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Old (40 years?), but zero leaks anywhere in the system and water pressure is stupid high in my piping. Mind you ripping out this 20 feet of pipe would cost me probably 5 grand in interior finishes that would need replacing. Honestly, I'd rather it break and end up getting insurance to fix it....
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Sep 14, 2020 16:21
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I am getting an irrigation system installed on my house in the next few weeks. Both companies I've had out said due to the grading of my property and placement of the valve I have the wrong kind of backflow preventer on the house and need to swap it for an RPZ backflow. One company told me they could get a plumber to do it for $700 all in. I am seeing a 1" RPZ backflow preventer for $320 online. I have experience sweating pipes and with threaded connections. Is there any reason I couldn't do the install myself and save $300? Anything nuanced I need to know here? 
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Sep 15, 2020 20:23
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Heya! Ive got a bathroom sink in my sons room that has a significantly weaker flow than the other identical 5 faucets I have. I took the aerator off of it and put the one from another faucet and still weak flow and put the aerator from the slow faucet another faucet and it has normal flow. I then bought new cartridges and swapped them out and still weak flow...I don't really know where to go after that. What else is there to a faucet?? Looking at the PEX coming to the underside of the sink and it looks to be the same size as other faucets so that leaves me with zero ideas. Anyone want to tell me what I am missing?
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Sep 15, 2020 23:10
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Have you made sure the supply valves under the sink are turned completely open?
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Sep 15, 2020 23:16
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schreibs posted:Heya! Ive got a bathroom sink in my sons room that has a significantly weaker flow than the other identical 5 faucets I have. I took the aerator off of it and put the one from another faucet and still weak flow and put the aerator from the slow faucet another faucet and it has normal flow. I then bought new cartridges and swapped them out and still weak flow...I don't really know where to go after that. What else is there to a faucet?? Looking at the PEX coming to the underside of the sink and it looks to be the same size as other faucets so that leaves me with zero ideas. Anyone want to tell me what I am missing? Probably something clogged inside the faucet. Can you remove the faucet cartridge(S)?
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Sep 15, 2020 23:17
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wesleywillis posted:Probably something clogged inside the faucet. I replaced the cartridges *with new ones from Moen* after cleaning them and seeing the same weak flow. I shoved a brush down the handle stems with the cartridge out. Also definitely made sure to open the supply valves all the way each time I turned off/turned on when removing the cartridges. schreibs fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Sep 15, 2020 |
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Sep 15, 2020 23:18
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Blindeye posted:Old (40 years?), but zero leaks anywhere in the system and water pressure is stupid high in my piping. Mind you ripping out this 20 feet of pipe would cost me probably 5 grand in interior finishes that would need replacing. Honestly, I'd rather it break and end up getting insurance to fix it....
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Sep 16, 2020 04:37
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Nitrox posted:is it possible to fish new pex line behind framing/drywall and leave original in its place? Also, I've cut a 2" wide strip of drywall from a finished wall, drilled every stud, drilled cinder block, and then pulled a new 1/2" pex line for an outside spicket. Then put that drywall back up and had it spackled and ready for paint, all in one day. About 9' long strip of drywall altogether. You may want to get actual quotes about this, instead of assuming five grand or whatever. There's multiple electrical interferences, a load bearing main beam, specially textured drywall, and HVAC ducting to get through. I've looked into this.
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Sep 16, 2020 04:59
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Any guess how hosed I am if my boiler is in hard lockout mode saying: "Hard lockout 19 Purge Rate Proving Failed Possible Cause: -Misswired fan power harness -Misswired fan speed harness -Defective fan or Defective Control" ? We just bought this place and based on the maintenance log it was installed around 2012, a Burnham Hydronics Alpine. Last listed maintenance 2015, ugh. My real worry is that it's going to be like $200 to replace some fan that's back-ordered 3 weeks, leaving us without hot water. (Actually, my wife wouldn't allow that, she'd insist we buy something new and get it rush installed tomorrow).
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Sep 17, 2020 02:24
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Water heater at work sprung a leak somewhere inside (we noticed the pan at the bottom was overflowing with water) so we shut off the water going to it, and then, I dunno why, but also the hot water pipe exiting it. For good measure? A few hours later, there was a crazy shaking sound like an unbalanced washing machine, but it was, obviously, the water heater. Opening a hot water tap made it go away, and then we opened the hot water line leading away from the tank and it didn't do it again. What did we do? How close were we to making it violently explode? Tank has been replaced already, but my boss didn't ask the plumber what the noise was all about and now I'm curious.
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Sep 17, 2020 02:37
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I would guess after it cooled off, the water in the tank contracted and created negative pressure that sucked in air from wherever it had previously been leaking and caused some crazy noise.
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Sep 17, 2020 05:50
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Academician Nomad posted:Any guess how hosed I am if my boiler is in hard lockout mode saying: Power cycle it? I've got a Burnham Freedom that locks out about once every 18 months for a sensor error. If the fan actually died, it'll be way more than $200 to replace. Ours died after 10 years and it was $350 in parts plus the service call at $150. The motors aren't simple on/off units, but fancy EM Pabst with PWM controllers built in. I limped mine along for a few days by manually spinning the exposed fan shaft when I turned the boiler on. It would run once, then error out, but it'd make hot water or heat while it ran. Gone are the days of cheap replacement parts for boilers, the mod/cons are amazingly efficient but very sensor-dependent.
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Sep 17, 2020 14:15
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sharkytm posted:Power cycle it? I've got a Burnham Freedom that locks out about once every 18 months for a sensor error. If the fan actually died, it'll be way more than $200 to replace. Ours died after 10 years and it was $350 in parts plus the service call at $150. The motors aren't simple on/off units, but fancy EM Pabst with PWM controllers built in. I limped mine along for a few days by manually spinning the exposed fan shaft when I turned the boiler on. It would run once, then error out, but it'd make hot water or heat while it ran. Gone are the days of cheap replacement parts for boilers, the mod/cons are amazingly efficient but very sensor-dependent. Hmm, thanks. If it's a serious cost, I might just see about ditching it in favor of investing in a tankless setup. Edit: Power cycled, seems to be working? At least heating up the tank and getting us some hot water, which will go a long way for the wife's mood, excellent. Still want the company that installed it back out to service it, though - the fans are notably louder than they used to be. Academician Nomad fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Sep 17, 2020 |
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Sep 17, 2020 14:29
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Academician Nomad posted:Hmm, thanks. If it's a serious cost, I might just see about ditching it in favor of investing in a tankless setup. Awesome. WAF is important. https://www.ecomfort.com/Burnham-105758-01/p80211.html Ugh, $800 for the fan, plus markup, plus install... Like I said, modern stuff isn't cheap.
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Sep 17, 2020 15:23
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sharkytm posted:Awesome. WAF is important. Yikes, that seems like 1/3-1/2 the cost of a brand new tankless system even before plumber markup (though I'm sure labor on going tankless would be more). Might be time to switch after all, if our gas line is sufficient for tankless.
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Sep 17, 2020 16:43
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I would start scheduling this stuff now. Louder means something is going - bearings, capacitors, what have you. Don't be like me and take 2 days of cold showers before the new one could be installed.
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Sep 17, 2020 16:54
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H110Hawk posted:I would start scheduling this stuff now. Louder means something is going - bearings, capacitors, what have you. Don't be like me and take 2 days of cold showers before the new one could be installed. Yeah I'm def. not cancelling the appointment tomorrow morning for the service techs to come out and look at the boiler just because it's working again. At worst they can do annual maintenance and give a better estimate of what needs doing long-term.
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Sep 17, 2020 17:15
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Hello plumber goons; I had a plumber out yesterday to fix a leak. After they were gone, I noticed that my kitchen faucet has no pressure, the water just dribbles out. Did some piece of debris/lime buildup make its way into the pex in my kitchen? Is this something an untalented goon with 2 left hands could attempt or do I need to call the pros back out?
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Sep 17, 2020 17:52
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JPrime posted:Hello plumber goons; I had a plumber out yesterday to fix a leak. After they were gone, I noticed that my kitchen faucet has no pressure, the water just dribbles out. Did some piece of debris/lime buildup make its way into the pex in my kitchen? Is this something an untalented goon with 2 left hands could attempt or do I need to call the pros back out? What were they working on where? Would there have been a reason for them to have turned off the hot and/or cold water under the kitchen sink? Furthermore, is it just hot or cold or both? Have you checked all other sinks and water outlets? (washing machine, any hoses bibis, etc) Do you own this place or rent?
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Sep 17, 2020 17:56
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Motronic posted:What were they working on where? Would there have been a reason for them to have turned off the hot and/or cold water under the kitchen sink? Furthermore, is it just hot or cold or both? Have you checked all other sinks and water outlets? (washing machine, any hoses bibis, etc) Do you own this place or rent? They had to turn off the main water supply and did some work on the hot water heater. They didn't touch the valves under the sink. It seems to be both hot and cold taps, but no other taps in the house seem to be affected. We own the place.
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Sep 17, 2020 18:05
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Try taking the aerator off and see if it's clogged up. It's a long shot, but a possibility.
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Sep 17, 2020 18:09
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JPrime posted:They had to turn off the main water supply and did some work on the hot water heater. They didn't touch the valves under the sink. It seems to be both hot and cold taps, but no other taps in the house seem to be affected. We own the place. I am always generally of the opinion that you should call them and explain that your sink no longer works after they were out there and see if they'll come back and unfuck it for free. YMMV depending on everything, but I'd try that first either way.
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Sep 17, 2020 18:09
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...but pull the aerator off of the faucet and try that first. If they were soldering or using teflon tape, it's entirely possible that there's debris in the line clogging the sink aerator.
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Sep 17, 2020 20:04
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schreibs posted:I replaced the cartridges *with new ones from Moen* after cleaning them and seeing the same weak flow. I shoved a brush down the handle stems with the cartridge out. Also definitely made sure to open the supply valves all the way each time I turned off/turned on when removing the cartridges. Check for clogs at the stop valves under the sink. Once they're off, undo the supply lines from the valves and look inside. Crud can get stuck right there where the flow is made narrower.
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Sep 17, 2020 23:24
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Sep 19, 2020 03:59
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That's some good slope there
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Sep 19, 2020 04:09
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Someone got sick of backups and was not going to gently caress around anymore.
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Sep 19, 2020 13:27
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That tiny air admittance valve on a 4-in pipe has got to be a metaphor for something
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Sep 19, 2020 13:43
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Found in my new rental. I'm not super concerned about it, just figured it would get a laugh. Unless I should be concerned about it. http://imgur.com/gallery/Fl481VI
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Sep 19, 2020 23:50
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Those expansion tanks should definitely be supported better than that and I also believe mounted vertically. Not your problem unless it starts leaking though.
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Sep 20, 2020 00:27
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SpartanIvy posted:Those expansion tanks should definitely be supported better than that and I also believe mounted vertically. Depends on the brand. Some don't matter what position it's mounted in. I am not familiar with this exact one though.
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Sep 20, 2020 01:37
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I just looked up the installation manual and it says it can be mounted horizontal as long as it's properly supported. So it looks like that's the only issue with it.
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Sep 20, 2020 01:42
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  How hosed am I? This elbow goes to my only toilet. I got a bucket underneath to catch that drip for now. Can I just cut that cast iron where that long street elbow straightens out, then put a sleeve coupling on it and build a new drain to a new toilet flange?
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Sep 20, 2020 16:34
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A toilet in one of my bathrooms is backing up when flushed. When it sits for a few hours the water in the bowl will run way down, then when when flushed it’ll burble and spit air then back up with tank water. I can hear the water slowly running out. I tried a few rounds of plunging and a 3ft spinny toilet snake...but same behavior. Any thoughts? Seems like it has to be a blockage but non of my other systems are backing up.
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Sep 20, 2020 20:27
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Could possibly be a clogged vent.
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Sep 20, 2020 20:38
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CarForumPoster posted:A toilet in one of my bathrooms is backing up when flushed. Sounds like a clog, either in the toilet's trap or in the line. I'd first check the last opening of the toilet. Turn off the water, empty your toilet, take your toilet off the flange and look at the bottom exit of the toilet. I've had several clogs because stuff gets stuck right at the last corner there: pens, tampons still in their wrappers... One time at one of our stores someone literally poo poo a brick. It was a turd too big and solid to make it past that last corner. Anyway, if that's the case with yours, then clear the clog, clean up the old wax ring (plastic shopping bags are great for this), put down a new wax ring and replace the toilet.
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Sep 20, 2020 20:47
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kid sinister posted:
Yes, if you have 3-4-inches minimum to the bell on the stack. The fun part is finding out if the corrosion extends to the lateral. If it does, it is possible to cut and dig the pipe out of the bell, and run PVC into a rubber slip bushing.
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Sep 20, 2020 21:41
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PainterofCrap posted:The fun part is finding out if the corrosion extends to the lateral. Hey don't say that.  I got a 4 year old who still has accidents. Did I mention that this is my only toilet?I tried out a new 4" sweep elbow there. I should have about 4" with it to work with if I use that sweep elbow. The only thing I'm worried about is that I can see the casting seam on the existing long elbow. It sticks out noticeably. This pipe isn't 100% circular... kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Sep 20, 2020 |
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Sep 20, 2020 22:02
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kid sinister posted:Sounds like a clog, either in the toilet's trap or in the line. I'd first check the last opening of the toilet. ... clear the clog, clean up the old wax ring (plastic shopping bags are great for this), put down a new wax ring and replace the toilet. Thanks! I’ll hit the homeless despot on the way home tomorrow and post if I hit pay
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Sep 20, 2020 22:04
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PainterofCrap posted:The fun part is finding out if the corrosion extends to the lateral. If it does, it is possible to cut and dig the pipe out of the bell, and run PVC into a rubber slip bushing. Wait a second. You can run PVC into the cast iron bell? How would that work? I haven't verified if I would need to do this yet, I'm just curious.
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Sep 20, 2020 22:13
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