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Good luck. You guys will have a blast.
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Oct 15, 2020 14:27
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bicievino posted:The only people I tail unannounced are e-bike riders. My brain just goes straight in to keirin mode and I lock on to someone riding a derny bike. if you do this the ebike rider reserves the right to slowly accelerate
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Oct 15, 2020 14:31
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Feels Villeneuve posted:if you do this the ebike rider reserves the right to slowly accelerate I'd be offended if they didn't!
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Oct 15, 2020 20:30
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Feels Villeneuve posted:if you do this the ebike rider reserves the right to slowly accelerate and every five minutes you have to come around.
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Oct 15, 2020 22:42
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tylertfb posted:and every five minutes you have to come around. Actually you're definitely not allowed to overtake until they pull off. I'm sorry ebike dude, I am required to suck your wheel.
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Oct 15, 2020 23:40
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just ordered a couple of bike stands  adulting 
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Oct 16, 2020 01:24
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One of my favorite bike YouTubers, Path Less Pedaled, came out with a fall riding clothing guide. Good stuff. https://youtu.be/dDRaSuYtNpk
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Oct 16, 2020 02:40
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Hello bicycle thread! My husband and I rented some bikes over the weekend and had a blast, so we are looking to pick up our own in the near future. I have a couple of newbie questions I didn't see addressed in the OP. I understand that if someone wants my bike off my car or the bicycle rack, they can get it, so it's basically an exercise of making the bikes slightly more difficult to take than anything. What's a good setup for locking our bikes to racks? And any suggestions on good car rack brands?
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Oct 16, 2020 14:54
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What’s your rack budget?
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Oct 16, 2020 15:09
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kimbo305 posted:What’s your rack budget? Just looking at prices online, I would say, around $300-400? We need some room in the budget for the 5 different locks we apparently need.  Both of our vehicles are crossovers, if that affects recommendations.
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Oct 16, 2020 15:16
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Skutter posted:Just looking at prices online, I would say, around $300-400? We need some room in the budget for the 5 different locks we apparently need. I don't have personal experience with them but the sea sucker racks look pretty nifty
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Oct 16, 2020 15:18
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Skutter posted:Just looking at prices online, I would say, around $300-400? We need some room in the budget for the 5 different locks we apparently need. The more you make it a habit of leaving your bikes on the rack, even if locked, the sooner they will be stolen. It is only a matter of time. So you need to do everything in your power to plan your trips to avoid this situation as much as possible. Coastal OC is awful. I NEVER leave a bike on a rack here. Hell, twice I have had people try to remove bikes from my hitch rack while I was stopped at a red light.
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Oct 16, 2020 15:33
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Cat rear end Trophy posted:The more you make it a habit of leaving your bikes on the rack, even if locked, the sooner they will be stolen. It is only a matter of time. So you need to do everything in your power to plan your trips to avoid this situation as much as possible. Coastal OC is awful. I NEVER leave a bike on a rack here. Hell, twice I have had people try to remove bikes from my hitch rack while I was stopped at a red light. Yeah, that's what I'm seeing online. We would only be doing trips from home > trail > home. No stopping somewhere for food and leaving our bikes unattended, or anything like that. We also don't want them stolen of the rack in traffic either. We're in central Florida, which doesn't sound as bad as California (from what I've read so far), but we still have a lot of meth here. Loving Africa Chaps posted:I don't have personal experience with them but the sea sucker racks look pretty nifty Thanks! Will give those a look.
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Oct 16, 2020 15:47
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Depending on where you live you might not want to keep an empty rack on your car either as there's a good chance that will also get stolen. As far as rack suggestions go there's lots of good stuff out there. The two that I would recommend are either a Saris (Bones is the model I used, but you probably have to look up compatibility for your car models) as the inexpensive option or 1UP as the luxury option. Both of those will leave you with options to lock bikes to the rack itself. But to echo what was already said above, any time your bike is unattended is a chance for it to get stolen.
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Oct 16, 2020 15:52
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Skutter posted:Hello bicycle thread! My husband and I rented some bikes over the weekend and had a blast, so we are looking to pick up our own in the near future. I have a couple of newbie questions I didn't see addressed in the OP. If your intended usage for a rack is just home-trail-home you should be fine with a nicer trunk rack like a Saris Bones or similar. If you have a hitch already it's worth getting a hitch rack over a trunk rack for several reasons - access to the hatchback while the bikes are loaded, stability, and avoiding putting the feet of the rack against the paint of the car. If you're only leaving the bikes on the car to go home-trail-home then you should be fine with a cheap lock around the bikes on the back (for transport purposes). No one's going to cut a cable at a stoplight. I leave my bikes on the roof rack to go into stores and such but my rack has locks. I still don't leave them out of my sight for more than 10 minutes at a time, even with the locks.
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Oct 16, 2020 15:57
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do any of you folks use the shimano blue spd-sl cleats with the small amount of float? i used to ride the zero float red cleats, but now that i'm older and fatter, i'm worried about hurting myself if i use those and don't have them dialed in exactly right. the yellow cleats that came with my pedals have too much float, the motion feels like i'm starting to clip out even though i'm not, and they make the heel of my shoe rub against the crank sometimes
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Oct 16, 2020 17:31
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DELETE CASCADE posted:do any of you folks use the shimano blue spd-sl cleats with the small amount of float? i used to ride the zero float red cleats, but now that i'm older and fatter, i'm worried about hurting myself if i use those and don't have them dialed in exactly right. the yellow cleats that came with my pedals have too much float, the motion feels like i'm starting to clip out even though i'm not, and they make the heel of my shoe rub against the crank sometimes I did for a while. They were a good compromise for me, I started with Yellow but felt they were too floppy. Are you actually having trouble with the zero float ones? If they weren’t causing you trouble, I wouldn’t change them.
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Oct 16, 2020 17:50
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DELETE CASCADE posted:do any of you folks use the shimano blue spd-sl cleats with the small amount of float? i used to ride the zero float red cleats, but now that i'm older and fatter, i'm worried about hurting myself if i use those and don't have them dialed in exactly right. the yellow cleats that came with my pedals have too much float, the motion feels like i'm starting to clip out even though i'm not, and they make the heel of my shoe rub against the crank sometimes I do and it’s just right for me for pretty much the reasons you describe. I’ve never ridden reds, but I started with yellows and it felt like my foot was sloshing around on the pedal and I sometimes had a hard time telling if I was clipped in. The blue ones give me enough movement to be comfortable without needing super precise adjustment, but are rigid enough that I still feel locked into the bike.
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Oct 16, 2020 17:51
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:I did for a while. They were a good compromise for me, I started with Yellow but felt they were too floppy. when i say i used to ride the red ones, i mean 10 years ago, when i was in grad school  i don't have a pair right now to compareOldsrocket_27 posted:I do and it’s just right for me for pretty much the reasons you describe. I’ve never ridden reds, but I started with yellows and it felt like my foot was sloshing around on the pedal and I sometimes had a hard time telling if I was clipped in. The blue ones give me enough movement to be comfortable without needing super precise adjustment, but are rigid enough that I still feel locked into the bike. yeah this sounds like exactly what i'm looking for, thanks!
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Oct 16, 2020 17:54
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:I did for a while. They were a good compromise for me, I started with Yellow but felt they were too floppy. I run the Look equivalent of the zero float cleats and I much prefer them. IMO the online sentiment that you’re going to blow up your knees if your cleat is 1 micron off is very overblown.
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Oct 16, 2020 17:55
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:IMO the online sentiment that you’re going to blow up your knees if your cleat is 1 micron off is very overblown. Otoh, if it doesn't feel right, you should readjust. At best, you're just gonna be annoyed by the off fit every time you ride.
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Oct 16, 2020 18:28
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Talk to me about oval chainrings. Are they legit or a gimmick that looks bad
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Oct 16, 2020 18:31
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I have the blue cleats because they came with my new pedals and am liking them. You do need to spend a little more time getting the angles figured out. I've stopped on rides and made slight adjustments. Other nice thing is they have little lines to help you get them in position and in the same spot on both shoes. I don't have both cleats in the same spot or at the same angle on both shoes but it's nice to start there at least.
jamal fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Oct 16, 2020 |
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Oct 16, 2020 18:36
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kimbo305 posted:Otoh, if it doesn't feel right, you should readjust. At best, you're just gonna be annoyed by the off fit every time you ride. Totally agree. I’ve just seen a lot of people post that even if it feels right it could be slightly wrong and your knees are going to explode into wet paste.
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Oct 16, 2020 18:40
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Time posted:Talk to me about oval chainrings. Are they legit or a gimmick that looks bad I mean, if they were legit, wouldn’t every bike come with them?
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Oct 16, 2020 18:46
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Time posted:Talk to me about oval chainrings. Are they legit or a gimmick that looks bad It's personal preference. I liked it on my 1x setup where I didn't have to worry about setting up the front derailleur for varying radius. The biggest issue is that it's tough to know if you'd prefer it because a) cost and b) limited configuration options. Some rings have slots/multiple holes so you can adjust +/- 10deg. And if you're using 5-bolt cranks, you can rotate the ring in 72deg increments. But if you have 4-bolt or direct mount, the angles that make sense don't really come up. And by make sense, I mean what oval rings typically advertise and what this paper I read before I bought my oval: http://www.noncircularchainring.be/pdf/Biomechanical%20study%20chainrings%20-%20release%202.pdf (note that the pedaling motion here is with the bike moving to the left, opposite to how bikes are usually posed, with the chainrings facing you)  As marketed, most ovals get the hardest ~70deg before your crank reaches horizontal, or 20deg past the top of the stroke. The paper does some modeling to conclude that it's best if the hardest gearing is 70deg after your crank reaches horizontal, or 20deg before top of the stroke. Outside of 20min of test riding, I've never done it the marketed way, only as recommended by the paper. Past 80rpm or so, it was hard for me to notice the difference. But it's definitely noticeable and a bit smoother at low cadences.
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Oct 16, 2020 18:48
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Time posted:Talk to me about oval chainrings. Are they legit or a gimmick that looks bad I've found that I really like having an oval ring for climbs, mud, nonsense, or whatever. I left my 2x outer ring as a round one because if I'm just spinning at a good speed I still prefer having that smoother pedal stroke. All of my oval rings are absolute black and are set up in the default position.
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Oct 16, 2020 19:24
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Eejit posted:You both are delightful, thanks so much. At 5'11" I'll definitely be on a large frame. I'm going to call both shops and figure out pricing and go from there. Thank you both again. I know this a few pages old, but you should look at the new stumpjumper evo. I was on the verge of ordering a ripmo until it came out.
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Oct 16, 2020 20:02
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Time posted:Talk to me about oval chainrings. Are they legit or a gimmick that looks bad I've got an oval ring on my MTB full time, and it's been very helpful in sudden steep sections where I need to apply more power quickly. I've never used an oval on a 2x or 3x system, though.
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Oct 16, 2020 20:23
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nwin posted:I mean, if they were legit, wouldn’t every bike come with them? I don’t think this is a good way to evaluate things at all kimbo305 posted:It's personal preference. I liked it on my 1x setup where I didn't have to worry about setting up the front derailleur for varying radius. This is good info, thanks 🙏 Crumps Brother posted:I love mine. I have a 1x fat bike that I've gone back and forth on between oval and round. It's going to be oval permanently now. I have a 2x cx bike with an oval inner and round outer. My last bike is a cx single speed and I have an oval on that too. Chain tension is weird with it, but I haven't had any problems yet. Thank you as well, I hadn’t thought about how it would work in a 2x setup Overall it might not be worth the headache for me but this is all good info
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Oct 16, 2020 20:28
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i want an all-city super professional
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Oct 16, 2020 21:45
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n8r posted:I know this a few pages old, but you should look at the new stumpjumper evo. I was on the verge of ordering a ripmo until it came out. I actually decided to go Hightower because I can get it in aluminum. For 4200 you get really excellent parts and I don't want to pay the premium for carbon. I appreciate the rec though, the evo looks dope
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Oct 16, 2020 21:57
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numberoneposter posted:i want an all-city super professional The flat mount design... it takes a toll  What’s the pin coming out of the bolt?
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Oct 16, 2020 23:34
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Eejit posted:I actually decided to go Hightower because I can get it in aluminum. For 4200 you get really excellent parts and I don't want to pay the premium for carbon. I appreciate the rec though, the evo looks dope Hell yeah. I think you’ll love it for Colorado riding
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Oct 16, 2020 23:38
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kimbo305 posted:The flat mount design... it takes a toll That’s the bolt that should be going into the caliper if it were mounted for a 140mm disc, then a little cotter pin would go into the hole you see on the side of the caliper, to in theory keep the bolt from backing out. It’s not the right bolt, but I mean it’ll work.
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Oct 16, 2020 23:48
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vikingstrike posted:Hell yeah. I think you’ll love it for Colorado riding Yeah, excited! When I can actually order one. In February.
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Oct 17, 2020 00:19
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i gotta say, this modern ultegra poo poo is really excellent. even the hardest shift it has to make, from the small ring to the big, you slam that lever and it shifts instantly, like it's an extension of your hand. who needs di2 when mechanical components are This Good
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Oct 17, 2020 03:57
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nwin posted:I mean, if they were legit, wouldn’t every bike come with them? They don't shift as well as round rings, otherwise they'd be more prolific in the 2x world. They are very common aftermarket upgrades on the MTB side of things. I ran them on my 2x road bike and they made my piston-like pedaling style feel more round. Your peak power occurs when you activate your glutes and quads and mash down on the pedal between the 2 o'clock and 5 o'clock position. It makes sense to orient the oval ring so that it is effectively larger during this power phase. Conversely, it also makes sense to reduce the effective size of the chainring at bottom dead-center or the deadspot where you smaller calf muscles and hamstrings are unweighting your legs, but not really doing much else. With round rings, you end up with micro-accelerations on every revolution and accelerations are bad for endurance / fatigue.
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Oct 17, 2020 05:34
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I remember having biopace rings on a bike as a kid. I couldn't tell the difference.
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Oct 17, 2020 05:46
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Biopace are very circular but also not clocked intuitively.
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Oct 17, 2020 06:18
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