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Yeah, you've almost certainly got a nail in that tire.
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Oct 14, 2020 17:38
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Is there a dedicated FCA/MOPAR/Dodge thread? I checked a few pages back and didn't spot one. Or is that like posting a Harley thread in CA?
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Oct 14, 2020 17:40
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Strife posted:Is there a dedicated FCA/MOPAR/Dodge thread? I checked a few pages back and didn't spot one.
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Oct 14, 2020 17:48
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Friend of mine's car. 2018 Kia Niro hybrid. She had to slam on the brakes to avoid an animal in the road. A fairly heavy box she had in the back seat decided to say hi to the dash. Her HVAC controls are smashed and completely non-op, including the button that lets you switch to using the infotainment to control the climate control (most of the buttons are shoved WAY in; there's obvious physical damage, but it's limited to just the climate control section). Anybody know if the physical climate control is coded to the car, or can a used one be plopped in? They seem to run anywhere from $85-$200 on eBay. I can't find anything about the actual replacement procedure, and there's no repair info at all on Chiltons. Krakkles posted:Check the oil? It's also possible the engine was running at such a low RPM that it didn't have enough oil pressure to keep the light off. I've had that happen on plenty of cars when they're running rough/struggling to idle (say, running at ~150-200 RPM, just on the edge of dying entirely), or just before they stall.
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Oct 14, 2020 18:49
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Maybe try asking in the EV thread too? I think there's at least one Niro EV owner there. Obviously a bit of an esoteric question for the average owner.
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Oct 14, 2020 19:03
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Ok my '98 S10 W motor code (again): Here's where I'm at currently: The truck idles rough at 500-600 RPM once it's warmed up enough to drop to normal idle RPM. No codes. I've changed the fuel filter as part of overdue maintenance (black fuel came out of the old one), but other than that and and air filter I have not fired the parts cannon. I took of the distributor cap and rotor and found that there was plenty of white oxidation, which I cleaned off and put it back. The bad idling smooths out when gas is given, and when in park the car revs up and down smoothly until I hit idle where it starts to run rough again. While driving, there is a flat spot at between 2000 - 2500 rpm where the engine hesitates and makes a "pfft pfft pfft" sound as well. It takes quite a lot of pressing the gas pedal before the engine gets past it, the gearbox kicks down and the car pulls. It does overshoot quite much sometimes though and almost redlines it. I've also noticed that throttle closer to WOT or sustained higher RPMS and more prevalent if going uphill, I'll get flashing CEL that go away after letting off the gas for a short while to normal levels. No codes are stored that the Torque lite app can detect. If I'm more careful with the throttle, like keeping it at 2000rpm-ish, the truck will accelerate fine (for the rpm). A known problem is that I'm missing the adaptor air hose that goes between the air filter box and the MAF. I've sealed it as well as possible for now though. The only other part changed is a second hand TPS that I cleaned and Ohm tested (seemed to have no big flat spots). I'm not 100% confident in my testing though. I need to get some alligator clips for my multimeter because I don't have 4 hands. The distributor had no side to side slop. So I'm thinking that I should test fuel and spark at least, as well as possibly checking for vacuum leaks. If nothing else I want to find out how horribly wrong the spark plugs are. I don't have a lot of confidence in the PO...
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Oct 14, 2020 19:58
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A leak between the air filter and the MAF shouldn't cause any running problems, since that's going to be unfiltered air that is still getting metered.
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Oct 14, 2020 22:04
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I'd be looking at fuel pressure, it sounds like the fuel pump may be dying.Charles posted:Maybe try asking in the EV thread too? I think there's at least one Niro EV owner there. Obviously a bit of an esoteric question for the average owner. Good idea, I always forget about that thread. It's not the full EV version, but that makes sense. Was kinda hoping a Kia/Hyundai tech might be lurking tho 
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Oct 14, 2020 22:20
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Yeah I'm fearing that the pump is going. Going to have to do a pressure test and voltage drop test first.
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Oct 15, 2020 01:21
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Stupid question, since I'm apparently not hitting the right search keywords to find it via Google: 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport - does anyone know if both sliding doors were power door/lock? Mine either is manual driver's side for both, or something is busted. Passenger side works fine. 
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Oct 15, 2020 01:45
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1989-ish Lada Niva. 1600, 4cyl, stock carburettor which is essentially a weber 2bbl progressive with vac advance. Points ignition with mechanical advance only. I just finished putting it back together after replacing the tensioner shoe and anti rattle block for the timing chain. Only wanted to run on 3 cylinders initially. I think it was a bad spark plug. Got it running on all 4 again and took it for a test drive. When giving it too much accelerator and / or at about 70km/h it starts bucking wildly. like a mechanical bull. What could be causing it? Things I'm fairly sure of: * Timing chain is correct. I didn't take it off. I also confirmed the marks on the sprockets before putting everything back together. * Timing chain tension is correct. * Ignition timing and dwell are correct. e: * Fuel pump has a priming lever. After some hand pumping the flow stopped, so probably not the needle. I checked that and the jets when things were apart. I just remembered a particularly bumpy bit of road seemed to set off the bucking too. Coil and spark plug leads are all firmly in place. e again: Checked plugs. #4 a bit sus. #3 replaced. Perhaps 1-3 too white for a few kms. Just rechecked timing chain tension. Seems fine. Beyond that, I'm stumped. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 07:44 on Oct 15, 2020 |
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Oct 15, 2020 05:36
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Can (Ford F-150 incl remote start) key fobs be reprogrammed? I now have two of them for a truck that is in a scrap yard and I assume if they can be they'd have a fair amount of value.
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Oct 15, 2020 18:37
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bird with big dick posted:Can (Ford F-150 incl remote start) key fobs be reprogrammed? I now have two of them for a truck that is in a scrap yard and I assume if they can be they'd have a fair amount of value. Unless it's very new those key fobs are not programmed. The keyless entry system is programmed to use the fixed identifier of a particular fob. Whether that can be done or not is very year/model dependent. The older you go the more likely it's the case.
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Oct 15, 2020 18:54
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My dad and I cannot figure out what type of gas his new-to-him 2017 Genesis G80 3.8L is supposed to take. The dealer says premium. Most things online say regular.
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Oct 15, 2020 20:29
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:My dad and I cannot figure out what type of gas his new-to-him 2017 Genesis G80 3.8L is supposed to take. The dealer says premium. Most things online say regular. Read the manual? Or look under the gas filler flap?
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Oct 15, 2020 20:30
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Read the manual? Or look under the gas filler flap?
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Oct 15, 2020 20:31
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:My dad and I cannot figure out what type of gas his new-to-him 2017 Genesis G80 3.8L is supposed to take. The dealer says premium. Most things online say regular. It can probably handle any octane. It has a knock sensor and can vary the spark to match. Try a tank of regular, then a tank of premium. I doubt you'll notice a difference.
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Oct 15, 2020 20:39
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It's on page F6 of your manual. 3.8 engine Your new vehicle is designed to use only unleaded fuel having an octane number ((R+M)/2) of 87 (Research Octane Number 91) or higher. (Do not use methanol blended fuels.) In other words, 87 If you had the 5.0L, you could use 91.
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Oct 15, 2020 21:00
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Silly question, but can you still use 86 octane at altitude if it calls for 87, or do you need to switch to a higher octane? Just curious, apparently most of the Texas panhandle is high enough we get 86 octane as default.
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Oct 15, 2020 23:35
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2004 Toyota Highlander. This plastic vent fucting goes beneath glove box (front passenger side) and vents hot/cold air onto front passenger's feet. One of its clips broke off. As a result it no longer snaps into place. This is where it would normally snap into. Anything wrong with just using aluminum duct tape to secure it to its mating surface? It still has 2 of the 3 clips intact. It just wobbles. Really hoping to avoid a trip to the local pick and pull. \/ Fuctin' right, homie melon cat fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Oct 16, 2020 |
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Oct 16, 2020 04:00
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Nope; go ahead and tape that fucting back together.
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Oct 16, 2020 04:03
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Charles posted:It's on page F6 of your manual.
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Oct 16, 2020 15:45
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:This passage confuses me though, how are "octane number of 87" and "Research Octane Number 91" the same? I recognize this may be a stupid question. Octane ratings on pumps vary by country. So as I understand it, RON is the standard, and you have to look up how it converts locally. So RON 91 is 87 in the US.
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Oct 16, 2020 15:54
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Strife posted:Octane ratings on pumps vary by country. So as I understand it, RON is the standard, and you have to look up how it converts locally. There are two protocols for determining octane ratings. One is called the "research" method and the other is the "motor" method. Both involve actually burning the fuel in a standardized engine and comparing them to other fuels. I don't know the exact protocols or how they differ, but they produce ratings that are about 8 numbers different. So different countries use different specs for rating their gasoline. Some just list the Research number (RON), while others list the average of the two (R+M/2). They are functionally equivalent, you just have to know which standard is being used.
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Oct 16, 2020 16:01
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Most countries use RON while the US uses RON + MON / 2. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating#RON It's going to be lower than the pure RON number by 2-4 points.
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Oct 16, 2020 16:04
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How hard is it to program your own fob? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-1995-1996-1997-Avalon-Remote-Key-Keyless-Entry-FOB-Transmitter-GQ43VT7T/ My old fob the button fell off(and was lost) if I buy this off ebay is it fairly straightforward to program it(it says it comes with instructions)? Do I need some kind of equipment or software or anything? breadnsucc fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Oct 16, 2020 |
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Oct 16, 2020 16:47
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Link's dead, but if it is one of the outer shell buttons, you can usually buy a new shell and transfer the electronics over to it.
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Oct 16, 2020 16:49
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Inside of a fob is a circuit board with some buttons and a battery. If its just a button missing you could grab a similar fob and pop it open and transfer the circuit board and battery over. Just make sure you got the buttons in the correct place.
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Oct 16, 2020 16:50
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its essentially the same price for that thing and a worn out old fob that is exactly the same, is it much easier to go with the old fob and switch out the guts then?
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Oct 16, 2020 16:53
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breadnsucc posted:its essentially the same price for that thing and a worn out old fob that is exactly the same, is it much easier to go with the old fob and switch out the guts then? Some where between "a lot" and "$300 at the dealership". If you can swap the guts, just do that and we won't have to get into the minutae of what year/make/model you've got and how handy you are.
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Oct 16, 2020 17:46
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It should run ya about 15 or 20 for a shell at autozone. Replacing is really easy, just stick a penny in an indent on the top and twist to pull apart the shell and same with your current fob. Take out the board and the battery, put the battery in the new shell and the board on top of the battery. Then pop the cover back on, making sure the buttons match. I'm assuming all fobs are like my '04 one internally.
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Oct 16, 2020 18:31
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Leal posted:It should run ya about 15 or 20 for a shell at autozone. Replacing is really easy, just stick a penny in an indent on the top and twist to pull apart the shell and same with your current fob. Take out the board and the battery, put the battery in the new shell and the board on top of the battery. Then pop the cover back on, making sure the buttons match. You can do like I did with my Scion key and use a heat gun to melt the glue around the glued-in immobilizer chip and hey why doesn't this work anymore? 
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Oct 16, 2020 19:31
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I’m thinking about trading my 2013 BMW 328i in for a minivan. I’ve got worn PS4Ses on it and the rear brakes squeak. Should I fix these issues before the trade-in, or am I unlikely to get a positive ROI on those costs? (Also, if I should be asking this stuff in the buy-a-car thread or somewhere else, let me know.) E: and of course I’d replace the PS4Ses w/ cheaper tires, I doubt any used car lot gives a gently caress about fancy tires
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Oct 16, 2020 19:35
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My brother in law got a call from the dealership that they bought a minivan from a couple months ago saying they installed the wrong plates (?) on the car. My sister got new plates in the mail with Secretary of State of Illinois packaging and a registration sticker with the new plates number and the correct VIN. This is all the info I have (I told her to look at the old registration card to see what it says). Is there a scam here that they need to be worried about or is this just something that happens and how it's resolved?
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Oct 16, 2020 19:36
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Steely Dad posted:I’m thinking about trading my 2013 BMW 328i in for a minivan. I’ve got worn PS4Ses on it and the rear brakes squeak. Should I fix these issues before the trade-in, or am I unlikely to get a positive ROI on those costs? (Also, if I should be asking this stuff in the buy-a-car thread or somewhere else, let me know.) Don't do anything. The guys going to look it over for like 5 minutes and give you the auction price on trade in. They're probably not going to keep it on the lot, just send it straight to auction.
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Oct 16, 2020 19:43
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2004 Highlander again. What kind of radiator-friendly solution can I use to clean out this coolant reservoir? It's filled with old deposits/sediment. I don't think this reservoir has ever been removed and cleaned out before. Also hoping to avoid a trip to the hardware store so was wondering about any common household cleaners that I could use for this (without creating a chemical gas reaction that could kill me).
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Oct 16, 2020 22:44
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melon cat posted:2004 Highlander again. What kind of radiator-friendly solution can I use to clean out this coolant reservoir? It's filled with old deposits/sediment. I don't think this reservoir has ever been removed and cleaned out before. Also hoping to avoid a trip to the hardware store so was wondering about any common household cleaners that I could use for this (without creating a chemical gas reaction that could kill me). It's probably lime scale of one form or another, so vinegar or other coffee maker cleaner would probably work. You'll probably need a bottle brush and do some scouring, too.
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Oct 16, 2020 22:49
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Uthor posted:My brother in law got a call from the dealership that they bought a minivan from a couple months ago saying they installed the wrong plates (?) on the car. My sister got new plates in the mail with Secretary of State of Illinois packaging and a registration sticker with the new plates number and the correct VIN. This is all the info I have (I told her to look at the old registration card to see what it says). Update: Found her current registration and the license plate listed does not match the plates currently on the car. The new plates match the new registration. So it does seem like a gently caress up at the dealer. My BIL got a voice mail and a text message. I told them to call the dealer for an explanation.
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Oct 16, 2020 23:21
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skipdogg posted:Don't do anything. The guys going to look it over for like 5 minutes and give you the auction price on trade in. They're probably not going to keep it on the lot, just send it straight to auction. Yep. Even if they did keep it to sell, they'll put tires and brakes on it at their cost, which is going to be less than yours. melon cat posted:2004 Highlander again. What kind of radiator-friendly solution can I use to clean out this coolant reservoir? It's filled with old deposits/sediment. I don't think this reservoir has ever been removed and cleaned out before. Also hoping to avoid a trip to the hardware store so was wondering about any common household cleaners that I could use for this (without creating a chemical gas reaction that could kill me). Having owned a few vehicles with overflows that looked like that - what's your goal here? If you're worried about any of that flaking off and clogging something, just hit it with water. If it doesn't flake off on its own with water, it's not going to do it for water and glycol. If you want it to look nicer, buy a new overflow bottle. I've never seen anything in a radiator overflow that worried me enough to do anything more than hose it out.
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Oct 16, 2020 23:27
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melon cat posted:2004 Highlander again. What kind of radiator-friendly solution can I use to clean out this coolant reservoir? It's filled with old deposits/sediment. I don't think this reservoir has ever been removed and cleaned out before. Also hoping to avoid a trip to the hardware store so was wondering about any common household cleaners that I could use for this (without creating a chemical gas reaction that could kill me). There’s a YouTube video for almost everything. There’s a few good ones if you just search coolant reservoir cleaning
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Oct 17, 2020 02:15
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