Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
I built my bench with a toolwell as I wasn't quite sure if it was a good idea or not and was sick of myself going back and forth ad nauseam. (Also because I didn't have enough material to make the top full-width and couldn't go scrounge up some thanks to covid.) Having lived with it for a while, it's not a bad thing to have, but probably due to working off of a Workmate for too long I'd overestimated it's value in preventing your tools from being knocked off the bench, and underestimated how much of a trade-off in workspace it really is. Luckily the wellboard is kept in place only with a couple of screws, so once I manage to my hands on enough material it's bye-bye toolwell, hello full-width top (which I would've done earlier, except covid).

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Flea Bargain posted:

So I spent the afternoon learning Sketchup to model the workbench I want to build. It's basically the Moravian workbench from here but modified for timber that I have easy access to, plus different vice hardware (that's what the bit on the left is). I'm pretty happy with the results, but would love it if people had feedback/suggestions.

More images here.
There's pegs to hold the bottom rails on, but I haven't modeled them yet.

The joinery looks to me like a challenge, in particular the short stretchers. That sliding dovetail on the lower stretcher looks like way too much work, and big honking through tenons are no picnic. I think you could simplify the short stretchers by doing half-laps with them, like I did on my bench here. You can cut those with a handsaw and a chisel in five minutes. I'm also unsure if you really need two stretchers on each side. The tops of the legs should be secured by the top, so the middle stretchers seem redundant. Not really sure what's going on with the joinery on the tool tray, or how it will be attached to the top.

Like others said, I would also skip the tool tray and get a leg vise, but those are personal preferences.

Flea Bargain
Dec 9, 2008

'Twas brillig


So I already have a face vice, so that's why that's in the plans for now.

Both the workbench top and the toolwell sit on pegs on top of the legs and are therefore removable. If I hate the toolwell then it's easy to replace with more bench eventually. It doesn't feel like it'll loosen over time, but I could be wrong.

The joinery is tricky for sure, but I want to practice and am in no rush so figured I'd take a stab at it.

Thanks everyone for your thoughts!

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Here's a fun way to remember word spellings!


VICE: like Miami Vice. It has a C in it. The C stands for COCAINE

VISE: like a bench vise. It has an S in it. the S stands for SQUEEZED

Not to pick on anyone in particular, but I did a search of the thread for "vice" and got 101 posts as a result. Lol.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

I'm more surprised that search works and that we can apparently search in threads now.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Flea Bargain posted:

So I already have a face vice, so that's why that's in the plans for now.

Leperflesh posted:

Here's a fun way to remember word spellings!


VICE: like Miami Vice. It has a C in it. The C stands for COCAINE

VISE: like a bench vise. It has an S in it. the S stands for SQUEEZED

Not to pick on anyone in particular, but I did a search of the thread for "vice" and got 101 posts as a result. Lol.

Oh he knows. He just LOVES face loving.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Hypnolobster posted:

I'm more surprised that search works and that we can apparently search in threads now.

Search works for stuff that is indexed, which is all live threads once the indexer runs on them periodically, and only some of the archives; and you could always search specific threads by using a particular syntax, but we now have a little search bar on threads that builds that syntax for you so it's a fun little shortcut. That feature went live about a day after Lowtax finally signed the contract.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Hypnolobster posted:

I'm more surprised that search works and that we can apparently search in threads now.
It's because Jeffrey loves us.


GEMorris posted:

Preferring a tail vise over a face vise (leg or quick release) is certainly an unexpected take. Not saying your preferences are wrong, but based on your comments, have you used the combination of a planing stop and a does foot before? I ask because I went from "tail vise is critical" to "my next bench won't have a tail vise" after using that combo.
I have never used a doe's foot and I don't know what that is! I should clarify that while I love my handtool bench, I don't do a ton of hand planing. It was revolutionary for me to clamp things in the tail vise w/dogs to use a router and not have clamps in the way. Even with a leg vise/deadman I still occasionally have to clamp stuff to the bench with pipe clamps for working on edge. That's not super convenient but also not super common and I could live without a leg vise if I had to. If I were all hand tool I would work on edge a whole lot more than I do and probably appreciate my leg vise more, but all my edge jointing gets done at the jointer and not on a workbench.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
Oh yeah as a workpiece holder for a router a tail vise is super sweet, agreed.

A doe's foot is this

Also a friendly thread reminder that The Anarchist's Workbench is a free book full of valuable info!

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


GEMorris posted:

Oh yeah as a workpiece holder for a router a tail vise is super sweet, agreed.

A doe's foot is this

Before I had a real workbench, I accidentally invented that jig and many variations on it several times (though screwed down instead of holdfasted), and it is very useful indeed. With a stop at the other end it would do a good job of replacing a tail vise-I hadn't ever thought of that.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


My buddy wants a sawmill. This sawmill is for sale. Is this a good sawmill?

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009
If we say yes will you promise to document it when your friend loses an arm to it?

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Rapulum_Dei posted:

If we say yes will you promise to document it when your friend loses an arm to it?

Report yes, photograph no.

mds2
Apr 8, 2004


Australia: 131114
Canada: 18662773553
Germany: 08001810771
India: 8888817666
Japan: 810352869090
Russia: 0078202577577
UK: 08457909090
US: 1-800-273-8255

CommonShore posted:

My buddy wants a sawmill. This sawmill is for sale. Is this a good sawmill?



I would be interested in that if the price is right.

poopinmymouth
Mar 2, 2005

PROUD 2 B AMERICAN (these colors don't run)
I waited til the Lee Valley sales event, even managed to snag 2nds of two of the five planers I wanted for a decent savings, but I go to checkout and despite claiming international shipping, when I go to pay, it says it can't ship to me. I ended up buying local, and got really lucky (and saved a lot, 700$ versus 2,000$)

Check it:



They didn't have an 06, and the only 06 for sale in iceland was 3x the price (from Rider), so I got a 04 smoothing, an 04 budget to use as a scrub plane, 05 for jointing, a rabbet plane, and they had a plough plane in stock!! He even told me they got it in 1991 and no one had bought it, couldn't believe my luck, it even has a manual I will scan because I didn't find an 045C manual anywhere on the internet. It only came with a 4mm blade, so I ended up making a 13mm from a chisel, and will next make a matching tonguing plane now that I know it's fairly easy.




I kept the handle on while shaping, to have a better way to hold it. I had to thin the whole thing to 3.5mm but luckily the sides and bottom were good to go. The tonguing plane will be harder



Then I just cut off the handle, voila.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
I have bad news about the quality difference between Lee Valley and Record. Good luck with your fettling and setup, I hope you got some good picks out of the quality lottery.

The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?

poopinmymouth posted:

I waited til the Lee Valley sales event, even managed to snag 2nds of two of the five planers I wanted for a decent savings, but I go to checkout and despite claiming international shipping, when I go to pay, it says it can't ship to me. I ended up buying local, and got really lucky (and saved a lot, 700$ versus 2,000$)

Check it:



They didn't have an 06, and the only 06 for sale in iceland was 3x the price (from Rider), so I got a 04 smoothing, an 04 budget to use as a scrub plane, 05 for jointing, a rabbet plane, and they had a plough plane in stock!! He even told me they got it in 1991 and no one had bought it, couldn't believe my luck, it even has a manual I will scan because I didn't find an 045C manual anywhere on the internet. It only came with a 4mm blade, so I ended up making a 13mm from a chisel, and will next make a matching tonguing plane now that I know it's fairly easy.




I kept the handle on while shaping, to have a better way to hold it. I had to thin the whole thing to 3.5mm but luckily the sides and bottom were good to go. The tonguing plane will be harder



Then I just cut off the handle, voila.



I can't tell if it's just the pictures but the finish on the 778's the skate looks really rough. That's a clean cut on your chisel though, looks like a good solution.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


mds2 posted:

I would be interested in that if the price is right.

What price would you call "right"? Just roughly.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

CommonShore posted:

What price would you call "right"? Just roughly.

Condition matters. Can you provide at least a model, age, does it come with blades/what kinda blades, etc? Is that a gas motor or a generator, what's it run on, what's the condition of it like? How bad is the rust? What state is it in, because it's probably worth more in california than tennessee? That small picture is really not much to go on.



Anyway hey guys so as of today I'm "an artist" because I signed up for this:
https://www.bedfordgallery.org/art-opportunities/call-for-entries
Have any of you ever submitted woodwork as art for a show? I have no idea yet what I'll make, I want to see what the wood looks like and how much I get (everything is very vague on that point).

mds2
Apr 8, 2004


Australia: 131114
Canada: 18662773553
Germany: 08001810771
India: 8888817666
Japan: 810352869090
Russia: 0078202577577
UK: 08457909090
US: 1-800-273-8255

CommonShore posted:

What price would you call "right"? Just roughly.

$500-$800?? Like posted above, lots of variables to consider. And I am a cheapass.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

Leperflesh posted:

Anyway hey guys so as of today I'm "an artist" because I signed up for this:
https://www.bedfordgallery.org/art-opportunities/call-for-entries
Have any of you ever submitted woodwork as art for a show? I have no idea yet what I'll make, I want to see what the wood looks like and how much I get (everything is very vague on that point).

If you get enough you can make some artisan bedslats.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Leperflesh posted:

Condition matters. Can you provide at least a model, age, does it come with blades/what kinda blades, etc? Is that a gas motor or a generator, what's it run on, what's the condition of it like? How bad is the rust? What state is it in, because it's probably worth more in california than tennessee? That small picture is really not much to go on.



Anyway hey guys so as of today I'm "an artist" because I signed up for this:
https://www.bedfordgallery.org/art-opportunities/call-for-entries
Have any of you ever submitted woodwork as art for a show? I have no idea yet what I'll make, I want to see what the wood looks like and how much I get (everything is very vague on that point).

It's tough. We're in Canada and it's on a listing from a rural garage sale that's a "as is, just want it gone" situation and we're trying to talk the seller into giving us more information before I drive out, and we had to twist her arm before even getting a picture. She probably has no idea what it is honestly. We don't mind doing some work on it but we want to figure out if it's even worth a poo poo to bother going for a closer look.

poopinmymouth
Mar 2, 2005

PROUD 2 B AMERICAN (these colors don't run)

GEMorris posted:

I have bad news about the quality difference between Lee Valley and Record. Good luck with your fettling and setup, I hope you got some good picks out of the quality lottery.

I realized I'm a mid shelf kind of guy. 😜

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


We're going to see what she's asking.


In other news I just picked up this pair for $55 Canadian including shipping



The no4 seems totally new! The 110 needs some love but it'll be a good project

Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

by Fluffdaddy

CommonShore posted:

We're going to see what she's asking.


In other news I just picked up this pair for $55 Canadian including shipping



The no4 seems totally new! The 110 needs some love but it'll be a good project

Nice! I wish I knew how common and cheap old hand planes were before I picked up this questionable thing from Canadian Tire:

Flea Bargain
Dec 9, 2008

'Twas brillig


So I've done some more thinking on the workbench, and I think I'll make it solid all the way across, with two 31.5cm (12.4in for you yanks) slabs flush to each other and removable for moving the workbench around (I'm renting so it needs to be easily portable). My issue is that I have two 25cm clamps and two 30cm clamps - is this enough for a 2m long glue up (probably not?) and does anyone have ideas how I could laminate when my clamps aren't big enough? Could I put it on its side and pile bricks on top?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Flea Bargain posted:

So I've done some more thinking on the workbench, and I think I'll make it solid all the way across, with two 31.5cm (12.4in for you yanks) slabs flush to each other and removable for moving the workbench around (I'm renting so it needs to be easily portable). My issue is that I have two 25cm clamps and two 30cm clamps - is this enough for a 2m long glue up (probably not?) and does anyone have ideas how I could laminate when my clamps aren't big enough? Could I put it on its side and pile bricks on top?

I like a clamp every foot at least, and that’s with big strong pipe clamps.

With the clamps you have, your best bet is probably to glue and screw each board on and use the screws as clamps. Do it one board at a time with screws and pull the screws after the glue sets. Probably the same amount of hands-on time, but it might take a week of a board or two a day.

Flea Bargain
Dec 9, 2008

'Twas brillig


Screws are a great idea, any reason I can't just leave them in and mark where they are so I don't hit them when drilling dog holes?

The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?

Flea Bargain posted:

Screws are a great idea, any reason I can't just leave them in and mark where they are so I don't hit them when drilling dog holes?

It ads a lot of cost and hassle (keeping track of them) for no real benefit.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Flea Bargain posted:

Screws are a great idea, any reason I can't just leave them in and mark where they are so I don't hit them when drilling dog holes?
You’ll forget one somewhere, don’t worry. I’d take them out even if it meant taking it slow, but I’ve fixed enough furniture to have an unreasonable horror of buried metal. It only takes 1 chipped chisel to change your mind, I promise.

Flea Bargain
Dec 9, 2008

'Twas brillig


Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

You’ll forget one somewhere, don’t worry. I’d take them out even if it meant taking it slow, but I’ve fixed enough furniture to have an unreasonable horror of buried metal. It only takes 1 chipped chisel to change your mind, I promise.

Reasonable enough! Thanks for the help friends

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
Screws as clamps adds labor but it absolutely has a benefit if you don't own enough clamps.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

You can also consider the Cosman approach of using MDF, gluing and screwing on the faces. Still remove the screws, so you can still only do one layer at a time, but with 3-4 layers it'll go faster.

Blistex
Oct 30, 2003

Macho Business
Donkey Wrestler

mds2 posted:

I would be interested in that if the price is right.

My dad has an Enercraft Silva Saw and it's going strong ~30 years later. They're chain adjustable, so no stretching cables and assuming it hasn't been in a car accident the frame should last forever. Obviously engines are hit or miss, but the original 20hp that came with it is running fine.

Elysium
Aug 21, 2003
It is by will alone I set my mind in motion.
After waiting a month for the poly to cure, I finished 2/4 Crokinole boards yesterday. This involved attaching the center to the bases, Sanding/polishing the poly up to 4000 grit, waxing the surface, and inserting the pegs (which are pan head screws with impossible-to-cut-straight rubber tubing).



Why 2/4? Well, I had some uh, setbacks. The first board I started to sand I wasn’t sure how much to do with the lower grits, and I ended up sanding right through the poly in some spots. So yeah, back to square one with adding poly and waiting another month I guess...

The second board I was determined not to sand through the top, which was fine except I had the genius idea to use my vacuum attachment on the sander so it would clear more of the dust, and the added bulk made it awkward and I immediately sanded on an edge trying to readjust my positioning and went straight through the poly and even the stain. This was only on the very edge of the disc, so technically wouldn’t affect anything, but now I had a strip of light colored corner on an all dark stained board. So I added more stain and a few coats of poly to the edge and I’ll try again later on that one too.

Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

by Fluffdaddy

Elysium posted:

After waiting a month for the poly to cure, I finished 2/4 Crokinole boards yesterday. This involved attaching the center to the bases, Sanding/polishing the poly up to 4000 grit, waxing the surface, and inserting the pegs (which are pan head screws with impossible-to-cut-straight rubber tubing).



Why 2/4? Well, I had some uh, setbacks. The first board I started to sand I wasn’t sure how much to do with the lower grits, and I ended up sanding right through the poly in some spots. So yeah, back to square one with adding poly and waiting another month I guess...

The second board I was determined not to sand through the top, which was fine except I had the genius idea to use my vacuum attachment on the sander so it would clear more of the dust, and the added bulk made it awkward and I immediately sanded on an edge trying to readjust my positioning and went straight through the poly and even the stain. This was only on the very edge of the disc, so technically wouldn’t affect anything, but now I had a strip of light colored corner on an all dark stained board. So I added more stain and a few coats of poly to the edge and I’ll try again later on that one too.

That is a thing of beauty. I'm glad you will not allow any imperfections in the other boards, Crokinole boards must be perfect :hai:

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Elysium posted:

After waiting a month for the poly to cure, I finished 2/4 Crokinole boards yesterday. This involved attaching the center to the bases, Sanding/polishing the poly up to 4000 grit, waxing the surface, and inserting the pegs (which are pan head screws with impossible-to-cut-straight rubber tubing).



Why 2/4? Well, I had some uh, setbacks. The first board I started to sand I wasn’t sure how much to do with the lower grits, and I ended up sanding right through the poly in some spots. So yeah, back to square one with adding poly and waiting another month I guess...

The second board I was determined not to sand through the top, which was fine except I had the genius idea to use my vacuum attachment on the sander so it would clear more of the dust, and the added bulk made it awkward and I immediately sanded on an edge trying to readjust my positioning and went straight through the poly and even the stain. This was only on the very edge of the disc, so technically wouldn’t affect anything, but now I had a strip of light colored corner on an all dark stained board. So I added more stain and a few coats of poly to the edge and I’ll try again later on that one too.

How did you make the pucks? I imagine make dowels, cut discs, and then run them over a router table? Having pieces that close to a router bit seems terrifying

Elysium
Aug 21, 2003
It is by will alone I set my mind in motion.
I just bought them. You certainly could make them (I mean, someone has to), but it definitely doesn’t seem worth. The only downside is you kind of have to get them from Canada and no one gives free shipping.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

Flea Bargain posted:

Screws are a great idea, any reason I can't just leave them in and mark where they are so I don't hit them when drilling dog holes?

I used an old piece of bowling alley for my benchtop, there's a ton of nails in it. I used a throwaway drill bit when I drilled the dogs and probably drilled through 4 nails doing it.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

by Fluffdaddy

Sockser posted:

How did you make the pucks? I imagine make dowels, cut discs, and then run them over a router table? Having pieces that close to a router bit seems terrifying

You could make a long wavy thing on a lathe, then cut it into disks and sand down the flat parts square. Doing that with a router table sounds like madness :v:

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply