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What type of plants are you interested in growing?
This poll is closed.
Perennials! 142 20.91%
Annuals! 30 4.42%
Woody plants! 62 9.13%
Succulent plants! 171 25.18%
Tropical plants! 60 8.84%
Non-vascular plants are the best! 31 4.57%
Screw you, I'd rather eat them! 183 26.95%
Total: 679 votes
[Edit Poll (moderators only)]

 
Oil of Paris
Feb 13, 2004

100% DIRTY

Nap Ghost

showbiz_liz posted:

I'm still sorting through all my photos of the butterfly garden and trying to identify what I can, and I'll definitely post here for advice after. You all have already been super helpful, because the lists of good butterfly garden plants you gave me showed me what to look for. I've already been able to identify a lot of what's there!

For now, here's what it apparently looked like in 2014 when it was first planted and what it looks like now:





First priority is definitely going to be clearing more space for milkweed, which is there but has been pushed to the margins by spreading plants like cat mint and four-o-clocks. We have both common milkweed and swamp milkweed present, and there are some saved seeds in a shed somewhere too. Sounds like the best time to plant milkweed seeds is coming pretty soon.

I'm also definitely going to aggressively prune back those huge buttonbushes on either side (research says late winter for that). I can't believe they weren't even there six years ago.

Yeah holy poo poo what a nice huge area. There's so much that can happen, what a nice project to have. You could plant about whatever the hell you wanted in there lol. Looks like in the OG picture there was some cardinal flower, hope it survived!

Here's some native grasses that butterflies love:

Carex pensylvancia - this would be the primary foundation choice because it's a host plant for dozens of caterpillar species

Schizachyrium scoparium- another great foundational, host for lots of skipper butterflies

Muhlenbergia capillaris - pretty for humans and makes a great thick habitat for pollinators

Sorghastrum nutans- another selection primarily for nesting, but also identified as a very good pollen producer

Panicum virgatum- host for skippers, seeds will also attract birds in the fall

Looking forward to seeing how it comes along!

Petey posted:

I decided to move some pepper plants inside. There’s two (jalapeño and Trinidad perfume) that hadn’t really gotten there yet and I’m not gonna move the buckets inside, but I may try to grow smaller ones in pots. Would I be better served by taking cuttings and trying to root them, or by starting some new seeds?

I'd always rather clone from a nice plant than grow from seed given the choice. Some peppers can be difficult to propagate from cuttings but I feel like jalapeno is definitely easy mode, have no idea about the trinidad pepper

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Petey
Nov 26, 2005

For who knows what is good for a person in life, during the few and meaningless days they pass through like a shadow? Who can tell them what will happen under the sun after they are gone?
Thanks. My jalapeño got a little hosed up when I overfertilized it. All the guides I keep reading says “only propagate from a perfect plant,” more or less, so I’m wary and unsure how well a (healthy) cutting from a plant that had some Pain will go.

Oil of Paris
Feb 13, 2004

100% DIRTY

Nap Ghost
Well it’s cloning from the genetics not the current state. if it’s a nice cultivar and was fine pre fertilizing I wouldn’t fret over it, especially if the cutting itself is healthy. Also, what’s the worst that could happen, the propagated plant dies and you’re back where you started from? I’d just go for it, the stakes are so low lol

Same deal with the seeds, just pop a couple in and see where fate takes you. No reason you can’t do both simultaneously and see which turns out better

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Something something epigenetics.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

Jaded Burnout posted:

Something something epigenetics.

LAMARCK VINDICATED

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

So my normal oak tree dropped this monster:

https://imgur.com/7hcJWeW

I've never seen an acorn even close to this big (apart from that one kind of oak tree that has big ones, this is a normal rear end live oak). I assume it's a mutant or something. What are the chances I can get it to grow and will I get a cool x-men tree? Any tips on getting acorns to sprout?

D-Pad fucked around with this message at 04:49 on Sep 19, 2020

showbiz_liz
Jun 2, 2008

D-Pad posted:

So my normal oak tree dropped this monster:

https://imgur.com/7hcJWeW

I've never seen an acorn even close to this big (apart from that one kind of oak tree that has big ones, this is a normal rear end live oak). I assume it's a mutant or something. What are the chances I can get it to grow and will I get a cool x-men tree? Any tips on getting acorns to sprout?

Honestly doesn't look too far out of the ordinary for me (but I grew up in a very oak-heavy area). Wikipedia says the normal range across various species is .5 to 2.5 inches long, and this seems to be within that range.

RickRogers
Jun 21, 2020

Woh, is that a thing I like??

D-Pad posted:

So my normal oak tree dropped this monster:

https://imgur.com/7hcJWeW

I've never seen an acorn even close to this big (apart from that one kind of oak tree that has big ones, this is a normal rear end live oak). I assume it's a mutant or something. What are the chances I can get it to grow and will I get a cool x-men tree? Any tips on getting acorns to sprout?

Might have some kind of parasitic insect inside causing the size difference. Have a check for small bore holes.

As for growing them, well European Q.robur seems to grow wild very easily in a wide variety of normal soils.
Probably just leave it half to 2/3 buried in moist potting compost in your window, with a polythene bag over it until it germinates.
Might be some species need winter like conditions followed by a spring to be most successful, but probably need to ident your oak and do some research to be sure.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

RickRogers posted:

Might have some kind of parasitic insect inside causing the size difference. Have a check for small bore holes.

As for growing them, well European Q.robur seems to grow wild very easily in a wide variety of normal soils.
Probably just leave it half to 2/3 buried in moist potting compost in your window, with a polythene bag over it until it germinates.
Might be some species need winter like conditions followed by a spring to be most successful, but probably need to ident your oak and do some research to be sure.

Here it is next to an average size acorn from the same tree. This is a live oak in Texas I have never seen anything even approaching the size of this thing in my life. Can't find any bore holes either. We'll see what happens when I plant it.

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

Petey posted:

Thanks. My jalapeño got a little hosed up when I overfertilized it. All the guides I keep reading says “only propagate from a perfect plant,” more or less, so I’m wary and unsure how well a (healthy) cutting from a plant that had some Pain will go.

A weakened plant will propagate at a lower rate, but if it’s just some fertilizer burn I wouldn’t worry about it. I trim 1/2 of each leaf off anyways to reduce moisture loss while it’s rooting

RickRogers
Jun 21, 2020

Woh, is that a thing I like??

lil poopendorfer posted:

A weakened plant will propagate at a lower rate, but if it’s just some fertilizer burn I wouldn’t worry about it. I trim 1/2 of each leaf off anyways to reduce moisture loss while it’s rooting

I have managed to successfully produce one Korean chili plant (tepin?) And one ghost pepper from 20 seeds each this summer. The seeds all sprouted, but I am a terrible and forgetful plant parent. I may have used too rough a potting compost and it took them ages to get good roots.

Anybody got tips for overwintering these poor miracles and can I take cuttings like tomatoes in spring?

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost


I got a grow light and it's been like easy mode for propogation, I just put them in a sealed Tupperware and mist a couple times a week. I've been able to crank the intensity of light they receive without worrying about them cooking, like w the sun.

Phillips grow bulbs are like $18 shipped, worth it for cuttings/seedlings alone imo, nevermind your other plants

lil poopendorfer fucked around with this message at 13:57 on Sep 20, 2020

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

RickRogers posted:

I have managed to successfully produce one Korean chili plant (tepin?) And one ghost pepper from 20 seeds each this summer. The seeds all sprouted, but I am a terrible and forgetful plant parent. I may have used too rough a potting compost and it took them ages to get good roots.

Anybody got tips for overwintering these poor miracles and can I take cuttings like tomatoes in spring?

Something that helped my aji this year was a Dixie cup over them, it created a little greenhouse. I didn't figure this out until I lost most of them

lil poopendorfer posted:

I got a grow light and it's been like easy mode for propogation, I just put them in a sealed Tupperware and mist a couple times a week. I've been able to crank the intensity of light they receive without worrying about them cooking, like w the sun.

Phillips grow bulbs are like $18 shipped, worth it for cuttings/seedlings alone imo, nevermind your other plants

Is there a post of yours explaining this better? Sounds amazing!

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
Been meaning to grab some GE grow bulbs later in the fall.

1) is the least powerful (16 micromoles/second, 9w) bulb adequate?

I’m planning to consolidate my houseplants to an IKEA IVAR shelving unit in front of a window and was hoping to give them supplementary light through the winter. The lighting in that nook really decreases in winter as the Earth shifts. Also I want to get more growth and coloration from my crotons and boost growth in my bonsai (among other things mentioned below). Figured 1-2 bulbs in clamp fixtures for each shelf (doing 2-3 shelves) would be plenty.

GE and other brands make much more powerful bulbs (38 micromol/sec, 54, etc) that are more expensive but also seem like they might be too much for the plants.

2) how much attention should I pay to light spectrum? GE makes balanced/full spectrum bulbs that they call “good for anything/any life stage” and advanced red spectrum bulbs for fruiting/flowering.

Should I be planning on getting some red spectrum bulbs for spring or whatever? I don’t have any fruiting plants but a bunch of my succulents flowered this summer/are still flowering.

I’ve seen recommendations from people who switch to/add in more red-spectrum bulbs in spring/summer but that seems to be focused on flowering and fruiting plants.

Aside from a lot of succulents and cacti I’ve got a bunch of spekboom (p. afra) prebonsai/propagates, like seven varietals of croton, two small grafted ficus bonsai, some schefflera prebonsai, some euphorbia lactea, and a medium-to-largeish Monstera adansonii. Probably add a couple more plants including an M. deliciosa before the end of Nov.

Ultimately I want to do whatever is best for the health and longevity of the plants, so if that means shifting their environment with the seasons at least a little bit I’ll do that (although I am trying to force some winter growth in all of the prebonsai), but I don’t want to like force flowering either or- alternatively- force the plant to think its eternally the same season or whatever. I don’t want to confuse them by blasting them with light in winter and potentially less light once spring hits, etc. TLDR- I wanna do what’s best for the plants.

Before anybody asks, yes I plan to get a humidifier for the plants that really need/benefit from it, I do not intend to simply bake my plants in the dry climate of my New England home (my Petra crotons dumped a bunch of leaves last winter when the heat started coming on), and I’m not against picking up a grow tent/light later in the fall if I really need to/wanna get intensive with my tropicals.

trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Sep 20, 2020

candystarlight
Jun 5, 2017

I. M. Gei posted:

I need a battery sprayer. It doesn’t have to be fancy, but I will be spraying about 20 trees with 2 or 3 or 4 kinds of pesticide/fungicide, so it’s gotta be able to stand up to that at least. I’d also like to not have to recharge the battery too many times, although a better battery might push things outside of my price range.

Are there any particular sprayers y’all recommend?

I really like my Ryobi 18 volt sprayer.

I have the $79.99 model that comes with the battery+charger. The bonus is that it is compatible with all their other 18 volt batteries so if you have an issue with run time you can buy a spare and pop a new battery on pretty easily. It holds about a gallon of product.

It can weed spray the entirety of my desert-scaped front and back yard without dying (I'd imagine the rocked area to be about 3k sq ft if that helps at all). I do have to re-fill it about 3 times to completely treat both yards.

I've had mine just over two years with no issue. I do rinse well after each use so I don't run into corrosion issues and to make sure there's no product interactions.

Full disclosure: I am also a die-hard Ryobi fan. My garage is full of their poo poo, from saws to pressure washers. My mom jokes that my first born will be named Ryobi. I may look into pitching that to them further if and when that time comes.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Ok Comboomer posted:

Been meaning to grab some GE grow bulbs later in the fall.

1) is the least powerful (16 micromoles/second, 9w) bulb adequate?

I have three gooseneck fixtures with the GE 9w bulbs in them above each of the windows in my living room—at the distance it sounds like you're talking about they should be plenty bright for supplementing the reduced light your window will get in the winter.

I'm using the full spectrum bulbs both because the red spectrum bulbs make everything ugly and because I almost exclusively have succulents. The red spectrum bulbs are supposed to help get plants to flower but if you aren't having any issues/that isn't your focus I would just stick with full spectrum, which includes red light.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Sep 20, 2020

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

candystarlight posted:

Full disclosure: I am also a die-hard Ryobi fan. My garage is full of their poo poo, from saws to pressure washers. My mom jokes that my first born will be named Ryobi. I may look into pitching that to them further if and when that time comes.

Do you have small hands? A few years back an ex I lived with was looking to get power tools and apparently Ryobi is the #1 recommendation for women/the smaller-handed.


Wallet posted:

I have nine goosenecks in my living room above my windows with the GE 9w bulbs in them—at the distance it sounds like you're talking about they should be plenty bright for supplementing the reduced light your window will get in the winter. The red spectrum bulbs are supposed to help get plants to flower but if you aren't having any issues/that isn't your focus I would just stick with full spectrum, which includes red light.

cheers, thanks.

candystarlight
Jun 5, 2017

Ok Comboomer posted:

Do you have small hands? A few years back an ex I lived with was looking to get power tools and apparently Ryobi is the #1 recommendation for women/the smaller-handed.

Interesting! I'm pretty sure I have normal woman-sized hands. In gloves, I wear the M/L, never anything smaller than M.

Without derailing, my husband also likes the Ryobi products. We compared hand sizes and ours are identical. He specifically asked me not to call his hands "Trumpian".

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

candystarlight posted:

Interesting! I'm pretty sure I have normal woman-sized hands. In gloves, I wear the M/L, never anything smaller than M.

Without derailing, my husband also likes the Ryobi products. We compared hand sizes and ours are identical. He specifically asked me not to call his hands "Trumpian".

How’s his dong? Does it resemble a certain secondary Super Mario character?

“Trumpian Dong” would be a good forums name....

But yeah, it’s apparently a niche that Ryobi started actively pursuing a few years back, and why they’ve sponsored a bunch of well-known lady renovators over the last decade.

Also a lot of their stuff has historically been designed for the Japanese market as well which generally tends to skew smaller and prefer smaller products (don’t go to tool forums looking for more info on this tho, unless you wanna see some boomers get crypto-racist about East Asian people).

Ryobi Ltd. itself is actually a much bigger company that makes auto parts and stuff. They license the Ryobi Tools brand to Techtronic in HK who also make Milwaukee tools (hence the market segmentation) and a bunch of popular vacuum brands.

candystarlight
Jun 5, 2017

Ok Comboomer posted:

How’s his dong? Does it resemble a certain secondary Super Mario character?

“Trumpian Dong” would be a good forums name....

But yeah, it’s apparently a niche that Ryobi started actively pursuing a few years back, and why they’ve sponsored a bunch of well-known lady renovators over the last decade.

Also a lot of their stuff has historically been designed for the Japanese market as well which generally tends to skew smaller and prefer smaller products (don’t go to tool forums looking for more info on this tho, unless you wanna see some boomers get crypto-racist about East Asian people).

Ryobi Ltd. itself is actually a much bigger company that makes auto parts and stuff. They license the Ryobi Tools brand to Techtronic in HK who also make Milwaukee tools (hence the market segmentation) and a bunch of popular vacuum brands.

LOL!

Agreed. Make it so.

Very interesting! I had noticed on IG but hadn't thought anything of it. I also had no idea they make Milwaukee!

I also have their Barbie sized lawn mower. It's comical, but works for my 10sq ft patch of grass.

showbiz_liz
Jun 2, 2008
First day of really working in the butterfly garden as opposed to just taking photos and exploring. We decided to start with the bed that's overflowing with four-o-clocks and has a few scattered milkweed plants. The four-o-clocks had spread so much that I didn't even know there were pavers edging the plot. Yanked out about four square feet of those, plus a bunch of violet root clumps that were hiding underneath, and a couple of young trees. Tomorrow we're going back to finish prepping the cleared part of the bed and then plant milkweed seeds (which we have a whole bucket of).

And of course this is one fraction of one bed out of many, many beds.

Comrade Cakewalk
Nov 4, 2006
Win a cake for the motherland.


What is going on with my lantana? Several of them have these crazy clusters I've never seen before.

Oil of Paris
Feb 13, 2004

100% DIRTY

Nap Ghost
Looks like they’re going to seed to me

Oil of Paris
Feb 13, 2004

100% DIRTY

Nap Ghost

showbiz_liz posted:

First day of really working in the butterfly garden as opposed to just taking photos and exploring. We decided to start with the bed that's overflowing with four-o-clocks and has a few scattered milkweed plants. The four-o-clocks had spread so much that I didn't even know there were pavers edging the plot. Yanked out about four square feet of those, plus a bunch of violet root clumps that were hiding underneath, and a couple of young trees. Tomorrow we're going back to finish prepping the cleared part of the bed and then plant milkweed seeds (which we have a whole bucket of).

And of course this is one fraction of one bed out of many, many beds.

Have you found anything interesting/unexpected?

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

Something that helped my aji this year was a Dixie cup over them, it created a little greenhouse. I didn't figure this out until I lost most of them


Is there a post of yours explaining this better? Sounds amazing!

Sure, the trick of successful cuttings is maintaining high enough humidity (as close to 100% as possible) to prevent the plant from transpiring all of its water. Commercial Growers do this in propagation tents with timed misters and all other kinds of stuff. The DIY way to maintain high humidity while the cutting roots is to enclose it in a ziploc bag. But if you keep the plant in any kind of sustained sun, it’ll overheat. So cuttings have to be kept in indirect light, and they take weeks to root. High humidity and low airflow invite fungal problems over time.

Root growth is driven by the leaves generating carbohydrates and other photosynthates so I propose that more light would lead to faster rooting. You can’t really do this in the sun bc of overheating but with an led grow light that doesn’t generate heat, there’s some wiggle room.

Admittedly, i only have been playing around with this for 3 weeks but I’ve got a quince & Gmelina cutting that seem to have rooted in that time (ie: have shown new growth a/o can survive uncovered). For a commercia grower it’s easier and cheaper to do it en masse in a propagation tent but for us home growers with limited space, I think it could help a lot.

TLDR: take cutting, prune terminal bud, reduce leaves 30-50%, use routing hormone if you want, pot in sphagnum, water, spray inside of Tupperware a couple times and seal plant in the container upside down so lid is on the ground (so the lid doesn’t obscure the light). Place under grow light, and open to mist every 2-3 days.

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost
heres a couple pictures. I'm looking for slimmer Tupperware so they don't take as much space



lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

Ok Comboomer posted:

Been meaning to grab some GE grow bulbs later in the fall.

1) is the least powerful (16 micromoles/second, 9w) bulb adequate?

I’m planning to consolidate my houseplants to an IKEA IVAR shelving unit in front of a window and was hoping to give them supplementary light through the winter. The lighting in that nook really decreases in winter as the Earth shifts. Also I want to get more growth and coloration from my crotons and boost growth in my bonsai (among other things mentioned below). Figured 1-2 bulbs in clamp fixtures for each shelf (doing 2-3 shelves) would be plenty.

GE and other brands make much more powerful bulbs (38 micromol/sec, 54, etc) that are more expensive but also seem like they might be too much for the plants.

2) how much attention should I pay to light spectrum? GE makes balanced/full spectrum bulbs that they call “good for anything/any life stage” and advanced red spectrum bulbs for fruiting/flowering.

Should I be planning on getting some red spectrum bulbs for spring or whatever? I don’t have any fruiting plants but a bunch of my succulents flowered this summer/are still flowering.

I’ve seen recommendations from people who switch to/add in more red-spectrum bulbs in spring/summer but that seems to be focused on flowering and fruiting plants.

Aside from a lot of succulents and cacti I’ve got a bunch of spekboom (p. afra) prebonsai/propagates, like seven varietals of croton, two small grafted ficus bonsai, some schefflera prebonsai, some euphorbia lactea, and a medium-to-largeish Monstera adansonii. Probably add a couple more plants including an M. deliciosa before the end of Nov.

Ultimately I want to do whatever is best for the health and longevity of the plants, so if that means shifting their environment with the seasons at least a little bit I’ll do that (although I am trying to force some winter growth in all of the prebonsai), but I don’t want to like force flowering either or- alternatively- force the plant to think its eternally the same season or whatever. I don’t want to confuse them by blasting them with light in winter and potentially less light once spring hits, etc. TLDR- I wanna do what’s best for the plants.

Before anybody asks, yes I plan to get a humidifier for the plants that really need/benefit from it, I do not intend to simply bake my plants in the dry climate of my New England home (my Petra crotons dumped a bunch of leaves last winter when the heat started coming on), and I’m not against picking up a grow tent/light later in the fall if I really need to/wanna get intensive with my tropicals.

I got the Philips bulbs because the angle is a little larger (60° v 50°) and it's cheaper. They run hotter but that's a good thing for me since it's mostly for overwintering. Plus they're cheaper. The more powerful bulb will make your plans grow quicker .. its the difference between them growing over the winter vs just surviving.

IDK how much surface area you have to cover but sounds like the ge 2' fixture would be a good bet. I don't think one bulb would be enough otherwise. The flowering lights are really just for vegetable gardening or weed

Comrade Cakewalk
Nov 4, 2006
Win a cake for the motherland.

Comrade Cakewalk posted:



What is going on with my lantana? Several of them have these crazy clusters I've never seen before.
I finally found a very similar picture of lantana on google and they said it was aster yellows :( I'll show to the pic to some local plant dudes before I rip out my lantana...

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Comrade Cakewalk posted:

I finally found a very similar picture of lantana on google and they said it was aster yellows :( I'll show to the pic to some local plant dudes before I rip out my lantana...

I have yet to see anything that can kill lantanta. I think it'll be fine. Looks to me like they are just setting seed.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




lil poopendorfer posted:

Sure, the trick of successful cuttings is maintaining high enough humidity (as close to 100% as possible) to prevent the plant from transpiring all of its water. Commercial Growers do this in propagation tents with timed misters and all other kinds of stuff. The DIY way to maintain high humidity while the cutting roots is to enclose it in a ziploc bag. But if you keep the plant in any kind of sustained sun, it’ll overheat. So cuttings have to be kept in indirect light, and they take weeks to root. High humidity and low airflow invite fungal problems over time.

Root growth is driven by the leaves generating carbohydrates and other photosynthates so I propose that more light would lead to faster rooting. You can’t really do this in the sun bc of overheating but with an led grow light that doesn’t generate heat, there’s some wiggle room.

Admittedly, i only have been playing around with this for 3 weeks but I’ve got a quince & Gmelina cutting that seem to have rooted in that time (ie: have shown new growth a/o can survive uncovered). For a commercia grower it’s easier and cheaper to do it en masse in a propagation tent but for us home growers with limited space, I think it could help a lot.

TLDR: take cutting, prune terminal bud, reduce leaves 30-50%, use routing hormone if you want, pot in sphagnum, water, spray inside of Tupperware a couple times and seal plant in the container upside down so lid is on the ground (so the lid doesn’t obscure the light). Place under grow light, and open to mist every 2-3 days.

There's also air layering, if you have physical access to the mother plant. Lee Valley even make little plastic pods you can use for that, but apparently a ziplock works too.

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

Hello horticulturists! DIY Secret Santa signups are open! Please do not send Audrey 2 to your santees.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3941260

HELLO LADIES
Feb 15, 2008
:3 -$5 :3

corgski posted:

Please do not send Audrey 2 to your santees.

welp i'm hosed :(

no but seriously uhhh, would CPs be eligible?

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

HELLO LADIES posted:

welp i'm hosed :(

no but seriously uhhh, would CPs be eligible?

I don't think I know what CPs stands for in this case.

Bi-la kaifa
Feb 4, 2011

Space maggots.

Carnivorous plants

I'd imagine that environmental laws would prevent some species crossing international and some provincial/state/territorial borders. That said, if someone from BC or maybe Canada wants some random cuttings and bulbs from my garden I'd be down to sign up.

Bi-la kaifa fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Sep 22, 2020

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

Ah, I don't see why not!

uranium grass
Jan 15, 2005

Any begonia fanatics among us? I have one I'm struggling to ID because the leaves are still juvenile.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Bi-la kaifa posted:

Carnivorous plants

I'd imagine that environmental laws would prevent some species crossing international and some provincial/state/territorial borders. That said, if someone from BC or maybe Canada wants some random cuttings and bulbs from my garden I'd be down to sign up.

Goddammit I have a baby about to arrive. Don't tempt me to sign up for this regardless.

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

Lead out in cuffs posted:

There's also air layering, if you have physical access to the mother plant. Lee Valley even make little plastic pods you can use for that, but apparently a ziplock works too.

Yes, absolutely but you’re limited to a window of Maybe 2-3 months annually. Cuttings give us something to do until then :f5:

B33rChiller
Aug 18, 2011




Hey jade plant people, I have a strange situation. I've been attempting to propagate a hobbit jade, but every one I start from a leaf grows without tubular leaves. They end up growing to form leaves that are smaller than a regular jade, but shaped roughly the same. I have a branch cutting that has taken root, and it seems to be producing the tubular leaves I'm lookong for.

Why do I seem to get a different plant when I propagate from leaves?

Easier to use youtube these days than imgur. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKzbYban1yQ This hopefully shows what I'm talking about better than my description above.

B33rChiller fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Sep 23, 2020

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showbiz_liz
Jun 2, 2008

B33rChiller posted:

Hey jade plant people, I have a strange situation. I've been attempting to propagate a hobbit jade, but every one I start from a leaf grows without tubular leaves. They end up growing to form leaves that are smaller than a regular jade, but shaped roughly the same. I have a branch cutting that has taken root, and it seems to be producing the tubular leaves I'm lookong for.

Why do I seem to get a different plant when I propagate from leaves?

This person had the exact same issue. Reading through the thread, it sounds like hobbit jades are a recent and unstable mutation, possibly caused by a bacterium, and what you're seeing is very normal, including the different results from branch and leaf cuttings.

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