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Grandma is supposed to value fancy keyboards at $5. Something fishy is going on, she's got a grandson in on this 
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Sep 19, 2020 19:35
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Got the other model m (1390131, no v keycap or cord), an apple M0110A, an apple M0110, and an apple M0100 mouse for $100. I bet they'd've done $50  but not a bad price. Only found one cord between the two mac keyboards which isn't great but better than none.E: gently caress this thing is a pain to clean. The barrel bases are like a magnet for grime and too close to get anything bigger than a q-tip in there. I'ma have to get toothpicks or something. Fantastic Foreskin fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Sep 21, 2020 |
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Sep 20, 2020 17:48
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I forget if it was here or /r/mechanicalkeyboards where I saw it, but I decided to try the "sand the paint off the sides of cheap translucent keys" thing on my K95's escape key. It went OK.  Easy enough to do, just laid some 220 grit out on my desk and rubbed it back and forth, but the nature of a lit cherry-style switch makes the result a little bit disappointing looking because one half is significantly more illuminated than the other. I guess I should have expected that. Going back to my previous post... wolrah posted:If I'm going to be throwing that away I'd just go all out and get something like an Ergodox, which is actually something I'm now considering after seeing that the Moonlander has support for running the left side only as a WASD pad so that one expensive device could fill two roles. I'm looking for input on the switches though. Between the three major Cherry switches I prefer Browns, that's what I have in my K95, but I know they're not really in favor anymore. The other choices in the same class are Kailh Coppers and Kailh Box Browns, neither of which I've even knowingly been in the same room as. My use case will be about 90% typing, 10% badly playing games. I feel like the Box Browns are probably a better fit for my needs, but the part of me that still believes I'm one piece of gear away from having a K/D above one likes the idea of the short travel of the Coppers. Obviously this board is socketed so I can (and almost certainly will) swap things around but I'm just looking for a good starting point.
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Sep 21, 2020 18:15
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wolrah posted:I'm looking for input on the switches though. Between the three major Cherry switches I prefer Browns, that's what I have in my K95, but I know they're not really in favor anymore. The other choices in the same class are Kailh Coppers and Kailh Box Browns, neither of which I've even knowingly been in the same room as. My use case will be about 90% typing, 10% badly playing games. I feel like the Box Browns are probably a better fit for my needs, but the part of me that still believes I'm one piece of gear away from having a K/D above one likes the idea of the short travel of the Coppers. If you like Cherry browns, stick with em. I wouldn't change switches due to the feelings of others, if you want to change switches get a switch tester and see if you want to change. When I decided to try out the clones, I thought all the Brown clones others made to be worse feeling than the Cherry Browns.
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Sep 21, 2020 18:54
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.Z. posted:If you like Cherry browns, stick with em. I wouldn't change switches due to the feelings of others, if you want to change switches get a switch tester and see if you want to change. When I decided to try out the clones, I thought all the Brown clones others made to be worse feeling than the Cherry Browns. Also some of what I had been hearing recently implied that the quality on Cherry MX switches had gone down as they'd scaled up production in the last few years, so if that's true that would be an actual reason to want to go with something different. I did order a sample pack of switches off Amazon that contains most of the ones I haven't tried from this lineup including both of the ones I'm most interested in. After doing a lot of reading on what's out there though I'm still leaning towards the Box Browns. The talk of extra stability from the box stem made me realize how wobbly what I have is. We'll see how that holds up when the switches get here.
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Sep 21, 2020 20:45
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Nah, if anything, Cherry MX switches quality have gone up since they revamped their tooling. What's changed though is the vast number of options out there with regards to switches. Cherry Browns were barely tactile to begin with, so if you're looking for tactility, then there are much much better options.
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Sep 21, 2020 21:47
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is it possible to replace the switches on a Logitech G710+? I like the keyboard and it doesn't seem like there's new ones available anywhere but I'd like to maybe replace the switches with something a little more tactile. I have Cherry MX Browns in there now.
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Sep 21, 2020 22:54
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Impermanent posted:is it possible to replace the switches on a Logitech G710+? I like the keyboard and it doesn't seem like there's new ones available anywhere but I'd like to maybe replace the switches with something a little more tactile. I have Cherry MX Browns in there now. Possible? Yes. Worth it? Probably not, you would have to desolder the board, then solder on new switches. The best you could do in the enthusiast mech market is to buy a full-size/1800/96% layout keyboard and pair it with a macropad.
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Sep 21, 2020 23:25
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Is there a good tutorial on how to use the layer editor and backlight editor for the GK/SK boards from Epomaker? I've finally got it working for my SK71 and yeah, it's a freaking weird but fun little board and I want to fully map out its layers so that I can easily utilize my apostrophes and colons. Also, is there a way to create custom keycaps with custom symbols on it? I'd like to do both front-facing and top-faced keys so I can know which keys do what on my numpad.
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Sep 22, 2020 02:26
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Are there decent entry-level wireless mechanical keyboards? I'm toying with the idea of getting a tactile keyboard (probably Cherry Browns, though I'm probably going to either poke at some browns & clears in Best Buy or grab a cheap sampler off Amazon first), but I'd really prefer that it be wireless. My desk has enough cords and I'm trying to improve things. I'd also like it to be a full board (arrow keys, separate numpad, function keys, and volume up/down/mute keys). Color isn't a big deal, but no backlighting. I'm not worried about any wireless lag or anything, since I'll primarily be using it for work & non-intensive gaming (Civ 6, CK3, League, various roguelikes, Witcher, etc.). e: Actually, the Logitech G613 wireless looks similar to what I'd want (though I don't really need the G keys), for about $150? Are there switch samplers for the Romer G-Tactile keys? I'd like to see how they feel before buying something. Though if Logitech's return policy is decent I guess that'd work. (Minor bonus points because I'm currently using an MK 270 keyboard and an MX mouse, so I guess it'd stay in the all-logitech family. And being able to swap between devices would be handy since I sometimes hook my work laptop up to my home monitor. Though I guess I'd need to get a wireless card or USB dongle for the home PC.) e2: And it's currently $75 on Amazon? That's not a whole lot more than the $20 for a keycap sampler. e4: Oh, it has a weird wrist rest. Ugh. It might technically be more ergonomic but I'm not inclined to gamble on something like that. e5: After reading some pages in the thread, the Romers are terrible? Arcturas fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Sep 22, 2020 |
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Sep 22, 2020 03:48
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Durgod Taurus is a great starter MK. Don’t buy the gaming brands, it’s marked up pricing for low quality.
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Sep 22, 2020 13:18
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LochNessMonster posted:Durgod Taurus is a great starter MK. I've got three. They're great performing value boards, not just for starters. They're top mount which already makes them like a million times better than a tray mount like the Tofu series. Yeah the plate is steel but I actually like it. Cases are plastic, but they are SOLID plastic and there's just enough space in the cavity to be able to tune your thocc's with some sound deadening material like polyfil, or butyl mat if you're into that sort of thing. My only gripe is that the pcb traces are loving FRAGILE and very thin. the PCB coating is kind of cheap too but it's better than nothing. Their software doesn't suck either but I haven't really had to gently caress around with it because the default lighting modes are good and who the gently caress needs to reprogram a TKL? No layers though, sorry.
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Sep 22, 2020 15:51
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LochNessMonster posted:Durgod Taurus is a great starter MK. Thanks, I'll take a gander. The Durgod Taurus on kprepublic only has a USB-c connector. Is there one with wireless? That's pretty important to me.
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Sep 22, 2020 16:13
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Ringo Star Get posted:Also, is there a way to create custom keycaps with custom symbols on it? I'd like to do both front-facing and top-faced keys so I can know which keys do what on my numpad. WASD does this.
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Sep 22, 2020 16:47
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I just got myself an Ergotron workfit for cheap for my WFH setup and have discovered that my old full size cherry keyboard simply cannot be made to fit comfortably on the keyboard tray. Looking to replace it with some flavor of tenkeyless mechanical. Current keyboard has blues. I like the way they feel. My wife hates the way they sound. I hear browns still feel nice and are a bit quieter. Considering the following boards: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E57PUNA/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=Qisan&qid=1600791973&sr=8-4 - This looks fine, and the price is palatable but I've never used a 60% keyboard and am concerned that it will be too compact- I'll be doing lots of writing and some coding for work and I don't want to end up hating myself as I painfully rewire my typing neurons while learning a new job. https://www.amazon.com/DURGOD-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Interface/dp/B078H3WPHM?ref_=ast_sto_dp - This got recommended a little while ago so I assume its good and worth the money and I like the layout. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFBKYT5?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1 - I got recommended this as a decent cheap mechanical tenkeyless. Too cheap to be good? I have no idea. Is the VELOCIFIRE worth a try at 1/3 the cost of the DURGOD (ugh, these names)? Are my concerns about switching to a 60% layout completely unfounded? Is there something else out there that would be better than any of these options? Thanks for any and all help.
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Sep 22, 2020 17:46
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Arcturas posted:Thanks, I'll take a gander. The Durgod Taurus on kprepublic only has a USB-c connector. Is there one with wireless? That's pretty important to me. Keychron K4 gives you a wireless 96% option. You are limited to Gatreon Brown and LK Optical Brown for tactile switches. And I've got no clue what LK Optical switches are like. https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k4-wireless-mechanical-keyboard?variant=30726319079513
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Sep 22, 2020 18:24
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.Z. posted:Keychron K4 gives you a wireless 96% option. You are limited to Gatreon Brown and LK Optical Brown for tactile switches. And I've got no clue what LK Optical switches are like. minor pushback to this: while I find the featureset, build quality, and price of my Keychron delightful, the Gateron Brown switches feel real bad compared to actual Cherry Brown switches (which already tend to be a bit love-it-or-hate-it) - not nearly as much bump, making them almost feel like lightweight linear keys that said, I've heard the Gateron Blues are a lot better, and I'm kinda curious about the LK Optical ones myself
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Sep 22, 2020 18:55
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.Z. posted:Keychron K4 gives you a wireless 96% option. You are limited to Gatreon Brown and LK Optical Brown for tactile switches. And I've got no clue what LK Optical switches are like. I have a white backlit K4 with Gateron Browns just sitting around that was used like 5 times before my husband decided he didn't like the layout. Its main selling points were its Bluetooth connection that can easily be switched between devices and Mac compatibility. abraham linksys posted:minor pushback to this: while I find the featureset, build quality, and price of my Keychron delightful, the Gateron Brown switches feel real bad compared to actual Cherry Brown switches (which already tend to be a bit love-it-or-hate-it) - not nearly as much bump, making them almost feel like lightweight linear keys Longbike posted:Is the VELOCIFIRE worth a try at 1/3 the cost of the DURGOD (ugh, these names)? Are my concerns about switching to a 60% layout completely unfounded? Is there something else out there that would be better than any of these options? Stroop There It Is fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Sep 22, 2020 |
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Sep 22, 2020 19:01
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Yup, Gateron Browns are way less tactile, but they're smooooth. I think the most tactile brown switch I've tried (as in, has brown in the name) are the retooled Kailh Browns (not BOX).
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Sep 22, 2020 19:10
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Longbike posted:I just got myself an Ergotron workfit for cheap for my WFH setup and have discovered that my old full size cherry keyboard simply cannot be made to fit comfortably on the keyboard tray. Looking to replace it with some flavor of tenkeyless mechanical. I used to use a Microsoft Sculpt on a Humanscale QuickStand, which looks like it may have a similar sized keyboard tray. Not much room for a mouse but it worked okay. The keyboard is actually surprisingly good, and that's coming from an insane person that builds their own split boards. Honestly, though: The desktop stands really suck. For the same price or only a tiny bit more you can get a motorized standing desk (like a Fully). There's no way I'd use a QuickStand again. I stupidly used it because it's what work provided, but if I did it again I'd just file a labor claim and force them to get me a real standing desk.
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Sep 22, 2020 19:20
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Thanks for the feedback Stroop and Llama. I'll steer clear of the Velocifire and probably the Magicforce as well. Of course, now that I have started looking ohgod there are so many options its simply staggering and overwhelming. The Keychrons look fairly nice overall, and now I've found an EPOMAKER (seriously, what is with these names?) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DKS1D7D/ref=twister_B08DKTGP18?_encoding=UTF8&th=1 which has PBT keycaps and swappable switches so I guess I could just buy and install Cherry switches if I ended up hating the Gateron Browns. (Is this where it starts? Am I standing on the precipice of a slippery slope?) TBH "super smooth" doesn't sound that bad to me; I guess its one of those things that comes down to personal preference and I won't know until I try. As for the Ergotron, I hear you. I used to own an Uplift before I moved and this thing is mediocre in comparison. I got it in immaculate condition for $100 so figured it was worth a try to bolt to the Husky adjustable workbench I'm currently using as a desk. Its super stout and well-engineered, but the basic premise has some flaws that can't be engineered away. That aside, as this is the keyboard thread and not the desk thread: I want to downsize my keyboard regardless of whether I keep the Ergotron- I rarely use the tenkeys and I hate shuffling things back and forth to remain centered. My brother has a Microsoft Sculpt and its ok. I like the ergonomics a lot, but typing on it was ehhhh. I think I'd love a split ergonomic mechanical board but those are $$$ and I'm hesitant to drop that kind of money sight unseen.
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Sep 23, 2020 14:18
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abraham linksys posted:minor pushback to this: while I find the featureset, build quality, and price of my Keychron delightful, the Gateron Brown switches feel real bad compared to actual Cherry Brown switches (which already tend to be a bit love-it-or-hate-it) - not nearly as much bump, making them almost feel like lightweight linear keys Thanks. I'll look into the KL Optical switches, maybe those are good. I think the tactile bump is a big draw for me. I can be persuaded to try out a 96% instead of a full 104-key, but the wireless is pretty non-negotiable. And I can probably snag a bluetooth dongle for my desktop. (Or, when I build a new computer, look for bluetooth in the mobo.)
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Sep 23, 2020 17:53
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Longbike posted:Thanks for the feedback Stroop and Llama.  PBT keycaps also feel way better to me coz I like that texture a lot, and it is for sure a nice option to be able to easily swap out your switches. There are tons of switch variations that are hard to get on/you can't get on prebuilt boards, so if you try some out and really like them, you'll have the option of switching....and yes, this is totally where it starts.
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Sep 23, 2020 18:23
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Just ordered the EPOMAKER. I'll post my uninformed impressions for all and sundry once I've tried it out.
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Sep 23, 2020 19:54
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Longbike posted:As for the Ergotron, I hear you. I used to own an Uplift before I moved and this thing is mediocre in comparison. I got it in immaculate condition for $100 so figured it was worth a try to bolt to the Husky adjustable workbench I'm currently using as a desk. Its super stout and well-engineered, but the basic premise has some flaws that can't be engineered away. Tenkeyless is very easy to find. I don't know about the EPOMAKER but there are a number of recommendations in the thread. If you don't care about fn row a GMMK Compact without keycaps is decent and you can buy it without switches or caps and source your own. Splits can be remarkably cheap if you are willing to do a bit of soldering. I'm not sure a split would work well on the Ergotron. Unless you have the two halves crammed together it's probably going to be wider than a tenkeyless. Longbike posted:Just ordered the EPOMAKER. I'll post my uninformed impressions for all and sundry once I've tried it out. I'm actually interested. A cheap tenkeyless with a function row is not very common.
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Sep 24, 2020 01:43
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Longbike posted:Just ordered the EPOMAKER. I'll post my uninformed impressions for all and sundry once I've tried it out. Please do. I was told to avoid it because of the terrible software but my friend was interested so I am curious.
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Sep 24, 2020 05:37
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Well almost 30% of my Hako Clears are getting clicking when I am typing with them. Guess there is a issue with all the box switches that causes this to happen? I am half tempted to get Halo Clears because I love the feel of the Hakos but I do not like 1/3 of my keyboard being a clicky mess.
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Sep 24, 2020 16:54
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Whiskey A Go Go! posted:Well almost 30% of my Hako Clears are getting clicking when I am typing with them. Guess there is a issue with all the box switches that causes this to happen? I am half tempted to get Halo Clears because I love the feel of the Hakos but I do not like 1/3 of my keyboard being a clicky mess. Are you sure you didn't accidentally mix them up with box whites?
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Sep 24, 2020 16:57
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Nope, I ordered them from Novel Keys. I got some Kytox 105 and I am going to lube them. I guess that they are lubed from the factory but the stuff used is not great and they put the minimum amount on each key. I might as well throw a movie on and get started on this project.
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Sep 24, 2020 22:20
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Whiskey A Go Go! posted:Nope, I ordered them from Novel Keys. I got some Kytox 105 and I am going to lube them. I guess that they are lubed from the factory but the stuff used is not great and they put the minimum amount on each key. I might as well throw a movie on and get started on this project. Yeah I mean I guess my Hakos are rather clacky, but that's distinctly different from a clicky switch like a Cherry blue/green or those insane Box Navy/Jades. I assumed you meant that like a third of them broke and were rattling around like clicky switches do. Anywho have some Box Navys https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93PCro8hB_A I'm about to put a set of those on my NK65 Aluminum and bring it to work.
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Sep 24, 2020 22:33
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What kind of switch would be exactly like Cherry browns in terms of activation force and such but more smooth and high quality whatever? Maybe with a tactile bump of some kind but no sharp click.
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Sep 24, 2020 23:47
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With those exact requirements, I'd say the MOD-L but I don't think anyone's selling those anymore. For something a bit heavier than MX Brown(but still light enough IMO), then Zealios 62g's could fit the bill.
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Sep 25, 2020 00:04
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Thats quite a bit higher no? Maybe I just should just lube the hell out of them.
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Sep 25, 2020 00:54
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If you're lubing you might as well just buy springs of your desired weight as well
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Sep 25, 2020 01:01
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Llamadeus posted:If you're lubing you might as well just buy springs of your desired weight as well Oh I mean Browns. I just though someone would have made a more premium brown type switch.
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Sep 25, 2020 01:21
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redeyes posted:Thats quite a bit higher no? Maybe I just should just lube the hell out of them. Not at all, actually. Zealios are named after their bottoming out force, not actuation force. If anything, I think Cherry Brown's actually bottom out at 60g as well. (going by their force graph on https://www.cherrymx.de/en/mx-original/mx-brown.html)
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Sep 25, 2020 01:38
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As well as the Zealios there's also all the Panda derivatives and Durock tactiles. The main difference with browns and all of these being the size and position of the bump. I think spring swapping is worth considering if you want a very specific weighting since they're relatively cheap, ~$8 for 100.
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Sep 25, 2020 13:43
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Llamadeus posted:As well as the Zealios there's also all the Panda derivatives and Durock tactiles. The main difference with browns and all of these being the size and position of the bump. Ah ok got it. Thanks
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Sep 25, 2020 15:00
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I just got some zealios 62s to replace some zealios 78s in specific keys that have been giving me trouble. The 62s are so much more tactile feeling it's crazy. Almost like a cherry blue with how much you feel the click, but no real audible click.
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Sep 25, 2020 18:35
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| # ? May 28, 2024 11:12 |
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my EPOMAKER EP-84 came in and I have been playing with it for the past half hour. impressions: it is small- ~12.5" x 5". the gateron browns are not bad, though i do not like them as much as my old cherry blues. typing speed is still good and they are much quieter. it will take some time for me to figure out how much i like them but i don't immediately hate them. no special software required- plug it in and windows recognizes it as a KEYCOOL device without issue. color settings are all managed by keyboard shortcuts. it is possible to not make it look like rainbow puke. it remembers settings when unplugged. i like all of this. the layout is actually really nice. i wanted function keys, and this fits them into a really compact layout. it is heavy- over twice the weight of my full size cherry board. not sure why; its all plastic. body is very stiff. the bottom plate was partially separated from the frame when i took it out of the box- had to snap it back in. looks like it will be easy to take apart should i ever want to do so. THE loving LEFT SHIFT KEY DOESN'T WORK. AT ALL. GOD loving DAMMIT ITS THE ONE I ALWAYS USE NOW I HAVE TO EITHER FIX A BRAND NEW KEYBOARD OR BOX IT UP AND SEND IT BACK TO AMAZON. (i'm about to pull the offending switch, wish me luck) update- pulled the switch, tested with my fluke and it is fine. issue must be in the pcb. this thing is going back to whence it came. real shame, because I like it a lot other than the fact that it is defective. Longbike fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Sep 25, 2020 |
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Sep 25, 2020 19:06
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