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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:I knew there'd be previous owner fuckery somewhere on the DR, but for gently caress's sake. First would have been the slot method but you tried that. I have those back out bits below and this doesn't seem like the kind of thing those work well on. My next approach would be to grind flat spots on the outside and try vise grips. Alternative, grind six flat spots and hammer a socket onto it and use a socket to get it off. If that doesn't work, impact. You can do this several ways. Option A: Use a manual impact driver. Not an electric drill type. This will push downward rotational force into the screw. Option B: use a chisel/punch and hammer. Put the point towards an outside edge and hammer a dimple to keep the point in place. Gently angle it as to drive the head counter clockwise. This will also add downward rotational force hopefully backing it out. Likely it's JIS and the owner tried Phillips with bad luck, stripping it out. I'm kind of surprised to see a Suzuki with Phillips head anything on it to be honest. Wondering if those screws are even meant to be in there at all or if they're "aftermarket". Hopefully all the threads are intact and this guy didn't just jam some SAE machine screws in there cross threading everything.
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Sep 18, 2020 05:04
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Verman posted:Likely it's JIS and the owner tried Phillips with bad luck, stripping it out. Yeah that's what I did with my first set of carbs, didn't have a JIS bit
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Sep 18, 2020 05:24
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I haven't ground anything, I found it like that. I suspect he's tried to get the bowl off and hosed the original screws and just never managed to do it. Got one loose with vice grips. Gonna go look for an impact drive now because I've just spent 10 mins on the second one and it's not moving.
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Sep 18, 2020 05:31
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mewse posted:Yeah that's what I did with my first set of carbs, didn't have a JIS bit A JIS bit will only get you so far, those screws are a very soft aluminum alloy, and aluminum loving LOVES galling to itself. All the carbs Mikuni built for Suzuki are like that AFAIK, pretty sure Keihn too. That impact driver'll work good, as long as they weren't slotted so bad the head fails and falls off. If that happens hopefully you can vice-grip out the nubs. If that doesn't work, at least aluminum is easy to drill, and Lowes and HD sell metric taps nowadays.
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Sep 18, 2020 05:57
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If you DO have to drill, and just as general advice, file/dremel them flat, and use a nice sharp center punch to make a divot in the center of the screw body, so you don't end up drilling to one side, drill a little smaller than the thread pitch, then use a pick to extract the studs. Not to scare you, I'm 99% sure the impact will work, I've used it successfully many times, just thinking about lovely carb screws and throwing info out there.
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Sep 18, 2020 06:02
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OK, well gently caress. Got one moving, the other one is absolutely rooted. I can see some of the thread end coming out the other side and that's chewed up too. Nobody within 250km of me stocks a non-electric impact driver or the type of extractors that sagebrush mentioned. I've ordered the extractors and we'll see, I guess. Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 07:01 on Sep 18, 2020 |
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Sep 18, 2020 06:42
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Mmm, pretty sure that it has a knife edge around the bowl. Try wiggling it, see what happens. If you can't wait for the screw extractor, you can take a flat head screwdriver and a hammer, and try hammering in the loosening direction in that slot, and I'll bet you get some movement, it's the impact that breaks all those corrosion bonds in the threads.
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Sep 18, 2020 07:04
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Elviscat posted:For the price of pretty cheap you can also try a manual impact driver like this I've used them on those lovely aluminum carb screws before with good success, you line it up with the screw hole and give it some good snacks with a hammer, breaks those sgits right loose, also digs into the head as it impels the screw, which helps. It's useful for a variety of stuff, so it's worth having around for Aren't you going to get dissimilar metals corrosion using stainless fasteners in aluminum?
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Sep 18, 2020 12:32
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Finger Prince posted:Aren't you going to get dissimilar metals corrosion using stainless fasteners in aluminum? Any fastener going into aluminum that you'd like to get back out needs to have grease or anti-seize put on it. Same goes for stainless fasteners, it loves to gall just like aluminum.
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Sep 18, 2020 14:11
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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:I knew there'd be previous owner fuckery somewhere on the DR, but for gently caress's sake. Yet another time when the trex screw pliers would save the day. Seriously my most useful tool, after the leatherman. https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-Pz-58-Screw-Pliers-Gt/dp/B002L6HJAA
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Sep 18, 2020 14:53
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Finger Prince posted:Aren't you going to get dissimilar metals corrosion using stainless fasteners in aluminum? Not really like Jazz said you should put some lube on it. Actually stainless steel to stainless steel is where you worry about galling, since galling is intermolecular welding of metals, so SS can't "gall" to aluminum, it can certainly corrode in place, but as noted in the article above, the Al carb body is acting as a huge sacrificial anode for the SS, which should be completely passive in a motorcycle application. There's usually at least a few SS components in carbs from the factory too, the pins the float rides on, for example.
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Sep 18, 2020 16:13
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Elviscat posted:Not really like Jazz said you should put some lube on it. Ah cool. I'm most familiar with cadmium plated ss hardware for use in aluminum to keep galvanic corrosion at bay, but I see that's not really a thing outside airplanes because oh it turns out this poo poo is  hugely toxic, welp guess that's another thing I'll probably die from in 20 years!
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Sep 18, 2020 16:38
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Coydog posted:Yet another time when the trex screw pliers would save the day. Seriously my most useful tool, after the leatherman. https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-Pz-58-Screw-Pliers-Gt/dp/B002L6HJAA I bought these in May and while I haven't had a chance to use them, everyone who's picked them up and played with them thinks they're going to pretty neat when needed.
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Sep 18, 2020 16:56
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Coydog posted:Yet another time when the trex screw pliers would save the day. Seriously my most useful tool, after the leatherman. https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-Pz-58-Screw-Pliers-Gt/dp/B002L6HJAA No screw can resist the jaws of a motivated dinosaur! 
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Sep 18, 2020 17:15
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That thing seems great, but I would worry that the screw that I need to extract would fall outside it's range if I bought it.
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Sep 18, 2020 17:35
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I've never met a screw it couldn't get loose, and admit to getting lazy sometimes and just using it instead of looking for the right screwdriver. You can do it straight on like the pictures, or along the side if there isn't room. You can also use the bigger part for bigger stuff. Plus they feel so well made and high quality and I love the green color. I'm a total shill for them. edit: And thanks to whoever here recommended them years ago!
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Sep 18, 2020 19:34
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They didn’t want to move the stuck screw on my DRZs carb. Found hex replacements for the one I slotted... Ł4 each
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Sep 18, 2020 19:36
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I got a set of screw extractors and I can't get one to bite. I've cleaned the head up with that end, and now I'm sitting there with my socket wrench just uselessly rotating it without it biting in at all.
Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Sep 19, 2020 |
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Sep 19, 2020 01:53
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Those things are worthless. They using the next size down to drill, then go up a size and hammer it in if necessary, aluminum is very soft, so it's gonna want to strip out. E: i.e. go up a size from the one you're using now, hammer it in, then use it to loosen.
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Sep 19, 2020 02:09
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e: Drill one size up and extractor one size up from that, hit it with a hammer and and threaten to throw the whole thing in the creek and quit bieks forever worked!
Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Sep 19, 2020 |
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Sep 19, 2020 02:14
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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:e: Drill one size up and extractor one size up from that, hit it with a hammer and and threaten to throw the whole thing in the creek and quit bieks forever worked! Honestly, I’d just grind the head off, pop the top off and then use vise grips on the threads to get it out.
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Sep 19, 2020 03:05
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Coydog posted:Yet another time when the trex screw pliers would save the day. Seriously my most useful tool, after the leatherman. https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-Pz-58-Screw-Pliers-Gt/dp/B002L6HJAA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njQP3wHFDZk
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Sep 20, 2020 18:09
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Mine just got delivered today 
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Sep 20, 2020 18:20
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I have a pair of these and have only used them once but they were fuckin amaaaaazing. Highly recommend. Also please watch the Japanese commercial for them: That t-rex came out of nowhere
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Sep 20, 2020 18:45
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 Never occurred to me the handle could help open jars. Also, amazing commercial.
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Sep 20, 2020 18:58
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Why do they notch a hole in the bottom of an aerosol?
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Sep 20, 2020 19:52
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Horse Clocks posted:Why do they notch a hole in the bottom of an aerosol? Maybe it's something you have to do over there before you dispose of it?
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Sep 20, 2020 19:53
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Horse Clocks posted:Why do they notch a hole in the bottom of an aerosol? Once you're done with the can you have to free those CFCs so they can return to their home in the sky.
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Sep 20, 2020 19:58
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Ola posted:Maybe it's something you have to do over there before you dispose of it? Yeah Japanese residential recycling is no joke. Same thing with why they pulled off the coloured plastic ring from the clear plastic bottle. And if you get it wrong or half-rear end it, you are required to wear the stone of shame and all the old people hit you with brooms.
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Sep 20, 2020 21:01
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I think you’re joking but elderly Japanese busybodies will literally shame you for bad recycling hygiene. In the US we do single-stream recycling, meaning we separate our garbage into “Recyclables” and “Other”. By comparison check out the array of choices you are met with when you throw something away in Japan: https://soranews24.com/2014/05/15/recycling-in-japan-or-reasons-to-get-it-right-and-avoid-eternal-shame/
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Sep 20, 2020 21:46
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Am I too jaded for assuming that after you meticulously sort your trash into 24 different categories it all goes to landfill anyway? Or is it only the UK that pulls that poo poo
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Sep 21, 2020 08:13
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I still don't understand how this helps you recycle:Horse Clocks posted:Why do they notch a hole in the bottom of an aerosol? I'm assuming it's not: Slavvy posted:Once you're done with the can you have to free those CFCs so they can return to their home in the sky.
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Sep 21, 2020 08:45
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Renaissance Robot posted:Am I too jaded for assuming that after you meticulously sort your trash into 24 different categories it all goes to landfill anyway? Or is it only the UK that pulls that poo poo Only the stuff that's not economically viable to pay someone to pull out of the stream. Ferrous metals all get recycled cos all you need is a big loving magnet, most non-ferrous metals likewise because you can make a pretty good guess what it is just by the shape. Paper, cardboard, etc *mostly* do but it'll depend on the local consumers (i.e. if you've got someone making fibreboard or something nearby they'll take anything, but a paper-maker wants it all properly sorted because any plastics are going to gently caress them up). Plastics - nope. The best you can hope for is they'll go into one of the processes that really doesn't give a poo poo about what you feed it as long as it melts around the right temperature but the vast majority ends up in landfill anyway because even the plastics that are trivially recyclable are completely hosed by even small amounts of contamination from other material in the mix, and it's so much cheaper to just pull more dino-juice out of the ground.
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Sep 21, 2020 09:04
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MomJeans420 posted:I still don't understand how this helps you recycle: Crushing and shredding is the first step of recycling, putting a pressurised container (especially given the post-CFC use of propane and butane as propellant gases) into that process isn't a fun time for anyone. Most metal recyclers have a separate stream for pressurised containers for exactly that reason, I assume this is just a way of cutting that cost down, although I bet they still have someone sitting on the line making sure they're pierced.
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Sep 21, 2020 09:07
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There's not many other societies where "let private consumers depressurize their own cans with hand tools" would be a viable policy.
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Sep 21, 2020 09:26
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I'm going to start to try to get my scooter up and working again, and I wanted to know how much pain I can look forward to by doing a carb swap. The reason why I'm looking to do a carb swap is because for emissions purposes they filed off the heads on all of the adjuster screws and the thing was running slightly rough beforehand. Documentation on the Symba is lacking at best, but someone on one of the forums said that they managed to get a 20mm Keihin knockoff to run OKish with a pod filter. I've never messed with carburetors before, so this is all new territory for me and I know that there's going to be some (a lot) of fiddling with it to not run incredibly lean. Is there any sort of "how to get over your head messing with carbs 101 for idiot hellfuckers" that's decent?
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Sep 21, 2020 12:13
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Phone posted:I'm going to start to try to get my scooter up and working again, and I wanted to know how much pain I can look forward to by doing a carb swap. The reason why I'm looking to do a carb swap is because for emissions purposes they filed off the heads on all of the adjuster screws and the thing was running slightly rough beforehand. If you watch some "will it run?" videos on youtube like 95% of them involve carb cleaning and adjustment. If you find some "will it run" scooter videos they could be directly applicable to your engine. In the end carbs aren't really that mysterious, they're just mechanical devices that mix fuel and air together for a good burn in the engine.
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Sep 21, 2020 16:36
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As someone who flipped bikes for a living back in the early 2000’s, 99/100* “it doesn’t run” bikes are carb issues that are easily fixed. * This number is probably wildly different if you are not talking about Japanese bikes.
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Sep 21, 2020 16:51
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The main crux of it is that I picked this Sym Symba for $1250, the air boxes are notoriously brittle (and you can no longer find them), and there's no part number for just the idle adjuster screw that can be adjusted. So the options are: - pull the stock carb and do a rebuild if necessary, unclog the jets where needed, maybe try to dremel a slot into the adjuster and hope I don't gently caress it up ($0) - a new carb from taiwan ($289+shipping) - a new carb for a kawasaki that mostly bolts right on ($175) - a knock off keihin 20mm + a handful of jets + a few weekends to dial it in (~$50) This is all symforums second hand stuff, but the stock carburetor is a 16mm and the intake snorkel doesn't play nice with the 20mm one. I guess my question should have been: how in over my head can I get trying to tune a larger carburetor on a 101.4cc scooter with less than ideal documentation?
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Sep 21, 2020 17:03
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You can put a slot in a screw with a hacksaw. Cleaning the existing carb seems like something you should at least try, depending on how much damage to the airbox it causes removing/reinstalling it. Even if that gets messed up you could rig a pod filter on the stock carb as well. There's nothing to lose by trying to run the parts that you have. You might be giving yourself analysis paralysis.
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Sep 21, 2020 18:16
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