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Tyro posted:The CX-5 is a bit more fun to drive than the others also, if you care about that. We cross shopped the CR-V, CX-5 and RAV4 a few years ago and the finalists for us were the CR-V and CX-5. We went with the CR-V because the Honda dealers were more willing to come down in price. I also didn't care for the HR-V at all. I had basically the exact same experience buying a new crossover in 2013, except we struck the RAV4 right away because neither of us liked how it looked at all. Honda was offering better pricing and better financing, especially when at the time getting a reverse camera in the CX-5 meant going mid-trim instead of base. MJP posted:Is it better in general to finance, or pay cash? Let's assume I won't be financing more than $11k total for a 2 or 3 year old Honda Accord or otherwise reliable car, no more than 15k miles per year, with the intention to keep it for at least 5 years or as long as I can. Even used car rates are very low right now, in the 2-3% range. I'm assuming your investments are doing better than that, and that's before you account for inflation. I was going to suggest possibly considering buying new to get a manufacturer subsidized rate but it looks like Honda's only doing 1.9% on the Accord, instead of 0.9% or 0%.
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Nov 2, 2020 22:30
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:shop the interest rates I haven't done formal applications yet in order to avoid hard hits on my credit report, but local credit unions do anywhere from 1.99% to 2.99% for $11,000. You make a good point about keeping a note on the budget - I bought my current car for cash in 2016 (2011 Subaru Legacy, which is causing major maintenance headaches) and before that, I bought a new Scion xA in late 2004, paying it off I think in 2007-2008ish. I am very spoiled for luxury cars, the luxury being that I don't have to make payments. My risk tolerance is fairly high over the long haul - if things go great I can retire in 17 years at age 55, but I'm OK with working until 65 if I need to, or whatever minimum Medicare age is in the 2040s. My wife and I have our IRAs and 401ks in Vanguard target date funds, total global stock, total US stock, and bonds. I want to conservatively estimate that we were getting 8% returns pre-COVID, based on what my Vanguard account has had in it, but we contributed way more from 2017 onwards since my wife was coming off of being unable to work for 5 years. Over a 10 year period, assuming I get a car this instant, and assuming a conservative 6% return, it seems that I'd be better served by financing. Assuming the worst at a 2.59% APR loan, I at least have that 10 years worth of money earning dividends, but I'm too undercaffeinated to take "how much do I have in the end if I pay $X00/mo for 36 months and invest $Y00/mo over 10 years vs. how much do I have in the end if I pay $11,000 out of pocket?" and crunch them out. IOwnCalculus posted:possibly considering buying new I'd much rather not buy new if for no other reason than not having to pay depreciation. Paying $32k for a brand new Accord vs. $22k for a 2018 is a big chunk of change that I don't have to spend, even at 0%.
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Nov 2, 2020 22:56
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First of all, a new Honda Accord LX with Honda Sensing safety package is like 25 grand, not 32, and the same car from 2018 appears to be selling for about 17 grand. So the split is not so large on the buy side. Depreciation doesn't quite work in absolute terms either - you're basically buying the useful life of the car, and a two-year-old car does not have the same useful life as a new one. Say an Accord will get to 200,000 miles without breaking a sweat. If you buy a brand new Accord, you are buying 200,000 miles of delicious Honda Accord for $25 grand plus maintenance and repairs, or a total cost of 12.5 cents per mile of useful life, plus say, 10 cents per mile in maintenance/repair/tires etc. If you buy the same car from 2018 at $17,200 with 22,000 miles on it, you are really buying 178k miles of delicious Honda Accord for $17,2 plus maintenance and repairs. On the up front purchase, you get a total cost of 9.6 cents per mile, which is a lot less than 12.5. But you will probably pay the same in total maintenance cost in absolute terms over the lifetime of the car, because the first miles of the car are cheap from a maintenance perspective and free from a repair perspective due to warranties. You are now at 11.2 cpm there, which closes the gap to 20.8 cpm vs 22.5. Cheaper financing can close the gap further, but of course if there aren't 0.9% specials or big on-hood discounts it doesn't make sense to try to push to a new car. Also, if I plan to drive a car in to the ground I do think there's value in knowing that some gently caress head PO didn't screw up the car. edit: if you aren't planning to take out any other big loans any time soon who cares about a single pull that will go away in 30 days?
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Nov 2, 2020 23:13
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If your mortgage doesn't have a pre-payment penalty then your risk free rate of return is the interest rate of your mortgage, or student loan or whatever. Also consider that you must reduce your investment rate of return by your marginal tax rate. I've never actually had any student loans, mortgages or car debt myself so this is all theoretical to me.
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Nov 3, 2020 00:03
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Looking for a hatchback (or car with roomy trunk) that does well on snow and ice for about 15k.
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Nov 3, 2020 00:06
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any car with snow tires, take your pick from prius / mazda3 / elantra GT / civic hatch / toyota corolla hatch / scion iM / manual ford focus / chevrolet cruze hatch and throw snows on it if you need hard core snow capabilities the impreza or legacy are good
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Nov 3, 2020 02:34
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:First of all, a new Honda Accord LX with Honda Sensing safety package is like 25 grand, not 32, and the same car from 2018 appears to be selling for about 17 grand. So the split is not so large on the buy side. True, but I've got heated seats on my wishlist, which takes the Accord to EX trim. Plus what the heck, no 2020s at that trim have a paint color where you can get the interior as anything but black on black? Heated seats are also on my want list, so the lowest cost new Accord with heated seats and auto-dimming Homelink mirror - Sport Special Edition - ends up at an MSRP and destination of $30,129, vs. a 2018 with the same features and 16,500 miles at $23,800. It's that $6500-$8000 hump that's tough for me to overcome. I've also gone into drive-it-into-the-ground mentality with both cars I previously owned, and I ended up not doing it, so to me it makes more sense to not risk the higher cpm in ownership. Just so I can crunch the numbers - if I'm calculating cents per mile, it's just hypothetical price (or total financed cost including interest over the life of the loan) divided by however many miles I expect to put on it? I'll post my must-have/must-not-have list at some point. Fortunately I have to wait on a duplicate title - current one is AWOL  and NJ MVC says it'll take at least 10 weeks to process. Having that delay is a built-in brake on the process. It does rule out some month-end/year-end haggling if I go the new car route but I'd rather not go in without having sold my current car. Fortunately I'm 100% WFH and my wife's Leaf has enough range to get us where we go and back. Edit: here's the list. The Accord was just a placeholder for the finance question; I'm not necessarily fixed on it. I'd even consider BMWs if they somehow no longer cost $900 for new brake pads or US cars if they don't have weird issues after mile 90,000. I do like Car Stuff but I recognize the reality that I should be running a car for all it's worth and not get a different one every 5 years. So yeah, suggest away. Budget is $20-$25k total after taxes, registration, etc. Located in NJ. I won't be buying until at least Feb/Mar 2021. Prefer used, 4 doors are fine but it'd be great if a 2 door happened. Regular commuter/general-purpose car, maybe 2 or 3 3-6 hour road trips per year. MUST HAVE Smooth, quiet ride Reasonable consumable maintenance costs (e.g. brake pads, scheduled maintenance, etc.) Split folding rear seats (we don't haul much cargo but it's nice to have the option) Android Auto Heated seats Lighter-color interior fabric/trim (beige, gray, anything that isn't all jet black) Good lumbar support Standard coupe/sedan layout (My wife will drive the car occasionally and she isn't a fan of seat position in SUVs, etc.) Dual-zone climate control One remote for everything (unlock/lock, trunk release, and remote start - if this can be done aftermarket, I'm fine with it) NICE TO HAVE A dash design where my knee doesn't rest on the center (I'm 6'2", 34" inseam, and even with the seat all the way back I seem to have my knee on the dash in every car but my wife's Leaf, which has a big cutout due to no transmission hump) A model that's a little different - Accords are fine cars, but I'd rather be ~*~a unique and beautiful snowflake~*~ if I can Room in the back for 5'9" adults with a 6'2" driver (We rarely have passengers but if we have someone I'd rather they didn't get crushed behind me) Wood trim or similar in the interior (something sorta like the wood-esque texture the Accords have, for example) Leather/leatherette/etc. seats Seat position memory MUST NOT HAVE All-black interior (The more light colors the better) Cheap looking all-plastic interior Rear-wheel drive I don't necessarily need or want the new sensors, to me they're bells and whistles. I wouldn't pay more for them, but I won't turn cars down if they have 'em. MJP fucked around with this message at 14:35 on Nov 3, 2020 |
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Nov 3, 2020 02:51
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MJP posted:Edit: here's the list. The Accord was just a placeholder for the finance question; I'm not necessarily fixed on it. I'd even consider BMWs if they somehow no longer cost $900 for new brake pads If you're trying to minmax cost of ownership to the point of debating not taking a <3% loan, BMW ownership is not for you. Driving an actual car instead of a crossover in 2020 is being a bit of a unique snowflake in itself. Your wants in features / size in combination with no RWD and cost-conscious ownership don't exactly leave you with a ton of choices. Accord, Mazda6, maybe Lexus ES350? Hyundai Genesis / Genesis G80 if you can find one with AWD?
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Nov 3, 2020 16:01
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what's wrong with RWD? not that there are a ton of options with it. not a lot of disadvantages these days with modern traction and stability control systems and whatnot Congrats u are a future ES350/ES300H/Avalon owner. the snowflake requirement is kind of interesting, I suppose you could do like a TLX or something like that which was uncompetitive and unloved when new but basically you don't get reliability and features in snowflake cars because if they had those things, they wouldn't be snowflakes.
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Nov 3, 2020 16:22
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:what's wrong with RWD? not that there are a ton of options with it. not a lot of disadvantages these days with modern traction and stability control systems and whatnot I'm in NJ, we get snow (or at least we're normally supposed to, lol climate change) and I'd much rather have FWD or AWD. If there's an argument to be made for snow tires on RWD being a safe enough way to just get from office to home in a weather emergency, and if RWD doesn't make any significant change to maintenance costs, I'd consider it. Never had an RWD car. I hear you on the snowflake car thing. I was thinking of a Volvo S60 but I don't think I'll find one in the mileage/year requirements. As much as I'd love to have a Bimmer or one of the 2016+ Cadillacs, the specters of reliability and maintenance costs hover. I'm way, way gun-shy after sinking $2400 over four years to fix stuff that randomly broke in my current ride. ES350s don't have Android Auto, apparently, but there's a $600 aftermarket kit that enables it. Further googling says that only 2019+ Toyotas have it natively, so it looks like I'd lean TLX/Accord over ES/Avalon if I had to pick one or the other unless the difference between costs favors the aftermarket kit. IOwnCalculus posted:Driving an actual car instead of a crossover in 2020 is being a bit of a unique snowflake in itself. Are there any crossovers that are very car-like in where their seats are placed relative to the road? When I was looking for the Legacy I eventually got, my wife test-drove a CR-V and wasn't really comfortable with how high off the road she was. I'd consider a crossover as long as it checked the checkboxes and my wife was OK with it as the secondary operator. MJP fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Nov 3, 2020 |
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Nov 3, 2020 16:39
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MJP posted:I'm in NJ, we get snow (or at least we're normally supposed to, lol climate change) and I'd much rather have FWD or AWD. If there's an argument to be made for snow tires on RWD being a safe enough way to just get from office to home in a weather emergency, and if RWD doesn't make any significant change to maintenance costs, I'd consider it. Never had an RWD car. You’re gun shy over $50 a month in maintenance? Hope you are doing all your own work regardless of what car you get.
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Nov 3, 2020 17:48
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RWD with snow tires is absolutely perfectly safe.
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Nov 3, 2020 18:38
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$2400 of maintenance and repairs over 4 years on a ~10 year old Subaru sounds entirely normal and expected. That’s less than sales tax alone on a new car. $600 a year average is nothing. That’s only one or two monthly payments on a new car. Like I get wanting to have a new car, absolutely fine. But you’re kidding yourself if you think it’s going to save money. All cars are expensive, all cars need maintenance and repairs. With a new car you likely get a few years of minimal repairs but you pay dearly for it. I feel like you’re trying to penny pinch in the wrong places.
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Nov 3, 2020 20:00
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Guinness posted:$2400 of maintenance and repairs over 4 years on a ~10 year old Subaru sounds entirely normal and expected. That’s less than sales tax alone on a new car. $600 a year average is nothing. That’s only one or two monthly payments on a new car. Oh yeah, I definitely accept that it isn't a money-saving move. Want-nifty-newer-car is probably going to be a lifelong affliction for me. After all the issues my current car has had, though, including the fact that the mechanic still can't figure out why it keeps on flooding through the sunroof, I'm more iffy about its reliability and general usage in the future. I found a TSB that covers possible leakage or drainage from the affected area and I'm taking it to the dealer next week. If they find and fix it, and it doesn't flood again after the next big rainstorm, sweet, it'll last. If they don't, I'm at the point where I'd rather just sell it and move on. I guess it was more of a longer-term hypothetical. The difference 2ish percent earned on a hypothetical bonus over 10 years is looking more like it's not big enough of a difference to lose sleep over, the more I dwell on it. IOwnCalculus posted:RWD with snow tires is absolutely perfectly safe. Interesting - I'll do some digging, but I suppose if RWD was 100% absolutely awful in the snow, nobody would buy them in this area. Can I just buy the tires and have a mechanic swap snow for non-snow, or should I have them on their own separate rims?
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Nov 3, 2020 20:55
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I'll echo that you should drastically calibrate your expectations on maintenance and repair. Out of curiosity, what has required replacement over that time period? These are very approximate rules of thumb but are decent reference points. For a new car, you should plan on roughly $25/mo through the warranty period, assuming 15K miles a year. That gets you your two-three oil changes, a wiper blade, and an accrual for tires. Once the warranty period is over, you should probably plan on $50-75/mo through roughly year five or six which again gets you your oil changes, wiper blades, routine inspections, an accrual for tires, and an occasional heavier repair. After that, you should probably plan on increasing that budget by $10/mo per year at minimum. There are some predictable markers that are expensive (eg a timing belt service, water pump service, etc) Based on that, in Year 9 of your Subaru ownership, you should be expecting to pay somewhere between $80-105/year in maintenance and repairs. If anything, you're under that. RWD definitely cheaper to own and run than AWD, probably a wash with FWD. Certain things are a lot easier to do yourself, some things are a fair bit harder.
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Nov 3, 2020 20:58
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MJP posted:the fact that the mechanic still can't figure out why it keeps on flooding through the sunroof, I'm more iffy about its reliability and general usage in the future. I'd be more "iffy" about your mechanic than your car.
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Nov 3, 2020 21:04
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MJP posted:Oh yeah, I definitely accept that it isn't a money-saving move. Want-nifty-newer-car is probably going to be a lifelong affliction for me. After all the issues my current car has had, though, including the fact that the mechanic still can't figure out why it keeps on flooding through the sunroof, I'm more iffy about its reliability and general usage in the future. It's fine to buy a new car because you want one and can afford it. Money isn't pure minmax poo poo, and if this is a priority you should not feel bad about putting money towards it. Do you park outside? this is likely to be a drains issue; most sunroof issues are drains issues. Solution: don't buy a sunroof. I passed up the beautiful panoramic sunroof on the golf wagon because I KNOW that thing is gonna leak. Options for snow tires: 1) You pay someone to swap same sized snow tires on to your wheels, and the opposite, every season. This requires the least cash outlay up front but usually costs a bit more each season for the swap. You buy the tires outright. 2) You pay someone to swap your snow tires that you have mounted on separate wheels, every season. This requires more cash up front since you have to buy both wheels and tires but allows you to run smaller, cheaper, more effective winter tires. It's cheaper to do the swap. You buy both the tires and wheels outright. 3) You swap tires yourself; this is pretty easy but basically requires separate wheels and everything in step 2. You can save a bit of money but you should have jackstands at minimum. Most places that do changeovers will store your tires or tire and wheel combos for a fairly low fee each year, which is nice because tires are high bulk and dirty.
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Nov 3, 2020 21:06
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:It's fine to buy a new car because you want one Yeah, I've always thought cars were fun and cool but I've always erred towards the practical. It's really tough to separate the "this is how I'm supposed to be" of sacrificing things I'd like for the "this is what I want" things that are smarter. KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Do you park outside? this is likely to be a drains issue Isn't it supposed to be whether or not I have stairs in my house I do park outside, and the repair guy has blown the sunroof drains clear. which stopped the issue twice already. Once a year or so ago when it first occurred, which had no issues until about three weeks ago. The floor flooded, the sunroof drains were blown out, they drained the floors, and it recurred last week. Just picked it up earlier, and the mechanic said that he got almost a gallon out of it. I'm definitely going to take "does this have a sunroof" into consideration when I'm comparing. I am perfectly fine without one, but so many freaking trims that have things I would like/must have come with a sunroof. It's tough to make a sunroof an absolute deal-killer, but it's getting up there. KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Options for snow tires I have room in my garage to store tires if the need arises. As much as I know I can change a tire, I don't relish having to do it myself and will probably look into buying tires and/or wheels. When you say "smaller winter tires" do you mean a smaller rim size? If so should I be buying smaller wheels and tires for all four wheels or just the two up front or in the rear? KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I'll echo that you should drastically calibrate your expectations on maintenance and repair. Out of curiosity, what has required replacement over that time period? Setting aside consumables (oil, batteries, tires, etc.) and anything done for free as part of a recall, the car's service lifespan has looked like this: 3/16: I buy the car, 2011 Legacy, with I believe 42k miles 5/17: Front driver and passenger side window motors stopped working, replaced 6/17: Headlight bulbs replaced 5/18: Steering wheel airbag clockspring failed, replaced 8/18: Driver side headlight housing failed, replaced 8/19: Sunroof drain floorboard flood issue, troubleshooted/drained/detailed out possible mildew 5/20: Front left brake rotor had issues, replaced 8/20: Right rear TPMS sensor failed, replaced 10/20: Sunroof drain flood issue recurs twice, drained both times, drain plugs left ajar a little to mitigate any future leakage Maybe I was spoiled by my Scion before that, but it only needed break/fix repairs once or twice over 10-11 years. Motronic posted:I'd be more "iffy" about your mechanic than your car. FWIW this drain hose thing and why it keeps recurring, even after being blown out, is the only thing he's not been able to diagnose. I shopped around labor rates and references, and he's pretty good at what he does and has always guaranteed his work. In the usual spectrum of "good, fast, cheap, choose any two" he's at least good and cheap, but fortunately I've got a scooter for warmer weather and my wife's car should the need arise.
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Nov 3, 2020 23:15
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IOwnCalculus posted:RWD with snow tires is absolutely perfectly safe. Fun as hell too. I regret not putting my winters on for a couple days worth of snow on the roads last week 
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Nov 4, 2020 00:07
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How much negotiating room do you have on extremely popular cars, particularly if you're taking dealer financing incentives? We're down to 2020 RAV4 and CX-5 (like everyone else) and I wouldn't be surprised that financing + cash back incentives they are throwing in a major city dealership is going to be enough for the floor to just give buyers the take-it-or-leave-it MSRP because the stock will move, but I want to do my due diligence before I just bumble in and go "OKAY HERE'S MY SIGNATURE"
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Nov 4, 2020 00:40
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IOwnCalculus posted:RWD with snow tires is absolutely perfectly safe. See, my wife nixed the RWD Stinger purchase because of her fear that it wouldn't be the safest option in Indiana winters.
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Nov 4, 2020 04:38
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Rhyno posted:See, my wife nixed the RWD Stinger purchase because of her fear that it wouldn't be the safest option in Indiana winters. i mean its not the safest option in that it isn't like, a subaru outback on snows or whatever but it's not appreciably unsafe
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Nov 4, 2020 04:39
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I know the car comes in awd but the main appeal of the car is rwd fun. I guess I could just buy a beater and toss snows on it.
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Nov 4, 2020 04:42
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Rhyno posted:I know the car comes in awd but the main appeal of the car is rwd fun. My only concern in my M3 is snow that's too deep. Like 8" unplowed on the road that no one else has forged a path through. That and getting stopped on either side of the Eisenhower tunnel in a nasty storm and then having to try and go again in the new deep snow. Good winter tires make all the difference.
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Nov 4, 2020 07:10
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Rhyno posted:I know the car comes in awd but the main appeal of the car is rwd fun. The AWD Stinger is RWD biased and it will happily let the tail out if you turn off stability control. I don't regret getting the AWD version at all. It actually really helps pull through some of the understeer under hard cornering. Otherwise, there's nothing wrong with driving a modern RWD car in the snow with snow tires. "Worried about snow" is a bad reason to not buy a Stinger.
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Nov 4, 2020 07:18
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Rhyno posted:See, my wife nixed the RWD Stinger purchase because of her fear that it wouldn't be the safest option in Indiana winters. Rhyno posted:I guess I could just buy a beater and toss snows on it. this poo poo is hilarious to me, your beater with snows is going to be massively more unsafe than the stinger with snows
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Nov 4, 2020 13:53
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fknlo posted:My only concern in my M3 is snow that's too deep. Like 8" unplowed on the road that no one else has forged a path through. That and getting stopped on either side of the Eisenhower tunnel in a nasty storm and then having to try and go again in the new deep snow. Good winter tires make all the difference. I'd argue those are times where it's not 2WD, or the fact that your two wheels being driven are on the back, that's your limiting factor.
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Nov 4, 2020 17:58
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IOwnCalculus posted:6% should be loving highway robbery for someone with a three-digit credit score that doesn't start with a "5" or less. I wound up not buying anything, but a couple months ago I called my (Canadian) bank, asked them what sort of interest rate I'd get on a car loan through them; I've been banking with them forever and have excellent credit, even still it was "yeah 7%". Don't understand how that happens in the time of 0% central bank loans.
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Nov 4, 2020 19:39
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Yes, it's like a lava lamp.
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Having winter tyres also costs basically zero extra money because you're not wearing down your summers and still spend the same amount on them overall (plus a few bucks for changing them over etc). Thinking about it if anyone wants a free set of Pilot Alpins and can pick them up from western Switzerland let me know! They weren't taken when I sold my car.
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Nov 5, 2020 10:04
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'd argue those are times where it's not 2WD, or the fact that your two wheels being driven are on the back, that's your limiting factor. yeah you are snowplowing. i have gotten a subaru forester on hakkas stuck because the clearance is like 8.5" and there were 12" of snow.
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Nov 5, 2020 12:18
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:yeah you are snowplowing. i have gotten a subaru forester on hakkas stuck because the clearance is like 8.5" and there were 12" of snow. I managed to ford a section of freshly drifted in highway last winter while the snow was just puking down. It was a bit over 3 feet of pow, and high enough to form a bow wave and come entirely up my hood to the windscreen (!!) It was just dumping snow like mad and it hadn't set up yet at all or that would have been an unpleasant end to the drive, as there was no way I could have gotten moving again if I'd come to a stop. I wish I'd had a dashcam because it was way too white knuckly to snap a pic but it was amazing. Car in question was 2005 V70R (haldex awd) with blizzak ws80s. Note that (for my car) it was necessary to have traction control and stability control entirely disabled in order to force acceleration during wheelspin - with TC on at all the fight for traction would rob momentum until the car halted.
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Nov 5, 2020 14:43
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yeah usually you are fine if you are going through it temporarily like in a drift or if the snow is light enough, but this was nasty sticky New England spring poo poo that just kind of piled up
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Nov 5, 2020 14:45
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PittTheElder posted:I wound up not buying anything, but a couple months ago I called my (Canadian) bank, asked them what sort of interest rate I'd get on a car loan through them; I've been banking with them forever and have excellent credit, even still it was "yeah 7%". Don't understand how that happens in the time of 0% central bank loans. It's specifically a Canadian problem; the banks all mimic each other so they don't have to compete too hard. I was able to get a better rate than 7%, but it's a pain to see the central bank rates a quarter point apart (if that) and the retail auto loan rates more than two points apart.
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Nov 5, 2020 15:23
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If a VIN lookup shows an accident with deployed airbags, but it's a regular clean title, is it worth consideration if it's maybe $4000 less than an equal mileage/year/make/model without deployed airbags? I'd also be having it checked out by a third party mechanic, but my understanding is that any airbag deployment accident means the car is forever at risk of undiagnosed frame or body issues that might get worse over time.
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Nov 6, 2020 20:58
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post the carfax or whatever edit: but the answer is probably no
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Nov 6, 2020 21:23
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Not a chance in hell would I opt for a car with a deployed airbag collision on its record to save 4,000 dollars.
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Nov 6, 2020 21:29
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Airbag deploy = nope Don't most insurance companies just total out airbag deploys most of the time? It's not something to be taken lightly. Guinness fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Nov 7, 2020 |
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Nov 7, 2020 00:59
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Guinness posted:Airbag deploy = nope Yeah, I'm actually pretty surprised it's not. Anything relatively modern with most directions of airbag deployment is like minimum of windshield/dash/front seats/A and B pillar trim plus all those bags, plus seatbelt pre-tensioners as well as replacement of all seatbelts that were occupied. Forget the damage that caused the deployment to happen, just they deployment is enough to total most things.
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Nov 7, 2020 01:07
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Motronic posted:Yeah, I'm actually pretty surprised it's not. Anything relatively modern with most directions of airbag deployment is like minimum of windshield/dash/front seats/A and B pillar trim plus all those bags, plus seatbelt pre-tensioners as well as replacement of all seatbelts that were occupied. Forget the damage that caused the deployment to happen, just they deployment is enough to total most things.  That was over $17k in damage. Drivers side airbags deployed. No frame damage or anything. The car was less than a month old so they didn't total it.
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Nov 7, 2020 02:44
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| # ? Jun 12, 2024 08:59 |
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Are there any opinions on 2020 Civics? I test-drove a Si and thought it was neat, but all the dealers around here want at least MSRP for them, and I'm not sure I have the energy to learn how to drive one correctly. Old Si's were the cars we drooled over in high school, but now I see is for what is it - a slightly faster economy car with a shifter that's nice, but not as magical as the auto press makes it sound. I was pretty impressed by all the tech stuff, and the top trims look like they're getting ok discounts around now.
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Nov 8, 2020 18:48
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