice just emailed me to say the CAT6 cable I bought last year and still haven't gotten around to installing in my house is being recalled due to increased risk of fire spread. Procrastination wins again! Incredibly, if I had installed it, they are offering to pay to have it all removed and replacement cable re-installed all on their dime. In case you've bought Monoprice brand bulk CAT6 between December 2018 and February 2020, might wanna check out the recall website: https://mpcmrrecall.com/
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Sep 15, 2020 02:37
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