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Z the IVth posted:Unless you have a surfeit of time and are somehow working a minimum wage job (an unlikely combination) just buying the miniatures from GW will probably work out easier and cheaper. I've tried telling them that, because 40k is a lot of models and I don't know how long this thing takes to print one but it can't possibly be an efficient way to play. They like the aesthetic of 40k but have never played it. The one is convinced that "since it's point buy we can just print one squad to see how it plays" and I'm fairly certain that's not actually a valid strategy to learn anything
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Oct 25, 2020 14:51
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I'm sorry that your friends are dumb, if it's any consolation I have the same problem
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Oct 25, 2020 14:58
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smug jeebus posted:I'm sorry that your friends are dumb, if it's any consolation I have the same problem They're so incredibly dumb "I just really want to play a miniature game" well we have 6 factions of units from warmachine/hordes from when me and a different friend picked that up a decade ago. Let's just play that because it's free Hell one of the factions was bought by the Single Squad guy and then sold to the friend who did play. In conclusion I'll have a 4 for $4
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Oct 25, 2020 15:01
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I can see a use case for printers in certain GW games, specifically the skirmish ones like necromunda or gorkamorka. Small squads to start with, and if you're using the campaign rules they change frequently between matches as characters lose limbs, gain scars, and upgrade weapons. It fits the output of a printer way better than a full-size wargame since you only make a dozen models to start with and then do another couple after every major event. Plus there is the option of making lots of wacky ork vehicles! Another use case would be some some truly authentic battletech, where you use soldering irons and side clippers on the 'mechs as they're damaged like the creators did in the original game demos.
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Oct 25, 2020 16:35
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It takes me 5 hours (of waiting) to resin print a unit of 10 ork boyz. Another hour to clean them all. Total material cost? Maybe $3 for the lot. Yes, it takes some effort but you get cool unique looking models.
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Oct 25, 2020 16:50
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chin up everything sucks posted:It takes me 5 hours (of waiting) to resin print a unit of 10 ork boyz. Another hour to clean them all. Total material cost? Maybe $3 for the lot. What printer do you use? We're throwing in on a Anycubic Photon the model that came out in 2020
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Oct 25, 2020 16:58
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chin up everything sucks posted:It takes me 5 hours (of waiting) to resin print a unit of 10 ork boyz. Another hour to clean them all. Total material cost? Maybe $3 for the lot. This is true, but I've been looking into casting lately and it feels like the move if you wanted to crack them out.
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Oct 25, 2020 16:59
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chin up everything sucks posted:It takes me 5 hours (of waiting) to resin print a unit of 10 ork boyz. Another hour to clean them all. Total material cost? Maybe $3 for the lot. Don't forget the time taken to sort out supports, or the extra cost for getting presupported models. How sturdy is actual printer if you're going to run it wholesale. I don't actually know if the print plates degrade. For skirmish games (and 6mm) 3D printing is perfect, I'm still not convinced that 3D printing entire 28mm armies when you can buy high quality plastics is worth the effort.
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Oct 25, 2020 17:11
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Yeah, I've considered a 3D printer, but talked myself out of it; My personal use case for it would be mainly printing bits (alternate heads, weapons, assorted basing bits and gribble for sticking on terrain) and a few fun models which... Would definitely be cool. But not "drop a couple of hundred quid and a fair few hours learning to use it and let it take up semi-permanent space in your house" cool.
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Oct 25, 2020 17:41
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3D printed stuff is either low detail or fragile. or am i wrong?
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Oct 25, 2020 17:57
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SiKboy posted:Yeah, I've considered a 3D printer, but talked myself out of it; My personal use case for it would be mainly printing bits (alternate heads, weapons, assorted basing bits and gribble for sticking on terrain) and a few fun models which... Would definitely be cool. But not "drop a couple of hundred quid and a fair few hours learning to use it and let it take up semi-permanent space in your house" cool. That's the best part, it's being split 6 ways and isn't taking up space in my house
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Oct 25, 2020 17:57
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I have an Elegoo Mars Pro resin printer - I used it for the unicycle ork I posted a few pages back. Auto-support software is improving, it only takes me a few minutes per part to get it all nicely done.
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Oct 25, 2020 18:06
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Nebalebadingdong posted:3D printed stuff is either low detail or fragile. or am i wrong? Wrong on both counts these days. I had a model knocked onto the floor from 5ft up, it came out undamaged. Brittle resins exist, but you have to go out of your way to buy one.
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Oct 25, 2020 18:07
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Nebalebadingdong posted:3D printed stuff is either low detail or fragile. or am i wrong? The more-common PLA (and other plastics) printers were definitely lower quality/had those striation lines, but the tech has become much much better in the last couple years - the new resin printers in particular have some exceptional detail. This was shared by someone else here in TG a while ago but they're getting really good/affordable:
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Oct 25, 2020 18:22
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Len posted:That's the best part, it's being split 6 ways and isn't taking up space in my house Yeah, I'd be all over 1/6th share of a printer that someone else would store (and have to put up with any fumes).
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Oct 25, 2020 18:27
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So, I've been 3D printing about 2-3 months now, and I love it. Here's some tips: - Use water-washable resin. It's slightly more expensive but easier to clean up (it's hard to get 95% isopropyl alcohol due to the pandemic, the hospitals need that stuff more than you do) - Rough estimate 3-5 hours to print 6 minis (8 if they have a small footprint which 40k minis usually don't) depending on how well you angle them. The taller the mini the longer the print time. - 10-30 or so minutes for cleaning up, support removal, filing, etc. You want to do this before you cure the minis, while they're still a little soft. It makes hiding the support attachment points easy. - Allow 30-60 minutes of drying time before putting minis under a UV light. Possibly more if they have a lot of pockets that might trap water. You can speed this up by wrapping just-printed minis in a paper towel after you scrub/rinse them. Water will discolor the surface and could damage the print as any resin particles still in the water will cling to the mini. Washing in Isopropyl alcohol makes the drying time shorter but again, hospitals need all the IPA they can get, so get the water washable resin. It's much easier to clean up if there's an accident so it's a good investment. - When you're just starting out, try to make sure none of the minis' rafts (the bits the supports attach to the build plate with) are touching. If you notice a bunch of failures on one side of the build plate, your plate's miscalibrated. If everything or most everything fails, you probably didn't have enough supports. Once you're comfortable with calibrating your printer you can start putting minis closer together. - Try to avoid getting UV resin on your bare skin if at all possible. If there is an accident, stop whatever you're doing and wash it off immediately with warm soapy water before you resume working. Or scrub it with isopropyl alcohol if you still haven't taken my advice and didn't get the water-washable resin. - Resin gets hot enough to cause a serious burn when it cures, if there's enough of it. Even if you don't think you got any on your gloves, it's still a good idea to wash them off before sticking your hands under a UV lamp. - Watch the Crafsman's video on cleaning up failed 3D prints, it's mostly great. I did not personally find lubricating the FEP film helpful (it reduces the amount of UV the film lets through) but sanding the build plate can definitely help if you're getting a lot of failures. The rougher the build plate the better your rafts will stick to it (and the harder it'll be to pry things off of it) - Resin minis are brittle compared to plastic (especially if they're over cured), but a lot of their fragility depends on what angle they were printed at. If they do break they tend to break cleanly along their print layers so gluing them back together is usually pretty easy provided you recover all the pieces. Laying a model down makes it stronger than printing it upright (since the print layers will stretch the length of the mini). Wherever possible print at a 30-60 degree angle for best results. Most pre-supported minis will do this already. PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Oct 25, 2020 |
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Oct 25, 2020 18:28
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SiKboy posted:Yeah, I've considered a 3D printer, but talked myself out of it; My personal use case for it would be mainly printing bits (alternate heads, weapons, assorted basing bits and gribble for sticking on terrain) and a few fun models which... Would definitely be cool. But not "drop a couple of hundred quid and a fair few hours learning to use it and let it take up semi-permanent space in your house" cool. The space is probably the biggest sticking point these days. They're not that expensive and the elegoo mars mentioned is both cheap and very well reviewed. Think you will need semi secure location as well if you have pets/kids running about due to all the chemicals you'll need to sling around. If I could figure out a setup for one I would buy an Elegoo Mars in a heartbeat. Just not to print an army.
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Oct 25, 2020 18:46
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Printed and painted this in an elagoo mars. Honestly, I think 3d printing is going to overtake casted models in a lot of ways. No mold lines is a huge deal. Made this on mine and I'm kinda blown away. Big disadvantage is time, but this cost maybe $1 in resin and the file was $4. Elagoo mars pro 
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Oct 26, 2020 04:02
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wrong thread i know
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Oct 26, 2020 20:35
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w00tmonger posted:Printed and painted this in an elagoo mars. Honestly, I think 3d printing is going to overtake casted models in a lot of ways. No mold lines is a huge deal. this owns
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Oct 26, 2020 23:40
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Nebalebadingdong posted:wrong thread i know  I love all the cults from Warcry, and this is a great take on those poor, slow boys.
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Oct 27, 2020 04:49
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Moola posted:this owns This means a lot coming from the threads resident skeleton
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Oct 27, 2020 04:52
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Nebalebadingdong posted:wrong thread i know I couldn't slam the follow button any harder on this dudes Instagram when this popped up on my feed.
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Oct 27, 2020 16:40
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Link to their insta
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Oct 27, 2020 21:54
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 someone brought their tomb kings to the real pyramids kinda funny but i dunno seems kinda tacky
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Oct 27, 2020 22:08
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Nebalebadingdong posted:
The pyramids are in a suburb
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Oct 27, 2020 22:33
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hypnophant posted:The pyramids are in a suburb 
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Oct 27, 2020 22:56
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they look more suburb-adjacent to me
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Oct 27, 2020 23:44
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They're in constant danger of being surrounded. Cairo is a monster city.
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Oct 27, 2020 23:54
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probably shouldn't have built them so close to the suburbs then!
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Oct 28, 2020 01:04
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Man, nobody wants to lug stone further from the river than they have to.
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Oct 28, 2020 01:09
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Nebalebadingdong posted:
that they're all old models makes this cool and rad actually.
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Oct 28, 2020 01:19
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Nebalebadingdong posted:
Khnum Khufu is rolling around in his grave.
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Oct 28, 2020 01:28
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nimbys goin nuts over the construction
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Oct 28, 2020 01:32
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Big Willy Style posted:Link to their insta https://instagram.com/_epicduck?igshid=khklri62xw36
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Oct 28, 2020 06:38
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Thanks
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Oct 28, 2020 08:57
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Cat Face Joe posted:nimbys goin nuts over the construction The dead walk the earth once more to register their objection with the planning office to the proposed block of flats that will overlook their back dunes. I do love/hate that Cairo has extended around the pyramids but left one angle clear towards the desert for tourists to take nice pictures.
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Oct 28, 2020 17:01
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never considered painting pit hair on my minis why not try some black grass tufts???
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Oct 28, 2020 20:17
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The old heroquest minis are the best part of that game
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Oct 28, 2020 20:26
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The necromancer is the best bad guy mini ever. When playing DnD, it's excellent shorthand for telling my players who the main bad guy is.
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Oct 28, 2020 20:41
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