|
The big turn off for me is that you have to drop them over a paint that is lighter than them and as a new painter, priming black gave me some confidence to hide some things I didn’t have the few times I have primed Wraithbone now. But for the videos I mentioned earlier, they primed Administratum Grey so maybe I need to try that.
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 03:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 16:30 |
|
|
I find they work fine over the wraithbone base paint. If you are using them as part of your toolkit rather than the backbone of a particular scheme, you could prime however you usually do and then just paint over the areas you intend to use a contrast paint on with the appropriate base. I intend to try a Templar Brotherhood Imlerial Fist marine (basically BT scheme but with yellow shoulderpads and IF markings) doing the yellow this way after I finish my squad of necron warriors.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 03:09
|
|
|
Xpost from the Malifaux thread. Brock Samsonite posted:
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 04:47
|
|
comments.
|
I was already completely sold on Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver, but many after tonight I am convinced it's straight magic. I was having crazy issues getting my airbrush to work how I knew it should be, constant dry tip, flow issues, and it just wouldn't thin correctly. Turns out I had my dropper bottles swapped, I have all my standard stuff put into smaller easier to use bottles and if I don't bother to read the label I put on it looks pretty close to water. Swapped bottles and every issue went away.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 10:33
|
|
|
Isolation thing has almost killed my painting vibes but managed to finish the last two of the Grymwatch ghoulies.  Hopefully I can now move on to bigger minis. These were absolute nightmare to photgraph. Maybe I need lightbooth or something.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 11:08
|
|
|
^burtle posted:The big turn off for me is that you have to drop them over a paint that is lighter than them and as a new painter, priming black gave me some confidence to hide some things I didn’t have the few times I have primed Wraithbone now. You can get some really cool effects by spray priming black, then brushing white primer where you want bright colors. It goes a long way towards making yellow easier, and it makes Contrasts more viable.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 11:31
|
|
|
moths posted:You can get some really cool effects by spray priming black, then brushing white primer where you want bright colors. It goes a long way towards making yellow easier, and it makes Contrasts more viable. Yellow contrast is honestly like magic.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 11:42
|
|
|
Toebone posted:How do people like GW Contrast paint, now that it's been out a while? My local store just got a whole bunch in. They are a very useful and versatile tool to have in your toolbox, but much they are not a one size fits all solution by any means. You can use them over a white/off white base, in which case they are basically a basecoat and wash in one go. As mentioned theres nothing stopping you undercoating black and then painting part of the model white so you can slop on a contrast paint. If you want rank and file troops to "decent" level in a hurry they are a big timesaver. But you dont have to stop there, you can go in and highlight, you can get interesting effects over a zenithal highlight, you can use some of them as a filter over a base colour, you can put them over metallics for a candy shell effect, they take a while to dry so you can try a bit of entry level wet blending. I like them a lot tbh, and have wound up buying a bunch over the last year or so. Downsides; It is worth mentioning that they do require decent brush control, as I find mistakes harder to fix with contrasts than if I'm doing basecoat, wash and highlights all manually. They struggle over large flat areas (so dont plan on doing any tanks with them for example. Although I have heard mixed reports about airbrushing contrast, I dont have an airbrush myself) . They do take longer to dry than regular paints, and you need to make sure they arent pooling in areas that you dont want them to. And the line does vary considerably in opacity and coverage. Also they smell a little weird. I'd recommend the contrast black, its become my go-to for black hair, cloth and if I want a metallic black I do it over gunmetal on weapons and stuff. Tallasar Blue and Blood Angels red are very strongly pigmented. I like them a lot, and find they work well over a zenithal highlight (and again, over metallics. Blood Angels red gives a lovely fire-engine metallic effect). I'd put Ork Flesh in this bracket too, its a decently strong green. Ilyandan yellow does its job just fine, a decent yellow with orange-ish shading in the recesses. Highlight it up with a sunshine yellow if you want more brightness. Really needs to go on over a light undercoat, but then it is yellow. Snakebite Leather is a good colour for leather, if you are doing a bunch of guys in leather dusters or something, or have lots of belts, its pretty good for that. Aggaros Dunes makes a fantastic blonde hair colour. Gives almost exactly the same effect I used to get by hand (a tan base, sepia wash, carefully highlight with the original tan then very selectively with bone) but in one coat. Also a decent tan colour for clothing and whatnot. Skeleton horde is basically just "bleached bone then sepia wash" in one. Not essential but decent enough and if you are doing a... well, horde of skeletons, its probably worth it. The fleshtones I've tried are also pretty much fine (but dont work well with a zenithal, at least if you are using white over black). Also Wyldwood is a good strong pigment, but is basically a dark brown with a black wash in one go. Apocathary White is kinda okay. I reckon you do get a noticably better effect just using a regular light grey paint and highlighting it up a bit with an even lighter grey then white, but its fine. If you were doing an army of guys in white shirts I see the value of saving the time. Works over a zenithal for grey hair, not so much for white clothes. Plaguebearer flesh is niche as hell tbh. Its not as strongly pigmented as I would like and I've mainly ended up using it as a filter to make things look less healthy. Magos Purple is the absolute pits, save yourself a couple of quid and just use a wash of druchi violet instead. You get better coverage and a stronger purple with the wash over white than you do with the contrast paint. SiKboy fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Oct 9, 2020 |
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 13:53
|
|
|
I think i'm getting the hang of putting on decals. Also on making models look cold as hell. Base needs a little work but I wanted to try mixing snow and ice together. I did ice then snow on the chaos warrior, this time I did snow then some ice in the corner. I like the ice then snow a lot more so that's what i'm going to do for special models (like bladeguard)   
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 14:49
|
|
|
Just wondering, what Vallejo metal color is roughly equivalent to GW's leadbelcher?
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 19:02
|
|
|
moths posted:You can get some really cool effects by spray priming black, then brushing white primer where you want bright colors. It goes a long way towards making yellow easier, and it makes Contrasts more viable. Zenithal priming is also amazing with contrast paints.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 19:07
|
|
|
Spanish Manlove posted:Just wondering, what Vallejo metal color is roughly equivalent to GW's leadbelcher? The closest should be Vallejo Model Air Gunmetal actually
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 19:25
|
|
|
If you can get it, P3 Pigiron is my favorite for regular metal. I find it flows better then the GW stuff. I do have Vallejo Air Blackmetal which is a 'cool' black metal and it's pretty nice.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 19:55
|
|
|
Team_q posted:If you can get it, P3 Pigiron is my favorite for regular metal. I find it flows better then the GW stuff. I do have Vallejo Air Blackmetal which is a 'cool' black metal and it's pretty nice. I do love the p3 stuff I have so I may give that a shot too. I love their frostbite white and blighted gold. I was just considering switching over once I finish up with my last pot of leadbelcher.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 20:04
|
|
|
Can anyone recommend an acrylic nail polish rack they use for organizing their paints? I have lots of little bottles that I'd like to organize on my desk!
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 20:25
|
|
|
Honesly anything from amazon that has the right sized shelves for the brand of paint you use. tamiyas are 36mm in diameter so anything smaller than that will hold basically anything. Speaking of nail polish, this is a really left field question but has anyone ever used their modelling paints to actually paint nails? I sort of half jokingly told a girl I've been getting to know that I'd paint her nails with my airbrush and it ocurred to me that there really wouldn't be anything stopping it from working properly. I only have water based and tamiyas alcohol based acrylics and can't see how it wouldn't work.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 20:43
|
|
|
Verisimilidude posted:Can anyone recommend an acrylic nail polish rack they use for organizing their paints? I have lots of little bottles that I'd like to organize on my desk! Bloody Hedgehog posted:These are the ones I bought a few months back, and I just did a test and they hold GW bottles, and Tamiya mini bottles. Not sure about the full-size Tamiya bottles.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 20:43
|
|
|
Aromatherapy storage is also a valuable search term when looking for cases/racks.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 20:44
|
|
|
Sultan Tarquin posted:Honesly anything from amazon that has the right sized shelves for the brand of paint you use. tamiyas are 36mm in diameter so anything smaller than that will hold basically anything. Speaking of nail polish, this is a really left field question but has anyone ever used their modelling paints to actually paint nails? I sort of half jokingly told a girl I've been getting to know that I'd paint her nails with my airbrush and it ocurred to me that there really wouldn't be anything stopping it from working properly. I only have water based and tamiyas alcohol based acrylics and can't see how it wouldn't work. You'd probably need to varnish them if you wanted them to last more than 8 hours. I assume actual nail paints have additives that make them more durable than model paint.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 22:06
|
|
|
Sultan Tarquin posted:Honesly anything from amazon that has the right sized shelves for the brand of paint you use. tamiyas are 36mm in diameter so anything smaller than that will hold basically anything. Speaking of nail polish, this is a really left field question but has anyone ever used their modelling paints to actually paint nails? I sort of half jokingly told a girl I've been getting to know that I'd paint her nails with my airbrush and it ocurred to me that there really wouldn't be anything stopping it from working properly. I only have water based and tamiyas alcohol based acrylics and can't see how it wouldn't work. Nail polish is an enamel which is why you need a solvent to remove it. You can absolutely run enamel through the brush, you'll just need great ventilation, solvent to clean it out and up, and masks or some kind of barrier cause that is stuff you don't want to breath in.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 22:30
|
|
|
Brush on varnish would work totally fine though right? I don't have any real equipment to spray enamels or laquers and it's mostly just a thought experiment.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 23:14
|
|
|
Yeah but like Moon Monster says don't expect it to last long. It'll scratch just like a painted mini will.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 23:24
|
|
|
isn't brush on topcoat enamel though? shows how much I know about nailcare.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2020 23:31
|
|
|
Brush on topcoat should seal the acrylic paint but it would be the only protection to my understanding of it. It's worth at least a thought experiment attempt.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2020 00:19
|
|
|
Geisladisk posted:Zenithal priming is also amazing with contrast paints.  and it really makes Contrasts work much much better than over a straight flat undercoat.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2020 00:30
|
|
|
I've been doing a 4 part zenthal and I think if you are running with contrast and glazes, it looks rad as hell. All black white from the top to simulate light dry brush white(ish) to highlight rased points Nulin Oil- stuff that needs contrast. Then you can hit it with inks or contrast and it works pretty well. If you do traditional painting, I like to do black, then gray zenthal, so I get the best of both worlds.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2020 02:29
|
|
|
This fw keeper of secrets is way too horny for my liking with the 3 pairs breasts. Anyone see any examples of greenstuff shirts or bras or corsets or whatever so when I eventually put this in the display case I don't accidentally give my kid a weird fetish when he hits puberty?
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2020 02:49
|
|
|
Harvey Mantaco posted:This fw keeper of secrets is way too horny for my liking with the 3 pairs breasts. Anyone see any examples of greenstuff shirts or bras or corsets or whatever so when I eventually put this in the display case I don't accidentally give my kid a weird fetish when he hits puberty? A fetish for... boobs? The scandal of it all.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2020 02:55
|
|
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:A fetish for... boobs? Six boobs! Like a spider has!
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2020 02:57
|
|
|
What's the best way to use dry paints? I got some ryza rust and the gw tutorial video just had him painting straight from the pot, but it looks way to thick to do that, almost like a solid.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2020 05:06
|
|
|
Going back to Contrast chat, sainted Duncan Rhodes put up a video on his site this week of how he painted this Banshee. He used an all over coat of the bone Contrast as his starting point before using one colour to layer the flat of the plates and another to highlight them. For the effort that is a fantastic finish. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Oct 10, 2020 |
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2020 06:29
|
|
|
 I tried to do a Non-Metallic Metal doing wet blending for the first time and I guess I picked my palette wrong because it looks like wood and not any kind of metal at all. But I really like the way the effect came out... Now I'm thinking I'm gonna roll with it and have all my Necrons slightly insane and think they're actually Organic and what's more Lifeform than wearing Organic Material on your totally Organic body?
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2020 07:31
|
|
|
If you're looking to emulate metal you need to go all the way to pure white(or very close) in at least some of the highlights and far darker in your shadows, it's all about contrast and highlight placement. But if you're happy with what you have then that's great! It's a solid look.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2020 07:45
|
|
|
Eej posted:
Looks more like stone, than wood, to me, but does have an odd appeal to it. I like it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2020 12:13
|
|
|
Giant Ethicist posted:For the airbrush-less, you can pretty easily approximate the effect with washes and soft drybrushes. But yeah, my basecoat for all my Contrast painting looks something like this: I'd be extremely interested in seeing how that turns out as you start to do contrasts on it. For whatever reason I've never been able to make contrasts work on anything larger, but I'm not ready to give up yet.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2020 14:36
|
|
|
Der Shovel posted:I'd be extremely interested in seeing how that turns out as you start to do contrasts on it. For whatever reason I've never been able to make contrasts work on anything larger, but I'm not ready to give up yet. Given how expensive contrasts are I've really been trying to use them for specific small stuff like white cloth
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2020 14:45
|
|
|
I painted an elf, and I'm really proud of it! Looking at the pictures, I should go back and work on the highlight blends on the cloak tho....      Similarities between him and Link are unintentional...
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2020 16:41
|
|
|
You've really hit a level in your painting technique and attention to detail you should be proud of.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2020 16:49
|
|
|
Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Going back to Contrast chat, sainted Duncan Rhodes put up a video on his site this week of how he painted this Banshee. Which bone contrast did he use? My skeleton horde comes out a lot more yellow.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2020 16:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 16:30 |
|
|
goodness posted:Which bone contrast did he use? My skeleton horde comes out a lot more yellow. Looks like a Skeleton Horde base, a Screaming Skull layer, and White Scar highlights.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2020 17:01
|
|
