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cool, thank you. FlamingLiberal posted:Yes just good luck finding either of them haha yeah, i'd love to get one before christmas but especially in canada i'm not getting my hopes up. maybe the scalpers will turn their attention to the new consoles.
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Oct 29, 2020 23:34
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So lately my PC has really not been working. The best way I can describe it is, is that the PC never "fully" turns on. Like, the lights inside the case will glow and a couple of the fans will turn on, but nothing else happens. My monitors, things plugged into USB like my keyboard, nothing else turns on. If I play around with the PC and turn it on and off enough times, eventually I can get it to turn "all the way" on. But even then, if I put it to sleep and try to start it up it will often crash necessitating a restart and we're back to where we were. At this point I think the problem is the Power Supply. Now most of the parts in my PC are like, nearly 10 years old now besides the GPU and SSD. So I'm not really SURPRISED, and I have wanted to build a new PC and this is a great excuse. But I'm not sure if I'm ready to spend all the money needed right now on a new PC (I'd LIKE to build a new PC under a grand that could play Cyberpunk "well" (meaning something like, 1080p60 on High settings) as a general benchmark, but I don't know if that's feasible). So my options, I think, are: -Wait until I buy all the parts for this new PC and build a new one -Just buy the new PSU NOW, replace my old one in my current PC. Then when the time comes to buy parts for my new PC, I already have the Power Supply. Now I feel like replacing the Power Supply is never recommended. I don't see a lot of people talk about it. So... I guess my question is, IS it feasible to replace a PSU? And should I even bother, and is it even worth the effort over waiting and just building a new PC? Here are the specs of my current PC: Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520 Bronze 520W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply Motherboard: MSI P67A-G45 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge Quad-Core 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W BX80623I52500K Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 3000 GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 WINDFORCE OC 6G (GV-N1060WF2OC-6GD) RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL Hard Drive: Samsung 1TB SSD (Can't get exact model number right now)
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Oct 30, 2020 00:34
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DrDork posted:Given the cost difference, though, you can make a valid argument for a 3070 now, and in two years when it's starting to drag and the 4000/7000 series or whatever the next gen of cards will be called drop, you can flip the 3070 for ~$350, take the $200 you already saved, and buy another card that'll be faster than the 3080, if you're feeling your 3070 is not keeping up. Seriously, I bought my 1070 like four years ago for roughly $330 and now from looking at used prices I could easily get $200 for it. Not that it's a huge factor overall but the value over time seems high with that tier SLI didn't magically get better recently did it? Buying a second 1070 is not actually smart right?
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Oct 30, 2020 00:55
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SLI is deader than a particularly dead squirrel.
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Oct 30, 2020 01:07
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Wowporn posted:SLI didn't magically get better recently did it? Buying a second 1070 is not actually smart right? SLI is 110% dead and even NVidia is telling people to stop doing it. You literally can't SLI any Ampere card other than the 3090, and NVidia won't be releasing any more SLI profiles. So it'll be 100% on game developers to implement it, which...isn't going to happen.
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Oct 30, 2020 01:07
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DrDork posted:I don't think NVidia has ever said anything about when cards are going to be dropped? Some retailers have, but that's on them.
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Oct 30, 2020 01:11
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Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:So lately my PC has really not been working. The best way I can describe it is, is that the PC never "fully" turns on. Like, the lights inside the case will glow and a couple of the fans will turn on, but nothing else happens. My monitors, things plugged into USB like my keyboard, nothing else turns on. If I play around with the PC and turn it on and off enough times, eventually I can get it to turn "all the way" on. But even then, if I put it to sleep and try to start it up it will often crash necessitating a restart and we're back to where we were. Next time it acts like this try the following: Unplug the computer and turn it on. You will see fans turn a little and then stop obviously. This drains out all capacitors. Then plug it back in and fire it up. Could be mobo, could be PSU. You could go for a new modular PSU as a nice quality of life upgrade and see if that fixes it.10 year old PSUs die pretty soon so dumping it makes sense now anyway. 650 watt would cover anything other then overclocking with a new 3080 and should have plugs for everything you use now and then some.
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Oct 30, 2020 01:54
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spunkshui posted:Next time it acts like this try the following: Unplug the computer and turn it on. You will see fans turn a little and then stop obviously. This drains out all capacitors. Then plug it back in and fire it up. And for the love of God, if you do get a new PSU, DO NOT USE THE OLD CABLES. I can not repeat that enough, and people always think they can save five minutes and just plug in the old cables to the new PSU. It's always a bad idea. Replace the cables if you replace the PSU.
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Oct 30, 2020 02:02
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Gearman posted:And for the love of God, if you do get a new PSU, DO NOT USE THE OLD CABLES. I can not repeat that enough, and people always think they can save five minutes and just plug in the old cables to the new PSU. It's always a bad idea. Replace the cables if you replace the PSU. For clarity: you can reuse anything like an adapter that turns a Molex 4pin into sata. You just cant swap modular cables between PSUs. His PSU doesn't look modular so he doesn't have a choice his wires got to go but yeah good warning for other readers.
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Oct 30, 2020 02:21
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That's good to know, thanks! Sound like a 650 watt PSU is the way to go. Are there any PSU brands I should specifically look for/avoid?
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Oct 30, 2020 03:25
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Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:That's good to know, thanks! Sound like a 650 watt PSU is the way to go. Are there any PSU brands I should specifically look for/avoid? EVGA, Corsair, Seasonic are the top 3. No reason to not get one of them.
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Oct 30, 2020 03:53
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Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:That's good to know, thanks! Sound like a 650 watt PSU is the way to go. Are there any PSU brands I should specifically look for/avoid? I would also go with a Gold-rated, given how long you had the last one. It's hard to gently caress up the parts when you are at that level. That being said, I just made an upgrade from a system almost identical to yours and the real-world performance improvement was ~insane~!!
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Oct 30, 2020 04:26
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What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? Moderate Gaming, think Total Warhammer 2 at good but not amazing settings. Don't play a lot of shooters and don't plan to do VR or Raytracing. What's your budget? $1000. I have an old keyboard and mouse, but probably need to squeeze a monitor in as well. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? Don't have a monitor to build to. Shooting for above average graphics today, so that in three years or so I can still get things to run. Think getting a hypothetical XCOM 3 to run, not next generation Crysis or whatever. Previous two computers were both laptops that basically outlived their fans. Looking forward to a computer with a user serviceable fan. Not a lot of experience assembling computers, but share a ventilation system with someone who does. The idea of applying thermal paste or overclocking gives me the shivers but anything short of that should be fine.
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Oct 30, 2020 07:15
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EVGA 3070 says a 650 watt power supply is required and mine is 620. Is that a hard no-go or can I squeak by?
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Oct 30, 2020 09:41
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Capntastic posted:EVGA 3070 says a 650 watt power supply is required and mine is 620. Is that a hard no-go or can I squeak by? If you have a high quality power supply you'll probably be okay. What power supply is it?
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Oct 30, 2020 10:43
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Rexxed posted:If you have a high quality power supply you'll probably be okay. What power supply is it? Seasonic 620 Bronze https://www.newegg.com/amp/seasonic-s12ii-series-s12ii-620-bronze-620w/p/N82E16817151096R
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Oct 30, 2020 10:48
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Capntastic posted:Seasonic 620 Bronze That's not a bad one, you'll probably be okay. A lot of the video card requirements are laid out assuming you have really cheap garbage that won't be able to give the video card a couple hundred watts reliably.
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Oct 30, 2020 10:52
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Excellent, thank you. Perhaps if I’m lucky I’ll actually get the card.
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Oct 30, 2020 11:07
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I'm going to do some quick PSU math, very appropriate but close enough for a general idea. In testing the RTX 3000 cards draw close to their claimed max power unless you manually overclock them. So let's say that's 350 watts for a 3080 and 250 for a 3070. CPU gets a bit fuzzier because they market on TDP numbers that can be way lower than actual max power draw. But like a 3700X might not hit 100 and I think even a 3900X is pegged at 150ish. Some newer intels are heat pigs that can hit 200 watts stock and go over 300 if you OC. So a stock 3080 plus a non stupid stock CPU gets you to like 500. Everything else adds maybe 50. So a 650W PSU might have 100W of headroom there, or more. And that's with the CPU and GPU pegged at 100% simultaneously, wich doesn't actually happen outside synthetic stress tests. These are all very rough numbers, but you get the idea. The BIG caveat is overclocking, which can increase power draw all out of proportion to how much FPS number go up. So like you buy a 3080 with 3x8 pin and custom VBIOS and max it out in tandem with an i9-10900K overclocked on a big fuckoff radiator and your power needs can get intensely stupid very fast. sean10mm fucked around with this message at 12:22 on Oct 30, 2020 |
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Oct 30, 2020 12:20
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Possibly a simple question, but I'm getting more into photo and video editing, and also am starting to hit the wall on my system for newer games, so I'm back in the market to build a system. It's been literally a decade since I rebuilt my desktop, and the most recent component I bought was a replacement power supply in 2012...so I'm a bit rusty as far as system building goes. I read the OP and it seems like AMD is the CPU king at the moment. I have a flexible budget, so looking at PC partpicker, would I be an idiot spending too much money: https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/LRxFf7/magnificent-amd-gamingstreaming-build With video/photo editing and other applications I run, the CPU and RAM tend to be most important. However, it seems like the biggest money sink in these builds is the GPU, so if a couple hundred could be shaved from there that would be ideal so i could put it into a better 4K monitor. The primary game I'm looking at right now is Squad, but i wouldn't mind overbuilding a bit for other, more graphically intense games.
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Oct 30, 2020 14:39
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FlamingLiberal posted:They sent me an email last night saying that the cards were going live at 9 AM this morning Correct. Because that was the initial world wide release of a card that has never been able to be purchased before. What the other poster was saying is that they aren't sending out e-mails saying "hey, we are about to have this in stock again in 4 hours, get ready!" They aren't doing that as far as I know. No stores are doing that as far as I know either.
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Oct 30, 2020 15:24
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Right, they are not notifying on restock.
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Oct 30, 2020 15:56
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LogisticEarth posted:I read the OP and it seems like AMD is the CPU king at the moment. I have a flexible budget, so looking at PC partpicker, would I be an idiot spending too much money: Zen 3 will be out next week--I'd wait for those reviews to hit before you buy anything, because Zen 3 is adding something silly like 20% IPC vs the current Zen 2 that the list there has. The 3080 is complete overkill if you're not a "gamer" and your workflow doesn't leverage GPU acceleration. I'd instead either suggest the 3070 (hard to find right now), waiting for the 6800 reviews to come out (mid-Nov), or simply picking up something like a 1660 Super for much cheaper, seeing how that performs, and if you don't like it you can still upgrade to one of the above cards, assuming you buy from Amazon and therefore can return stuff until the end of January. Otherwise it seems pretty reasonable. I'd maybe swap the SSD for a better one, though. The ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro is still quite good (even with it's silent downgrade), as is the XPG GAMMIX S50 Lite, and the SK Hynix Gold P31. They're a bit more expensive, but should have meaningfully better performance if you're tossing around large video and photo files all day. DrDork fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Oct 30, 2020 |
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Oct 30, 2020 16:17
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DrDork posted:Zen 3 will be out next week--I'd wait for those reviews to hit before you buy anything, because Zen 3 is adding something silly like 20% IPC vs the current Zen 2 that the list there has. Great, this is something I probably wouldn't have realized if you hadn't told me. Thanks for the rest of the info. Looks like I'll probably hold off until later in November.
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Oct 30, 2020 17:02
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Newbie question, but I bumped up my DDR4 3200 mhz RAM in bios from 2133 to 2933 (why not use what I paid for), is this going to affect temps at all?
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Oct 30, 2020 17:04
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change my name posted:Newbie question, but I bumped up my DDR4 3200 mhz RAM in bios from 2133 to 2933 (why not use what I paid for), is this going to affect temps at all? Not by more than maybe like 1C. Set it as high as it'll let you go and still be stable--there's no real reason not to.
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Oct 30, 2020 17:06
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change my name posted:Newbie question, but I bumped up my DDR4 3200 mhz RAM in bios from 2133 to 2933 (why not use what I paid for), is this going to affect temps at all? Nothing really noticeable at least. Especially if you are rated for 3200 and are still under that. It's really when you start messing with voltages and actually overclocking it when you might notice temp changes.
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Oct 30, 2020 17:07
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Cool, thanks!
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Oct 30, 2020 17:20
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So I'm still on a GTX 970 and play at 1440p. It's definitely starting to struggle with most games to get a decent frame rate. I was hoping to snag a 30*0 for Cyberpunk, but lol inventory. I might just buy an EVGA RTX 2060 and step up to whatever 30-series card I can get. Do you guys think a 2060 would handle either Godfall or AssCreed: Valhalla at 1440p on High? edit: RTX 2060 KO Ultra Gaming for $350 or... RTX 2060 Super XC Gaming for $700 what the gently caress NewEgg / Nvidia 
Sab669 fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Oct 30, 2020 |
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Oct 30, 2020 17:33
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It'll certainly be able to do 1440p on high, but the question is gonna be FPS--open question there, but a 2060S is about 75% faster than a 970. 3070's look like they'll be reasonably obtainable in the next few weeks, if the early stocks are any indication of production and not just an instance of them storing up a month's worth of production and now we won't see much until December, anyhow. Step-up isn't a bad deal, just know that it'll likely be at least 1-2 months before you're offered a new card, the card offered will ONLY be the single SKU they're listing (3070 FTW3 Ultra, IIRC), and you have to submit your request almost immediately when you buy your 2060. Yeah, Turing pricing is all over the place right now. Some shops are keeping original MSRP, some are actually scalping on the grounds that Ampere is hard to get, some are cutting prices because Turing gets crushed by Ampere. Best I can say is if you're on NewEgg, always turn off third-party sellers, since they're usually the worst about hosed up prices.
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Oct 30, 2020 17:46
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Thanks. I don't think I mind waiting for the Step Up card to arrive, I'm sure a 2060 will handle CP just fine too.
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Oct 30, 2020 17:51
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Quick question about swapping a bunch of parts at once. Since I'll be putting in a new motherboard, CPU, GPU, battery all in a new case, will I just be able to slap in my old hard drives & RAM and keep on trucking or will windows think it's a new computer? Is pee stored in the balls or...?
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Oct 30, 2020 18:48
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There are ways but a fresh install is strongly advised
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Oct 30, 2020 18:56
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Dial M for MURDER posted:Quick question about swapping a bunch of parts at once. Since I'll be putting in a new motherboard, CPU, GPU, battery all in a new case, will I just be able to slap in my old hard drives & RAM and keep on trucking or will windows think it's a new computer? Windows keys are generally tied to the CPU/Mobo, so you may have to reactivate. I think you can do this by calling microsoft but you can also just get a new key from SA mart for $15. Or if you don't care about your background, just never activate?
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Oct 30, 2020 19:03
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You can transfer Windows 10 keys between machines: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-transfer-windows-10-license-new-computer-or-hard-drive (haven't tried it though)
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Oct 30, 2020 19:05
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Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:Windows keys are generally tied to the CPU/Mobo, so you may have to reactivate. I think you can do this by calling microsoft but you can also just get a new key from SA mart for $15. Or if you don't care about your background, just never activate? The activation call takes like 5 minutes. No reason to spend money you don't need to. Butterfly Valley posted:There are ways but a fresh install is strongly advised Yeah. It'll probably work fine--Windows HAL is actually pretty damned good these days, but you never really know what oddities you might run into when you're doing something as big as a motherboard swap. Unless there's a very compelling reason not to, I'd go with a fresh install.
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Oct 30, 2020 19:07
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there is no penalty for just turning it on and seeing what happens. if its all weird or wont boot or whatever just plop in your USB and go anyway. not like you need to open the case. every time you do a 'feature upgrade' to win10 it essentially reinstalls the product. shell swap your poo poo, itll be fine. 
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Oct 30, 2020 19:23
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OK, I'll do a clean install then. So I just need to make a USB bootable right and then do the one that keeps personal files and I'll be good to go?
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Oct 30, 2020 19:24
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What country are you in? Ireland, but have to shop on Amazon UK or Scan.co.uk. What are you using the system for? Pure gaming PC to be used as a console by my sister. Indie games mostly, the odd AA-AAA game on medium settings I guess. No OC'ing intended and ideally I would want it to last 5 years. What's your budget? No more than £700, ideally I want to get the below parts on sale. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? This is to be used on an oldish 32" TV, so I guess 1080p/60Hz. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor (£129.97 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: MSI B450M-A PRO MAX Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£56.99 @ Amazon UK) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL15 Memory (£64.98 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Western Digital Green 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£87.00) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card (£216.00) Case: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£54.00) Power Supply: Corsair VS 450 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply (£47.00) Case Fan: Noctua F12 PWM 54.97 CFM 120 mm Fan (£17.98 @ Amazon UK) Total: £673.92 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Comments on this attempt at a "Steam Console" that will be used on a TV? Would want it to run for 5 years. Case was chosen as space is an issue at her place. I've tried to shave down the costs as much as possible, while still being something that can game decently. The Ryzen 3300X is cheaper and better, but out of stock, so I went with a 2600. This will be my sister's first build so I'm keeping it relatively simple. P.S. Why are there literally no good deals on ebay? They're used parts/cases and Amazon is cheaper new. 
School Nickname fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Oct 30, 2020 |
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Oct 30, 2020 22:42
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School Nickname posted:What country are you in? Ireland, but have to shop on Amazon UK or Scan.co.uk. I'd buy a psu that at least bronze rated and has a 5 year warranty, but otherwise that's a fine build. It's basically what I'm running now and it does 1080p60 without issue.
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Oct 30, 2020 22:54
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