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Cooked Auto posted:https://www.reptilian-overlords.com/product/enemy-heads-collection/ Oh heck that's perfect. Also I might just put a banana magazine on whatever the donor WW2 figure comes with, because that's what 80s Hasbro would have done.
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Sep 27, 2020 02:05
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Does anyone have a good trick for keeping track of the polarity of really small magnets? I'm working with .062" magnets and they're really difficult manage. At one point I tried to paint one side of them, but that doesn't work and I'm not sure they were actually all the same polarity anyway. I'm used to working with 1/8" magnets which are large enough that I can check them as I go but these tiny fuckers are too hard for me to keep track of like that, and ultimately I'm going to need to keep these consistent/compatible across multiple models.
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Sep 27, 2020 19:55
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I keep a model with magnets already imbedded nearby, check the polarity right there and then use a sharpie to mark which side is out. Then I put it in the my target model. Basically, each one gets checked and idiot proofed right before they get put in.
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Sep 27, 2020 20:02
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Lock a small stack together that you can use as a bridge when testing. That way you know the top and bottom will match.
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Sep 27, 2020 20:08
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rantmo posted:Does anyone have a good trick for keeping track of the polarity of really small magnets? I'm working with .062" magnets and they're really difficult manage. At one point I tried to paint one side of them, but that doesn't work and I'm not sure they were actually all the same polarity anyway. I'm used to working with 1/8" magnets which are large enough that I can check them as I go but these tiny fuckers are too hard for me to keep track of like that, and ultimately I'm going to need to keep these consistent/compatible across multiple models. Get a wooden dowel and paint one side blue and the other side red (or just write N and S on them) then glue a magnet from one side of your magnet stack to one side of the dowel and then vice versa on the other side.
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Sep 27, 2020 20:52
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Ugh. Glad this came up. Going to refit my Vyper jetbike and want three swappable guns for it and was just working through how to do it. I don't like the whole gunner seat thing, so I'm trying to figure out a way to "mount" the guns on it.
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Sep 27, 2020 21:52
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NC Wyeth Death Cult posted:I keep a model with magnets already imbedded nearby, check the polarity right there and then use a sharpie to mark which side is out. Then I put it in the my target model. Basically, each one gets checked and idiot proofed right before they get put in. I like the wooden stick idea, but this worked for me. I just need a pair of non-magnetic tweezers - even the little magnets will jump for anything remotely ferrous.
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Sep 27, 2020 22:42
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I do admit my way is really simple: When putting a magnet on a body/chassis I attach a magnet onto an already magnetized gun/limb then use that to push the new magnet into the body. Same thing but reverse for putting a magnet on a gun/limb So far I haven't screwed this up yet
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Sep 27, 2020 22:44
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Speaking of magnetizing, if you have a Dremel tool an carving/engraving bit is a godsend. https://smile.amazon.com/Dremel-194-High-Speed-Cutter/dp/B00008ZA00/ This for example will perfectly match a 1/8" magnet, and you can usually find one that will match the exact size of magnet you're using for the project. It makes creating a perfect hole so much easier and the bottom of it will be flat so the magnet will sit in there nicely.
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Sep 27, 2020 23:27
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Crosspost from the 40k thread.Cooked Auto posted:I finished a model this week.
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Sep 28, 2020 00:23
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I had these half done when I started painting Kobolds, so I finished them up.  They're a bit more warcrafty than I'd normally like, and I'd definitely prefer heavier armor, but since I run a bronze age / iron age game and most of the humans are equally shirtless barbarians? Eh, they're fine.  These were a nightmare to print, though. After one of them in particular (in an archer pose) failed to print five times I gave up on her. I suspect it has something to do with the resin I was using at the time, I've had much better luck with all of my prints since I switched away from ceramic gray. PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Sep 28, 2020 |
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Sep 28, 2020 02:35
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 big time WIP here but there's just something about jamming a bit of moss onto these guys that feels right
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Sep 29, 2020 00:15
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Sep 29, 2020 13:48
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This guy's helmet pains me physically, but I've painted and repainted it so many times I have to call it quits before I turn him into a blobhead. Turns out painting white without an airbrush loving suuuuuuuuuuuuucks and I couldn't airbrush the head separately because I glued the head on before painting. But overall, not bad IMO, and I loving love the insane "we stapled a cyber skeleton onto a golden eagle" standard.  Bladeguard Ancient from the new Indomitus starter set.
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Sep 29, 2020 14:31
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That ancient looks good! I really wasn’t into the over-the-top skulls-on-skulls look when the Indomitus Blade Guard were previewed, but some of them have started showing up at my house. I like the look of the Grey Knights but want them in Primaris proportions...
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Sep 29, 2020 15:34
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:5 boys down. Lots... and lots... to go. xpost
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Sep 29, 2020 15:41
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Could anyone suggest a less pricey alternative or substitute to the AK products line of grime enamels, please?
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Sep 29, 2020 16:34
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SERPUS posted:Could anyone suggest a less pricey alternative or substitute to the AK products line of grime enamels, please? Oil paints and thinners? Ever since I got into oil paints (specifically Abteilung 502 since they claim to be specifically formulated for miniature / scale model work, but really because they are actually cheaper than non-toilet quality oil paints in Finland), I've stopped using the premade stuff. You can do streaks, grime, dust effects etc really easily with just your garden variety oil paints and a suitable thinner. E: just a quick example of stuff I had handy, the dust and grime on the Challenger 2 and the grime and gunk on the T-34-85 were all done with oil paints as my first practise pieces a few years ago.   
Shaman Tank Spec fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Sep 29, 2020 |
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Sep 29, 2020 17:12
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some good boys
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Sep 29, 2020 17:28
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Der Shovel posted:This guy's helmet pains me physically, but I've painted and repainted it so many times I have to call it quits before I turn him into a blobhead. My best results with white as far as acrylics are concerned have come from multiple layers of vallejo ivory or white thinned with either glaze medium or white ink; I just started with white ink as a thinner and it seems to work really well for this. I don't remember where I saw this tip but it definitely works.
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Sep 29, 2020 17:44
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Has anyone painted a primaris impulsor for 40k? It looks like I would struggle to paint the control panel and underneath the benches in the back when it's all put together.  How would I go about painting in sub-assemblies on this thing?
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Sep 29, 2020 19:33
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Psyber Spine posted:Has anyone painted a primaris impulsor for 40k? It looks like I would struggle to paint the control panel and underneath the benches in the back when it's all put together. I haven't painted mine yet but the top plate where the gun / shield dome sits can be left unglued to assemble after painting. [
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Sep 29, 2020 19:58
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Psyber Spine posted:Has anyone painted a primaris impulsor for 40k? It looks like I would struggle to paint the control panel and underneath the benches in the back when it's all put together. Paint then put together?
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Sep 29, 2020 20:15
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honestly, without lighting specifically designed to show it off, you can't see back in there all that well anyway. Its a solid piece above the normal open back, so I just painted them separate, but then when putting it together noticed it wasn't particularly visible.
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Sep 29, 2020 20:18
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Mirthless posted:My best results with white as far as acrylics are concerned have come from multiple layers of vallejo ivory or white thinned with either glaze medium or white ink; I just started with white ink as a thinner and it seems to work really well for this. I don't remember where I saw this tip but it definitely works. White ink, I didn't even know it existed. Definitely going to look for some!
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Sep 29, 2020 20:37
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BetterWeirdthanDead posted:I really wasn’t into the over-the-top skulls-on-skulls look ... Warhammer may not be the game for you 
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Sep 29, 2020 21:09
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Continued WIP:  Gonna try a wash on the vines and if I can't get them to look a little better I'll try for some drybrushing until I get it right. Paint overall needs to be finished. Might add flowers to the vines if I can get them to work right. Not sure how to paint the gun! I know what glow I want to use but have trouble getting good contrast with metal colors. If I can get copper and brass to look good on the gun itself I may try that to match the tubing. May paint some test guns. Der Shovel posted:White ink, I didn't even know it existed. Definitely going to look for some! Liquitex titanium white is what I am using, it is opaque and marked as such on the bottle I have heard in youtube tutorials and such that white ink can bleed sometimes when certain paints are applied or washes are used so you will probably want to do some test models first and seal with varnish if need be (I use mister super clear) Mirthless fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Sep 29, 2020 |
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Sep 29, 2020 21:14
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Psyber Spine posted:Has anyone painted a primaris impulsor for 40k? It looks like I would struggle to paint the control panel and underneath the benches in the back when it's all put together. I'm not done construction yet on my Impulsor, but I plan to magnet both the 4 different add-on configurations, and maybe also that "truck lid" thing they sit on to open up the back/make it easier to paint
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Sep 29, 2020 23:06
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Psyber Spine posted:Has anyone painted a primaris impulsor for 40k? It looks like I would struggle to paint the control panel and underneath the benches in the back when it's all put together. Took a couple of pics. I am just blu-tacking on the top plate and the grav plates for priming, then I'll remove them to paint and glue on for final.  
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Sep 30, 2020 04:51
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Guilliman is a much better space dad than the Emperor. The first thing he did after coming back was get all his boys toboggans. 
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Sep 30, 2020 05:15
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The impulsor has a rule where the unit can disembark even after it's moved. I like to imagine it does a big power slide 180 and the troops just get flung out of the back by the g forces. I'll just paint it all stuck together with the roof off.
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Sep 30, 2020 09:05
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Extremely fitting for 40k dystopia that two paints called mechanicus standard are completely different colours.
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Sep 30, 2020 15:29
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XP from 40k thread since I was posting progress shots here:     Still some touchup to do and basing but I am really happy with how this is turning out
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Sep 30, 2020 16:30
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Mirthless posted:Still some touchup to do and basing but I am really happy with how this is turning out That's a great concept, and the vines are looking realistic now. Good on you.
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Sep 30, 2020 16:54
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Silhouette posted:Warhammer may not be the game for you I also thought I was long-over Steampunk but started painting Kharadron Overlords, so it may just be that 2020 has broken me.
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Sep 30, 2020 20:18
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Mr Teatime posted:Extremely fitting for 40k dystopia that two paints called mechanicus standard are completely different colours. I've had the same problem with other spray paint versions of colours as well
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Sep 30, 2020 20:54
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always make it a rule that you don't use spraypaint as a base coat
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Sep 30, 2020 20:59
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Does anyone here use makeup brushes for drybrushing and if so, what shape do you recommend?
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Sep 30, 2020 21:14
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Yeah, so many of my minis have been ruined because I can't control myself with a spray can and get a too thick primer. I just use a brush and paint now and prime them while they are still on the sprue.
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Sep 30, 2020 21:15
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rantmo posted:Does anyone here use makeup brushes for drybrushing and if so, what shape do you recommend? If you're just getting it for general drybrushing, whatever's cheap and locally available at the dollar store or dollar general, or cheap at the beauty supply store - you don't want expensive or fancy brushes, and as far as shape goes, I don't think it really matters that much. Smaller ones are going to be better for drybrushing smaller areas, the most important thing is that you want the head to be very soft. It's nice to have a variety, every brush head is gonna apply a little different and stipple a little different and it's hard to say what's gonna be best without trying it out first.
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Sep 30, 2020 21:22
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