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SERPUS
Mar 20, 2004

ro5s posted:

I don’t do anything fancy, it’s just javis static grass, pva on the base where I want it and dunk the whole thing in the bag. For something big like the exocrine it’s similar, glue on a section, dump some grass on, shake off the excess then on to the next bit.

So you don't use one of those expensive static grass gadgets?

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BaronVonVaderham
Jul 31, 2011

All hail the queen!
Pretty pleased with how this guy turned out, especially considering I haven't painted in months (I had a super fun reaction to a new medication that completely hosed my vision...thankfully it was not permanent).



Highlighting each of those little skin bumps/wart things was incredibly tedious, but it seems to have been time well spent. I wish the bone colored spikes and plates came out a little brighter, but the texture was kind of interesting and does look fairly bone-y to me.

dishwasherlove
Nov 26, 2007

The ultimate fusion of man and machine.

Could probably edge highlight up to white on the bone if you can be bothered. That would make it pop.

ro5s
Dec 27, 2012

A happy little mouse!

SERPUS posted:

So you don't use one of those expensive static grass gadgets?

Nope, nothing like that.

Maneck
Sep 11, 2011

NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:

Yep, a pot of Nuln Oil and a pot of Agrax Earthshade will handle 99% of your wash needs and will last you ages.

Nuln gloss also has its uses. Those uses burn through pots very quickly.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

Maneck posted:

Nuln gloss also has its uses. Those uses burn through pots very quickly.

Yes, and I use it a lot but public service announcement: nuln oil gloss isn't glossy nuln oil. It's more of a shade than a wash. It's a less intense black and doesn't sink into the recesses as much.

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

BaronVonVaderham posted:

Pretty pleased with how this guy turned out, especially considering I haven't painted in months (I had a super fun reaction to a new medication that completely hosed my vision...thankfully it was not permanent).



Highlighting each of those little skin bumps/wart things was incredibly tedious, but it seems to have been time well spent. I wish the bone colored spikes and plates came out a little brighter, but the texture was kind of interesting and does look fairly bone-y to me.

His expression makes me think that he just stepped on a Lego :v:

HardKase
Jul 15, 2007
TASTY
I'm trying my hand at painting but the details are to small for me to pick out and paint.

Do you have any tips? I'm painting infinity models.

I'll include some photos of the hack job I have attempted so far. I am a new painter. Any advice is appreciated



Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



What are you having difficulty with? At this point the Zhanshi and Fusilier look fine for a first shot. Practice will tighten these up.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



HardKase posted:

I'm trying my hand at painting but the details are to small for me to pick out and paint.

Do you have any tips? I'm painting infinity models.

I'll include some photos of the hack job I have attempted so far. I am a new painter. Any advice is appreciated





Looks great for a first attempt, to echo on Cat Face Joe's post, just paint more.

BUT to mention a few things I have started using with my coming back to painting: wet palette, some way to hold your miniature that's not just the base (GW mini holder, a wine cork, other brand thing?), make sure you're painting in a well lit area.

As for small details, it comes down to brush control which you get more of by keeping more points of contact so forearms on your table, one hand holding the mini in a holder of some sort, the brush hand can even rest on the mini holding hand depending on what angles you are aiming for. Thinned paints on a wet palette so that when your brush touches where you want paint it flows smoothly (but not too much where it's watery).

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

Look at the official photos and try to copy some of the easier details is how I learned a lot about painting. I got my start with Warhammer 40K though, which is loaded with tutorials all over Youtube, and all of those painting techniques will apply to any other models. So looking at those will help too, even if what you're watching is not necessarily the exact model you're painting, but there are hardly any painting Infinity models for beginners out there.

The Moon Monster
Dec 30, 2005

I would start out by just focusing on brush control and painting "inside the lines". It's tricky with Infinity models since they have so many tiny details. Like I said come in! said it's useful to look at the box art paint jobs, you can look at the areas that were all painted the same color and then paint them a solid color yourself.

DoubleDonut
Oct 22, 2010


Fallen Rib


still having some trouble with this wash after finishing the necron warriors (and scarabs) in the 40k starter set box, but I think I'm getting better at picking out small details. Not sure if it's just a weird wash (it's Cryptek Armorshade Gloss) or if it's because it's a gloss or what, but it looks fine from three feet up so I'm pretty happy with it

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord

NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:

The Anvils of Heldenhammer paint scheme is so much nicer looking than the box art Stormcast stuff, but... hoo boy I went too hard on those edge highlights.





For once I'm happy with cloth highlighting though.

Dienes
Nov 4, 2009

dee
doot doot dee
doot doot doot
doot doot dee
dee doot doot
doot doot dee
dee doot doot


College Slice
I just finished all the Rocky dragons from Reaper so here is a group shot:

I like them all but I'm particularly happy with the brown and gold dragons. The brown dragon has a cameo by Sparx.

I can't wait for the 6th Rocky coming out next year - he's going to be a white dragon.

inscrutable horse
May 20, 2010

Parsing sage, rotating time



Dienes posted:

I just finished all the Rocky dragons from Reaper so here is a group shot:

I like them all but I'm particularly happy with the brown and gold dragons. The brown dragon has a cameo by Sparx.

I can't wait for the 6th Rocky coming out next year - he's going to be a white dragon.

After my last foray into Reaper minis, I decided that enough was enough, and I'd never bother with them again. But those dragons are so fuckin' adorable, I'm strongly reconsidering my prior decisions :swoon:

Major Spag
Nov 4, 2012
xpost from 30k thread

Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

Had a go at Ripper Jackson. Ended up sorta... 80's?

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Winklebottom posted:

Had a go at Ripper Jackson. Ended up sorta... 80's?



Looks very rad 80s. Now I'm thinking do I fire up Far Cry: Blood Dragon before I paint mine when GW finally sends me one (I didn't go to the local store because wildfire smoke). But if I do that then maybe I'll want to buy some of those neon bright paints that I've seen posted ITT.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

tangy yet delightful posted:

Looks very rad 80s. Now I'm thinking do I fire up Far Cry: Blood Dragon before I paint mine when GW finally sends me one (I didn't go to the local store because wildfire smoke). But if I do that then maybe I'll want to buy some of those neon bright paints that I've seen posted ITT.

She totally needs zebra stripe zubazz and a bright pink headband that's says "work it"

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to do the Storm Lords chapter symbol. I can manage the lightening bolts, but I don't know how I'm going to do the skulls. Is there a place that has just a pile of small skull transfers? Or, does anyone know of a tutorial on how to freehand a skull?

edit: Of course, right after I post this I find someone selling plastic chapter symbols online that fit on shoulder pads.

Funzo fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Sep 21, 2020

Ishvara
Dec 10, 2009

When I die, I hope to go to Heaven, whatever the Hell that is.
What is some of the best advice you all have for caring for brushes? I’ve just been using cheap 3-8 dollar brushes from michaels but they seem to go bad after only a couple hours each. I’m brand new and just got the Infiniti’s box I’m not going to lie I’m a little in over my head.

Gunder
May 22, 2003



Another golden boy complete!

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Ishvara posted:

What is some of the best advice you all have for caring for brushes? I’ve just been using cheap 3-8 dollar brushes from michaels but they seem to go bad after only a couple hours each. I’m brand new and just got the Infiniti’s box I’m not going to lie I’m a little in over my head.

Don't dip your brush dry into paint
Don't let paint get into the ferrule (metal part that holds the base of the brush hairs)
Don't let paint dry on the brush
Don't use hot water to clean your brush
Don't store your brushes with the hairs pointing down unless you're using a plastic sleeve to prevent it from smushing hairs
Don't let your brushes dry with the hairs standing up because water can drain down into the ferrule

If you want to give your brushes a longer life (and also your future nicer brushes) grab some Master's Brush Cleaner which is usually carried by Michaels and any art store. It's a soap + conditioner so what you do is rinse off your brush, then drag it in the container until it works up a lather, rinse off and lather up again until you don't see any paint come out, rinse off once more, dry it a little bit so it doesn't lather up then drag into the container, shape it to a point and put it away.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Ishvara posted:

What is some of the best advice you all have for caring for brushes? I’ve just been using cheap 3-8 dollar brushes from michaels but they seem to go bad after only a couple hours each. I’m brand new and just got the Infiniti’s box I’m not going to lie I’m a little in over my head.

There are a few things that could be going on, can you describe whats gone bad about them exactly? Like the tip forms a hook, or all the bristles are frayed, etc.

A few things that could be going on:

In my experience, all synthetic bristle brushes fail to hold a straight tip after like 5 to 10 uses, even cleaning them very carefully each time. Most people recommend actual sable hair brushes like Winsor & Newton series 7, Rosemary & Co, or Raphael. These cost around 10 to 15 bucks but you should only need a big and small one and with care they will last months to years. I have two sable brushes that keep a point and I use for detail work, and then cheap synthetic brushes of various sizes for everything that doesnt need to be precise.

You should always make sure you aren't stabbing the brush into the model, this will cause damage very quickly no matter how good the brush.

Paint should never get into the metal ferrule of the brush, if it dries there it can ruin the brush. I try to make sure my paint doesn't go past half or 3/4 the length of the brush to avoid this. Washes are particularly dangerous and you should try to use cheaper brushes for applying them.

Get some masters soap cleaner and try to clean your brushes with them after every use. It's pretty simple, you rinse the brush with water, then brush it on the soap gently to form a lather. You'll notice pigment in the lather if the brush isn't totally clean, so rinse and repeat until it's clean.

LifeLynx
Feb 27, 2001

Dang so this is like looking over his shoulder in real-time
Grimey Drawer

Eej posted:

Don't dip your brush dry into paint
Don't let paint get into the ferrule (metal part that holds the base of the brush hairs)
Don't let paint dry on the brush
Don't use hot water to clean your brush
Don't store your brushes with the hairs pointing down unless you're using a plastic sleeve to prevent it from smushing hairs
Don't let your brushes dry with the hairs standing up because water can drain down into the ferrule

If you want to give your brushes a longer life (and also your future nicer brushes) grab some Master's Brush Cleaner which is usually carried by Michael's and any art store. It's a soap + conditioner so what you do is rinse off your brush, then drag it in the container until it works up a lather, rinse off and lather up again until you don't see any paint come out, rinse off once more, dry it a little bit so it doesn't lather up then drag into the container, shape it to a point and put it away.

I didn't know any of these when I first started, and I didn't know about the first one or last one until now even though I thought to myself I might be doing something wrong.

Booyah- posted:

In my experience, all synthetic bristle brushes fail to hold a straight tip after like 5 to 10 uses, even cleaning them very carefully each time. Most people recommend actual sable hair brushes like Winsor & Newton series 7, Rosemary & Co, or Raphael. These cost around 10 to 15 bucks but you should only need a big and small one and with care they will last months to years. I have two sable brushes that keep a point and I use for detail work, and then cheap synthetic brushes of various sizes for everything that doesnt need to be precise.

The only synthetic brush that has lasted me years has been a Royal & Langnickel gold taklon filbert brush, size 4. It's a flat brush with a kind of rounded point, for anyone who doesn't know. It's been my go-to for base coating, some edge highlights on medium sized areas, shading, etc. I think I bought it for $2.50 at Michael's years ago.

Cinara
Jul 15, 2007
I actually glued magnets to the end of each brush on my primary brushes and then glued a piece of wire to my light that hangs over my workspace. This way I can store all of them with the hairs pointing down with no risk of damaging them and have them easily accessible. Only bothered to do it for 4-5 of my most used brushes though, but I've had most of them for over 7 years now and they are still going strong.

Torquemada
Oct 21, 2010

Drei Gläser
Just lol if you don’t buy brushes with a built in spirit level.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


I have Enrique hold my brushes in his delicate hands at all times

The Moon Monster
Dec 30, 2005

Ishvara posted:

What is some of the best advice you all have for caring for brushes? I’ve just been using cheap 3-8 dollar brushes from michaels but they seem to go bad after only a couple hours each. I’m brand new and just got the Infiniti’s box I’m not going to lie I’m a little in over my head.

I've had zero luck with mid range brushes like that, they don't seem to last any longer than 10 for a dollar brushes.

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

The Moon Monster posted:

I've had zero luck with mid range brushes like that, they don't seem to last any longer than 10 for a dollar brushes.

Same. Either buy the good sable poo poo or cheap craftstore stuff. The midrange stuff doesnt really seem any better than the cheap stuff.

Anyway I painted these magic mirrors that you can cast spells through in AOS and I absolutely cannot remember the name of.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


I bought the cheapest brushes on amazon and they were awful, it was like the bristles were made of teflon, the paint literally wouldn’t adhere to the bristles. For cheap brushes I go to an art store and buy whatever’s on sale and it’s worked well for me.

I’ve had a lot of luck with Daler Rowney Aquafine brushes, for something mid-priced

TheBigAristotle
Feb 8, 2007

I'm tired of hearing about money, money, money, money, money.
I just want to play the game, drink Pepsi, wear Reebok.

Grimey Drawer
the worst cheap brushes are easily the ones at the dollar store, the hairs come out with very little pressure, get stuck in paint, I bought a pack for a big terrain thing and it didn't go very far.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!




The worst cheap brushes I've got were some really coarse ones I thought could be used for something decent. Turns out they were so stiff I couldn't even use them for drybrushing. Had more luck with toy store brushes than those.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
For cheap brushes look for "Golden Taklon" synthetics
You can get a set of ~10 for the price of a single good natural hair brush.

Some people actually prefer them over natural hair, that hasn't been my experience, but they're still way better than dollar store brushes and will last a while without any care. I use them for terrain or other utility purposes.

LifeLynx
Feb 27, 2001

Dang so this is like looking over his shoulder in real-time
Grimey Drawer

Bucnasti posted:

For cheap brushes look for "Golden Taklon" synthetics
You can get a set of ~10 for the price of a single good natural hair brush.

Some people actually prefer them over natural hair, that hasn't been my experience, but they're still way better than dollar store brushes and will last a while without any care. I use them for terrain or other utility purposes.

Hey, that's what I said my filbert brush was above! I haven't used anything other than a flat filbert brush, but based on how this one holds up and how they're a bit stiffer than natural hair but not too much, I could see them being preferred.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
Finished my two new blue kobolds! Alongside my old blue kobold and blue dragon cultist, for scale. Now I just have to finish the greens and I'm good on kobolds forever!



And a couple of bonus randos.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
I stumbled across this video today. For anyone who has a problem with shaking hands while paining.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

dishwasherlove
Nov 26, 2007

The ultimate fusion of man and machine.

For the Emperor! Wait no, not that Emperor, the other one.



First thing I have sat down and painted properly for a few years. Feels good.

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I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

dishwasherlove posted:

For the Emperor! Wait no, not that Emperor, the other one.



First thing I have sat down and painted properly for a few years. Feels good.

Where did you get these dudes? I wish GW still sold them on their website, but they are no longer made officially that I could find.

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