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Jesse Ventura posted:
I might have posted about looking for for one but I just grabbed this over the weekend. Someone had to smoke 440 packs and pay $110 for this thing in 1996. The components were all super low end garbage stuff but the frame is 4130 chromoly steel. You could buy this bike from a dealer as well without the Marlboro branding, and it’s apparently much rarer, and with better components, although still pretty low end. I’ve seen a couple built up online - one guy went all out and powder coated the frame and made it into an IGH build. The other build I saw was similar to what I’m going for, leaving the frame original but going 1x and replacing the junk parts.
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Sep 18, 2020 10:52
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440 packs! Could your lungs stand biking after that? —— I saw the other mechanic today, the one near where I work. To my surprise he located a bad link in my chain, I don’t know if the link is responsible for the changing gears but it certainly will have to be fixed. Don’t know if I could do that myself.
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Sep 18, 2020 11:25
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I had a warranty frame replaced a few weeks ago and the shop that did the work was garbage. Keep in mind it was a rebuild with current generation DA that only had about 50 rides on it. Here is the final tally Rotors rubbing the brake pads, both front and rear. Front derail, completely out of adjustment and not aligned with the rings Rear derail, out of adjustment, still does not work well. Won't shift into larger cogs easily, gets hung up in between gears. I am assuming a piece of internal cable housing is not seated against the stops. Please set my seat at exactly 31". Nope, it was set at 31.5", and I had to cut the mast myself. Air in the brake lines, enough that I could hear the fluid sloshing around when I pulled the brake levers. None of the bolts were torqued to spec. And my favorite, the left crank arm just sort of hanging free on the spindle, Other than that, great job guys.
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Sep 18, 2020 16:33
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Cat rear end Trophy posted:I had a warranty frame replaced a few weeks ago and the shop that did the work was garbage. Keep in mind it was a rebuild with current generation DA that only had about 50 rides on it. Here is the final tally Name and shame please! What was their excuse?
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Sep 18, 2020 17:17
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that's not just sloppy, that is literally unsafe to ride
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Sep 18, 2020 17:39
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My first maintenance post after buying my bike about a month ago, exciting! 2020 Giant Contend AR3, all stock parts. Everything is super smooth and quiet, and was for the first few weeks. Lately though, I've been hearing this loud metal POP occasionally when I push hard on the pedals, happens on either side, almost always after coasting and getting back on the pedals. I was able to recreate it when I had the bike up on a bench just using my arm, after rotating the pedals backward for a bit, then pushing down. Any ideas? I've tried tightening every bolt on the crank arm and pedals I can see, but it doesn't seem to have helped. I can try to take a video if that would help diagnose the issue.
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Sep 18, 2020 18:23
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Freehub pawls half catching then slipping. Some can be opened up with no tools and some require taking out all the loose ball bearings.
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Sep 18, 2020 18:25
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CopperHound posted:Freehub pawls half catching then slipping. Some can be opened up with no tools and some require taking out all the loose ball bearings. drat, that is a little out of my comfort zone, may have to take it to my local shop. Thanks. Is that unusual for a new bike, or something that just happens as it is broken in?
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Sep 18, 2020 18:40
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Ehh, should not happen on a new bike. I imagine the most likely cause is that the grease is a little too thick and making it stick. If I didn't just buy the bike from a local bike shop, I'd probably try flushing a little bit of light weight oil like triflow at the spot where the freehub meets the hub.
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Sep 18, 2020 18:45
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How can I fix my rear brake? The plastic ring that holds the spring is cracked, so the brakes just rub the wheel all the time. Can I buy this part, or do I need a new brake set? 
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Sep 18, 2020 22:17
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Cigarette Bike update: Anybody else want one? https://holland.craigslist.org/bik/d/hamilton-special-edition-marlboro/7187585576.html
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Sep 18, 2020 22:26
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lwoodio posted:How can I fix my rear brake? The plastic ring that holds the spring is cracked, so the brakes just rub the wheel all the time. Can I buy this part, or do I need a new brake set? How long had you been riding with the brake like that? V-brakes are fairly cheap. This isn't the lowest tier option; you could go cheaper if you wanted: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Mountain-Bicycle-V-Brake-BR-T4000/dp/B00MWHDPEC?th=1&psc=1
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Sep 18, 2020 22:43
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kimbo305 posted:How long had you been riding with the brake like that? The bike had been sitting around for a while and just tried to use it. I don't know anything about bikes. How do I know what v brakes work on the bike? Are they universal?
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Sep 19, 2020 00:12
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lwoodio posted:The bike had been sitting around for a while and just tried to use it. I don't know anything about bikes. How do I know what v brakes work on the bike? Are they universal? Those brakes will work.
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Sep 19, 2020 00:26
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lwoodio posted:The bike had been sitting around for a while and just tried to use it. I don't know anything about bikes. How do I know what v brakes work on the bike? Are they universal? Most brakes have a reasonable amount of adjustment. Your frame doesn’t have any unusual clearance limitations.
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Sep 19, 2020 01:04
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I'm trying to understand how GXP deals with bracket type FDs. So Hollowtech 73mm does it by having a narrower driveside cup (not illustrated in the diagram), and defaulting to using a 2.5mm spacer when you don't run a bracket FD mount?  I understand how the GXP crank is fixed at the NDS cup. But I don't see any mention of how to accomodate for the width of a bracket FD. It's just screw in the DS cup no matter what. Is there just a 2.5mm gap on the DS cup, with seals/covers taking up the cap?
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Sep 19, 2020 06:19
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TobinHatesYou posted:Color coordination of a largely obscured component yo.
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Sep 19, 2020 07:58
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kimbo305 posted:I'm trying to understand how GXP deals with bracket type FDs. There is a wave washer to take up that space also you can use cassette spacers to move the drive side cup out. https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/sram-s...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wheels-Manufacturing-1mm-Cassette-Spacer/dp/B0025UINFC
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Sep 19, 2020 15:59
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kimbo305 posted:I'm trying to understand how GXP deals with bracket type FDs. I do recall seeing some gap on the drive side last time I installed a gxp, but I can't recall if it would have been enough to leave room for the fd mount. I personally would just try it, but I would tell other people to get the frame faced down to 68mm.
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Sep 19, 2020 16:59
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mikemelbrooks posted:There is a wave washer to take up that space also you can use cassette spacers to move the drive side cup out. Under what circumstances would you want one on the DS cup? Default install doesn’t require them, and the bracket FD would provide its own push outboard.
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Sep 19, 2020 19:32
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Modal Auxiliary posted:Name and shame please! What was their excuse? I did not call, but wrote the owner an email. He is yet to respond. I'll call in a few days if he does not get back to me. In any case, I won't take it back in as I cleared it all up myself, and it is a 90 minute round trip to the shop even in the best of conditions. I knew this was going to be a problem within minutes of seeing the bike. There were test ride pedals on it, and I asked the guy handing me my bike if he wanted his pedals. He went back for a pedal wrench, and as he was removing them, I could see from 10ft away that the left arm was loose. He pulled the pedal off, I walked over and wiggled the crank arm just to be sure. I just blurted out something along the the lines of "Man, what the hell? I could see this when I was standing over there and you are just going to let me roll out of here like that?" My wife just looked and me and said "that would have been expensive and dangerous, yes?" gently caress yeah it would have been. Anyway, I have found several more issues over the last few days. Not going to name and shame though. They have done good work on other things, so I'll just try and get to the bottom of this with the owner.
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Sep 20, 2020 00:04
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If the owner doesn't come to the table then 100% you should name and shame. Ruining someones bike is not ok even if they know how to fix it. Especially when you pointed it out... They should have fixed it on the spot and if they couldn't they should have offered to deliver it to your house
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Sep 20, 2020 00:26
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"go to your local bike shop for service" says the OEM, when your local bike shop is forty five minutes away and cannot affix a crank arm to its spindle
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Sep 20, 2020 01:36
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Clark Nova posted:"go to your local bike shop for service" says the OEM, when your local bike shop is forty five minutes away and cannot affix a crank arm to its spindle This reminds me to do the pinch bolts on the donee bike I’ve been swapping stuff onto 
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Sep 20, 2020 02:42
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Clark Nova posted:"go to your local bike shop for service" says the OEM, when your local bike shop is forty five minutes away and cannot affix a crank arm to its spindle Local bike shop, heh. Sort of related to my lovely build saga. One of the items I needed to do was cut the seat mast. The shop in town was booked up because COVID, could not spare the time to do a cut. And since I try to shop local whenever possible, I asked them to get me a Park SG7.2 saw guide. The price they quoted was the same as any mail order, and I was not in a hurry. As it was Saturday, they said it would be in by Monday. Tuesday I go in to buy a chain, and ask about my saw guide. Nope not it, give us another day. Sunday rolls around and I call ahead before going in. Uh, all of our suppliers are out man, we don't know when we can get one. Thanks for at least letting me know, you had my phone number and could have called. Dipshits. 1 minute later, my online order to Jenson USA is done. Free shipping and the tool is here the next day.
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Sep 20, 2020 04:47
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kimbo305 posted:Under what circumstances would you want one on the DS cup? Default install doesn’t require them, and the bracket FD would provide its own push outboard. Does this explain things clearer? 68mm shell 1X2.5mm NDS 2 X 2.5mm DS 68mm shell 1X2.5mm NDS 1 X 2.5mm DS and E type bracket 73mm shell 1 X2.5mm DS or no spacers and E type bracket  kimbo305 posted:
mikemelbrooks fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Sep 20, 2020 |
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Sep 20, 2020 07:06
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mikemelbrooks posted:I am sorry I miss understood your question ( the wave washer fits over the crankset spindle and allows you to add preload to your bearings}. I'm all clear on Shimano. What about GXP? I don't see any documented accomodation for the bracket mount thickness. kimbo305 posted:I got two Bontrager freehub bodies, a 54t and 108t. The 54 vs 108 distinction in the listings I bought these through was a red herring. I went to install the left one, and realized it was a 10 speed freehub body, while the orange seal one is an 11 speed. The listing did not make that clear, but luckily, it was what I needed. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Sep 20, 2020 |
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Sep 20, 2020 07:12
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So I fiddled around with the derailleur and the chain, but really couldn't make much of it despite the video you guys posted in the OP being very thorough and easy to follow, but ultimately I feel the chain was just hosed from that one time it slipped off and I must've forced it too much trying to get it back on. Fortunately, turns out my bike shop, who had told me to come back on Tuesday morning, which I have off, to replace the chain, rents their store out to a free-lancer Saturdays and Sundays. The store's just 5 minutes from the apartment which is super convenient so I dropped off my bike with the dude and he got everything up and running. I am so so so pleased. I still need to learn to do these simple repairs myself but I figure I'll get there.
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Sep 20, 2020 11:28
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Clark Nova posted:"go to your local bike shop for service" says the OEM, when your local bike shop is forty five minutes away and cannot affix a crank arm to its spindle 3 of my bikes were stolen about a week ago and our LBS just lent me their test cargo bike for 5 days no questions asked until I could get a replacement for school runs. They wouldn't even take my money (I brought whisky and biscotti instead).
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Sep 20, 2020 12:18
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evil_bunnY posted:3 of my bikes were stolen about a week ago evil_bunnY posted:our LBS just lent me their test cargo bike for 5 days no questions asked until I could get a replacement for school runs. They wouldn't even take my money (I brought whisky and biscotti instead).
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Sep 20, 2020 13:06
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kimbo305 posted:I'm all clear on Shimano. https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cranks/165-thorn-130-pcd-ex-bearing-single-crankset-with-integral-bottom-bracket/
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Sep 20, 2020 13:40
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I'm in the process of setting up the front derailleur on my bike. While trying to set wire tension, I accidentally over-tightened the wire by going ham on the barrel adjuster. This was because the wire initially had a ton of slack, but that was intentional, so that I could set the limit screws. Now, when trying to loosen the wire up, I am running into some strange quirks, and, I hope I didn't gently caress anything up seriously! The first issue is that now, the upshift/downshift controls on the brifter no longer seem to usable. As in, I can't move the shift lever (it feels almost frozen), and the shifter thumb button is stuck. In trying to loosen the wire, now, the barrel adjuster is very difficult to turn. Like, I'm legit going to need pliers. And, it's hard to turn in either direction. The bike is a 2010 Trek 1.2, with Shimano Sora components. Hellllp! Is my bike forever hosed? Worst case, can I just leave it in the middle or large ring and treat the bike as if it were running only a single chainring? (Until I have enough saved up to have a LBS fix it, should the bike FUBAR)
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Sep 20, 2020 15:50
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I would try unclamping the cable at the derailleur and starting again. And yes you can just use the limmit screws to keep the chain on which ever sprocket you wish.
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Sep 20, 2020 15:58
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mikemelbrooks posted:The diagram was taken from instructions for a GXP bottom bracket. Sram doesn't seem to officially support it.  People on mtbr seem to have varying success installing chain guides with GXP because there is generally ~2mm extra spindle length on the drive side.
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Sep 20, 2020 16:33
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I've been struggling to adjust the mechanical disc brakes on my front wheel aluminum frame toughroad and bike shops inevitably gently caress it up too. The issue seems to be that there is enough flex in the fork that when the brake pads sit tight against the rotor, turning or standing up to pedal bends the fork and the pads rub audibly. When I adjust them to not rub, it'll brake well enough, but it's not great. Tightening the skewer helps a bit, but still not sure what to do.
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Sep 20, 2020 16:38
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If you don't have it already, compressionless brake housing helps a little.
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Sep 20, 2020 16:56
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Get the posts faced, that'll help. If that doesn't work 100% you'll either have to warranty it or live with it. I've never seen this with a rigid fork myself but a coworker is dealing with this on his gfs bike from a different manufacturer. I have seen this a lot with Suntour suspension forks. I have a Recon fork on order for my wife's Talon 1 for the same reason. Facing it made adjusting the brake literally every time the wheel comes off way easier but the problem persists. A lot of the Talons we build also suffer from the same chronic brake alignment issues. As soon as it comes in the Suntour fork is going in for warranty and the replacement is going up for sale. Kind of a shame because it's an air fork that works pretty good for the price point.
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Sep 20, 2020 16:59
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Mauser posted:I've been struggling to adjust the mechanical disc brakes on my front wheel aluminum frame toughroad and bike shops inevitably gently caress it up too. The issue seems to be that there is enough flex in the fork that when the brake pads sit tight against the rotor, turning or standing up to pedal bends the fork and the pads rub audibly. When I adjust them to not rub, it'll brake well enough, but it's not great. The fork leg almost always flexes more when leaning right, causing rub on the left pad. Increase the distance to the left pad and slightly decrease it to the right pad. Don’t aim for symmetry.
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Sep 20, 2020 17:44
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mikemelbrooks posted:I would try unclamping the cable at the derailleur and starting again. And yes you can just use the limmit screws to keep the chain on which ever sprocket you wish. Thanks for the tip! Using your advice, I loosened up the cable and all of the shifting was restored. After re-adjusting the limit screws, indexing, etc, I think I actually have it all dialed in now. I'd test ride it to confirm, but it's raining. Thanks, Florida!
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Sep 20, 2020 17:45
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mikemelbrooks posted:The diagram was taken from instructions for a GXP bottom bracket. My confusion was over whether the 73 standard was designed knowing there would be a bracket type mount option, and whether manufacturers were able to design their BBs to that option. I had thought chainline would be an issue, but — Given how Shimano 73 installs with a spacer by default, maybe they knew about the bracket mount up front, and they can keep the chainline in place under either option. I just measured the Shimano cups, and they’re the same thickness, not thinner on the DS like I had read somewhere. So to keep pedal symmetry, the DS crank just needs to be narrower than the NDS by that spacer width, assuming the 73 BB shell is symmetric to the frame. GXP lucks out on chainline (or I suppose by design, if you ask SRAM engineers) since that’s fixed on the NDS side. Just need the spindle long enough to poke out past the DS bearing. Digging more, like there’s plenty of people who find the gap when installing GXP and use spacers or washers outboard of the dust cover. So it seems likely the spindle is long enough.
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Sep 20, 2020 18:08
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