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How did they manage to make it look even more like a butt plug Jesus Christ. The actual product is one of the few GW tools that’s well priced for what you get. I bought 5 when they were on special. But man, that’s.. that’s something.
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Oct 20, 2020 20:42
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Decorus posted:I've spent the last two months (occasionally) painting a pair of battle robots, and I'm really proud of them. I tried for some sort of a retro colour scheme, like some old metal toy robot. Got maybe a bit too excited with the chipping on the arms, but they started out way too clean-looking compared to my army and I got kinda carried away. The bases turned out pretty nice too, my old style was a bit flat and cold. Turns out I only needed a sepia wash to add some warmth and shadows. Hell yeah you should be proud of them, those look sick. The chipping is nice and layered, giving a pretty realistic weathering to them. My one teeny tiny gripe is that there's a jarring lack of weathering on the feet, which seems like they would be the most beat up part of the robots as they've been kicking around in a very well put together rocky field (seriously good job on the bases).
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Oct 20, 2020 20:45
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Do inks need to be thinned at all to run them through an airbrush, and if so you just use regular acrylic thinner? Technically no, but you’ll absolutely want to. Coloured ink is super, super pigmented. It’s essentially pure colour. It’s not so much about thinning as diluting in this sense. The beauty of coloured ink is it’s so incredibly pure, a tiny bit can tint and alter the colours below to be more saturated, while not touching the highlighting and shadow work. It’s like a real life photoshop slider for hue and saturation. (That only goes up)
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Oct 20, 2020 20:51
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Mirthless posted:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01984G4SU/ Besides this airbrush kit, does anyone have a recommendation for other kits? I know there's one people like for the compressor itself that I would be interested in.
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Oct 20, 2020 20:53
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Winklebottom posted:
I kind of hope they keep both styles for when mine inevitably breaks. The new one seems maybe better for smaller or more slender hands. Maybe I'll try feeling one up on release.
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Oct 20, 2020 21:01
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I actually like that the Citadel painting handles have model holders with screw in bottoms so you could just get threaded rod from the hardware store and glue that into a wooden block or whatever for your own handle if you need a different sized one. It is a little too snug on 40mm bases so I agree with that
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Oct 20, 2020 21:08
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Yeast posted:How did they manage to make it look even more like a butt plug Jesus Christ. Just an excuse to raise the price on something that sold well, I suspect. We'll get a new design every year, each time slightly more butt plug shaped
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Oct 20, 2020 21:25
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jesus WEP posted:Liquitex (and Daler Rowney iirc) is very good at telling you if their inks are opaque or transparent or somewhere in between  Grizzled Patriarch posted:Do inks need to be thinned at all to run them through an airbrush, and if so you just use regular acrylic thinner? Personally I think inks should be thinned or have some flow improver added to them. Granted, they flow fine enough, but they tend to aggressively dry in my experience, so flow improver will retard the drying. Just beware that the mini will need more time between coats thanks to the flow improver. Lasting Damage fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Oct 20, 2020 |
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Oct 20, 2020 21:38
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Spanish Manlove posted:Hell yeah you should be proud of them, those look sick. The chipping is nice and layered, giving a pretty realistic weathering to them. My one teeny tiny gripe is that there's a jarring lack of weathering on the feet, which seems like they would be the most beat up part of the robots as they've been kicking around in a very well put together rocky field (seriously good job on the bases). Thanks! I noticed the lack of foot chipping while finishing the base, I'll probably add a bit more at some point. Thank you for immediately calling me out.   I'm planning on adding some dust effects with weathering pigment powders as well, if I ever manage to learn to apply a consistent layer of it. My test results are awful, I have no idea who to get a consistent thickness. Mixing powder and binder seems to result in completely random results, the wet mix is really translucent but dries into a thick and/or uneven layer.
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Oct 20, 2020 21:38
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Decorus posted:Thank you for immediately calling me out. Hahaha no worries dude, I come from a constructive criticism world. I just hope people would also let me know when I mess things up or what I should work on.
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Oct 20, 2020 21:54
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Everything that goes into your airbrush should have some amount of flow improver just to keep everything working smoothly. Past that it mostly comes down to what you're spraying and the effect you're going for. I will say though, I would always lead towards thinning it more, it's a lot easier to spray multiple layers and build up a smooth effect than it is to very carefully place a thicker layer. It's very rare I thin something less than 1:1, other than varnish/primer, and most stuff is thinned a LOT more than that.
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Oct 20, 2020 21:58
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100% agreed with cinara. I go as far as thinning my primer and varnish, though not as much as paints. It's extremely rare that I'm blasting something un-thinned
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Oct 20, 2020 22:28
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Cinara posted:Everything that goes into your airbrush should have some amount of flow improver just to keep everything working smoothly. Past that it mostly comes down to what you're spraying and the effect you're going for. I will say though, I would always lead towards thinning it more, it's a lot easier to spray multiple layers and build up a smooth effect than it is to very carefully place a thicker layer. It's very rare I thin something less than 1:1, other than varnish/primer, and most stuff is thinned a LOT more than that. Same. You want to build color gradually with an airbrush, harder to go back and fix something if you blast too much paint on a spot, so its better to err on the side of caution. All you lose is time.
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Oct 21, 2020 00:33
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Yep. Praise be to Flow Improver 
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Oct 21, 2020 00:41
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I was thinking about getting this ink set, since it comes with red, blue, yellow, brown, black, and white.Wanted to ask, though, since there are quite a few sets, including muted colors, and iridescent/metallic inks. The Liquitex Muted Green looks like it'd be good for Dark Angels, and I'm curious as to how the metallic inks might work.Verisimilidude posted:I managed to snag a bottle of Vallejo Metal Color (pale burnt metal, no steel or duralumin available T_T) just to test the properties of the paint. I quite like it, though it does act strangely. First, it seems to go on almost transparent and then becomes more opaque as it dries. This is odd at first but then is very appreciated later on, it feels like I need two coats but really I only need one. Second, it dries fairly quickly and very metallic, far more metal-like than regular metallic paints. The coverage is very flat and even, and it looks almost like I applied a chrome wash or something. Bucnasti posted:Yeah I’m really digging the metal color, I’ve only been able to get gun metal and burned metal though, nobody seems to have steel, silver or gold in stock. I've been wanting to try Vallejo Metal Color for some time now, since it sounds like it's pretty good. Unfortunately, Miniature Market (which is my go-to for buying minis and paints) also doesn't have it in stock. In general, it seems like a lot of stuff has been out of stock or unavailable since COVID hit. That's what seems nice about the inks; they seems pretty widely available, since you can get them from craft stores. I was meaning to put in an order to get some other metallic colors I don't have (brass, bronze, copper, etc.), though I don't know if I should just get Citadel brand (which is in stock) or wait for something else.
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Oct 21, 2020 03:53
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I managed to snag some vallejo aluminum and was going to just mix in some orange/red to make a copper colour, or is that not a good idea? I'd be just doing it with a regular brush, not an airbrush.
Dreylad fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Oct 21, 2020 |
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Oct 21, 2020 04:11
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Dreylad posted:I managed to snag some vallejo aluminum and was going to just mix in some orange/red to make a copper colour, or is that not a good idea? I'd be just doing it with a regular brush, not an airbrush. If you have contrast brown paints I’d recommend doing a layer of silver and then a layer of brown contrast. You end up with a very rich brass/bronze color depending on the contrast paint.
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Oct 21, 2020 04:33
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Verisimilidude posted:If you have contrast brown paints I’d recommend doing a layer of silver and then a layer of brown contrast. You end up with a very rich brass/bronze color depending on the contrast paint. Which brown? There's so many brownish contrast and I'd like to try that.
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Oct 21, 2020 04:46
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Dreylad posted:I managed to snag some vallejo aluminum and was going to just mix in some orange/red to make a copper colour, or is that not a good idea? I'd be just doing it with a regular brush, not an airbrush. Mixing regular paint into metallic can kill the metallic sheen. That's why Vallejo sells Metallic Medium so you can mix your own metallic colours!
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Oct 21, 2020 04:59
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If you want to mix colors in to make a colored metallic, you will need to then go back and highlight that with some of the base metal color to keep the shine feeling correct. Otherwise you will end up with a very dull looking metal.
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Oct 21, 2020 05:03
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Anyone getting covid bored and branching out at all? Printed and painted a blaster for my buddies dad for his Halloween wedding (good way to learn to use pigments and enamel). 
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Oct 21, 2020 05:12
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Which brown? There's so many brownish contrast and I'd like to try that. Snakebite Leather over a while metallic has worked nicely for me. These guys' golds are done that way: 
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Oct 21, 2020 07:48
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Cinara posted:Everything that goes into your airbrush should have some amount of flow improver just to keep everything working smoothly. Past that it mostly comes down to what you're spraying and the effect you're going for. I will say though, I would always lead towards thinning it more, it's a lot easier to spray multiple layers and build up a smooth effect than it is to very carefully place a thicker layer. It's very rare I thin something less than 1:1, other than varnish/primer, and most stuff is thinned a LOT more than that. The problem I always run into when I thin more is that I get spidering. How do you fix that? Do you lower the PSI? Or blow much less paint out?
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Oct 21, 2020 08:02
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Increase pressure, spray from further away, feather the nozzle more so you spray less at a time, don't focus the spray in one area too long
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Oct 21, 2020 08:28
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For spidering you want to decrease pressure, you can also spray from further and pull back on the needle less.
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Oct 21, 2020 09:39
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I'll try decreasing the pressure a little bit then, and apply better needle control then I guess. What's an optimal PSI? And does it change based on the needle size?
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Oct 21, 2020 09:57
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Honestly you just need to play with it to figure it out yourself. It depends on your airbrush, needle, paint, and what you mixed your paint with. Its a bit subjective like the 'consistency of milk' you hear when talking about paint thinning. It's totally possible to overthin your airbrush paints though, which compounds your spidering issues, but if you know what good already looks like you'll be able to adjust on the spot to compensate with a little trial and error.
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Oct 21, 2020 11:11
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there’s a lot to be said for keeping all your amazon boxes and using them to test spray. some people use their gloved hand but i find some old cardboard is way easier to test on
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Oct 21, 2020 11:32
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Which brown? There's so many brownish contrast and I'd like to try that. Over silver: Snakebite leather gives you a nice brass/gold. Skeleton horde gives you a warmer gold. Wyrdwood gives you a deep bronze, almost like the old tin bitz if you remember that color.
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Oct 21, 2020 12:33
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The central mechanic of the airbrush is that it atomizes the paint in mid-air and then the paint dries upon contact with the the painting surface. In order to achieve that you need the correct combination of air pressure, paint thickness and distance to the painting surface. As one of those three factors change the other two need to compensate. The real technical skill in airbrushing is balancing these factors to achieve the effect you want. Distance to the surface determines the size and density of your spray pattern, very close gives you a tight dense pattern, farther away gives you a larger lighter pattern. That increase or decrease in paint density requires a corresponding change to paint thickness and pressure to compensate. Spiderwebbing means the paint is not drying on contact. The pressure is too high relative to the thickness of the paint and the density of the spray. Speckling or splotching is the opposite, too low pressure relative to the paint thickness and spray density, so the paint doesn’t properly atomize or is drying in mid-air. This also increases dry tip. This is why nobody can tell you a specific psi or paint thickness to use because they are all relative to the situation you’re working at.
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Oct 21, 2020 13:06
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Dreylad posted:I managed to snag some vallejo aluminum and was going to just mix in some orange/red to make a copper colour, or is that not a good idea? I'd be just doing it with a regular brush, not an airbrush. Going over the aluminum with a translucent red/orange tint would work better I think. I haven't messed with coloring VMC itself, but I'd think the silvery metal medium would look off where yellow metallics usually have their mica flakes colored likewise.
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Oct 21, 2020 13:36
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Question for the thread: I saw this piece of art a while ago, and it gave the idea to see if I could replicate it in miniature form. What would I need to buy to replicate this? At first, I thought the marine was a Dark Angel Company Veteran because of the robes, but the helmet and collar makes it looks like a Primaris Marine. The DA Primaris Lieutenant Zakariah seems like it work, but it doesn't have a head that's a helmet with a hood. More importantly, where can I buy cat/kitten minis? 
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Oct 21, 2020 15:02
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Thanks to everyone for the advice about mixing/not mixing VMC. I'll go the glaze route (and go back to highlight if need be) since I want a orangey copper.
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Oct 21, 2020 15:13
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Max Wilco posted:More importantly, where can I buy cat/kitten minis? https://badsquiddogames.com/shop#!/Kitties-8/p/82813462/category=21735086
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Oct 21, 2020 16:15
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Ok these guys rule, I totally wanna figure out what to do with a pigeon set and a bear https://badsquiddogames.com/shop#!/Pigeontopia-Bundle/p/176743773/category=21735086&forcescroll=true https://badsquiddogames.com/shop#!/Barry-Brown-Bear/p/77407103/category=21735086&forcescroll=true
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Oct 21, 2020 16:47
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Max Wilco posted:Question for the thread: I saw this piece of art a while ago, and it gave the idea to see if I could replicate it in miniature form. Use the LT you mentioned, but with a normal Mark X helmet and greenstuff the hood for it.
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Oct 21, 2020 16:53
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Top-Right is an literal hitlercatte. 
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Oct 21, 2020 16:59
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Only thing about those that puts me off is that they're metal, and I've not worked with metal models before. Still, those look pretty good. I did a search for '28mm cats', and I found these 3D printed ones from a place called Bow and Blade Games. There's also this free Thingiverse upload of 28mm cats, though I don't have a 3D printer.
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Oct 21, 2020 17:18
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Max Wilco posted:Only thing about those that puts me off is that they're metal, and I've not worked with metal models before. Still, those look pretty good. The biggest difference between metal and plastic is assembly which isn't required here. Prime and paint are basically the same.
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Oct 21, 2020 17:39
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Schadenboner posted:Top-Right is an literal hitlercatte. Um, actually, the correct term is kitler.
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Oct 21, 2020 17:56
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