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z0331 posted:Hah! That was a typo - 6/4 inch. Ohhhhh, 6/4 makes way more sense than 6" x 4". I was like drat, even I wouldn't rip that by hand. I do rip leg stock pretty often though. Builds character 
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Oct 14, 2020 21:12
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Discussion>The Bone Depot> being interviewed about my job at the mudslamming factory
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Oct 14, 2020 21:27
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Christ, hand planing is exhausting. Especially when little screwups result in bigger repetition errors. Especially especially when the whole point of doing it is to make another, different plane. Suntan Boy fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Oct 14, 2020 |
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Oct 14, 2020 21:36
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There is a reason idiots spend money to go pretend to do manual labor under the guise of "CrossFit".
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Oct 14, 2020 22:16
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Jhet posted:To be fair, slat-flipping is derived directly from mud slamming. So it’s good to know where our skills come from. I question that assertion. I think you're leaving out a missing link, as it were.
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Oct 14, 2020 23:26
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CommonShore posted:There are a lot of ??? in this video. He 100% has like 12 off camera people helping him with this. Not that it makes it not interesting to see how the parts come together. John does it all himself by hand on his property in NE Queensland, filming included. Source: I know him from high school.
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Oct 15, 2020 00:14
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z0331 posted:I work in my musty, unfinished basement with just about zero air circulation, limited outlets, and almost no overhead space due to ductwork. I could maaaybe see myself getting some sort of contractor-style stuff to set up outside when I need it, but eh. I absolutely understand and while I do have power tools my focus is still around my bench and my toolchest. Given your situation I'd consider a Kreg ACS or a bandsaw tho, both can be run off of a single 110v outlet.
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Oct 15, 2020 01:31
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Beardcrumb posted:John does it all himself by hand on his property in NE Queensland, filming included. Is he awesome or insane or both? There needs to be a thread about this channel or something because I have gone down the rabbit hole here and this is the most literally DIY poo poo ever and it's  . About to start digging up my yard to build a kiln brb.
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Oct 15, 2020 02:16
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Looking for input on a project. Building a new desk, but I'm in the middle of moving and most of my tools are still at the old house. I made an entryway table out of just 2x4's to learn how to use a jointer I recently got. That turned out great, but I do not have the space now for a massive glue up to make the size desk I need. Bought a Baltic Birch "butcher block" countertop from Menards, and am looking at finishing it. Thinking about using some iron acetate to get a little more contrast between the woods. But seems like iron acetate seems to stick with shades of greys with lighter wood like this. Kind of looking for something "warmer" than that. I just want something with some browns, and more contrast so it doesn't all look like a slab painted "brown". Does anyone have any opinions on putting a stain on afterwards? I'm guessing I would need to stick with water based. And would I need to use a pre-stain wood conditioner after using the acetate? Looking for the color of the countertop from http://www.paperandpear.com/how-we-stained-our-butcher-block-countertops-with-vinegar-steel-wool/. But following instructions from this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOlf0EN8hsw. The website doesn't have very good instructions on mixing the acetate other than "stuff it in the jar for awhile", but the video has some precision in the making, just not quite the color I'm looking for. Both of these videos are starting with the same countertop I'm using. Would rather not finish the desk with oil, as I don't want to have to take the office apart once a month to refinish it. Or am I doing a dumb and should just use a stain alone? Is there a stain that would get me the look I'm after? Just higher contrast in a pretty bland slab of wood. If I'm just staining, I would, but not certain if I would need to with the acetate? I'm heading to Menards after work tomorrow to pick up some birch panels to test things out, but not sure if those will turn out the same as the counter top. So I'm hoping I can learn from other peoples experiences before I make my own (mistakes). My significant other wants my "office" out of the living room ASAP. And getting a weekend with the car and kids bikes out of the garage to set up the sawhorses to do this is a miracle. If anyone knows of a really good guide for this stuff, that would help a lot too. Been searching for more info, but a lot that I've found is using different woods, like oak or even pine. Something already with interesting contrast and figure. Most things I've seen/read, with Birch they are aiming for ebony so its all black, or the treatment just leaves it this boring rust colored brown. Finishing isn't my forte. All my stuff is pretty strictly function over form, so lots of straight lines and flat surfaces. And for finishing things its so far just been spray with some clear laquer to protect the wood some and move on with my life. Its time I did something that looks nice.
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Oct 15, 2020 02:35
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Is he awesome or insane or both? There needs to be a thread about this channel or something because I have gone down the rabbit hole here and this is the most literally DIY poo poo ever and it's You better think hard on this thing. That dude has primo clayey mud from before Dreamtime and if you ain't got that, you're in deep sandy, loamy but-not-good-for-tile dirt. Without a paddle.
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Oct 15, 2020 03:02
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more falafel please posted:I got a very similar set of these from Rockler as well. Whoa that owns
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Oct 15, 2020 03:06
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Syves posted:
A water based dye stain needs to go on before a pre-stain conditioner (which is not something you really need anyway). You could put a pigment stain over top of the dye if you wanted a more consistent color. Topcoat with whatever really. If you’re comfortable spraying lacquer, that’s a good option or shellac or wipe on poly. Mr. Mambold posted:You better think hard on this thing. That dude has primo clayey mud from before Dreamtime and if you ain't got that, you're in deep sandy, loamy but-not-good-for-tile dirt. Without a paddle. .
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Oct 15, 2020 04:55
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https://v.redd.it/o4b5nupki6t51/DASH_480.mp4?source=fallback
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Oct 15, 2020 12:40
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This is the woodworking thread not the sorcery thread 
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Oct 15, 2020 13:07
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How much???!?!!!? I'll take two.
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Oct 15, 2020 13:48
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Truly we live in the future. That's incredible!
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Oct 15, 2020 13:52
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Is that actually a thing normal people can rent or something cause uh, that’d make my life a whole lot easier.
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Oct 15, 2020 14:19
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That is really cool and I hope there is a way to mount it to something because holding your arms still like that to do a while surface would get exhausting. I also really want to see what it does to a hot dog for some reason.
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Oct 15, 2020 14:30
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Not the same model, but, 20 grand? https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/3033606504...RhoCtOYQAvD_BwE
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Oct 15, 2020 14:39
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z0331 posted:Is that actually a thing normal people can rent or something cause uh, that’d make my life a whole lot easier. rent the equipment not really, rent people who have them yes. Contact local Sandblasting companies and ask if they have a Laser Surface Treatment. Of course you can find the equipment for sale on Alibaba and Aliexpress from under $10k but I don't know how much I would trust a 1000w handheld laser from there. JEEVES420 fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Oct 15, 2020 |
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Oct 15, 2020 14:44
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A furniture restorer i follow on instagram posted this. I guess it does not work well on mahogany. Here is where you can get one: https://adapt-laser.com/buying-a-laser/
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Oct 15, 2020 15:17
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Also given what he's doing...have a really good respirator for that dust/vapor of lead and god knows what else you just created.
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Oct 15, 2020 19:05
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I've seen the same technology used to remove rust from structural steel. It's neat as hell but also correspondingly expensive. I'd be surprised if there wasn't some sort of licensing required for owning a laser with that output. E: Turns out there is no federal licensing requirement for lasers of any power, but you can't market or sell a laser above 5 mW as a pointer. Since this is clearly not a pointing device it's totally legit. That's wild. Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Oct 15, 2020 |
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Oct 15, 2020 19:24
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Blindeye posted:Also given what he's doing...have a really good respirator for that dust/vapor of lead and god knows what else you just created. No dust, its all plasma at those temps  The vapors can be toxic as hell though so yeah hoods and snorkels are your friend.
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Oct 15, 2020 19:54
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CommonShore posted:There are a lot of ??? in this video. He 100% has like 12 off camera people helping him with this. Not that it makes it not interesting to see how the parts come together. CommonShore posted:Yeah but if that were the case the walls of the hut would be drying out as he worked. For the bottoms to be still plastic when the tops are being put into place you'd need a whole team of people slamming it into place together. Nah. Dude makes his videos himself. He's in Australia, it's a pretty humid forest. Start at the beginning of his videos with the oldest ones and you can watch his skills progress, get a feel for his property he's working on. I've seen other wattle and daub demos. You can throw up the daub for a hut in a few hours if you're practiced. e. dang, missed that there was another page, beaten lol Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Is he awesome or insane or both? There needs to be a thread about this channel or something because I have gone down the rabbit hole here and this is the most literally DIY poo poo ever and it's I think a primitive technology DIY thread would be great. Not specifically about that one youtube channel, but more generically "how to start a civilization from scratch" thread Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Oct 15, 2020 |
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Oct 15, 2020 20:03
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Olothreutes posted:E: Turns out there is no federal licensing requirement for lasers of any power, but you can't market or sell a laser above 5 mW as a pointer. Since this is clearly not a pointing device it's totally legit. That's wild.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIHSxLYzc6Q&t=43s
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Oct 15, 2020 20:42
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I know where some clay is up the country but there hasn’t been a really hard rock suitable for axe making around here in like millions years. It’s all soft sandstone and limestone with cool fossils in it Not even flint?
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Oct 15, 2020 20:43
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Holy crap that's the exact sound effects from Centipede.
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Oct 15, 2020 20:44
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Jaded Burnout posted:Not even flint? Flint is actually a highly regional stone. There were ancient trade networks to move that poo poo around.
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Oct 15, 2020 20:47
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Is he awesome or insane or both? There needs to be a thread about this channel or something because I have gone down the rabbit hole here and this is the most literally DIY poo poo ever and it's We've only chatted a few times over the past several years, but I can definitely say he's not insane. Literally just a dude who likes building stuff for fun and eventually went down a rabbit hole of his own. When he started making bank from Youtube he used some of the money to but a bush plot so he could do it more fulltime and work on a book based on his blog.
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Oct 15, 2020 20:58
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CommonShore posted:Flint is actually a highly regional stone. There were ancient trade networks to move that poo poo around. That's my white (cliffs of Dover) privilege showing.
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Oct 15, 2020 22:06
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mds2 posted:A furniture restorer i follow on instagram posted this. I guess it does not work well on mahogany. I follow the same dude and he mentioned in the comments that he got in touch with a company that sells them and they basically said you want about 100 watts for that application, and the cost of the machines is essentially about $1000 per watt. Big oof.
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Oct 15, 2020 22:31
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Jaded Burnout posted:That's my white (cliffs of Dover) privilege showing. I once saw a documentary on that beaker guy's grave which had a segment about how Dover (and I think Salisbury?) flint has been found ridiculous distances away on the continent. There were prehistoric flint mines there where they used sticks and antlers to dig black gold out of the chalk.
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Oct 15, 2020 22:53
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Get Bob Flexner’s book ‘Understanding Wood Finishing.’ It will demystify a lot of stuff and anyone who finishes wood should read it. There are a bunch of ways to oxidize wood, but in my experience most of them are more trouble than they are worth. I’ve not tried the iron acetate thing, but you should be able to get a nice warm brown like you want from a water based dye. It will likely give a more consistent color than the acetate solution would, but will accentuate any figure there is in the wood more than a pigmented stain. W. D. Lockwood makes excellent dyes in a range of colors. You might start with their Yellow Brown Mahogany (1.5 tsp/qt of water to start?) and see how you like it. I just stained some birch plywood with this today. It’s a nice warm honey brown-I will post pics tmw. Thanks for this! Not easy to find dyes around here, so ordered a few colors and will pick up a sacrificial birch panel at menards so I can test things out Any tips for dyeing a 72"x36" slab at once where I don't leave blotches all over? Spray bottle? Saw a video where someone just cut up some touch up sponges and that seemed to spread things out on a surface pretty quick.
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Oct 15, 2020 22:54
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CommonShore posted:I once saw a documentary on that beaker guy's grave which had a segment about how Dover (and I think Salisbury?) flint has been found ridiculous distances away on the continent. There were prehistoric flint mines there where they used sticks and antlers to dig black gold out of the chalk. Salisbury is where stonehenge is, so that tracks.
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Oct 15, 2020 23:49
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Syves posted:Thanks for this! Not easy to find dyes around here, so ordered a few colors and will pick up a sacrificial birch panel at menards so I can test things out One way is you can precoat with a sanding sealer, which gives more control over permeability.
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Oct 16, 2020 00:05
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E:Mr. Mambold posted:One way is you can precoat with a sanding sealer, which gives more control over permeability. Syves posted:Thanks for this! Not easy to find dyes around here, so ordered a few colors and will pick up a sacrificial birch panel at menards so I can test things out Before you stain and after you have sanded, you need to wet the wood all over to raise the fibers and then sand again with 150 or 220. If you don't, the stain will raise the grain and it's a bit of a mess. As long as all your dyes are for the same solvent (water, alcohol, or mineral spirits) you can mix them together to get the color you want-either as multiple layers of dye or to tweak the color and do the stain in one application. My crazy buddy Floyd has a good video (and whole series on making samples) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZGJ0m7C3WU&t=2s E2: This is a really great video too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5ygOsqYsOY Jaded Burnout posted:Not even flint? Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Oct 16, 2020 |
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Oct 16, 2020 00:13
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Basic question: why does it blast the surface material off instead of baking/melting it on?
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Oct 16, 2020 00:15
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Stultus Maximus posted:Basic question: why does it blast the surface material off instead of baking/melting it on? Because it turns it into a gas. It would have to be a much lower temperature to just melt it.
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Oct 16, 2020 00:19
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 18:13 |
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Hello DIYers! We have a new forum/mod feedback thread and would love to hear your thoughts! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3944213 Get ready to read this message 15 more times in every thread you read!
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Oct 16, 2020 01:30
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