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Yeah Liquitex are some of the most popular and available (like every art store should have it so you don't have to worry about the weird state of availability and overcharging of hobby art supplies on amazon right now). I would say you want titanium white, carbon black (I use this a lot for pin washing actually, because I don't wanna get into huffing spirits) and then whatever colours match what your current palette requirements are right now.
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Oct 19, 2020 03:24
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Max Wilco posted:Yeah, I picked up on that partway through spraying the white primer. I was just having trouble finding a happy medium*. There were points where I had to try spraying the mat I was working on to see if there was primer still coming out, and other points where I'd pull back all the way and get a big splat of paint (which I guess would maybe fall under the umbrella of spider-webbing). I think some of that issue was related to the pressure not being set right. That is going to be dry tip, where paint is drying on the tip of the needle and preventing good flow and being at too low of PSI would make this worse. You should be using a drop or two of flow improver with everything(even the black primer or varnish) to help prevent this, and you'll need even more with whites. NEVER pull back all the way while pointing at a model, if paint isn't flowing smoothly rock the trigger all the way back and forth without any air coming out then shoot a bit of air with it only barely pulled back. This should clear up any flow issues, if you continue to have problems check the tip of the needle, it likely has paint on it, just put some airbrush cleaner on a lovely brush and clean off the end and go back to spraying. Also make sure the needle and nozzle are completely clean after each session, any amount of paint drying on them will only cause you endless issues next paint session. And yea +1 to some white ink, it has a lot of uses beyond just a zenithal. But regardless Stynylrez White should be plenty fine to zenithal prime models with, I did it with no issues.
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Oct 19, 2020 03:30
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Liquitex is smooth like butter. I bought a set of it and RD and almost always reach for liquitex.
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Oct 19, 2020 04:40
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My only issue has been buying Stynylrez White has been inconsistent. Some bottles are just not good. I mean this is likely true of any paint company and I just rolled the bad dice here. I have not found a white primer I absolutely love though.
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Oct 19, 2020 06:31
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daler rowney payne’s gray is magical ink for airbrushing shadows in
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Oct 19, 2020 08:30
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Does the Liquitex ink flow anything like self-made oil washes? Or to put it another way, how strong is the capillary action? That white ink might be a great solution for things like the conduits and tiny little rune things on Necrons, which I'd want to paint white before slapping on the new technical day-glo green.
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Oct 19, 2020 14:25
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I've also had issue with Stynylrez white. The black has been fine but the white was a headache.jesus WEP posted:daler rowney payne’s gray is magical ink for airbrushing shadows in
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Oct 19, 2020 15:29
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Der Shovel posted:Does the Liquitex ink flow anything like self-made oil washes? Or to put it another way, how strong is the capillary action? That white ink might be a great solution for things like the conduits and tiny little rune things on Necrons, which I'd want to paint white before slapping on the new technical day-glo green. You can mess with it. To do what you're talking about you can add some flow improver to it.
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Oct 19, 2020 16:05
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Or gloss varnish- both on the model and mixed in the ink
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Oct 19, 2020 16:07
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Can't you make your own panel liner with ink, medium, and flow improver?
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Oct 19, 2020 16:14
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Here's my first real attempt at minis. I've been painting some board game minis from a CMON game and not real happy with how a lot of them are coming out but it's amazing how much better GW plastic takes paint. I wanted a rustic space marine look (but not rusted) so this is what I came up with. Base coat was Macragge Blue then Contrast Talassar Blue on top of that then a lot of dry brush for the rustic stuff. IDK what color scheme this is or what chapter of Space Marines it would fit but I'd like to make a kill team list with this scheme.  
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Oct 19, 2020 16:28
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Spanish Manlove posted:Can't you make your own panel liner with ink, medium, and flow improver? Yep that’s all it is really. You can also use paint to less good but still useful results.
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Oct 19, 2020 16:49
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Inks are amazing but I tend to use them more as a glaze than for Zenethial. Their pigmentation is very strong but they are super thin so it's really perfect for airbrush. Yellow ink over white and pink makes yellow armor look great with very little effort and much less steps than with just acrylic paint.
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Oct 19, 2020 18:13
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Spanish Manlove posted:Can't you make your own panel liner with ink, medium, and flow improver? Heck I just use ink, glaze medium and water and it works just fine
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Oct 19, 2020 20:41
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I also find tinting with inks through an Airbrush to be a total joy. This guy got hit with Scale 75 green ink on his armour to give it a pump of saturation.  
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Oct 19, 2020 21:27
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Spanish Manlove posted:Can't you make your own panel liner with ink, medium, and flow improver? You totally can, but at some point you're fighting the properties of acrylic paint. At that point, if you're serious about panel lining, you should just embrace oils and enamels. They're just easier to work with and more forgiving, especially for things like panel lining.
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Oct 20, 2020 00:59
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Yeast posted:I also find tinting with inks through an Airbrush to be a total joy. This is amazing, explain what you did in more detail please.
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Oct 20, 2020 01:34
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jesus WEP posted:daler rowney payne’s gray is magical ink for airbrushing shadows in This holy gently caress. Changed my life. gently caress black y'all. Cooler colors recede into shadows and this pitch-black blue is goddamn amazing for instantly shadowing or shading the opposit underside of zenith highlights and highly reflective surfaces.
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Oct 20, 2020 03:16
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So uh, if I broke the nozzle on my sotar2020 and live in Canada (MB) how would I go about ordering one with a quick delivery time?
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Oct 20, 2020 05:24
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Bottom Liner posted:IDK what color scheme this is or what chapter of Space Marines it would fit but I'd like to make a kill team list with this scheme. They're Ultramarines that don't know how to keep their armor clean
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Oct 20, 2020 05:31
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Mugaaz posted:This is amazing, explain what you did in more detail please. Hey! What would you like to know. For plate: It's all scale 75 paints airbrushed on, everything else is brushwork. The Armour work up was Boreal Green -> Irati + Fall Green, Fall Green, then a thinned down Green "Inktensity" over the top. Easy and quick.
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Oct 20, 2020 05:59
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 looks real easy to knock over unless they put some weight in the bottom
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Oct 20, 2020 11:52
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It would be nice if it also holds 40mm bases a bit less firmly, it always looks like they’re warping them
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Oct 20, 2020 11:57
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Looks comfier in the palm and more easy for fine rotations though so what's a little butt plug between friends
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Oct 20, 2020 12:14
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Yeast posted:I also find tinting with inks through an Airbrush to be a total joy. That looks absolutely amazing. I love how vibrant the colours are, but the technique is also very good. I really need to figure out how to do small highlighting like that with my airbrush. Great job anyway!
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Oct 20, 2020 12:35
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I managed to snag a bottle of Vallejo Metal Color (pale burnt metal, no steel or duralumin available T_T) just to test the properties of the paint. I quite like it, though it does act strangely. First, it seems to go on almost transparent and then becomes more opaque as it dries. This is odd at first but then is very appreciated later on, it feels like I need two coats but really I only need one. Second, it dries fairly quickly and very metallic, far more metal-like than regular metallic paints. The coverage is very flat and even, and it looks almost like I applied a chrome wash or something. Overall very pleased with them. If you can get your hands on a bottle (probably go with steel or duralumin as they're more versatile) I say go for it.
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Oct 20, 2020 14:54
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Airbrush talk: white ink layers on top of a black primer? Does it go on opaquely or does it take a bunch of coats?
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Oct 20, 2020 15:04
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Verisimilidude posted:I managed to snag a bottle of Vallejo Metal Color (pale burnt metal, no steel or duralumin available T_T) just to test the properties of the paint. I quite like it, though it does act strangely. First, it seems to go on almost transparent and then becomes more opaque as it dries. This is odd at first but then is very appreciated later on, it feels like I need two coats but really I only need one. Second, it dries fairly quickly and very metallic, far more metal-like than regular metallic paints. The coverage is very flat and even, and it looks almost like I applied a chrome wash or something. Yeah I’m really digging the metal color, I’ve only been able to get gun metal and burned metal though, nobody seems to have steel, silver or gold in stock.
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Oct 20, 2020 15:09
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SERPUS posted:Airbrush talk: white ink layers on top of a black primer? Does it go on opaquely or does it take a bunch of coats?
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Oct 20, 2020 15:10
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took a 6 month break then discovered livery green:     
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Oct 20, 2020 16:18
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Do inks need to be thinned at all to run them through an airbrush, and if so you just use regular acrylic thinner?
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Oct 20, 2020 17:01
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they don’t need to but you certainly can and Our Lord And Saviour Vince Venturella thins them either 1:1 or 1:2 with thinner. You can use regular acrylic thinner or flow improver or some combination of the two
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Oct 20, 2020 18:10
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I've spent the last two months (occasionally) painting a pair of battle robots, and I'm really proud of them. I tried for some sort of a retro colour scheme, like some old metal toy robot. Got maybe a bit too excited with the chipping on the arms, but they started out way too clean-looking compared to my army and I got kinda carried away. The bases turned out pretty nice too, my old style was a bit flat and cold. Turns out I only needed a sepia wash to add some warmth and shadows. The lighting is a bit bad, unfortunately, sorry about that.     The rest of the deconstruction crew 
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Oct 20, 2020 19:23
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jesus WEP posted:Liquitex at least is pretty opaque, and also leaves a nice smooth transition to black So for example, I'm painting some classic green Striking Scorpions. Starting with a black primer (I have Vallejo surface black and Stynelrez black gloss, which is better for inks?), I can layer the Liquitex Green ink directly onto the black? For highlights and transitions, I can slowly add Liquitex Yellow ink into the mix? edit: Also, any differences noted between the brands: Liquitex, Daler-Rowney, Dr. Ph Martin? SERPUS fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Oct 20, 2020 |
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Oct 20, 2020 19:29
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If you are going to colour exclusively in inks, you should be using white and grey inks to establish tone first and then add value with coloured inks. Inks are very transparent so the zenithal highlighting actually shows through which lets you focus on how light falls on your model first and then add colour afterwards.
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Oct 20, 2020 19:41
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 I got an airbrush  I gambled on a hundred dollar nobrand compressor+airbrush combo pack from shenzhen and i feel pretty good about it
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Oct 20, 2020 20:05
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Mirthless posted:
Do you have a link for it? I was thinking of picking up a cheapy airbrush to start with since I have the space now.
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Oct 20, 2020 20:15
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SERPUS posted:So for example, I'm painting some classic green Striking Scorpions. Starting with a black primer (I have Vallejo surface black and Stynelrez black gloss, which is better for inks?), I can layer the Liquitex Green ink directly onto the black? For highlights and transitions, I can slowly add Liquitex Yellow ink into the mix? https://www.liquitex.com/row/products/professional/colors/acrylic-ink/ Titanium White is an opaque ink. The greens I clicked on were all transparent. Like someone said above, it’s better to get your values done with white ink, then put the green on on top of that
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Oct 20, 2020 20:19
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Decorus posted:I've spent the last two months (occasionally) painting a pair of battle robots, and I'm really proud of them. I tried for some sort of a retro colour scheme, like some old metal toy robot. Got maybe a bit too excited with the chipping on the arms, but they started out way too clean-looking compared to my army and I got kinda carried away. The bases turned out pretty nice too, my old style was a bit flat and cold. Turns out I only needed a sepia wash to add some warmth and shadows. Nice work on the robutt. I think you captured the retro toy robot look. Chipping adds a lot of interest too. They'll stand out amoung your deconstruction crew
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Oct 20, 2020 20:23
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Verisimilidude posted:Do you have a link for it? I was thinking of picking up a cheapy airbrush to start with since I have the space now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01984G4SU/ I immediately threw the paint set they included into my junk paint drawer as I have plenty of paint to try out already, aside from that everything included feels like it's well made. This airbrush set is a testament to a planned economy and a well subsidized manufacturing base 
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Oct 20, 2020 20:37
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