|
Google voice is the antidote to sim swaps. It's not possible (from what I understand) to attack the google voice number in the same way. That's what I've been using for a few years now. One of the issues that I've seen is some text messages don't seem to go through. My 2FA for my wells fargo account doesn't, so I always have to have them call. Not too annoying all things considered. E: just checked and Ally SMS doesn't seem to go through on my google voice account. sparkmaster fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Sep 18, 2020 |
#
?
Sep 18, 2020 18:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 08:08 |
|
|
At work, they tested all of us for COVID before the semester started back up, and our university-affiliated hospital did the testing. I got my annual credit reports yesterday and I noticed on Equifax that [university] Health did a soft pull on my credit report when I signed up for the test. I don't remember seeing anything about a credit check in the consent documents I signed, even in the fine print. Is this normal? Also, Transunion FICO 8 score is up to 714 after being as low as 509 18 months ago  I have my subsidized federal student loans and a car loan at 5.44% that I'm putting some extra toward just to get ahead. My credit utilization is hovering around 3% since I pay anything I can get a reward or benefit on then pay that card off immediately. That said, I'd like cards with real rewards like miles and hotel points, or at least more than 1% cash back. I have my Amazon Prime card that gets me 5% back there, Discover It with their quarterly 5% deal, then a handful of retail cards that I opened for special offers with the first purchase. -Are those retail cards hurting me in any way? -Should I close cards with no rewards or benefits that I don't use, or just leave them open and not use them? -What cards should I look into for airline points? I prefer JetBlue and I'm not really sure how airline points work (I haven't even been on a plane in almost 15 years) but if upgrading my 6'8" rear end to something with more legroom is something I could do with points, I'd love that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2020 21:23
|
|
|
sparkmaster posted:Google voice is the antidote to sim swaps. It's not possible (from what I understand) to attack the google voice number in the same way. That's what I've been using for a few years now. Google Voice might fix SIM swap attacks, but SMS is still insecure thanks to SS7, the international call routing protocol that lets someone in another country take over your number for calls and SMS. You're probably not going to get hit with an SS7 attack unless you're worth individually targeting - but the same thing is true for SMS swap attacks. SMS 2FA is garbage.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2020 21:30
|
|
|
I have had an increasing number of banks and the like refuse to send texts to my Google Voice number because they somehow have it flagged as a land line.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2020 22:26
|
|
|
I didn't see a rental thread, so here goes: My lease is coming up, and I don't want to move. However, I'm also probably not getting a raise this year so I'm a little sad that my rent will probably go up again. This makes me consider negotiating, but 1: I'm a huge coward and 2: I really, really don't want to have my bluff called. So, I remember hearing about something; you can sometimes extend your lease for a longer period. So, like, instead one year at X, it's two years at X + or - something. It's basically 'locking in' the new rent for a longer period, saving money over time and avoiding future increases. Is that something that actually happens, or is that just some boomer poo poo that doesn't exist anymore? If it matters, I live in MA and rent from a small-ish corporation (maybe 100-150 units total?).
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2020 16:55
|
|
|
Magnetic North posted:I didn't see a rental thread, so here goes: My lease is coming up, and I don't want to move. However, I'm also probably not getting a raise this year so I'm a little sad that my rent will probably go up again. This makes me consider negotiating, but 1: I'm a huge coward and 2: I really, really don't want to have my bluff called. So, I remember hearing about something; you can sometimes extend your lease for a longer period. So, like, instead one year at X, it's two years at X + or - something. It's basically 'locking in' the new rent for a longer period, saving money over time and avoiding future increases. This was just discussed in the negotiation thread. There is some good advice in that thread on what you can try to do.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2020 17:07
|
|
|
I have all my non-401(k) retirement funds and savings stuff with Fidelity and my direct deposit checking and credit cards with Wells Fargo. I'm thinking about moving my checking and credit card stuff to Fidelity so that I can have more of my finances in one place. I've never moved banks before, is there anything I should know about or consider first? I've only used wells fargo all this time because I was a student back in ~2007 and my parents wanted to set up all that stuff for me before I went away for school and WF had the biggest presence at my campus. I don't think I need anything special that only WF does, and I don't have any negative balances, loans or anything complex like that to worry about.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2020 18:30
|
|
|
Magnetic North posted:I didn't see a rental thread, so here goes: My lease is coming up, and I don't want to move. However, I'm also probably not getting a raise this year so I'm a little sad that my rent will probably go up again. This makes me consider negotiating, but 1: I'm a huge coward and 2: I really, really don't want to have my bluff called. So, I remember hearing about something; you can sometimes extend your lease for a longer period. So, like, instead one year at X, it's two years at X + or - something. It's basically 'locking in' the new rent for a longer period, saving money over time and avoiding future increases. You can get a two year lease. If the landlord knows rents trend upward they may not give you the same rate on a two year as a one year.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2020 18:43
|
|
|
Hi thread! Please tell me if I am worrying about nothing or if there is anything I actually "need" to do here. Husband and I own a house (15-year mortgage that we're doing fine on payment-wise), we both work, no kids, we have a financial planner who is handling our retirement accounts (Roth IRA and 403b), but we are also both maxing out our work 401ks as well, we have one car with a loan (also doing fine on payment-wise), we have one credit card that we use for all of our purchases, and we pay it off every month. Husband has one student loan that we are paying off monthly, and it should be paid off within the next couple of years. Is there anything else that we can or should be doing with our money? We eventually want to have kids, so we're putting a lot of money into savings; basically a significant portion of what we don't spend that month we transfer from checking to savings, while still keeping a cushion in checking for our automatic payments. We also would like to sell this house and purchase a slightly larger one in advance of having said child(ren), hopefully sometime next year. Could we be doing anything better or different?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2020 21:53
|
|
|
Skutter posted:Hi thread! Please tell me if I am worrying about nothing or if there is anything I actually "need" to do here. Please tell me everything about your arrangement with the financial planner. What they do, how they are compensated, etc.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2020 21:55
|
|
|
Skutter posted:we have a financial planner who is handling our retirement accounts How much do they charge you and what funds do they have you invested in? Is it Ed Jones?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2020 21:56
|
|
|
Unless you're super debt averse, I would also highly recommend refinancing to a 30 year fixed or choosing that option when you move to a different house. It will give you a ton more flexibility in payments, and these are historically low rates. It's a good hedge against inflation as well. Take the extra cash and use it to pay off the rest of your student loans that are probably at a higher rate than 3% or whatever. Also if your financial planner is just "handling investments" and not doing, you know, actual financial planning, fire them please. That is the biggest thing you should be worried about. Other thoughts: When you have a kid, you should get your estate plan set up with guardianship provisions. Term life insurance if you depend on your spouse or vice versa. Check over your auto and home policies to make sure the coverage is adequate. Talk with both sets of parents to make sure they have their retirement/estate plans okay. Those are the major things that could gently caress you over even if you're doing everything else right.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2020 22:33
|
|
|
GoGoGadgetChris posted:Please tell me everything about your arrangement with the financial planner. What they do, how they are compensated, etc. H110Hawk posted:How much do they charge you and what funds do they have you invested in? Is it Ed Jones? She is a fiduciary financial advisor (used the wrong term "planner", sorry) who received a one-time payment when we signed with her, and we do not get charged any regular fees for her services or the management of our funds. She is with a smaller company and not one of the big ones like Merrill Lynch, Ed Jones, etc. We found her through a retirement seminar that my workplace was hosting. Our investments are split between the following: Vanguard Aggressive 10 Model, Vanguard 2050 Target Date Fund, and Russell Tax Managed Growth Model. We essentially sat down with her in-person with all of our financial documents, discussed our future plans with her (kids, retirement, etc.), and she set up everything for us. moana posted:Unless you're super debt averse, I would also highly recommend refinancing to a 30 year fixed or choosing that option when you move to a different house. It will give you a ton more flexibility in payments, and these are historically low rates. It's a good hedge against inflation as well. Take the extra cash and use it to pay off the rest of your student loans that are probably at a higher rate than 3% or whatever. I think we will be doing a 30-year with the next house, this was our "starter" home that we figured we would outgrow, which is why my husband wanted to do the 15-year. The one student loan Husband has is--according to him and the advisor--not worth paying off early because we would still have to pay the entirety of the interest anyway. We have already set up term life insurance with our planner and have that going. We also had her put us in touch with an estate planner so we can get wills and such taken care of too. Discussing wills with parents is...not going too well. My dad and step-mom are on the ball. Everything is up-to-date, perfectly spelled out with their attorney, filed, etc. My mom and step-dad, on the other hand, my mom gets really upset when I try to talk to her about it. Which is more e/n than BFC, ha. It's something I am working on though. Husband's parents are estranged because the mother is an insane hoarder so, we don't have to worry about them. Let me know if there is anything else I can answer. Thanks for the tips so far!
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2020 23:59
|
|
|
Skutter posted:She is a fiduciary financial advisor (used the wrong term "planner", sorry) who received a one-time payment when we signed with her, and we do not get charged any regular fees for her services or the management of our funds. She is with a smaller company and not one of the big ones like Merrill Lynch, Ed Jones, etc. We found her through a retirement seminar that my workplace was hosting. Our investments are split between the following: Vanguard Aggressive 10 Model, Vanguard 2050 Target Date Fund, and Russell Tax Managed Growth Model. We essentially sat down with her in-person with all of our financial documents, discussed our future plans with her (kids, retirement, etc.), and she set up everything for us. I assume that "tax managed" fund is in a taxable brokerage account and not a IRA? If it's in the latter I would ask about why that over something that doesn't care about taxes.Skutter posted:I think we will be doing a 30-year with the next house, this was our "starter" home that we figured we would outgrow, which is why my husband wanted to do the 15-year. The one student loan Husband has is--according to him and the advisor--not worth paying off early because we would still have to pay the entirety of the interest anyway. We have already set up term life insurance with our planner and have that going. We also had her put us in touch with an estate planner so we can get wills and such taken care of too. Discussing wills with parents is...not going too well. My dad and step-mom are on the ball. Everything is up-to-date, perfectly spelled out with their attorney, filed, etc. My mom and step-dad, on the other hand, my mom gets really upset when I try to talk to her about it. Which is more e/n than BFC, ha. It's something I am working on though. Husband's parents are estranged because the mother is an insane hoarder so, we don't have to worry about them. Sounds like you're doing fine. If your Mom/Step-Dad aren't willing to handle their affairs so be it, you can lead a horse to water and all that. Remind them of the cost of probate perhaps? All you can do is lead by example. I would get the estate planning package in place now, anyone competent will write it to include "your issue" (aka kids), and it will include things like advanced medical directives. We've been trying to get my dad to handle his for years now but I don't think he wants to deal with his wife/my mom whom I am estranged from and he is separated from for similar reasons. Once you have kids you can have it updated cheaply.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2020 00:18
|
|
|
Roumba posted:I have all my non-401(k) retirement funds and savings stuff with Fidelity and my direct deposit checking and credit cards with Wells Fargo. I'm thinking about moving my checking and credit card stuff to Fidelity so that I can have more of my finances in one place. I've never moved banks before, is there anything I should know about or consider first? I personally would leave a little bit of money in the old account for a few months in case there is something that you forget to update that is auto-billing that account. The only thing I would "worry" about (and someone more knowledgeable than me can correct me) is closing the oldest credit card and the affect that may have on your credit score. I see on my credit score report that having an old account is beneficial, which is one of the reasons I keep the credit card I got in high school around (I only use it for Netflix and pay it off ASAP) (I also keep it around as it's a Mastercard and all my other cards are Visas even though that hasn't mattered for when the DMV wasn't accepting Visa like a decade ago).
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2020 00:59
|
|
|
Hi, how do I do thing? I've been working a series of temp jobs for the past year, most of them paying $14/hour. Tuesday, I start a new part-time job that will pay $25/hour. I have one credit card, with about 1.5k on it right now (I made a couple of large purchases recently, to update my wardrobe and replace my shoes), and a chequing account with about 1.5k in it currently. My paycheques are direct deposited into the checking account, and my student loan pulls from there. I have one student loan left to pay off, and I think there's around $4k remaining on it. I'll be calling them Monday, to verify that. It's been paused since March, due to Covid, but is scheduled to restart payments in October; the automatic payment is $258.86. I also have a reservation for a cruise vacation, although the vacation date has actually been pushed to March 2022. The next payment on it isn't until March of 2021, and I don't need to have it paid off in full until January 2022; my current plan is to pay a bit at a time, maybe throwing $50 at it at a time. There's currently about $2,500USD left to pay, if I remember right (I will double check this on Monday as well); I'm not super worried about getting it paid off in time. Things I want: - a car. Not immediately, I'm still working on my full driver's license (I have my learner's now), but I want to be able to go where I want without needing to rely on my parents for a ride or borrow their car. - an apartment or a house of my own. I currently live with my parents (I moved back in last March, after leaving a relationship gone bad), and I've never actually lived somewhere alone. I want to have that, at least for a while, to get used to it. - long-term? I want a house. Somewhere I can paint the walls, and have a cat or a dog, and put up pictures on the walls, and have friends stay overnight (or longer) if they want to. - I also want to be able to retire one day. I'm 32 right now, so I've got another...33 years of work left, I guess? Also, I do live in Canada. Should I get a second credit card? Or is it not a good idea right now?
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2020 00:21
|
|
|
why do you want a second credit card exactly there's a lot going on here but I would start off by making an anticipated budget based on you living on your own, buying a car, etc
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2020 15:59
|
|
|
tinytort posted:I also have a reservation for a cruise vacation, although the vacation date has actually been pushed to March 2022. The next payment on it isn't until March of 2021, and I don't need to have it paid off in full until January 2022; my current plan is to pay a bit at a time, maybe throwing $50 at it at a time. There's currently about $2,500USD left to pay, if I remember right (I will double check this on Monday as well); I'm not super worried about getting it paid off in time. Can you cancel this and get a refund? I would be worried about the company even existing in 1.5 years let alone paying them this far in advance for a vacation. How much have you sunk into this cruise to date? I would seriously see if you can not pay them another dime until a few months before the sail date. Actual, not predicted. They should be not pushing dates out for months by the time you pay them more money. Who knows what they are going to be charging in 2 years, or what you will be doing in 2 years. Make a new account at your free online bank and label it "cruise Jan 2022" and store the money there. Don't store it at some mega company registered in Florida with ships flagged to a landlocked country that could just vanish overnight. Is this some super awesome NatGeo expedition to Antarctica or the Royale carribean plague boat 9000 trip to who cares?
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2020 16:09
|
|
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:why do you want a second credit card exactly Because the limit on the one I have rn is $5.5k, which feels low if I run into an emergency. I'm aware that this could well be brainweasels, which is why I'm asking before doing anything. H110Hawk posted:Can you cancel this and get a refund? I would be worried about the company even existing in 1.5 years let alone paying them this far in advance for a vacation. How much have you sunk into this cruise to date? I would seriously see if you can not pay them another dime until a few months before the sail date. Actual, not predicted. They should be not pushing dates out for months by the time you pay them more money. Who knows what they are going to be charging in 2 years, or what you will be doing in 2 years. I've probably paid about $1kUSD down on the cruise so far. I don't want to cancel, because it will straight-up be impossible to get another berth by the time the cruise rolls around; even if a slot opened up, I'd have to pay in full right then without any of the early booking discounts I currently have. They were already 90% sold out for what would have been the 2021 cruise by the end of the 2020 cruise, and that's been the pattern for the last couple of years.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2020 16:34
|
|
|
tinytort posted:Because the limit on the one I have rn is $5.5k, which feels low if I run into an emergency. I'm aware that this could well be brainweasels, which is why I'm asking before doing anything. If you're dead set on this don't give them any further free loan. Pay them in full on the due date or a month before. If you cannot save the money then you cannot afford it. The fact that it's a charter cruise makes it more likely you will sail eventually assuming whomever that person is doesn't die of the rona between now and then. This presume that the pent up demand for cruises doesn't make a charter impossible to book after one or more companies goes out of business including the one they currently have a charter in.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2020 16:42
|
|
|
tinytort posted:It's the Jonathan Coulton cruise, though - the company isn't going anywhere, This seems like an extremely naïve take in TYOOL 2020.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2020 16:48
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:This seems like an extremely naïve take in TYOOL 2020. And regardless, a 32 year old who lives at home that has no retirement savings, credit card debt and school loan debt who aspires to own a car, move out, buy a home and retire needs to begin by understanding that you don't get to do things like that while also taking expensive fan cruises.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2020 16:50
|
|
|
I was hoping to lead the discussion in that direction through the OP creating a budget rather than potentially making it feel like the OP's hobbies/interests/sources of fun are being attacked, but I absolutely agree.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2020 20:02
|
|
|
tinytort posted:Because the limit on the one I have rn is $5.5k, which feels low if I run into an emergency. I'm aware that this could well be brainweasels, which is why I'm asking before doing anything. I know others are starting to say it , but first thing you really need is an emergency fund. You don’t want a credit card as your first emergency backup. Think of it this way, an emergency is you living on your own, and you lose your job / income. That’s the time when you least want to be having any money drained by using a card that charges probably 20% interest, vs if you have it in a bank account, it’s no negative interest for you. So it’s good to be fretting on “what do I have for an emergency?” I would just switch it from “how much credit do I have,” to “ok, how much do I need to put in the bank?” The standard recommendation is 6 months of expenses or 6 months income.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2020 13:14
|
|
|
Is there a point to having more then one credit card?
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2020 13:41
|
|
|
BigDave posted:Is there a point to having more then one credit card? having too few lines of credit open can prevent you from reaching your highest possible FICO credit score. it helps to have a few cards, use them sparingly but regularly, and pay them off in full each month.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2020 13:45
|
|
|
BigDave posted:Is there a point to having more then one credit card? You can open a card from time to time to get one time bonus rewards , which can be $300-500 for a good number of cards. I wouldn’t necessarily advocate this even yearly for most people , but every once and a while it def is a nice bonus. This assumes you pay on time , don’t pay a yearly fee, etc.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2020 13:54
|
|
|
BigDave posted:Is there a point to having more then one credit card? If you want to min/max rewards. For example, I have a 5% Amazon card, a 6% grocery card, and a general idea card that gets 1%-3% depending on the category. If you don't want to bother with that, you can always just grab a single 2% back on everything card and be fine with the single card.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2020 15:15
|
|
|
BigDave posted:Is there a point to having more then one credit card? I find it handy to carry at least two cards (from different issuers and networks) in case one doesn't work for reason, or there's fraud, .etc.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2020 16:05
|
|
|
BigDave posted:Is there a point to having more then one credit card? They can have different uses and it is nice to have a backup if you lose it or get your numbers stolen and are waiting for the replacement card. For me I use the Citi Double Cash for every day and then I have the BOA travel rewards for the no foreign transaction fees (oh the thought of foreign travel...).
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2020 16:26
|
|
|
pmchem posted:having too few lines of credit open can prevent you from reaching your highest possible FICO credit score. it helps to have a few cards, use them sparingly but regularly, and pay them off in full each month. While this is technically true, it's mostly a micro-optimization that's not worth chasing. Credit Karma and similar free credit score apps/websites love to say "you're falling behind, this component of your score isn't green without 25 open accounts," but that's because their main source of revenue is credit card referral money. Open the number of credit cards that makes sense for you, pay them off in full every month, and your credit score will take care of itself. Small White Dragon posted:I find it handy to carry at least two cards (from different issuers and networks) in case one doesn't work for reason, or there's fraud, .etc. I learned a real good lesson about this when I took my phone out of airplane mode landing in LAX to find a fraud alert waiting for me. When I called Chase, they were kind enough to let me know that my card was locked out. I was on a work trip with a few other folks from the office, and thankfully, a co-worker was able to throw down their card to cover my hotel reservation for the first night. Without that help, I would have had a real rough time. Ever since then, I've carried two cards, issued by separate institutions, whenever I travel.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2020 16:37
|
|
|
spwrozek posted:They can have different uses and it is nice to have a backup if you lose it or get your numbers stolen and are waiting for the replacement card. It was nice to have my OG Mastercard when I was buying groceries and my Amazon card was missing from my wallet. Then I remembered that the lady at the Walgreens drive thru pickup window put it in a bag and stapled it with my medication, which I promptly forgot and threw it away.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2020 17:03
|
|
|
OK gotcha, I was asking because I still have 7 open credit card and I'm trying to decide which ones to axe.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2020 00:58
|
|
|
BigDave posted:OK gotcha, I was asking because I still have 7 open credit card and I'm trying to decide which ones to axe. Average age of your credit lines is a (minor) factor, too, so if you have, a selection of cards you're not using and all other things about them are equal, prefer to cancel the newer ones.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2020 01:06
|
|
|
BigDave posted:OK gotcha, I was asking because I still have 7 open credit card and I'm trying to decide which ones to axe. I probably have closer to a dozen than 6 open lines of credit on my report. Don't ever be late or overutilize it or pay an annual fee. Otherwise stop worrying about it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2020 01:11
|
|
|
How feasible is it to do exclusively online banking? I use a local credit union for checking and savings but I'm moving to a new state where they have no branches. Thinking I might just switch to entirely online, but I wonder about things like depositing checks, and occasional services like cashier's checks and medallion signatures. Alternatively is there a national bank that isn't complete poo poo in terms of fees, interest rates and customer service?
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2020 14:59
|
|
|
Devonaut posted:How feasible is it to do exclusively online banking? I use a local credit union for checking and savings but I'm moving to a new state where they have no branches. Thinking I might just switch to entirely online, but I wonder about things like depositing checks, and occasional services like cashier's checks and medallion signatures. I’ve used an online only bank for 10+ years, as have a lot of people here. I use Ally, but there’s a few like Ally, Capitol One, etc that are all fine. They’re all FDIC insured which is what’s important. Can’t speak to medallion signatures , but depositing checks is just taking a picture and it shows up next day. They waive the first $10 in ATM fees. We get cash so infrequently that it’s fine. The main downside is there is no way to deposit cash. For me, I almost never have a need to do that , but def worth mentioning. Ally, and I think most online banks, has very few fees, no minimums , so it’s pretty straight firsts. I think there’s a few if I transfer from my savings account more than 5 or 6 times in a month. Rates go with interest rates. A year ago my savings rate with Ally was 2%. Now it’s 0.6%. Still better than say, Bank of America, but yeah, good interest rates are hard to come by. Ally customer service has always been very good , they pickup right away, etc. my bank account got stolen 3 years ago (ATM skimmer) and they fixed it in just about a week (for a bank, vs credit card, not a bad turn around). Personally, I have no problem recommending an online banking account, although I would check local credit unions , see if any of them where you are moving happen to have some good rates.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2020 15:07
|
|
|
Devonaut posted:How feasible is it to do exclusively online banking? I use a local credit union for checking and savings but I'm moving to a new state where they have no branches. Thinking I might just switch to entirely online, but I wonder about things like depositing checks, and occasional services like cashier's checks and medallion signatures. Check to see if they have any affiliate/network relationships with CUs in your new state. I know that BECU for instance here in Washington let’s me make deposits at a couple of other CUs if I need to. And I can use a network of non BECU branded ATMs with no fee.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2020 15:41
|
|
|
Devonaut posted:How feasible is it to do exclusively online banking? I use a local credit union for checking and savings but I'm moving to a new state where they have no branches. Thinking I might just switch to entirely online, but I wonder about things like depositing checks, and occasional services like cashier's checks and medallion signatures. How often do you need cashiers checks and medallion signatures though? I've done 1 and 0 of those things in my life. I do a hybrid with ally serving 99% of my needs and I maintain a free local account with citi just in case. Unless you get checks over $50k (or $250k for Fidelity, I assume Vanguard is similar) you can do it all online. I would transition slowly and see what you miss. There has to be a credit union where you are going if you want something in person.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2020 15:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 08:08 |
|
|
Devonaut posted:How feasible is it to do exclusively online banking? I use a local credit union for checking and savings but I'm moving to a new state where they have no branches. Thinking I might just switch to entirely online, but I wonder about things like depositing checks, and occasional services like cashier's checks and medallion signatures. Pretty easy. You can just get a national change account or a local credit union checking account if you need it. Most have a way to have a free checking account, usually you just have to have direct deposit. I use Ally and Charles Schwab and keep a Chase checking account since it doesn't cost anything.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2020 15:56
|
|