|
I had the soft top on my NA replaced last fall. Kept it up all winter to stretch. I still basically can't get it to attach back after lowering it, without another friend pulling as hard as they can. Is there a trick to this? It's frustrating as hell.
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2020 18:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 13:28 |
|
|
Park it in the sun
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2020 18:02
|
|
|
You can extend the latches by opening then and popping out a tab which exposes a threaded rod. But the same thing happened to me, new top was hard as gently caress to close for quite a while, needed two people and muscle sometimes.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2020 18:11
|
|
|
Phone posted:Park it in the sun This doesn't really help putting it up on a regular basis though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2020 18:11
|
|
|
ShaneB posted:This doesn't really help putting it up on a regular basis though. It does, eventually. When it gets hotter, it stretches out more easily and will deform a bit to make it fit better.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2020 20:39
|
|
|
Elysium posted:You can extend the latches by opening then and popping out a tab which exposes a threaded rod. I think you may have just saved my relationship with this car.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2020 23:22
|
|
|
I suspect my clutch master cylinder went out on Friday. I noticed as I was driving home from work that the clutch was engaging closer and closer to the floor. It got to the point where the transmission was super notchy on every shift, then it got to where I couldn't get it into second from first. Then I couldn't get it into first from a stop. I pumped the pedal a few times and that gave me some clutching ability, but I basically had to run 3 stop signs to get home because I was so close. I'm really hoping it was the master or slave cylinders, because if that FM happy meal clutch poo poo the bed I'm going to be a very sad panda. I just wonder why the stupid things would fail so quickly. The master has like 3k miles on it and the slave maybe 600. I wish I could buy nicer stuff, but the exedy master and slaves are like $16 and $7 on rock auto, and those are the nice ones!
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2020 11:47
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:I'm 5'8" and it'll be w2w'd. I just looked and the rear humps have already been removed. Interesting thing is my S2000 has a Sparco Circuit, same as this car. I guess there was a revision, the seats are different sizes and the seat padding is easily 2x as thick in the Miata one. Probably just test swap the S2000 Circuit into the car if I need more space than the seat pad swap gave me, we will see. At 5'8" I'd imagine you would have some head room even with a full cage. Did the previous owner have the seat bolted directly to the floor on the front cross-member or bolted directly to the floor to the rear of the front cross-member? I ask because I'm 6'2" and sat in an NA chasis with the drivers Sparco Circuit seat bolted to the floor aft of the front cross-member on stock Sparco rails and I had a ton of head room. Off topic but does anyone know what the inner diameter size of the fuel line that connects to the fuel filter on an NB Chasis is and what kind of quick disconnect fittings I need? I broke my fittings changing the fuel filter and my car as slowly but surely leaked gas all over the floor.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2020 18:13
|
|
|
It is bolted on top of the crossmember in the front and to the floor in the rear. After sitting in a couple of SMs yesterday I can confirm that I was just spoiled with headroom before. In my car I've got an inch above my helmet to the roof skin, can tilt my head wherever forward/right, and hit the cage padding if I tilt my head left about an inch. I'm still going to work on sitting lower, but it was basically the same case in the other two cars.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2020 18:37
|
|
|
BloodBag posted:I suspect my clutch master cylinder went out on Friday. I noticed as I was driving home from work that the clutch was engaging closer and closer to the floor. It got to the point where the transmission was super notchy on every shift, then it got to where I couldn't get it into second from first. Then I couldn't get it into first from a stop. I pumped the pedal a few times and that gave me some clutching ability, but I basically had to run 3 stop signs to get home because I was so close. If it behaves like that, it doesn't sound like the clutch itself is the problem but very much like hydraulics. It's strange, I've had a 200000+ km NA and now a 160000km NB and from the looks of it they are both still on the original clutch cylinders and I have had zero clutch issues with either of them (except for squeaky noises between slave cylinder and fork, but that's more just regular maintenance). And then there are others that go through clutch slave cylinders quicker than brake pads.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2020 07:52
|
|
|
Wibla posted:Did it stop after you turned it off and on again? I had something similar happen on my 2015 Mazda3 Optimum (2.2 Diesel auto), was a busted exhaust pressure sensor sending the ECU into some crazy safe mode with the entire dash lighting up with errors and poo poo. I didn't try turning it back on once I parked (definitely a troubleshooting step I will take in the future...), was worried about hurting my poor car any further than the drive across town. I need to get used to the few perks of owning a new car ex. a warranty, and free tows from mazda - interesting that the dash gets unrelated lights from certain errors
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2020 23:53
|
|
|
Yeah... They've got all that loving computerized diagnostic poo poo in these newer cars - but no, gotta SPAM THE LIGHTS when a sensor goes to hell. Seriously stupid poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2020 23:58
|
|
|
I'm starting it tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2020 00:10
|
|
|
Car ran today as promised. Went to reflush the cooling system since I was getting weird coolant temp spikes and the drain plug cross threaded and broke. I can't tell you how disappointed with Mishimoto that they decided to use an aluminum plug on aluminum threads. I'll be calling tomorrow to see if they'll send me a new bung to weld in.
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2020 02:36
|
|
|
BloodBag posted:I suspect my clutch master cylinder went out on Friday. I noticed as I was driving home from work that the clutch was engaging closer and closer to the floor. It got to the point where the transmission was super notchy on every shift, then it got to where I couldn't get it into second from first. Then I couldn't get it into first from a stop. I pumped the pedal a few times and that gave me some clutching ability, but I basically had to run 3 stop signs to get home because I was so close. Sounds exactly like one of the two. Could the hose have popped off if you did it recently? Maybe missed an air bubble?
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2020 04:55
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhjJtRB8hRI The smoke in southern California needs to go away so i can get this turd back out on the road. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2020 05:33
|
|
|
Russian Bear posted:Sounds exactly like one of the two. Could the hose have popped off if you did it recently? Maybe missed an air bubble? I ordered new LUK brand master and slave cylinders. I had the entire system out and it is remotely possible I missed a bubble, but that should have manifested sooner than now. Also the clutch fluid is really black & nasty looking and was when I took the MC off before I painted the car. I'm thinking it had lovely seals before and the FM clutch just accelerated the death.
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2020 15:20
|
|
|
There's a new Regular Car review of the NB https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9ai4GSFcIY I don't think I've ever felt as personally attacked as now.  Today I was actually going to check out a squeal I've been hearing from the rear brakes. Turns out the pad is almost completely gone even though I replaced it less than 2 years ago when I refurbished the calipers. And the new rubber boot is also gone, and the rocker which looked like was just starting to bubble from normal angles, is completely hosed from the bottom. Woo. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2020 16:01
|
|
|
A guy I've known for almost 30 years wants to sell his Miata. I had planned to go looking for a used Miata next year, which would have given me time to save up $10-15k for a relatively nice one. This one that my buddy is selling is not so nice - 2001 Miata LS, 115k miles, and it's starting to show little gremlins. Ones that worry me in particular are that he says it's hard to shift into second without bad noises unless the clutch is all the way to the floor, and that the rear suspension is sagging a little bit and will hit the stops when you go over a pothole. I like driving cars but I don't like working on cars. Do those sound like things that are going to turn into expensive repairs in the next 15k miles / two or three years? If I can make this thing last for just that long without expensive repairs, I'll likely have saved enough cash to upgrade to an ND.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2020 03:43
|
|
|
Zorak of Michigan posted:A guy I've known for almost 30 years wants to sell his Miata. I had planned to go looking for a used Miata next year, which would have given me time to save up $10-15k for a relatively nice one. This one that my buddy is selling is not so nice - 2001 Miata LS, 115k miles, and it's starting to show little gremlins. Ones that worry me in particular are that he says it's hard to shift into second without bad noises unless the clutch is all the way to the floor, and that the rear suspension is sagging a little bit and will hit the stops when you go over a pothole. I like driving cars but I don't like working on cars. Do those sound like things that are going to turn into expensive repairs in the next 15k miles / two or three years? If I can make this thing last for just that long without expensive repairs, I'll likely have saved enough cash to upgrade to an ND. Any other gears or just 2nd? Transmission might need a rebuild, clutch hydraulics could be iffy, could just be a worn 2nd gear syncro. Could swap in a known good transmission, 5-speeds are cheap. Rear shocks are probably toast, and suspension could probably use a refresh all around. Miata's are generally cheap to keep running, even with the issues you've described. No idea what it'd cost to have done at a shop though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2020 03:53
|
|
|
Buddy says it's just second right now, but my theoretical knowledge of transmissions makes me think that it's probably a sign of creeping badness. Hrrm. This is deeply conflicting for me.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2020 04:19
|
|
|
Zorak of Michigan posted:it's hard to shift into second without bad noises unless the clutch is all the way to the floor How does he normally shift into gears? Like the poster above I dont know how much a shop would cost to fix but the transmission looks the most expensive. I wouldn’t worry too much about the mileage. Suspension should be an easy fix. Still though you’ll likely be able to sell it for what you paid and maybe even put into it when you upgrade.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2020 04:21
|
|
|
Bought a 1998 NB a few weeks ago, was previously owned by a 70yr old lady who loved it for 18 years but didn't exactly keep it pristine. It was apparently a demo car for Mazda so one of the first in the country. £900 with a hard top (slightly torn soft top underneath), 71k miles and in need of a few bits doing. Did a full service on it a couple of weeks back to get it ready for a road trip and aside from a knocking lower suspension bush it behaved perfectly. Definitely going to need a bit of arch work and a bit of the typical front structure hacking out and replacing. Hopefully I can get that done soonish along with the lower suspension bush. It absolutely loved the curvy roads I took it on for the trip, definitely a noisy little twat on the motorway at anything above 65mph though. I can definitely see why these are rated, great fun.  Beep beep
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2020 16:46
|
|
|
One of us, one of us! For 900 it's a steal, even if it it's a bit rough. I wouldn't worry too much about cosmetics and enjoy stress free driving and parking  mobby_6kl posted:Today I was actually going to check out a squeal I've been hearing from the rear brakes. Turns out the pad is almost completely gone even though I replaced it less than 2 years ago when I refurbished the calipers. And the new rubber boot is also gone, and the rocker which looked like was just starting to bubble from normal angles, is completely hosed from the bottom. Woo. Either there was something wrong with the rubber (how did the one above just disintegrate in 2 years?) or the rear end in a top hat that refurbished the caliper two years ago (yes, it was me) somehow hosed it up. A reman caliper is like $60 so not the end of the world of course. Can anyone confirm if N067-26-71X is the right part# for the sport rear left caliper? It seems to be the right one but I can't confirm it for sure anywhere. E: Also what the hell is this thing? I also checked the right side (where the pads were fine) and it seems that some kind of plastic shield came off. The car was only on the jack so I didn't stick my head under it. 
mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Sep 21, 2020 |
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2020 17:50
|
|
|
mobby_6kl posted:
That plastic shield covers up the fuel tank EVAP canister and the fuel filter. It's just held in with simple push tab plastic fasteners.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2020 20:50
|
|
|
I think this trans seal was due for replacement.  Temporary drain plug until it gets fixed proper. Grade 8 7/16-20. 
um excuse me fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Sep 22, 2020 |
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2020 00:49
|
|
|
um excuse me posted:Temporary drain plug until it gets fixed proper. Grade 8 7/16-20. The one on the Koyo radiator is worse. Straight thread, o-ring flange, with a "2 flats on a rounded head" plug. Lame as poo poo. I ended up filing the head into a 13mm hex shape.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2020 03:38
|
|
|
Yea for the next Mishimoto bung I get I think I'm going straight to a shop to get helicoiled in a larger size so I don't have to worry about stripping it. Also switch to a stainless drain plug. Mishimoto has to know about this issue. They've been in the game long enough.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2020 14:13
|
|
|
Miatas are the poo poo. As my sole form of transportation, my lil guy delivers all them smiles per mile, it’s saccharine Easy to take the lil guy for granted, until you drive a normie vehicle a while
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2020 03:55
|
|
|
Virgil Vox posted:How does he normally shift into gears? I appreciate the input from you and TrueChaos. I decided that the opportunity to buy a Miata from someone I know and trust, even if it wasn't my dream car, was going to be a better deal than trusting that the right rando would appear when I was ready. It's mine now. Well, it will be, once the dealer that did the PPI finishes doing the maintenance I asked for. Then when I have it back I'll rebuild the shifter, which looks like an amazingly doable task, and replace the latches on the soft top. I'm not sure what it is about the Miata experience that makes me trust my screwdriving skills, but I'll take it. I'll post pics when I can but imagine Olympic Mathlete's, but with a lot more wear on the paint from being a former Massachusetts car.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2020 21:13
|
|
|
I have an 06 NC that I couldn't resist fiddling with and I think I made a mess. I took out the seats so I could install a new carpet and seat covers (I'll take pics later once it stops raining, I think it looks pretty good), but after putting the seats back in I'm getting an airbag trouble code, "48." From what google has told me this is related to a passenger seat weight sensor, and I would need a mechanic or dealer level diagnostic tool to re-zero it so it calibrates right. Am I on the right track, or am I looking at the wrong fix? All the connectors are snug and in the right place, and I'm not doing anything crazy like the last time I swapped seats in another car (that involved having to re-pin the wiring harness for the seat, it was such a pain in the rear end).
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2020 18:20
|
|
|
New post to show off: I have a (not)limited-edition NC Miata.   I debated going with leather seats but decided against it, I just don't like leather interiors (I tolerate it with my mercury but for something that gets sun exposure all the time, no way). In real life the red isn't as bright as it looks in pictures. Next up is a red soft top some time next month and maybe some silver accents on the exterior. And yes I ended up getting an auto because it was available, affordable, and wasn't trashed like all the stick miatas in my area. As Nero Danced fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Oct 1, 2020 |
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2020 14:41
|
|
|
Is anyone pretty familiar with tuning BP4Ws? Just want a lookover in terms of how conservative it is, it is set up to make a flat 220whp from 5.5k to 7.5k   
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2020 17:56
|
|
|
One more post because I'm indecisive as hell. Which one, black or silver: 
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2020 14:26
|
|
|
Black.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2020 16:11
|
|
|
You gotta go with the black windshield frame. I'm not entirely sure why they did the silver on the Fiats other than to call back to the original models...
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2020 16:36
|
|
|
Black.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2020 17:02
|
|
|
Black
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2020 17:11
|
|
|
Silver, it matches the wheels and roll hoops and looks especially nice with the red seats. All black is boring.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2020 17:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 13:28 |
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:You gotta go with the black windshield frame. I'm not entirely sure why they did the silver on the Fiats other than to call back to the original models... Actually I was thinking of the sky/solstice twins when I got the idea. Anyways, I already peeled it off because I wasn't happy with the way I sprayed it, so it's back to black again. I might try the silver again at some point, but I'm still waiting to hear about a red top and if that works out then it might be too much going on visually for the silver. At least plastidip is easy to undo, unless you overspray (then it's a gigantic pain in the rear end)
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2020 17:41
|
|