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E: You know what, I'm too old to argue with goons about home theater. If it works for you, go for it and chill out. E2: I read up on it, and I think you're right, although in practice there's no difference when the speakers are set to "small". Congratulations 
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Oct 20, 2020 23:14
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KozmoNaut posted:E: You know what, I'm too old to argue with goons about home theater. If it works for you, go for it and chill out. lmao
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Oct 21, 2020 13:34
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FilthyImp posted:That's the best way to ensure the shield is sending the audio you want, sure. Ok here my learnings. 1. Check your plex playback to ensure it is not transcoding the audio. It’s under playback info when playing a video. 2. Plug your device into the sound bar. 3. Have pass through on. My plex is saying it’s sending Dolby atoms, it’s loving insane. Like a movie theater.
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Oct 21, 2020 16:36
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My home theater is in the basement and the furnace room is right next to it. Basically the only thing separating them is a panel of sheet rock and some 2x4 studs. Whenever the furnace kicks in, you can hear it run loudly in the home theater room. Would putting something like acoustic foam panels in the furnace room help prevent the sound from leaking into the home theater room? I'm thinking of getting these and basically gluing them to the furnace room sheetrock. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VL5HCP8?pf_rd_r=39X7WA73GV95GAP5R7GJ&pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee  instagram download foto
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Oct 22, 2020 01:18
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The Grey posted:My home theater is in the basement and the furnace room is right next to it. Basically the only thing separating them is a panel of sheet rock and some 2x4 studs. Whenever the furnace kicks in, you can hear it run loudly in the home theater room. I know it’s probably a long shot, but might want to check the flammability if they’re going to be right next to a furnace. Otherwise, they will probably help, but for sound isolation you really want mass. Concrete is ideal. Sheetrock is pretty dense stuff, actually, especially if you do a couple layers. Plywood. Plywood covered with heavy carpet. I would think for 30 bucks a square foot you could do better than those squares.
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Oct 22, 2020 01:42
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BigFactory posted:I know it’s probably a long shot, but might want to check the flammability if they’re going to be right next to a furnace. They are actually 12 to a pack, so it comes out to $2.50 per square foot. The website says they are fireproof, but who knows if that's trustworthy. Plywood is an interesting idea I can check into.
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Oct 22, 2020 01:51
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The Grey posted:They are actually 12 to a pack, so it comes out to $2.50 per square foot. The website says they are fireproof, but who knows if that's trustworthy. Plywood is an interesting idea I can check into. Ok that’s much more reasonable. Still, you might be able to do better with more conventional materials. Edit: so a 3x5 sheet of hardieboard at Home Depot is $15, and you might be able to find it cheaper. That’s $1 a square foot and I’m fairly confident it would outperform the foam. BigFactory fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Oct 22, 2020 |
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Oct 22, 2020 01:55
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You may be SOL to completely eliminate HVAC noise since it will carry through the ducts. That said, a dual layer of drywall will perform way better than foam, and a dual layer of drywall on a channel system or a staggered stud wall will do even better. 1” foam panels like that are really only effective for breaking up high frequencies within the room itself.
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Oct 22, 2020 02:35
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If you have a lot of money check out vacuum insulation panels, they should in theory be good but I am more aware of them for thermal insulation.
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Oct 22, 2020 09:55
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I have a Soundproofing Solutions book from Rothoblaas in my office and when building something to be as acoustically quiet as possible inside a normal building they were using 24 layers of various materials between floor slabs and wall joints. Here's their 'best' wall setup, literally just a dividing wall between rooms. This doesn't go into how it has been fixed floor to ceiling (they're heavy into the use of varying hardnesses of rubber between joints). 1 Plasterboard panel 12.5mm 2 SILENT WALL (basically the Dynamat car soundproofing stuff) 4mm 3 Plasterboard panel 12.5mm 4 Solid wood batten 60mm 5 low density mineral wool insulation (sits between the battens) 60mm 6 Cross Laminated Timber 100mm 7 low density mineral wool insulation (sits between the battens) 60mm 8 Solid wood batten 60mm 9 Plasterboard panel 12.5mm 10 SILENT WALL 4mm 11 Plasterboard panel 12.5mm In the book they're saying this is good for a 59db reduction in sound transfer but note it's also nearly a foot thick... Doing poo poo properly is a massive undertaking but you can certainly steal the general idea of this. The double plasterboard with a layer of dynamat between them mounted to solid battens and wool insulation shouldn't be too expensive to do and would certainly help. The issue is the fact that it's ducted everywhere and that's going to transfer sound. They have a bunch of papers on their site under technical insights: https://www.rothoblaas.com Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 13:39 on Oct 22, 2020 |
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Oct 22, 2020 13:36
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Olympic Mathlete posted:I have a Soundproofing Solutions book from Rothoblaas in my office and when building something to be as acoustically quiet as possible inside a normal building they were using 24 layers of various materials between floor slabs and wall joints. For just the ceiling, you can do almost as well with just a drop ceiling and really nice acoustic tiles. You can achieve pretty much the same results by just having a sealed room within a room, inner walls isolated. You lose just a little less space and use like 1/3 the materials. The Grey posted:My home theater is in the basement and the furnace room is right next to it. Basically the only thing separating them is a panel of sheet rock and some 2x4 studs. Whenever the furnace kicks in, you can hear it run loudly in the home theater room. Those won't do poo poo. What you need is soundproofing, what those are is acoustic treatments meant to prevent some sound reverberation but those don't even do a half decent job. You're better off with just framed batts of Roxul covered in acoustically transparent cloth.
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Oct 23, 2020 07:27
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qirex posted:Sony Cores are a solid bet. Maybe also look at Jamo S 803, Q Acoustics 3010, Wavecrest HVL-1, RSL CG-3 or Micca MB42X. If you could push your budget a bit these are a good deal. This is from over a year ago, but I've been looking for deals on and off, and just as I was about to pull the trigger on the Canton GLE 420, I searched Craigslist on a whim and found a pair of Canton Chrono 502 for $275. While I was at it, I bought an Aiyima A07 which is a TPA 3255 amp (I probably could have stuck with the 2020, but new toy energy) It sounds loving amazing.
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Oct 25, 2020 15:18
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Happiness Commando posted:This is from over a year ago, but I've been looking for deals on and off, and just as I was about to pull the trigger on the Canton GLE 420, I searched Craigslist on a whim and found a pair of Canton Chrono 502 for $275. While I was at it, I bought an Aiyima A07 which is a TPA 3255 amp (I probably could have stuck with the 2020, but new toy energy) Speaker bros  These things rule, I’ve had my 502.2s for 3 years and am still perfectly happy. I want to thank whoever at AC4L cut a deal with them because they’re basically unknown in the US.
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Oct 25, 2020 20:40
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qirex posted:Speaker bros I wish there was a place like rtings for speakers. With TVs, it's nice to know that spending more on a QLED TV will get you less in comparison to an OLED. With speakers, it seems like every manufacturer has a speaker for every budget, and it's not easy to figure out what's worth it.
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Oct 25, 2020 23:25
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Residency Evil posted:I wish there was a place like rtings for speakers. With TVs, it's nice to know that spending more on a QLED TV will get you less in comparison to an OLED. With speakers, it seems like every manufacturer has a speaker for every budget, and it's not easy to figure out what's worth it. There's so much product I think it would be hard for a group to do. Plus in the end it all comes down to what sounds the best subjectively per person, so there's only so far the written reviews will get you.
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Oct 26, 2020 02:26
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Yeah, speaker tuning is both subjective and highly room dependent. It’s tricky overall but if you stick to good brands you’ll probably do alright. Once you’ve owned a few different models you’ll get a feeling for what you prefer. Very few companies make outright bad speakers nowadays, there some niche companies that definitely have a super distinct house sound like Tekton, Zu, Ohm, etc. that I’d say would need auditioning but most conventional-looking speakers will be safe starting points.
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Oct 26, 2020 02:54
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Listerine posted:There's so much product I think it would be hard for a group to do. Plus in the end it all comes down to what sounds the best subjectively per person, so there's only so far the written reviews will get you. qirex posted:Yeah, speaker tuning is both subjective and highly room dependent. It’s tricky overall but if you stick to good brands you’ll probably do alright. Once you’ve owned a few different models you’ll get a feeling for what you prefer. Very few companies make outright bad speakers nowadays, there some niche companies that definitely have a super distinct house sound like Tekton, Zu, Ohm, etc. that I’d say would need auditioning but most conventional-looking speakers will be safe starting points. Yeah, I get that, but unfortunately it seems like the choices are either: 1) Go to a local dealer to audition some speakers in their room (which is not your house) and buy them there 2) Gamble on some internet speakers Auditioning multiple pairs of speakers at home is time consuming and impractical for most people. It seems like most speaker buying comes down to figuring out what your budget is and then finding speakers that cost exactly that. There are few ways to determine whether a pair of speakers that costs $1500 is better than the pair that costs $2000 or vice versa. I want to get a pair of mains/center channel. Do I just go to B&W/Polk/Elac/Paradigm and call it a day?
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Oct 26, 2020 17:33
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Residency Evil posted:There are few ways to determine whether a pair of speakers that costs $1500 is better than the pair that costs $2000 or vice versa. That's the beauty of audiophilia, the more money you spend, the better it is! This is why you can spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on audio gear, it's hundreds of thousands of times better than low end stuff. If I were potentially spending thousands and it wasn't pocket change I'd take my time and audition speakers, personally. Any shop worth their salt will let you borrow stuff to take home and listen to for a week or so and this is why actually hitting up an audio shop is worthwhile.
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Oct 26, 2020 17:54
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My requirements are atmos and 4k upscaling, I don't need fancy network features or multizone. The Sony str dn1080 is my best value option?
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Oct 26, 2020 18:23
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Pretty much nobody buys the six figure speakers, they're just there to make the ten to fifty thousand dollar ones look more reasonable. I used to hang out with a guy who worked at a machine shop that did manufacturing for Magico and he said they only made enough parts for the high end speakers to make a few pairs of them, probably all touring models for trade shows. The 1000-2000/pair range is super crowded, probably because that's the point where manufacturers can start making actual margin on them as opposed to Pioneer who probably makes  on every pair of those little Andrew Jones bookshelves [which I don't like much personally]. It's also the point where you want to do actual research like in-home listening. Most of the internet brands have home trials and in my opinion if you have access to a local shop they can be cool and worth the sales tax/lack of discounts, as long as you don't borrow 4 sets of speakers then turn around and buy on the internet. Some are not cool though and only really want to talk to tweakos who buy cable risers or home installers so try to find out first.
qirex fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Oct 26, 2020 |
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Oct 26, 2020 18:28
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CancerCakes posted:My requirements are atmos and 4k upscaling, I don't need fancy network features or multizone. The Sony str dn1080 is my best value option?
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Oct 26, 2020 18:32
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Some of the online retailers have excellent return policies too. I ordered a pair of Wharfedales from Crutchfield and decided that I didn’t want to keep them after a month. Return shipping was only $10.
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Oct 26, 2020 18:37
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Plenty of TV sets introduce lag when upscaling. RTings is the only site I have seen reliably measure input lag and tests high refresh rates on TVs as well.
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Oct 26, 2020 18:44
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qirex posted:Pretty much nobody buys the six figure speakers, they're just there to make the ten to fifty thousand dollar ones look more reasonable. I used to hang out with a guy who worked at a machine shop that did manufacturing for Magico and he said they only made enough parts for the high end speakers to make a few pairs of them, probably all touring models for trade shows. Fair enough. All I really want is two fronts and a center channel to pair with my HSU sub for home theater. Is 2k a "good enough" budget to get something decent, or is that still in the realm of Pioneer?
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Oct 26, 2020 19:38
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Residency Evil posted:Fair enough. All I really want is two fronts and a center channel to pair with my HSU sub for home theater. Is 2k a "good enough" budget to get something decent, or is that still in the realm of Pioneer?
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Oct 26, 2020 20:19
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qirex posted:What I was trying to say is you're spoiled for choice, there are almost too many good speakers. At that price point You're looking at Klipsch RP, KEF Q [or even refurb LS50s if you have a decent receiver], B&W, Wharfedale, Martin Logan, maybe even entry level Revel or Dynaudios. If you want to be like Happiness Commando and I you could go Canton [those are actually better than ours]. And that's just scratching the surface. I'm a big fan of my Ascend Acoustics products after a recommendation from this thread, I have the Sierra-2EX which are fantastic. If you're in the LA area you can make an appointment to listen to their products onsite- well, in normal days, not sure if they allow that with the pandemic.
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Oct 26, 2020 20:57
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qirex posted:Pretty much nobody buys the six figure speakers, they're just there to make the ten to fifty thousand dollar ones look more reasonable. I used to hang out with a guy who worked at a machine shop that did manufacturing for Magico and he said they only made enough parts for the high end speakers to make a few pairs of them, probably all touring models for trade shows. qirex posted:What I was trying to say is you're spoiled for choice, there are almost too many good speakers. At that price point You're looking at Klipsch RP, KEF Q [or even refurb LS50s if you have a decent receiver], B&W, Wharfedale, Martin Logan, maybe even entry level Revel or Dynaudios. If you want to be like Happiness Commando and I you could go Canton [those are actually better than ours]. And that's just scratching the surface. Oh hey, this place is local-ish to me and has those Magico speakers you mentioned! https://www.overtureav.com/brands/speakers/floor-standing-speakers/magico/magico-q7-mark-ii/ 
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Oct 26, 2020 21:17
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Residency Evil posted:Oh hey, this place is local-ish to me and has those Magico speakers you mentioned! Brands they have that are cool and good and not the price of a cheap house: Focal, B&W, Paradigm, Martin Logan, maybe Sonus Faber or Triad on a stretch. E: I notice they take trade-ins, might be worth a call to see what they have qirex fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Oct 26, 2020 |
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Oct 26, 2020 21:35
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Man, between episodes of Big Little Lies (getting rowdy tonight) my TV froze in the app, but hitting home on the remote got me out. Now apps won’t transmit sound to my speakers from my TV at all! It’s not muted, it’s the right input, the cables are in, the speakers play through other inputs and I’ve turned everything off. Still no sound from the apps! It does make little boops from remote buttons on the tv input. Anyone have an idea? Bad cable? This would be 1 bad out of the box and another bad two months in. It was just weird that the app froze, then there was a problem. Thanks for any help! Will swap out cables tomorrow.
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Oct 28, 2020 02:19
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Physically power cycle the TV by unplugging the power to it?
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Oct 28, 2020 13:08
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qirex posted:What I was trying to say is you're spoiled for choice, there are almost too many good speakers. At that price point You're looking at Klipsch RP, KEF Q [or even refurb LS50s if you have a decent receiver], B&W, Wharfedale, Martin Logan, maybe even entry level Revel or Dynaudios. If you want to be like Happiness Commando and I you could go Canton [those are actually better than ours]. And that's just scratching the surface. qirex posted:Brands they have that are cool and good and not the price of a cheap house: Focal, B&W, Paradigm, Martin Logan, maybe Sonus Faber or Triad on a stretch. This is super helpful, thanks. Those Cantons look great, although unfortunately I have a feeling my wife wouldn't go with the bright white cabinets. When you say "scratching the surface," do you mean that Canton should be something I take a look at? Like I said, I currently have a 2.1 system with an old pair of 2-way speakers I built for $500 back in 2005 and a Hsu sub. Finally getting 3 good speakers for the front and a new receiver seems like a good natural upgrade.
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Oct 28, 2020 14:33
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WTF makes a speaker $229k? What is the value proposition they're pushing other than "you have unlimited money and this one is the best because it's this expensive, obviously." What's the margin on that? Also I've had C-series Energy speakers since 2008. What sort of price point would I be looking at for a meaningful upgrade and what would I be gaining? I bought them without hearing them and I've never really heard other speakers outside of a movie theater or the crazy expensive ones at Best Buy. KingKapalone fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Oct 28, 2020 |
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Oct 28, 2020 14:33
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KingKapalone posted:WTF makes a speaker $229k? What is the value proposition they're pushing other than "you have unlimited money and this one is the best because it's this expensive, obviously." What's the margin on that? KingKapalone posted:Also I've had C-series Energy speakers since 2008. What sort of price point would I be looking at for a meaningful upgrade and what would I be gaining? I bought them without hearing them and I've never really heard other speakers outside of a movie theater or the crazy expensive ones at Best Buy.
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Oct 28, 2020 16:49
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Sorry, it's the C-500 towers, the C-C100 center, and C-100 surrounds. Just added some Micca M-8c heights too. I also have a BIC America VK-12 sub from the same time.
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Oct 28, 2020 17:38
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Magico makes objectively good speakers — they measure extremely well and would be considered very neutral. The issue is that the same objective level of performance can be obtained for far less. Also, the owner, Alon Wolf, is a self-aggrandizing jackass. But ya, their very top of the line stuff, like the M9 for $750,000, exist to draw attention to the brand, with the added benefit of selling a handful to Asian billionaires.
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Oct 28, 2020 21:35
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The best system I every heard was priced north of $200k, but there was a good chunk of snake oil, like in the cables for example. The mains were some seriously expensive Sonus Faber floorstanding model. But I doubt I could tell the difference between that and a $10k system. At some point the price premium for such small increments in the sound quality doesn't make sense. Also holy crap I just looked up Sonus Faber's collection and the Aida line clocks in at 363 pounds each.
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Oct 29, 2020 00:21
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Previously in this thread I complained about the lack of soundbars that feature HDMI Pass-through, but that was because HDMI-ARC didn't work well with my old TV and created noticeable audio lag. My new TV doesn't, so can anyone recommend a soundbar that: 1. Is $250 or less, but not the cheapest options either. 2. Does NOT come with or rely on a separate subwoofer for low end. This is for a bedroom in an apartment. My understanding is that most soundbars that come paired with a subwoofer only have tweeters and midrange speakers in the bar and rely on the subwoofer to fill in the low end. Is this correct? 3. Has some sort of LED panel on it (otherwise most TVs remove the numbers when adjusting volume and you have to guess what level its at) 4. Has the ability to at least adjust treble and bass. Many bars just have a handful of equalizer presets. Even worse, some have nothing. This one is frustratingly rare and it should not be. 5. Has HDMI-ARC. Based on some recommendations I tried this: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/vizio-m-series-2-1-channel-all-in-one-sound-bar-system-dark-charcoal/6416783.p?skuId=6416783 and it was almost perfect. The sound quality in this thing was amazing for its size and price. However, there was noticeable audio lag no matter what configuration, even when feeding audio directly to the bar from a device with HDMI pass-through or Optical. Then I returned it and tried this, which I had seen recommended in various places: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/yamaha-2-1-channel-soundbar-with-3-subwoofers-with-alexa-black/6358598.p?skuId=6358598 and it had the worst sound quality I've ever heard from a soundbar. Worse than my TV's built-in speakers. Just loud, boomy, flat, and muddy.
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Oct 29, 2020 23:01
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A 3” driver can’t even be a proper midrange driver let alone a “subwoofer.”
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Oct 30, 2020 01:58
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I got a hold of some pioneer subwoofer (the s-fcrw210-k) and a trashy old Yamaha receiver (htr-630) from the literal garbage. It seems like they work. I’m currently looking to upgrade my DJ and light music production sound system of 2 cheap rear end Mackie CR3-3 garbage monitors. Any recommendations/advice for finding speakers at around 100-200 bucks total for this receiver/sub combo? There are endless used old speakers on Craigslist and kijiji at that price point and it’s kind overwhelming, lots of old Canadian stuff that doesn’t have shot turn up on google. I will be listening to/playing exclusively house music pretty much.
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Nov 1, 2020 18:57
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I'm sick of buying all-in-one 5.1 surround sound systems for my PC where one component breaks and the whole thing is shot, so i'd like to upgrade to a home theater type system with front and back speakers, subwoofer, and receiver, so I can keep using my desktop for music and movies and games and so forth. Does this thread have any particular recommendations? I'd posted in this thread first: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3444077&pagenumber=42#post509699392 but they directed me here instead. Particularly looking for receiver recommendations, ideally a small one that can fit on my desk.
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Nov 7, 2020 04:17
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