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Motronic posted:Exterior walls in places that actually require insulation based on the regional climate are at least 2x6. A lot of older houses will still have 2x4 walls even in the north, 2x6 didn't become code until the mid 80s most places, to my knowledge, and they're still the minimum code now. My house was built in 1980 and unfortunately, they didn't opt for 2x6's. I figure if we decide to stay here long term at some point I'm going to have to have the house re-sheathed anyways, since we have T1-11 as both our siding and our sheathing, and we'll add some rigid insulation over the studs when we do. So far our T1-11 seems to be holding up fine at least.
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Oct 9, 2020 02:50
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We use an analog push mower for the yard (6 meters x 12 meters?) and electric Makita hand-held clippers and a shoulder-strap trimmer for the details.
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Oct 9, 2020 03:34
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Ryobi cordless jigsaw was a mistake. Definitely get the corded one if you do more than chop out a bit of wall.
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Oct 9, 2020 04:02
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While I have one I’ve never had issue with, I’ve also only ever used it as a massaging/muscle recovery tool.
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Oct 9, 2020 04:10
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The Dave posted:While I have one I’ve never had issue with, I’ve also only ever used it as a massaging/muscle recovery tool. We just burned through batteries so fast. I think they were technically overheating but our life would have been much easier with a corded unit.
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Oct 9, 2020 04:14
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Fallom posted:I fukken love my sack of Ryobi tools. same but makita. their 18v/36v cordless stuff has been bad rear end in my experience
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Oct 9, 2020 04:41
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We have a bunch of Makita cordless, I like them a lot.
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Oct 9, 2020 05:52
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H110Hawk posted:Ryobi cordless jigsaw was a mistake. Definitely get the corded one if you do more than chop out a bit of wall. Jig... Jigsaw? Wall? Do you mean Sawzall/reciprocating saw? You could use a Jigsaw to cut drywall I guess but I can't imagine doing much more than a small hole with one, I've never used a Jigsaw enough to run out the battery. I have Ryobi's brushless Jigsaw and Recip saw, the Jigsaw is fine for what it is, I only do small operations with it. The Recip is the only brushless tool of theirs I've really been disappointed in, cuts like crap, vibrates like crazy.
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Oct 9, 2020 07:28
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Yeah the brushless ryobi tools feel like a step up in quality from the main line, except for that reciprocating saw. It works, but it's not fun to use. Still, I put a carbide blade in it and cut through my 4" cast iron drain stack, so its got guts.
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Oct 9, 2020 11:21
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I've used the cordless Ryobi trim router a lot recently, it's loving terrible ergonomically but with decent bits has chewed through everything I threw it at. Definitely don't regret buying it. I also used the 1/2"impact wrench to drive 6" screws because I never got round to buying the 1/4" hex impact.
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Oct 9, 2020 11:48
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Elem7 posted:Jig... Jigsaw? Wall? Do you mean Sawzall/reciprocating saw? I haven't used my jigsaw a lot but I have one and have used it on occasion and I dont think I've see much of an issue. My Recip saw would probably kill the 1.5a pretty fast. When I was taking out bushes and using it for various hacking of wood bits. I was using 4AH batteries and I I eneded up using about 1/2 a battery. Depending on what you're demoing you can probably rip through a 1.5ah small battery in short order.
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Oct 9, 2020 13:09
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MOTHERFUCKING LEAF BLOWERS
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Oct 9, 2020 16:38
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Elem7 posted:A lot of older houses will still have 2x4 walls even in the north, 2x6 didn't become code until the mid 80s most places, to my knowledge, and they're still the minimum code now. Yeah, not talking about code. T111 on 2x4s is basically a crappy shed. Long before 2x6 was code people routinely opted for them in structures being built above poverty spec. Or you know, structures with a second floor.
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Oct 9, 2020 16:56
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I installed solid core doors in my basement remodel and holy crap they are so much nicer than hollow core.
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Oct 10, 2020 03:03
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I just ordered one of those leaf blower/vaccum mulcher combo things and I am very excited to not have to rake leaves off of my front steps and sidewalk that are inaccessible for my push mower.
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Oct 10, 2020 05:13
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BonerGhost posted:We have a bunch of Makita cordless, I like them a lot. Same Just recently bought a kobalt 80v push mower on end of season clearance for 250, and that thing has been just wonderful! Mulches, quiet, cuts great, light, one touch height adjustment, easy on and off, 5 amp hour battery cuts my tiny yard 3x on a single charge... loving it! On the Makita front, just bought a 36v 16” chainsaw and it’s been fantastic for taking out a long dead ash tree stump. The rest of their tools have been absolutely impeccable for the past six years and I’ve abused them pretty good. Still running the original 3 amp hour batteries too! I’ve done dirty horrible things with the drill, run it through mud, ran 4” hole saws through so many different things, hammered concrete, driven multi foot long spade bits, and even used it to drive a 1” wide footlong auger through a tree stump. Had to brace it with my legs to keep from wrenching out of my grasp. Seriously great kit! So happy to have gotten rid of gas and pneumatic tools. Well, mostly... still have a whole range of pneumatic nailers, but that’s about it.
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Oct 10, 2020 05:22
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Couldn't get any masons to call me back to do some minor chimney repair work so I spent ~$100 on climbing gear, learned a lot about knots, and in true weekend warrior fashion, climbed up it myself (with a spotter). Pretty sure I'm ready for Everest now. jk but my roof is steep and there's no way I could have gotten up it without a rope to support me. It now blows me mind that a week after I moved in a roofer came to fix a leak and climbed up the roof without a harness in the pouring rain like it was absolutely NBD. I get that they do this all day every day but dang.
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Oct 10, 2020 17:57
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Spent the weekend replacing bad caulk, rotten trim boards and repainting the dining room bump out as well as a window over the garage. The bump out was especially bad since it gets hit with all of the wind, rain, and afternoon sun. That’s one thing I miss about our previous house, since it was a single story brick ranch I had to do pretty much zero exterior maintenance the entire time we lived there.     
devmd01 fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Oct 12, 2020 |
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Oct 12, 2020 01:48
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Thing pissing me off with my (parents') house (that I also live in): the water over pressure valve is starting to gently caress up again, but my dad won't do anything about it as he's never on this end of the house (and I'm in the basement to make it worse, just some 2x4s and sheetrock between me and the relevant area of plumbing) when it's being obnoxious. So things like he's out in the driveway pressure-washing his truck, and the valve sounds like a goddamn shop-vac running the entire loving time.
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Oct 12, 2020 08:33
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Can I ask a networking question here? The house I just moved to has cat5e jacks in a few spots throughout the house, they all go to the garage where they don't terminate into anything, just a bunch of ethernet cables basically. Here is a diagram of the current set-up:  I want to get a NAS device to act as a media storage/server for the house and I want to put it in my basement. Can I use an ethernet coupler to connect the living room and basement cables together in the garage then plug my NAS into the basement jack to connect it to my modem/router? Or is there something Im missing? Here is what I'd like to do: 
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Oct 13, 2020 18:47
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Can I ask a networking question here? Yes, look at my old posts and you will find the ones I use.
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Oct 13, 2020 18:58
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I want to get a NAS device to act as a media storage/server for the house and I want to put it in my basement. Can I use an ethernet coupler to connect the living room and basement cables together in the garage then plug my NAS into the basement jack to connect it to my modem/router? Or is there something Im missing? Here is what I'd like to do: Sure, a coupler will work. They do tend to be a bit flakey/cheap, so you may get lower speeds or connection issues, but you will probably be fine.
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Oct 13, 2020 18:58
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Can I ask a networking question here? Depends on length. Total run can't be more than 100 meters without an active element. If you're under 100 meters in total, I'd just terminate both garage ends into keystone jacks and put a little patch cable between them. If the total run is over 100 meters, then yes, you can just join the two with a cheap 2 or more port $15 unmanaged switch.
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Oct 13, 2020 19:03
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Can I ask a networking question here? https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=ethernet+punch+down+panel
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Oct 13, 2020 19:16
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Thanks all, looks like I have a few options, I'll probably just use a coupler because it'll be the quickest and easiest. edit: On second thought, I'll probably go with a cheap unmanaged switch, then the ethernet jacks in the bedrooms will have an internet connection at them if I understand this correctly. Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Oct 13, 2020 |
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Oct 13, 2020 20:01
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I need the locksmith goon to come back and remind me what kind of exterior lock set I need to buy, because I feel like there was a brand recommendation but now I can't find it. (I did see what types NOT to buy.) Baldwins seem to be coming up in a lot of my searches. Currently considering a "full plate" lock set:  I am not sure if it is too contemporary for my house/door. My door right now only has a knob, no dead bolt, but there is a mortise lock stike plate in the jamb. Initially I thought this meant my door was not original, but I took a closer look at it just now and it feels like the mortise itself has been filled with a patch or epoxy or something ages ago. I plan to get the door off its hinges this weekend and prep it for new paint so I guess I will find out if they did a good or bad job patching this. anyway plz post your front doors so I can get some inspiration
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Oct 13, 2020 20:12
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Related (networking) experience: My work bought & renovated the building next door as an investment before COVID hit, then changed gears and decided to use it as office space to spread people out. They had a single Cat5 drop run to each room terminating in a wall jack, and each drop terminated in the basement in a plug like Meow has (why they didn't spring for a small patch panel is a mystery). I bought a switch and plugged all the drops in, plus the fiber link we ran to the main office. For the offices I setup that had 2 or more network devices I got a small 5 port switch, everything worked fine. For the single device offices the computer gets connected directly to the wall jack, and doesn't recognize it's attached to the network. Putting switches between the wall jack and the computers fixes the issue. The drops all test ok, everything is wired to the B standard, no crossovers. We ordered a couple more tiny switches to 'fix' it by having 1 in each office, but I'm still not sure why it's doing that.
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Oct 13, 2020 20:18
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If the cable is indeed correct the switch in the basement has the wrong MDI/MDIX setting on all the ports. And it should be set to auto anyway unless you are having specific issues with that.
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Oct 13, 2020 20:25
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It's a cheap $20 TP Link unmanaged switch, supposed to be auto neg. so I wonder if it's faulty.
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Oct 13, 2020 20:30
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Nevets posted:It's a cheap $20 TP Link unmanaged switch, supposed to be auto neg. so I wonder if it's faulty. This is where my money is. I would try swapping it for one of (same?) cheap workgroup switches and seeing if it suddenly works for the desktops to go straight to the wall. from these: TPLink -> wall -> wall -> computer TPLink -> wall -> wall -> office hack switch -> computer to this: TPLink -> office hack switch -> wall -> wall -> computer You only have to test 1 or 2 drops this way.
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Oct 13, 2020 20:35
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Hey gang. It's been a while since I've given an update on the Vermont house build. I'll summarize here but if you have the need for more serialized nonsense, you can go to the blog I've been trying to keep up with at https://www.vtwoods.life. Last time I posted, in August, they were about to put in the concrete footings and lay the slab. Fast forward and heavy rains delayed the slab for 2 weeks. They did start some framing on the garage in the meantime and then, last week, got the slab poured for the main house. Tomorrow they start framing the main house and their goal is to blast through it as fast as they can so they can get it ready for installing the windows. The window shop drawings have been approved and they should be manufacturing them currently. Just so you are aware, ordering huge triple-glazed windows from Germany isn't cheap but the ones we picked are going to be super mega awesome and incredibly energy efficient. Another build team is going to prep the garage floor slab as well as the sunken slab area for the bathroom. The excavation crew is going to start digging out the area for the porch concrete supports but the concrete patio areas are probably going to be done very, very late in the process, probably next year sometime. Our builder is still pretty confident that we'll have the house framed, windows installed and roof dried in by late November or so. Fingers crossed on that. Our cable internet odyssey continues. My wife and I wrote a letter to our neighbors and we put them in mailboxes the last time we were up. Our goal was to get some idea of who wanted cable internet and build some sort of consortium of people who were interested and I would serve as the lead bludgeon to make things happen. It turns out that there was already some different initiatives under way from different folks along the road, all lobbying for internet. One group has petered out due to frustration and guy leading that group gave me all of his materials to continue the fight. The road that connects to ours is populated by very affluent folks with huge houses. Several people from that road called me to let me know they already had a pretty big group of folks who were on the last legs of lobbying for their access. Their appointed leader called me and let me know how they were doing and let me know that the electric pole on our land, about 300-500 yards from our building site, already has a large loop of FIBER on it ready to trench. So maybe this won't be as bad as I thought it would be. He also gave me the personal email and cell phone of the guy who owns the local cable internet provider. Progress? Maybe. Definitely is great meeting the locals and contacts regardless. Also I wanted to mention that we did some research into running cable to our house via a public line extension which is a government program in VT. They stated that the average cost per mile is $30k. For each additional subscriber you can get to sign up for a 2 year deal decreases that amount by a certain amount. 15 users reduces that line extension cost to $0. So that's some interesting data, I guess. (Not to sound like a Debbie Downer but all of the government contacts I made and had conversations with basically left things on my doorstep, with no help, no push from them, no reaching out to the cable company, really not much help at all. I was told by locals that this would happen but, when I was actively exchanging emails with these people, it really felt like their help would be immediately forthcoming. Oh well. I should have lowered my expectations lower than they already were, I guess) So my wife and I plan on heading up every month for at least a weekend. We have 2020 booked and planned out and it will be good to see progress on each trip. We'll be staying out our architect's house, which should be interesting. To answer a previous question -- my wife and I both are essentially directors for software companies. Mine is focused on software for physicians and my wife works for an internet dating website. Sorry for the length of time between posts!
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Oct 13, 2020 20:50
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he1ixx posted:Our builder is still pretty confident that we'll have the house framed, windows installed and roof dried in by late November or so. Fingers crossed on that. For your sake I certainly hope this is the case. Given the current building supply realities it seems hopelessly optimistic unless all of your materials are already on-site.
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Oct 13, 2020 21:17
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Thanks all, looks like I have a few options, I'll probably just use a coupler because it'll be the quickest and easiest. Was going to suggest just making sure they're all terminated properly, and connect to a 1ge switch. not the cheapest, but i've never had Netgear unmanaged gig switches do me wrong. They probably still come in nice steel cases too. These ones are $30-$40 or so depending on how many ports: https://www.netgear.com/images/datasheet/switches/GS105v5_GS108v4_DS.pdf Also, if you wall mount it in the garage, point the ports DOWN so they don't get filled with sawdust or whatever is happening in your garage.
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Oct 13, 2020 21:19
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Motronic posted:For your sake I certainly hope this is the case. Given the current building supply realities it seems hopelessly optimistic unless all of your materials are already on-site. All of the materials are ordered and being delivered on site tomorrow. Most are from local timber mills and our builder put the order in a while ago so we're good on that front.
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Oct 13, 2020 21:39
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he1ixx posted:our builder put the order in a while ago There you go. Sounds like you've got a good one.
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Oct 13, 2020 21:58
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Can I ask a networking question here? Already answered, but any cheap patch panel and a 10$ punchdown tool is the correct answer. From there you use a patch cable to ideally plug them into a switch or even directly into your router. The reason you want to do this is to prevent movement and wear and tear on the cables inside the walls, because they’re typically solid core and not meant for excessive movement like flexible stranded patch cables. If you’re doing a nas, you could get a rack or just screw everything into a piece of plywood mounted to the wall. Sirotan posted:I need the locksmith goon to come back and remind me what kind of exterior lock set I need to buy, because I feel like there was a brand recommendation but now I can't find it. (I did see what types NOT to buy.) Baldwins seem to be coming up in a lot of my searches. Do you have windows? If yes, just buy whatever lock you want. Locks are for honest people, and it’s super easy to pick most of them, or failing that, chuck a brick through your window. An old apartment I was in was just crowbarred open while I was moving, B&E usually doesn’t have a lot to do with the lock. You can beef up door jambs, put on strike plates, etc, but unless you live in a high crime neighborhood I wouldn’t sweat it. Property crime is generally on a downward trend, plus most of our stuff just isn’t worth a whole lot anymore, it’s not like you can get 500$ for a stolen TV. Usually property crimes are ones of opportunity, eg you left the garage door open, or someone was going house to house seeing if you left your car door unlocked. I really like Kwikset Smartkey locks because you can rekey it yourself to a new key with just the original key and the shim it comes with. Wanna have a friend look after your pets while you’re on vacation? Rekey it to a new key so you don’t have a bunch of your normal keys out there.
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Oct 13, 2020 23:01
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I've been living here without a deadbolt on my front door for the last year, so I guess I was asking more from a functional perspective then a security one. Schlage and Kwikset seem to have the most market share but my limited interaction with both brands tells me their products are kind of cheap, think the Smartkey locks are neat but were a PITA to install a bunch at my mom's place and I've read they tend to have a high failure rate. In the end I'll probably just get whatever I think looks the nicest. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Edit: might end up with a key pad lock on the side door for letting people in w/o a key assuming some point in the future I'm no longer at home 24/7/365 Sirotan fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Oct 13, 2020 |
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Oct 13, 2020 23:09
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Kwikset is big boxstore garbage. Schlage also has similar garbage that they sell in big box stores but also has a much higher quality line that your local locksmiths can get for you. I'm not sure what you mean by smartkey.....are you talking about The Kwikset SmartKey(TM) System? (it's junk) or some sort of electronic lock? Neither of those are any harder to install than any other deadbolt, because they're all made to fit in the same way into a door.
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Oct 13, 2020 23:13
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Motronic posted:Kwikset is big boxstore garbage. Schlage also has similar garbage that they sell in big box stores but also has a much higher quality line that your local locksmiths can get for you. I am referring to the Kwikset Smartkey product which OSU_Matthew linked in his post. I installed several of them and getting them all keyed the same was a pain, not anything to do with the actual physical install.
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Oct 13, 2020 23:17
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^^fyi keys wear out over time, you want an original unused copy of a key to do rekeying with, otherwise you run into problems like thatMotronic posted:Kwikset is big boxstore garbage. Schlage also has similar garbage that they sell in big box stores but also has a much higher quality line that your local locksmiths can get for you. I mean, I’m sure it is relative to high end bolts. From googling it appears the first generation smartkey bolts were more unreliable and had issues that were addressed in second generation. I put mine in several years ago and they’ve been great ever since. I like it because it’s affordable, relatively decent, easy to install, easy to re-key. I don’t really see any justification in a high end lock when they’re all pretty much the same relative ease to bypass, whether it’s picking or a crowbar or a brick through the window. Better to spend money on a security system to notify you when it’s set to armed, or structural upgrades to deter brute force attacks. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Oct 14, 2020 |
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Oct 14, 2020 00:04
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