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OgreNoah posted:It's actually 29"x56", long enough for two people to a side.. The pin is set between two hinges, and it's about 1/2" diameter steel pin. Ah, 2.5' x 5', more or less. My intuition is that's getting a little long to not have some reinforcement running down the length of the table; you might see some sagging in the middle from regular use. Thank you for clarifying how the steel pin works. My concern with that setup is that if the wood gets indented where the pin rests (plausible, as a lot of force is bearing at that point) then the legs will get wobbly. You could fix that by putting a metal plate in the underside of the table, for the pin to rest against. You might also consider using a magnet to help hold the pin in place. Doesn't need to be a strong one, just something to make sure it doesn't want to drift out over time. Disclaimer: I am operating on like 2 neurons right now so take everything I say with a grain of salt.
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Oct 7, 2020 04:13
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OgreNoah posted:It's actually 29"x56", long enough for two people to a side.. The pin is set between two hinges, and it's about 1/2" diameter steel pin. I'd consider adding a cross piece between the 2 legs, it wouldn't be in the way when closed and would give a place to put a small handle to make it easier to pull out while making your legs less likely to wobble of twist relative to each other. It wouldn't be symmetrical top to bottom though when closed if you care about that. A table that large will be somewhat heavy to lower and lift back up to the wall. Make sure what ever secures it against the wall can't be reached by children who might drop it on themselves. Glue is pretty tough but I'm not sure how I would feel about it strength wise with such long unsupported joints. Maybe you could put a decorative apron into the design? I have a 2'x4' table top that is an open span outside the edge supports so cherry might hold up. 
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Oct 7, 2020 04:17
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actionjackson posted:Hi, just seeing if anything knows anything about Dickson Furniture Manufacturers? they are in Houston All the pictures look like renders not actual photographs and given their prices I have to assume it is either a scam or it is all made out of cardboard by slave children in Indonesia, and I’m not even joking. Those prices wouldn’t begin to cover their materials, much less shipping.
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Oct 7, 2020 04:33
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:All the pictures look like renders not actual photographs and given their prices I have to assume it is either a scam or it is all made out of cardboard by slave children in Indonesia, and I’m not even joking. Those prices wouldn’t begin to cover their materials, much less shipping. thanks, this is why I'm confused because their website says they have been making furniture for 40 years (?) i agree the renders are suspicious haha here is their little video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xV1VsugSvVw my only thought is that since they seem to be focused on commercial stuff, is it possible this just some sort of overstock they can't get rid of? this is the craigslist post I found https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/fuo/d/saint-paul-contemporary-3-piece-dining/7207194146.html actionjackson fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Oct 7, 2020 |
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Oct 7, 2020 04:38
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actionjackson posted:thanks, this is why I'm confused because their website says they have been making furniture for 40 years (?) Just digging through their website it's particle board with plastic veneer. Basically Ikea stuff except they design it for student dorms and have a few contracts with Texas universities.
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Oct 7, 2020 04:46
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actionjackson posted:thanks, this is why I'm confused because their website says they have been making furniture for 40 years (?) There’s a chance there was a furniture manufacturer called Dickson Furniture that made furniture in Houston for 40 years and now they use that name brand and stick their label on imported crap. Not much furniture gets made domestically anymore, but plenty of furniture made overseas gets sold under old brand names. Maybe they still make it in Houston, idk. That video shows them using structural sheathing OSB for furniture parts which is pretty lol. Nothing about it seems good.
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Oct 7, 2020 04:47
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thanks guys! I'll definitely pass then. I kind of wonder how old that set is, it definitely looks like it's from the 80s. I'm guessing I'd be able to tell from the weight. I'm looking for a 35-42" round table, it's not something I'd use that often here's one I like from Knoll, which is a pretty famous name in terms of modern stuff https://www.knoll.com/product/rockwell-unscripted-easy-table-42-round "Birch, natural oak and rustic walnut tops are 1.25" thick with veneer surface and bullnose ABS that will match leg paint color" I'm guessing this is MDF with a veneer? I wonder if there's anyway to find out how good the veneer itself is. I pretty much assume anything from Knoll or HM is going to be pretty solid. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Oct 7, 2020 |
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Oct 7, 2020 06:04
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OgreNoah posted:It's actually 29"x56", long enough for two people to a side.. The pin is set between two hinges, and it's about 1/2" diameter steel pin. I think the pin will work, for a while. The hole will oval out and the legs will get wobbly, especially if someone bumps them while they're deployed. If you could epoxy a steel bushing of matching diameter in that could work...
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Oct 7, 2020 14:07
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I haven't had coffee yet but I can't be the only one who saw the URL and read "dicks on furniture dot com"
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Oct 7, 2020 14:14
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Thanks for the suggestions everyone, that's good stuff to think about!
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Oct 7, 2020 15:23
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JEEVES420 posted:I haven't had coffee yet but I can't be the only one who saw the URL and read "dicks on furniture dot com" don't kinkshame my "putting my dick on tables" hobby plz thx
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Oct 7, 2020 16:54
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A little while back ColdPie offered up some woodworking literature and I took him up on it as I'm trying to learn as much as I can. I was honestly expecting a bunch of dogeared hard used stuff he was looking to get rid of, so imagine my surprise when this shows up. A pristine copy of The Essential Woodworker and The Anarchist's Design Book, along with a pile of Popular Woodworking and Fine Woodworking. The Anarchist's Design Book is even signed!  Thank you so much ColdPie! It is more than I deserve, and very much appreciated!
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Oct 7, 2020 22:35
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Ranidas posted:pristine copy of The Essential Woodworker and The Anarchist's Design Book, along with a pile of Popular Woodworking and Fine Woodworking. Awesome gift, this inspired me to find a dealer to order that book and a few more from Lost Art Press that ships internationally. I just finished six more windows for my house. My first ever three dimensional one, complete with needing to design and order custom steel supports, as well as my first multi frame window.           
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Oct 8, 2020 11:15
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I build a desk with a cork top, and I think it needs some kind of finish, but I don't know what to use. I want it to stay soft, you know, like cork, so I don't think something like shellac or poly will work. Should I just leave it unfinished, or do y'all know of something?
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Oct 8, 2020 19:23
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AAAAA! Real Muenster posted:The few times in the past I've bought wood from Lowes/Home Depot I've noticed that a lot of it was skewed, crooked, or off in some way so its good to know that it is that high of a percentage. Is there a better place to buy wood isntead, or is it just something you have to deal with? Find a better local lumber yard. If your local big box is like mine right now they are churning through dimensional lumber so fast that they're just leaving big loads of already wet stuff improperly stored and making things worse. You may pay slightly more per piece (mine is actually usually within 50 cents up or down) but they'll almost certainly get you straighter and drier stuff, especially in the current situation.
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Oct 8, 2020 19:49
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Generalissimo
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Ranidas posted:A little while back ColdPie offered up some woodworking literature and I took him up on it as I'm trying to learn as much as I can. I was honestly expecting a bunch of dogeared hard used stuff he was looking to get rid of, so imagine my surprise when this shows up. Holy poo poo that is such an amazing gift of knowledge. Those two books are what I always recommend to friends who ask about getting into woodworking. Good on you ColdPie!
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Oct 8, 2020 20:02
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Hey carpentry / woodworking friends, I've never posted or even looked in this thread before, but I have a story I want to bounce off you, as it involves possibly hidden traesure of the wooden kind. So I follow this guy who you can google, Shawn Bath. He's a diver who has been doing excellent work cleaning up harbors in the Canadian province of Newfoundland. Anyway, lately he's been talking about wood treated with creosote. When dealing with wood and seawater, creosote used to be very common, as wooden boats and especially with wharves, stages, slipways etc. This is illegal today, as creosote leeches all sorts of nasty stuff into the water. But of course, a few centuries of the practice has left a lot of coated lumber on the bottom of harbors. Removing said wood, obviously a good thing for the environment. But, Mr. Bath also claims that the wood is by in large still usable, and furthermore, kinda valuable, as it is old hardwood. I apologize if this is nonsense and gibberish, but I wanted to hear what people think. Yours etc, Neb
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Oct 8, 2020 21:11
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Harvesting sunk logs has been a thing for a bit, creosote or not. Its one of the few ways to get ahold of old growth tight-ringed wood. Not sure I'd want to make something from a creosote treated log, no matter how long it was underwater.
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Oct 8, 2020 21:19
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How decent is thermofoil for a cabinet that is pre-painted? since I realized that I can't really replace my cabinets without having to replace the countertop, and I'm not doing that since I just had that put in last year, I'm trying to find doors similar to the high gloss white voxtorp with the recessed handle https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/voxtorp-door-matt-white-white-80273322/ this one has that sort of flat/slab front, has the high gloss white, can come with the cup drilled where I have it now so I wouldn't have to do anything except attach it (I am NOT a woodworking person, just asking because everyone else here is!). It also comes with a recessed handle option along the top or bottom, which from what I can gather is similar to that ikea door. https://www.cabinetdoormart.com/tampa-door
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Oct 8, 2020 21:20
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Nebakenezzer posted:I apologize if this is nonsense and gibberish, but I wanted to hear what people think. Sideways related, my guitar's top is made from spruce rescued from Canadian bridge construction. https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/Martin_Using_Recycled_Sitka_Spruce_in_New_GPCPA4_Sapele I always thought it was neat.
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Oct 8, 2020 21:40
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Cross posting from board games, almost done with my Crokinole boards. You can make 4 from a full sheet of plywood... so I made 4. Tried some small differences across them, tried to get a little funky with the last one as I posted about previously. Not sure it entirely “works” but it also doesn’t not work, so there’s that. Still have to wait a while for the poly to cure and then rub out and insert the pegs.    
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Oct 9, 2020 02:33
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GEMorris posted:Harvesting sunk logs has been a thing for a bit, creosote or not. Its one of the few ways to get ahold of old growth tight-ringed wood. Creosote is a pretty toxic compound to anything including people. At the very least you would never want to work it without a full respirator and you would want to dispose of the byproducts (sawdust, shavings, etc) in a safe manner separate of your other wood byproducts. Creosote is also dangerously flammable and can cause contact damage on your skin, though hopefully not after sitting under water for long enough. That wood is probably solid as hell though.
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Oct 9, 2020 02:48
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Elysium posted:Cross posting from board games, almost done with my Crokinole boards. You can make 4 from a full sheet of plywood... so I made 4. Wow those are really cool. How did you cut the little groove/inlay things? Finish looks great-what did you do on the last Jupiter one?
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Oct 9, 2020 02:53
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Wow those are really cool. How did you cut the little groove/inlay things? 2 of them are routed in, with a 3/32 straight bit, only a mm or 2 deep. Used a simple jig and a very careful straightedge. The other 2 are just straight sharpie lines. There are ways to fill in the routed lines so they are flush, but it didn’t seem worth the effort as even with the gaps it doesn’t affect the game, the discs slide right over. The sharpie lines actually look pretty legit, though I think I prefer the routed ones just because it *looks* like “oh someone did some work to do this.” The Jupiter one is just a bunch of various gel stains and red dye stain, they didn’t have a straight red stain. The dye stain doesn’t feather at all so it kind of sticks out with a sharp edge but it’s not too bad. The rest of them I just rubbed on and mixed a bit until it looked ok. I had much more white stain on it at first but it didn’t look good so I added more brown tones. I do with the wood grain stood out more because I was hoping the swirls would add to the pattern but it’s pretty muted.
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Oct 9, 2020 03:19
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actionjackson posted:How decent is thermofoil for a cabinet that is pre-painted? We redid our kitchen with ikea last year and the cabinets have been holding up great. Went with the glossy white for the uppers. I think the thermofoil covered particle board is probably the most moisture resistant.
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Oct 9, 2020 11:25
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Elysium posted:Cross posting from board games, almost done with my Crokinole boards. You can make 4 from a full sheet of plywood... so I made 4.  How much sanding did you do on the surface? Are you going to use anything other than poly to make them extra slippery? As a Canadian this post fill me with joy. I hope I get you for secret santa I want to space board sooo bad.
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Oct 9, 2020 12:43
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Rutibex posted:
So far just sanded the wood to 320 and light sanded between each of the 10ish coats of poly. After it cures each one needs a run of sanding all the way up through 4000, then a coating of wax, and maybe some capo powder. I have amazingly few progress pics but here’s one of my router jig for the guy who asked before:  And this is my “drill press,” aka, please let this absolutely crucial forstner hole go in straight with no chatter: 
Elysium fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Oct 9, 2020 |
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Oct 9, 2020 13:34
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Is it true that if you put in new cabinets, it's usually difficult or impossible to retain the existing countertop? I was told by a few people that there's a high likelihood of it getting damaged, or that if I want to keep it it makes the job more difficult / time-consuming.
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Oct 9, 2020 16:40
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My brother-in-law and I have come into possession of a large quantity of inexpensive live-edge rough cut ash (2" milled slabs that are up to about 36 inches wide and some as long as 8 feet), and I've recently moved into a new house with a fairly substantial workshop area in it. So we're building stuff. I have been around woodworking much of my life, as has he, but I'm looking at this as a learning experience. E.g. my first project is a roughly 40*36 inch bookshelf, assembled with dadoes and I've been hand cutting it (ripping this ash is a "one cut per day" kind of task for me). Now I have two questions 1) Does anyone have experience doing surface planing with a router? I don't mind hand planing to finish or smooth, but I don't want to take 1/4 of an inch of hardwood off of a face with my hand plane, so I'm mechanizing that. What kind of bit should I get? Any tips on building a jig? 2) My partner has requested that I make her a park bench style bench to leave outdoors, at least through the summer. I'd like to do it without using the welded metal frames I see used on many. Will I need to use metal fasteners on it if I want it to last more than one year? Or are there ways of doing this with glue and joinery? Is there anything I can put on ash that will give it at least a few years survival as an outdoor furniture piece?
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Oct 9, 2020 17:38
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Toast posted:Find a better local lumber yard. If your local big box is like mine right now they are churning through dimensional lumber so fast that they're just leaving big loads of already wet stuff improperly stored and making things worse. You may pay slightly more per piece (mine is actually usually within 50 cents up or down) but they'll almost certainly get you straighter and drier stuff, especially in the current situation.
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Oct 9, 2020 18:09
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actionjackson posted:Is it true that if you put in new cabinets, it's usually difficult or impossible to retain the existing countertop? I was told by a few people that there's a high likelihood of it getting damaged, or that if I want to keep it it makes the job more difficult / time-consuming. What are your countertops made of? CommonShore posted:
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Oct 9, 2020 18:19
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CommonShore posted:My brother-in-law and I have come into possession of a large quantity of inexpensive live-edge rough cut ash (2" milled slabs that are up to about 36 inches wide and some as long as 8 feet), and I've recently moved into a new house with a fairly substantial workshop area in it. So we're building stuff. I have been around woodworking much of my life, as has he, but I'm looking at this as a learning experience. E.g. my first project is a roughly 40*36 inch bookshelf, assembled with dadoes and I've been hand cutting it (ripping this ash is a "one cut per day" kind of task for me). 1) You'll have to build a jig that will be big enough to receive the boards, and something within that to secure the board; then an adjustable moving guide above it, which your router will set into. So maybe envision a table for the router which slides freely on tubular slides, which in turn can run up and down the track. The wider the router bit, probably the better. You can get at least a 3/4" straight cutter, maybe wider. 2) There are waterproof glues, and there are dry fitted joints. I think the Japanese are the real masters of that, but I'm no expert on it. There are others in the thread who are better versed at this. As to finishes, ash is a pretty good outdoor wood, but maybe some type of spar or boat varnish would provide more peace of mind.
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Oct 9, 2020 19:14
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Something to note about surfacing with a router jig: to get good surfacing results you really want your router's vertical movement to be very tightly constrained. Since your slabs are so wide, flexing of the crosspiece that supports the router is a legitimate concern. I recommend overbuilding them -- maybe a couple of 2x4s with notches cut in them to hold the router base. I don't think that 1x material is a good choice for this job.
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Oct 9, 2020 19:22
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Something to note about surfacing with a router jig: to get good surfacing results you really want your router's vertical movement to be very tightly constrained. Since your slabs are so wide, flexing of the crosspiece that supports the router is a legitimate concern. I recommend overbuilding them -- maybe a couple of 2x4s with notches cut in them to hold the router base. I don't think that 1x material is a good choice for this job. Ok that's good advice. We have at least one project planned that will be using a full-width slab so even if we make a 1x crosspiece for any planks that we have already cut to width we should probably have a sturdier one handy for things like table tops. Mr. Mambold posted:1) You'll have to build a jig that will be big enough to receive the boards, and something within that to secure the board; then an adjustable moving guide above it, which your router will set into. So maybe envision a table for the router which slides freely on tubular slides, which in turn can run up and down the track. The wider the router bit, probably the better. You can get at least a 3/4" straight cutter, maybe wider. Beauty. Thanks. Stuff like "ash is a pretty good outdoor wood" is the type of info that I need to accumulate as I go.
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Oct 9, 2020 19:40
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AFewBricksShy posted:What are your countertops made of? wilsonart high pressure laminate https://www.wilsonart.com/laminate/design-library/coffee-bean-d495 actionjackson fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Oct 9, 2020 |
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Oct 9, 2020 19:48
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CommonShore posted:Ok that's good advice. We have at least one project planned that will be using a full-width slab so even if we make a 1x crosspiece for any planks that we have already cut to width we should probably have a sturdier one handy for things like table tops. IIRC you’re in the frozen north and not my swampy jungle, so you may get more life out of it than I would expect though.
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Oct 9, 2020 19:49
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I would disagree that ash is a pretty good outdoor wood. It’s probably better than pine or poplar, but it is definitely not rot resistant like White oak or mahogany. Some slats on a bench will maybe last a few years, but depending on the climate/conditions, I would expect anything in ground contact or that stays fairly wet to start rotting in a year or so. You can slow that down somewhat with a fuckton of spar varnish, but the rot-resistance that provides is only as good as the waterproofness of your coating. Frozen north indeed. Perhaps I'll set the feet on patio blocks and take it inside or cover it during the winter. Little things like that can make a difference in my experience. Heck when I was a teenager I made some patio furniture out of poplar and screws and they lasted like 10 years (rip) so that tells you something about the climate. I guess my concern for this project is whether mortise-and-tenon joinery will be worse or weaker or shorter-lived than approaching it with screws washers and bolts.
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Oct 9, 2020 20:10
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CommonShore posted:Ok that's good advice. We have at least one project planned that will be using a full-width slab so even if we make a 1x crosspiece for any planks that we have already cut to width we should probably have a sturdier one handy for things like table tops. Personally if I was expecting to surface very large things with a router and wanted a jig/table that wasn't going to flex I'd build it out of extruded aluminum T-slot instead of wood. Something like this, which you can find from a number of suppliers. 80/20 is the big manufacturer of it, so much that 80-20 is a de facto name for the product (like Xerox machines as a term for all copiers) but you don't have to buy it from them. They make standard sizes of this stuff and standard fittings to allow things to slide in those channels. Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Oct 9, 2020 |
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Oct 9, 2020 21:05
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Putting the bench on stone or PT wood feet ought to help with rot, yeah. By my understanding the main issue with rot is when the wood isn't allowed to dry out. The ground is moist so anything in ground contact doesn't get to dry out, but elevation allows the elevated feet to dry even if the ground is wet, and then the wood rests on the feet. Not sure if the same holds true with concrete, which I seem to recall has a wicking effect.
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Oct 9, 2020 21:23
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actionjackson posted:wilsonart high pressure laminate I’m not sure how those are installed but I think they are just screwed on. If you’re able to get them off clean you’d be able to reuse them, but you’re going to have to keep all of their sizing and such in mind as you install the new counters.
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Oct 9, 2020 22:01
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