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store the emails on an email server?
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Sep 23, 2020 14:07
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Last Chance posted:store the emails on an email server? I want my own, offline copy of everything as a backup in case google goes bust or my account gets locked out.
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Sep 23, 2020 14:19
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Moo the cow posted:I want my own, offline copy of everything as a backup in case google goes bust or my account gets locked out. Your “email server” can also be a computer that lives in your house.
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Sep 23, 2020 14:32
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Or you just have the .pst archives as an easy way to keep the emails in a format that will be readable for the foreseeable future and you don't have to computer janitor.
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Sep 23, 2020 15:02
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I dunno if this is still the case, but back in my tech support said we got pretty frequently calls about huge .pst files being impossible to open. So if you're going that route it might be a good idea to keep multiple smaller ones rather than one big chunk?
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Sep 23, 2020 15:23
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I appreciate the advice, but I am not setting up and maintaining a separate mail server solely to access an archive once a year. I know that large .psts are frowned upon when using Outlook across a network, but I am not going to be using that archive other than adding to it/extracting to Mailstore once a year, so hopefully I can avoid those issues. I was just wondering if there were any magic sizes that were recommended/any specific warnings or issues to be aware of with a .pst of 4GB+ in size. Maybe I will just split it into 3GB chunks to make them a bit more manageable.
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Sep 23, 2020 15:53
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Moo the cow posted:I appreciate the advice, but I am not setting up and maintaining a separate mail server solely to access an archive once a year. Ancient software can't read PSTs bigger than 2GB, but I doubt that would be an issue today (especially if you continue to use outlook or other MS software). But if you're doing it yearly, you should just dump that year's emails into email2020.pst and do 1 per year. That way each file gets written to once, you can move it to whatever backup solution you use, and never touch it again. Not touching things is the best way to keep them safe. Plus you don't have to worry about oversize PSTs or trying to upload to some service that only accepts a limited import. Yes it's harder to immediately get your whole archive working, but conversely it's much easier to get the most recent year (aka the stuff that might be relevant) online. When your scenario is "google ceases to exist" I think you can accept a certain amount of hassle to restoring everything because it's pretty low probability that you'll ever need it.
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Sep 23, 2020 16:27
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Klyith posted:Ancient software can't read PSTs bigger than 2GB, but I doubt that would be an issue today (especially if you continue to use outlook or other MS software). Thanks, that is very helpful and sounds like a very sensible option. The only issue is that Mailstore Home only allows a max of 3 .psts to be archived (I think, the software is good, the documentation is not), so I am going to have to bundle multiple years together, but at least 2/3rds of them will remain only touched once. Klyith posted:When your scenario is "google ceases to exist" I think you can accept a certain amount of hassle to restoring everything because it's pretty low probability that you'll ever need it.
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Sep 23, 2020 17:42
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Moo the cow posted:Is there anything inherently wrong with using a .pst as an archive for email? I think once you get past 4gb Outlook shits itself with them. I recommend just doing multiple PSTs, one for each year. EFB; Didn't see the new page.
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Sep 23, 2020 17:52
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Medullah posted:I think once you get past 4gb Outlook shits itself with them. I recommend just doing multiple PSTs, one for each year. Ah, helpful:that made me do some more looking: (I had in my mind that 10GB was Too Big.) https://support.microsoft.com/en-gb/help/2759052/you-may-experience-application-pauses-if-you-have-a-large-outlook-data quote:If you have a large .pst or .ost file, you may experience application pauses while you perform typical operations in Outlook. These typical operations include reading email messages, moving email messages, and deleting email messages.
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Sep 23, 2020 17:57
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An unhelpful anecdote: I had a job where they decided to limit each user to like 500 MB of email storage (I would send several MB PowerPoints multiple times a day), then limit everyone's personal storage on the server to 1 GB, so multiple times a year I had to download all my emails, add them to an archive, and burn that archive to DVD in case I needed them in the future. Just buy another hard drive for the server!
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Sep 23, 2020 18:27
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Uthor posted:An unhelpful anecdote: We had this and blocked PST's through GPO!
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Sep 23, 2020 18:33
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I loved Eudora back in 1997 because you could make it store its database in flat text files per subfolder. I can search through these files to this day. Not that I ever do that, but I could! It could also auto-detach attachments and dump them in some folder.
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Sep 23, 2020 19:36
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Flipperwaldt posted:I loved Eudora back in 1997 because you could make it store its database in flat text files per subfolder. I can search through these files to this day. Not that I ever do that, but I could! It could also auto-detach attachments and dump them in some folder. If you use Outlook.com, there's a pre-built Flow that does the attachment thing. I imagine you could build one to store emails as plain text, too, if you wanted.
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Sep 23, 2020 23:54
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Hey, my build is less than 2 weeks old on a fresh install of windows and my PC has been locking up. It's killing me and I want to figure out why and don't know where to start as the last few times I've only been using chrome/discord. Opened event viewer and saw this Anyone able to translate what all this is? I can't take screenshots while it's frozen as any app open when it freezes seems to lock up, windows apps won't work, and it won't let me use the task bar/chrome/other random stuff, but I can open other stuff. It won't let me shut down/restart and when I tried to switch user out of curiosity, it just black screened. It also seems to effect my restart as when I restart normally, my last BIOS time is under 15 seconds, though when manually rebooting after a lockup, it's 35-40 seconds. I was able to open Task Manager this last time and it showed my GPU/Memory at normal levels (35/26%) but it showed my GPU at 100% even though I wasn't playing anything. HWMonitor doesn't show said GPU at a high usage or temp. EDIT: I didn't even put the latest crash, that was the first one today. Here's the one that happened ~25 min ago  I remember the lock up happening around 4:54pm or so, which is 4 min before the reboot. DarkestLite fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Sep 24, 2020 |
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Sep 24, 2020 01:05
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Instead of event viewer can you load up Reliability History and see what's crashing there first? Edit: Also the GPU thing makes it sound like you're infected with crypto-mining malware.
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Sep 24, 2020 02:13
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DarkestLite posted:
All the DCOM errors are ignorable bullshit that you can totally ignore. They're the legacy of the microsoft org chart and aren't the cause of your problems -- every fresh win10 install has those. (It's possible to "fix" them, there are instructions out there on the internet for doing so. I don't recommend doing it, because a) you're digging around in deep registry guts and it's not straightforward, and b) I did it and the fix only lasted until the next big update. Soon as a bi-annual major update happened, my event log is back to being spammed with DCOM crap. Instead you can just filter them out by making a copy of the "Administrative Events" view and putting "-10016" in the filter box like so.) As far as your *actual* problem, did you run memtest to check memory stability after putting together your build? That would be my first instinct. DarkestLite posted:I was able to open Task Manager this last time and it showed my GPU/Memory at normal levels (35/26%) but it showed my GPU at 100% even though I wasn't playing anything. HWMonitor doesn't show said GPU at a high usage or temp.
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Sep 24, 2020 02:20
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Anyone know of a cheap solution to backup windows server? The built in Windows Server Backup actually works like crap when you're trying to do a full backup of itself. Everything seems to be super expensive since I'm backing up a Server OS.
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Sep 24, 2020 02:25
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I bought an HDMI switch with audio splitter so that I could swap my secondary monitor between showing my extended desktop and my Nintendo Switch. My problem is that Windows won't let me send audio down towards the secondary monitor because it's (correctly) detected as a monitor without speakers. Of course, I want the sound to go that way anyway because the audio splitter will take care of sending that to my speakers. Can I force the sound anyway? Pretty sure updating the drivers won't work because the problem is that the monitor really doesn't have its own speakers, and Windows isn't aware that there's a device in the middle that wants the sound. The NVIDIA control panel detects the same so I can't make it do it through there either.
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Sep 24, 2020 06:52
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DarkestLite posted:Hey, my build is less than 2 weeks old on a fresh install of windows and my PC has been locking up. It's killing me and I want to figure out why and don't know where to start SFC.exe and DISM Or check drive health with crystaldiskinfo. Or what the other posters said.
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Sep 24, 2020 12:26
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This is a dumb suggestion, but its saved me from troubleshooting strange issues a couple times now with new PC builds: Re-seat the gpu and ram as well as any cables. Turns out real weird poo poo can happen if some components have a loose connection, and googling the issues leads down a rabbit hole of hardware tests and driver problems instead of hinting that one might not have jammed a part in with enough force.
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Sep 24, 2020 12:36
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I mostly answered my own question, but I have a 4k 27" next to a 1440p 27" monitor. Is there a neat way to get the mouse to cross between them at approximately the same physical location? By default the edges are not DPI-aware and the transition is 1:1 in pixels only. The solution I found is this package on github, and while it seems to work and not contain anything obviously malicious, I'm open to alternatives.
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Sep 24, 2020 17:44
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Klyith posted:As far as your *actual* problem, did you run memtest to check memory stability after putting together your build? That would be my first instinct. Did a 6+ hr 4 pass memtest overnight, no errors reported. Quaint Quail Quilt posted:Windows repair? Maybe something's installed improperly and corrupted. No issues with crystaldiskinfo, doing repair now but no dice so far. Fruits of the sea posted:This is a dumb suggestion, but its saved me from troubleshooting strange issues a couple times now with new PC builds: Re-seat the gpu and ram as well as any cables. Turns out real weird poo poo can happen if some components have a loose connection, and googling the issues leads down a rabbit hole of hardware tests and driver problems instead of hinting that one might not have jammed a part in with enough force. This is real dumb but also something I wouldn't put past myself of doing  I'll check it after lunch.For some more info, here's the crashes from the reliability monitor that I totally didn't know was a thing.      For the Halo ones, it never locked up but I did Alt+F4 to close it both times. Is that the "stopped responding"?
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Sep 24, 2020 19:36
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Is Malwarebytes still the go to for free ad hoc malware scanning. I don't need anything running realtime, just something to start up every now and again.
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Sep 25, 2020 02:52
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Gromit posted:I don't need anything running realtime Yes, you do. Just turn on the built-in Windows one.
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Sep 25, 2020 03:41
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What's the status of Windows 7/8.1 upgrade to 10? If I use a thumbdrive I made in January is the old serial or a generic still going to work?
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Sep 25, 2020 04:48
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hooah posted:Yes, you do. Just turn on the built-in Windows one. I already have the Windows virus and threat detection running. I'm talking about malware scans that I can run over my install whenever I feel like it. I used to use Malwarebytes for that, but now it really pushes wanting me to upgrade to the pro version and I'm wondering if there are better options. Or are you suggesting that Windows has now rendered those sorts of things obsolete?
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Sep 25, 2020 04:53
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Unless you're in the habit of using files from dubious sources, such as  , it pretty much has. The Windows Defender detection is good enough for most standard usage. If you want something better, you're better off getting a proper antivirus software rather than Malwarebytes, which (last I checked) doesn't have the best reputation anymore. I might be misremembering, though.
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Sep 25, 2020 05:01
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Absolutely never get a proper antivirus software. Windows Defender is all you need, don't buy third-party virus scanners. That's just a way to hose your installation and spend money on a product that increases your attack surface. If you want more security, enable PUAProtection (protects from adware, "potentially unwanted application") and Network Protection (blocks access to dangerous URLs) for Defender in addition, either through Group Policy/Powershell/Registry. https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/wi...ender-antivirus https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/security/threat-protection/microsoft-defender-atp/enable-network-protection
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Sep 25, 2020 10:12
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I absolutely love the sheer number of lovely antivirus software that will MITM all your https connections even more insecurely (like accepting expired, bad, invalid certs and re-serving a permanently trusted root CA to the browser), install malware vulnerable injectable/XSSable addons, etc.
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Sep 25, 2020 10:32
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Fame Douglas posted:Absolutely never get a proper antivirus software. Windows Defender is all you need, don't buy third-party virus scanners. That's just a way to hose your installation and spend money on a product that increases your attack surface. That's not available for the home user, though, isn't it?
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Sep 25, 2020 10:34
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Moo the cow posted:That's not available for the home user, though, isn't it? Should work on Home as well. They certainly do on Pro.
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Sep 25, 2020 10:57
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Biowarfare posted:I absolutely love the sheer number of lovely antivirus software that will MITM all your https connections even more insecurely (like accepting expired, bad, invalid certs and re-serving a permanently trusted root CA to the browser), install malware vulnerable injectable/XSSable addons, etc. Wasn't there some av that spied on you and then sold your data, too?
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Sep 25, 2020 11:47
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tight aspirations posted:Wasn't there some av that spied on you and then sold your data, too? More than one. Avast was the one that also owned a "buy users personal info and browsing history!!!" company.
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Sep 25, 2020 11:53
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I also pointed my router to an ad blocking dns service, because the school-managed Chromebooks "can't" have an adblocker installed according to the school IT manager *cough*bullshit*cough*kickbacks*cough*
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Sep 25, 2020 12:56
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Fame Douglas posted:Absolutely never get a proper antivirus software. Windows Defender is all you need, don't buy third-party virus scanners. That's just a way to hose your installation and spend money on a product that increases your attack surface. There are many reasons I'm glad I'm no longer with the Geek Squad at Best Buy, but I'm super glad I left before Windows 10 came out. So much of our revenue came from selling Antivirus and Antispyware software with new computers and charging $100 to install it.
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Sep 25, 2020 13:15
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I have some recurring problems with a Windows properly recognizing a specific Bluetooth device, and I can only seem to resolve these problems by restarting Windows. Identical devices have the same problem whenever mine does, so it's not a problem with mine specifically. Restarting Windows always does the trick for a while, until I have to do it again, but I'd rather not. What things should I try restarting so that I don't have to restart the whole machine? I've already tried: Removing the device from the list of paired devices, then pairing it again. Restarting all the services under Services that start with "Bluetooth". Disconnecting and reconnecting the Bluetooth receiver itself. None of these help; as far as I've been able to figure out, only restarting Windows does. Have I missed anything?
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Sep 25, 2020 15:02
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Argue posted:I have some recurring problems with a Windows properly recognizing a specific Bluetooth device, and I can only seem to resolve these problems by restarting Windows. Identical devices have the same problem whenever mine does, so it's not a problem with mine specifically. Restarting Windows always does the trick for a while, until I have to do it again, but I'd rather not. What things should I try restarting so that I don't have to restart the whole machine? Which BT controller ? Update its drivers. If that doesn't work maybe time for a new BT card.
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Sep 25, 2020 15:07
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Argue posted:None of these help; as far as I've been able to figure out, only restarting Windows does. Have I missed anything? Update drivers for the bluetooth receiver? (Also, what's the model of the receiver? If it's old enough that it uses a non-MS bluetooth stack, you should junk it and get a new one.)
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Sep 25, 2020 15:13
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redeyes posted:Which BT controller ? Update its drivers. If that doesn't work maybe time for a new BT card. It's a joycon; I'm using the default drivers because there's always something wrong with the third party ones (typically the others don't want to map all the buttons, or something like that). I even bought a Mayflash but it's missing button mappings too. My Bluetooth just goes through a USB dongle; it's not an expensive one but I would have thought TP-Link would have been a respectable enough brand. I'll see if I can find another one to verify that the problem persists. =========== Edit: Okay, I found my older cheap dongle and was able to connect the controller, but... same problem. I think there's definitely something going on in Windows. With both USB receivers, the controller is paired and connected and detected as a game controller, but not a single button actually registers as input. Also, if this helps any, I can tell when the problem occurs because the LED configuration on the controller is different when it works vs when it doesn't work immediately after connecting. Further things I've tried: Running a number of the third party drivers explicitly meant for joycons--detects controllers, and buttons actually register, but because of one limitation or another with those drivers themselves, not all the buttons are recognized. Which means that the controller IS connected and sending input to Windows, but for some reason it's not being interpreted as a game controller. Uninstalling EVERY bluetooth device on Device Manager--didn't help. Installing a new bluetooth stack (CSR Harmony)--didn't even want to pair, and according to the internet, that stack really can't connect to joycons. Reverted back to default Win 10 stack afterwards. Argue fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Sep 25, 2020 |
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Sep 25, 2020 15:17
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