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H110Hawk posted:I see you got this fixed, but you put in a 10G SFP+ into a 1G SFP slot? That's your problem.
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Oct 3, 2020 02:07
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Buff Hardback posted:According to unifi, you should be able to use the 10g SFP+ DAC they sell to go from the UDM to their switchgear with only SFP. Right, I'm using the same SFP+ cable set to 1Gbps.
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Oct 3, 2020 02:44
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TraderStav posted:Right, I'm using the same SFP+ cable set to 1Gbps. SFP/SFP+ interactions is such a wild west that if it's working for you great, I'm merely repeating what UBNT support said to me in an email when I asked about the SFP/SFP+ ports being used together.
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Oct 3, 2020 04:10
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Thread Related: I am spending a nice new luxury car amount of money to get fiber installed ot my prem, like, aerial and trenched sections, brought to my house. I'm insane. But that's what 2020 did to my brain and god damnit if im not going to get that pure gig uplink
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Oct 3, 2020 04:23
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Sniep posted:Thread Related: I am spending a nice new luxury car amount of money to get fiber installed ot my prem, like, aerial and trenched sections, brought to my house. Who is doing this? A clec or lec?
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Oct 3, 2020 05:57
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Is there a thread recommended brand for a Ethernet-over-Powerline adapter? I'm stuck in a poorly wired townhome and want my office upstairs wired. I was looking at the NETGEAR PowerLINE 1000mbps that uses the Homeplug AV2 spec. I've never had to suffer to this degree, so wondering if there's anything I should look out for. My other option is just to straddle a flat Ethernet cable up the staircase into the upstairs bedroom, but if this actually functions as described I think it will be a bit cleaner.
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Oct 3, 2020 18:01
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dox posted:Is there a thread recommended brand for a Ethernet-over-Powerline adapter? I'm stuck in a poorly wired townhome and want my office upstairs wired. I was looking at the NETGEAR PowerLINE 1000mbps that uses the Homeplug AV2 spec. I've never had to suffer to this degree, so wondering if there's anything I should look out for. Buy from somewhere with a return policy. They tend to either work or not work. Otherwise a long cable + staples for that nerd-chic look.
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Oct 3, 2020 18:11
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^^ I've had at least one die and have another that needs a hard reset once a week, but it was too expensive to just dump. I've found paying extra for the power plug pass-through is absolutely worth it if that helps. .
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Oct 3, 2020 18:36
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I'm running mostly TP-Link 1300mbit powerline adapters in my 1964 house with original wiring and maxing out my 100mbit connection up and down on devices on the same phase. It drops to 50ish Mbit on another phase, where I cheaped out and got 300 Mbit adapters, but still a rock solid connection and easy setup. Using a modem-> RT-N66U -> switch -> powerline setup. E: definitely get them with passthrough and without the WiFi add-on. And be able to return them if it doesn't work out. E2: Dont know if phase is the right word - I mean... uh, electric groups/areas that share fuses? Mzuri fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Oct 3, 2020 |
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Oct 3, 2020 19:43
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H110Hawk posted:Who is doing this? A clec or lec? My county public utilities district runs a fiber network, people can just connect if they are willing to pay for it. Ideally with a grip of neighbors, but nobody around me cares so im just doing it solo.
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Oct 3, 2020 20:33
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So I am trying to figure out the next evolution of my home network. We went from me working from home to everyone working/learning from home, plus have more devices, and it is testing our wifi. First I just had a cable modem and a TP-link 1750AC, plus a little switch for printers and random wired stuff in the office. It was a good little router/wifi combo but was getting overworked. I put in an EdgeRouterX and made the 1750 a wireless access point. I also put in 1GB connections between the router and everything I could. This helped a lot. Before the wireless devices were having connection and speed issues, probably due to all traffic going through the 1750. Segmenting traffic fixed this. It is also nice having my work laptop wired 1GB. Now since everyone is home we are more spread out and the signal is not cutting it given everyone is on Zoom or whatever. My thoughts are to unplug the 1750, thank it for its service and put it on a shelf and then get some sort of meshed network. The problem I am running into is that the meshed stuff I am seeing want to be all in one wifi/router solutions, and I am not sure how that will jive with the wired router. I have had IOT stuff be unhappy that the wireless access point (I feel odd writing WAP) is not the default gateway. Plus it seems wrong to spend money on router functionality when you don't need it. Are there decent WAPs that do mesh? I am not able to cable access points apart from one connected to the wired router. I am thinking of all this now because I see that the TP-Link Deco Whole Home Mesh WiFi is 150 on Amazon and looks interesting, but I worry that the routing it does will conflict with my setup, and the docs I see seem to assume you will just plug it into your modem. Plus Ubiquiti is recommended here, but a lot of those WAPs look to be wired.
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Oct 3, 2020 20:35
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Sniep posted:My county public utilities district runs a fiber network, people can just connect if they are willing to pay for it. Ideally with a grip of neighbors, but nobody around me cares so im just doing it solo. Nice. How many feet (miles?) of fiber are you installing?
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Oct 3, 2020 20:35
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SubjectVerbObject posted:So I am trying to figure out the next evolution of my home network. We went from me working from home to everyone working/learning from home, plus have more devices, and it is testing our wifi.
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Oct 3, 2020 20:40
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H110Hawk posted:Nice. How many feet (miles?) of fiber are you installing? 3000ft aerial & 500ft underground trenched $34,000 Yes, 2020 has given me brain disease, but I don't care... It's my fiber on a public backbone with choice of a half dozen ISPs for internet transit all at gig/gig speeds. I'm not locked into any particular ISP so if i want to step up to actually push p95 traffic levels of commercial rates i can switch billing up to that easily with my pick of providers, all to my house. it's not like centurylink or nothing
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Oct 3, 2020 23:24
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Sniep posted:3000ft aerial & 500ft underground trenched I'm really jealous. A coworker was talking about trying to get fiber to his house in the Middle of Nowhere but it's ATT poles and they give 0 fucks. Not "how much" but "how bout you gently caress off." Pasadena has muni fiber but will not hookup homes due to monopoly agreements with the various incumbents. My town is similar but without the muni fiber ring - it's frontier, spectrum, or nothing. I can see a Zayo manhole from my house.
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Oct 3, 2020 23:52
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H110Hawk posted:I'm really jealous. A coworker was talking about trying to get fiber to his house in the Middle of Nowhere but it's ATT poles and they give 0 fucks. Not "how much" but "how bout you gently caress off." Pasadena has muni fiber but will not hookup homes due to monopoly agreements with the various incumbents. My town is similar but without the muni fiber ring - it's frontier, spectrum, or nothing. I can see a Zayo manhole from my house. the thing is i am absolutely in the middle of nowhere, relatively speaking (Port Orchard, WA, population 14,200, between gig harbor and bremerton, on the peninsula west of the puget sound... it's not like a suburb of Denver like i just moved from where it was dense AF but comcast sued any competition out of existence that tried to move in) I can't believe that this county (Kitsap) has this, all just a community effort over the past like 5 years to allow people to pay their own runs, i got so lucky
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Oct 4, 2020 02:15
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Sniep posted:the thing is i am absolutely in the middle of nowhere, relatively speaking (Port Orchard, WA, population 14,200, between gig harbor and bremerton, on the peninsula west of the puget sound... it's not like a suburb of Denver like i just moved from where it was dense AF but comcast sued any competition out of existence that tried to move in) I forgot you were in the PNW. I moved from downtown to a place on the hill, and gave up WaveG for loving Comcast. Port Orchard is pretty nice. Almost zero chance I can pay for fiber here even though I'm sure there's fiber backbone less than 2000 ft away. (poo poo, Seattle Internet Exchange is like 1 mile away). I've always entertained ending up on Bainbridge though. Honestly, now that I think about it, I could probably put up a 60 GHz link and get some insane connectivity if I found someone willing to put up a dish on their end. New question for thread.... I have all these now useless phone jacks in my house, and I think the remains of an intercom system. What hardware do I need if I want to make those "live" again, for the purposes of providing either a VoIP adapter (learn how to set it up networking wise), or more likely, a fake BBS / ISP if I want some of my retroputers to dial out via modem? Is it really just a PCI hardware modem + Linux and I can do the rest w/ Asterisk / software? Or at this point I'm sure someone's gotten a USB RPi PBX thing working, so I can throw this all in a NEMA box in my basement. Bonus points if I can somehow wire in my incoming phone line (currently dead) as a switchover should I decide to turn it for a few months.
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Oct 4, 2020 02:24
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movax posted:I forgot you were in the PNW. I moved from downtown to a place on the hill, and gave up WaveG for loving Comcast. Port Orchard is pretty nice. Almost zero chance I can pay for fiber here even though I'm sure there's fiber backbone less than 2000 ft away. (poo poo, Seattle Internet Exchange is like 1 mile away). I've always entertained ending up on Bainbridge though. My memory of using house phone wiring for VoIP was that the main things were how many outlets/length of cable you were trying to support, and that you had to disconnect the trunk line so the house wiring was not connected to the actual phone company landline. Disconnect from the mains and a basic VoIP unit could light up a few phone jacks without a problem. I don't remember how many or much else in the way of specifics.
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Oct 4, 2020 05:52
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if your'e talking about REL's i think most all voip stuff wants just 1 phone on it if it's anything somewhat drawing of power. frankly im not sure that old school analog ringer phones even work on most voip poo poo, but could be wrong, i just remember up till like 2008 or so tech sucking rear end im sure its better now
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Oct 4, 2020 06:30
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You can definitely run VoIP PBXs on a Pi (Asterisk is open source, 3CX you can use for free with a limited number of simultaneous calls supported) but I think you will still need a VoIP service to connect to. I'm not aware of a Pi project that can act as the VoIP gateway itself to interface with a regular phone line, if that's what you were looking for. I suppose you could probably use an ATA, though I don't know how you'd get the actual audio to go through the Pi and out to the ATA. But, most of these systems run over ethernet, so I'm not sure if you could use your current old phone wiring to do something similar.
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Oct 4, 2020 06:46
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How much better are the Ubiquiti APs as far as signal strength and coverage compared to a TP-link Archer C7? The internet connection enters at a lower corner of my house and the current AP is pretty close to it. I am starting to wonder how many of my issues (mainly connectivity to upstairs and rear of house) could be solved by moving the AP 4 feet higher and 8 towards the interior. I would love to have a Ubiquiti Unifi AC pro right in the middle of the house but running the wire would be an issue. 2600 sq ft house.
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Oct 5, 2020 15:18
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Position of access points and the physical environment is 99% of Wi-Fi performance. If you have a poor experience then just swapping a router for a Unifi AP is not likely to bring huge improvements.
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Oct 5, 2020 19:08
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SubjectVerbObject posted:How much better are the Ubiquiti APs as far as signal strength and coverage compared to a TP-link Archer C7? The internet connection enters at a lower corner of my house and the current AP is pretty close to it. I am starting to wonder how many of my issues (mainly connectivity to upstairs and rear of house) could be solved by moving the AP 4 feet higher and 8 towards the interior. I would love to have a Ubiquiti Unifi AC pro right in the middle of the house but running the wire would be an issue. 2600 sq ft house. I have tested the placement of wifi APs by just moving the AP around the room it's in and then going to other parts of the house to run connection tests. Sometimes you can get much better coverage and speed by doing this. I once got a good result by buying a long phone cord for a few dollars so that I could put a DSL modem (and the router/AP connected to it) on the other side of the room that it was in. I don't know if the "power" of a Ubiquiti AP is better than an Archer router, but for me it was a big stability upgrade. My Archer router was hanging and rebooting every time we tried to run Zoom meetings on two computers at the same time, and just by turning off the Archer's wifi and adding a Unifi AP for wifi, we then got rock solid stability.
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Oct 5, 2020 19:21
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When I was running my own business in between jobs I went to a house once where they complained of poor wifi signal. ISP had installed the router downstairs, in an office, in a closet, mounted underneath the bottom shelf. See this poo poo all the time. They should be training their own people and doing it well and making it a point to do it right instead or wrong or lazily. Or go full capitalism like one company did here and just start advertising wifi extenders.
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Oct 5, 2020 19:21
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Any recommendations on pfSense hardware for gigabit? Look for old used hardware that's fast enough? Prebuilt stuff?
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Oct 5, 2020 19:31
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Unless you're going to start running fibre all the way to the TV in the main room it makes a lot more sense to split up the duties of the router/gateway and the device doing the Wi-Fi. I can see why all-in-one devices are popular but the needs of a device designed to connect to a cable that enters through an exterior wall, and a device designed to make a very weak RF signal be heard throughout a house are completely different.
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Oct 5, 2020 19:32
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KingKapalone posted:Any recommendations on pfSense hardware for gigabit? Look for old used hardware that's fast enough? Prebuilt stuff? pfSense doesn't need much to be over-powered. People commonly use old PCs with a couple network cards thrown in. It is built on top of FreeBSD, so any hardware supported by that OS will function fine. If you lookup pfsense on Amazon you'll get a good selection of small industrial type PCs made for the task.. The cheapest of which is a barebone configuration here: https://www.amazon.com/Firewall-Micro-Appliance-Gigabit-Barebone/dp/B01KLECNDG/ You have to add RAM and a mSATA drive. You can also get them with that included: https://www.amazon.com/Firewall-Micro-Appliance-Gigabit-Intel/dp/B01KLEI1MI/ There are variants with more than 2 ports... The extra ports can be configured as additional interfaces in pfSense if desired. Myself I bought one of these little PCs; a i3-4030u variant with 4GB of RAM and 16GB mSATA SSD. It is way overpowered for the task; never going over 15% CPU usage on my Gigabit fiber connection. But it works fantastically!
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Oct 5, 2020 20:00
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I use an ancient Dell i3-2100 workstation I got for free with an extra NIC in it as my pfsense box. It doesn't use too much power, but I would eventually like to move to a low power rack mount appliance. The system doesn't use that much power, it's mostly getting it off a shelf and into the rack I have. I'm on 500mbit fiber and the CPU doesn't even blink at the load. The only thing about it being that old is it doesn't have the onboard AES -NI crypto if that matters to you.
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Oct 5, 2020 20:09
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Lutha Mahtin posted:I have tested the placement of wifi APs by just moving the AP around the room it's in and then going to other parts of the house to run connection tests. Sometimes you can get much better coverage and speed by doing this. I once got a good result by buying a long phone cord for a few dollars so that I could put a DSL modem (and the router/AP connected to it) on the other side of the room that it was in. So we are trying to have redundant/hot spare hardware for our network, and I need to get a spare AP anyway. I will try a Ubiquiti AP and see how it goes. I just did some testing with Wifi Analyzer, and really the signal strength drop is not that much. But the complaint is not so much slowness as dropped connections. Sometimes streaming video will hand for 60 seconds, but a speed test will show 50mb connection. One thing that was apparent is there are a number of other networks close by on the same channel. I am going to use the new AP install as an experiment and spend some time to do what I can to segregate our network - different channel, moving more central to the house, blasting the neighbor's signals with overwhelming power, whatever else I can find. I will try to report back. And yeah, putting in an ER-X and turning the Archer C7 into an AP really helped.
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Oct 5, 2020 20:11
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KingKapalone posted:Any recommendations on pfSense hardware for gigabit? Look for old used hardware that's fast enough? Prebuilt stuff? For prebuilt, devices from these companies get recommended often in r/pfsense. https://protectli.com/product-comparison/ http://qotom.net/
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Oct 5, 2020 20:13
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I have an old i5-4670k with RAM, mobo, case, and PSU I have up on Craigslist for like $200. Not selling though. I'd need to get an SSD, a CPU cooler and another NIC. Having another PC with a 500W PSU in it though running 24/7 must have some impact on my energy bill though I assume. Buying a new $200 router and then needing two APs sure doesn't end up being very economical.
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Oct 5, 2020 20:43
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Lutha Mahtin posted:I don't know if the "power" of a Ubiquiti AP is better than an Archer router, but for me it was a big stability upgrade. My Archer router was hanging and rebooting every time we tried to run Zoom meetings on two computers at the same time, and just by turning off the Archer's wifi and adding a Unifi AP for wifi, we then got rock solid stability. The same is true with the reverse too. Long ago, I stopped using consumer wifi routers for actual routing, but I've gotten rock solid WiFi performance with low-end TP-Link and Asus routers after turning off NAT and using it as a WiFi access point only and relying on a wired router for NAT. I still haven't felt a need to get Ubiquiti AP's.
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Oct 5, 2020 20:49
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KingKapalone posted:I have an old i5-4670k with RAM, mobo, case, and PSU I have up on Craigslist for like $200. Not selling though. I'd need to get an SSD, a CPU cooler and another NIC. Having another PC with a 500W PSU in it though running 24/7 must have some impact on my energy bill though I assume. Yeah, the cost can add up quickly. If you're just trying to find something for gigabit, pretty much any halfway decent consumer router from the last 5 years can easily do that.
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Oct 5, 2020 21:16
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80k posted:The same is true with the reverse too. Long ago, I stopped using consumer wifi routers for actual routing, but I've gotten rock solid WiFi performance with low-end TP-Link and Asus routers after turning off NAT and using it as a WiFi access point only and relying on a wired router for NAT. I still haven't felt a need to get Ubiquiti AP's. This is exactly what I experienced. Going from the Archer C7 doing everything to off loading multiple GB interfaces to an ER-X really helped streaming to wireless devices for example. It has been fine for years, but finally working and schooling from home, and spreading out across the house with wireless work/school devices is what is making me want to do more. Also, if I want to mount the AP somewhere, the Ubiquitis look like they do it better. And if we somehow need to do Mesh in a 2600 sq ft house I would just get a lite. And Covid stress is making me want to spend money.
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Oct 5, 2020 21:35
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KingKapalone posted:I have an old i5-4670k with RAM, mobo, case, and PSU I have up on Craigslist for like $200. Not selling though. I'd need to get an SSD, a CPU cooler and another NIC. Having another PC with a 500W PSU in it though running 24/7 must have some impact on my energy bill though I assume. Not as much as you think. Just because it has a 500 watt PSU does not mean its pulling that all the time. My Intel i7-4790k Plex server with SSD and a couple spinning disks is surprisingly only around 75 watts at idle. Even less if any of the disks spin down.
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Oct 5, 2020 21:58
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Yeah I'm running a HP DL380 G7 w 2 CPUs, 48gb ram and 8 HDDs and it only pulls about 100-150w with my workload. For my area that's about $110 a year.
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Oct 5, 2020 22:11
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A YouTuber called ETAPrime just did a video on what was better for $100 for desktop use: Pi4 8gb Vs $100 old business dell slab from eBay The dell won pretty handily, and pulled ~25watts The pi did ok, but it pulled like 4watts I was surprised at both being that low, tbh
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Oct 5, 2020 22:27
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A 5th-gen Core i5 Optiplex with a SATA SSD is going to be enough power for probably 99% of office workloads.
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Oct 5, 2020 22:43
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Trying to set up a friend's AP, goes into router mode immediately, go in change the ip range to an unused and same ip base range, but now the laptop can't see the new network, ugh This was after changing it to ap mode
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Oct 5, 2020 23:37
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KingKapalone posted:Any recommendations on pfSense hardware for gigabit? Look for old used hardware that's fast enough? Prebuilt stuff? HP T620 Plus or HP T730 thin clients also work pretty well for this, along with a 2 or 4 port half height NIC (the HP versions of intel NICs are cheaper). The 620 Plus uses 6-11W and can be had for <$150 all in.
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Oct 5, 2020 23:58
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