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tylertfb posted:I don't mess with that rotary broaching dark magic I would if we had the tools in the shop This is the black magic for those that are curious. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWyHJVOxKK4&t=444s To flat tire guy. That sure is weird, I don't see anything in the rim to cause that. Are you positive its on the "bottom" of the tube and isn't on the side and possibly caused by pinching? Are you using tire levers to install the tire? Have you switched tube brands? Possible its a bad batch.
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Nov 5, 2020 03:42
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eSporks posted:Coward. Make your own. Two brands of tubes purchased years apart, no levers for installation, punctures aren’t in the same area as the last bit of head over the rim. Quite sure about the orientation by now. None of it makes sense.
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Nov 5, 2020 04:08
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ExecuDork posted:Almost related: my left-side crank bolt keeps getting loose. I have to tighten it every day or my left pedal arm gets wobbly. Even loose, it's inside the crank arm, while the other side sticks out a few millimetres. Other than just tightening this thing daily until I get around to replacing one/all of the chainrings, is there something I can do to keep my bike from falling apart? I'm assuming this is a square-taper crank. You need to replace the left arm, the taper is hosed and can't be repaired. A LBS that does a lot of repairs on old bikes should have replacements on hand.
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Nov 5, 2020 04:24
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:This is the location of the puncture last night, about 2 o clock if the valve hole is noon: Are those not little cuts in the rim strip?
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Nov 5, 2020 06:14
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Might be. I still vote slap a velox strip on there and see if you still have an issue.
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Nov 5, 2020 06:45
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SimonSays posted:I'm assuming this is a square-taper crank. You need to replace the left arm, the taper is hosed and can't be repaired. A LBS that does a lot of repairs on old bikes should have replacements on hand. Yes, square-taper. The LBS I prefer assured me they do plenty of old bikes when I first visited them, so I'll check in with them. This might mean I need a new complete bottom bracket, right? We'll see how that fits the budget if so...
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Nov 5, 2020 07:30
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ExecuDork posted:Yes, square-taper. The LBS I prefer assured me they do plenty of old bikes when I first visited them, so I'll check in with them. This might mean I need a new complete bottom bracket, right? We'll see how that fits the budget if so... BB might be fine, crank arm typically fails first.
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Nov 5, 2020 07:32
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A new crank would solve the last major issue with this bike, that the middle chainring is badly worn. The ramps identified before are not the problem; there are several teeth that are distinctly shorter and rounder than others on that ring. I'll see what the LBS can quote me for parts, and for labour. I'm guessing replacing a crank and both crank-arms is within my capabilities, while (from what I've gathered) a complete BB replacement requires some special tools.
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Nov 5, 2020 07:35
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tylertfb posted:I don't mess with that rotary broaching dark magic I would if we had the tools in the shop TOT has a good 'splainer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-3gPWl6wfU
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Nov 5, 2020 10:51
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LBS had some velox tape, and the 5min test spin I had time for didn't blow a tube, so maybe that's really what it was. I'll know for sure when I try for a longer ride. It amazes me that the difference between tape brands could be that significant, but there you are.
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Nov 5, 2020 21:36
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Poking the hole for the valve is a pain in the dick but I really like velox tape in my non-tubeless setups.
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Nov 5, 2020 21:37
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:LBS had some velox tape, and the 5min test spin I had time for didn't blow a tube, so maybe that's really what it was. I'll know for sure when I try for a longer ride. It amazes me that the difference between tape brands could be that significant, but there you are. Electrical tape usually works though, hopefully the velox fixes your issue.
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Nov 5, 2020 21:55
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eSporks posted:Velox is stiff, electrical tape is stretchy and can sink in to the spoke holes after inflation. It was electrical tape on top of cloth rim tape before, which was why I was so amazed and frustrated.
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Nov 5, 2020 22:07
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If it solves it I have no idea why, but will be happy on your behalf.
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Nov 6, 2020 03:31
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bicievino posted:If it solves it I have no idea why, but will be happy on your behalf. He has a poltergeist it's not gear related.
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Nov 6, 2020 04:39
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35 min warming up on the rollers during a zoom lecture and then 30 miles outside without trouble, maybe it's a poltergeist with an extremely specific brand loyalty.
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Nov 7, 2020 00:48
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So the chain snapped on my MTB and I replaced it with a new one- but now it skips on the smaller cogs in the back. I suppose that means my cassette is worn out? If so, do I need to replace it with the same 8-speed Shimano model, or could I just use this SRAM one that costs half as much? https://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Bicycle...eed+cas&sr=8-12
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Nov 8, 2020 20:39
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Take a pic of your cassette, focusing on the cogs that skip. Did you size the chain to match the old one?
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Nov 8, 2020 21:00
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Dropped my bike off at the LBS for the loose left-side crank arm on Saturday. They were busy, but the employee had a quick look and thought it might just need that arm. I showed him the worn chainring and we talked about a new crank set (which would include both arms) and maybe a new BB, depending on what they find. He just called me and said I need all that plus a new rear gearset (it's not a cassette, he said, it's a screw-on something, but whatever) and a new chain, bike's not safe without that. So costs are getting up a bit higher, but the upshot is I'll get 7 gears at the rear wheel instead of the 5 I've currently got, and a pretty much all new drivetrain. For between $200 and $300, and I asked him to make sure the costs don't spiral out of control. He understood, I think, that my bike is not worth pouring too much money into. I've been commuting by bike for 4 weeks and I've decided I like it too much to let something like this stop me. This might push back my plans to buy myself a mountain bike to play on the trails here, but I'm looking forward to trying again to conquer the hill that defines my commute. I'm back on the bus for the next few days. Oh well.
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Nov 9, 2020 06:00
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ExecuDork posted:Dropped my bike off at the LBS for the loose left-side crank arm on Saturday. They were busy, but the employee had a quick look and thought it might just need that arm. I showed him the worn chainring and we talked about a new crank set (which would include both arms) and maybe a new BB, depending on what they find. Ultimately if you're happy with a new drivetrain that's great but this does feel a little like upselling, I don't see how even a super lovely worn out drivetrain would be 'unsafe'. Was your chain skipping all over the place before? How much is the whole bike worth? Please consider that this 12 speed drivetrain is $289. Are you getting something similar for what you're paying? If you still have the opportunity I would expect that just a new set of cranks +/- a BB would absolutely get you back on track with your bike.
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Nov 9, 2020 06:48
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ExecuDork posted:plus a new rear gearset (it's not a cassette, he said, it's a screw-on something, but whatever) Freewheel. A freewheel can be a single cog, a bmx bike, or multi cog.
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Nov 9, 2020 09:41
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Cheap shimano 12speed is a great value but I doubt it’ll fit in any old bike.
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Nov 9, 2020 09:43
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VelociBacon posted:Ultimately if you're happy with a new drivetrain that's great but this does feel a little like upselling, I don't see how even a super lovely worn out drivetrain would be 'unsafe'. Was your chain skipping all over the place before? I've crashed from this. High torque during shifting, chain pops off, foot slips, eat pavement.
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Nov 9, 2020 15:09
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If the rings and freewheel are so old they no longer interface with a new chain it could definitely be necessary to change everything. Honestly though unless you really like the bike it'd probably be worth it to put that kind of money into a new bike.
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Nov 9, 2020 16:34
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EvilJoven posted:If the rings and freewheel are so old they no longer interface with a new chain it could definitely be necessary to change everything. Of the 3 wear parts of a drivetrain, the chain wears out fastest. Usually cassette is second, chainrings will last the longest. At least for me. But a lot of people new to bikes don't replace the chain when it is required, not do they do regular preventative maintenance. And that in turn leads to excess wear on the cassette and chainrings. So but the time the chain needs replacing because of failure, other parts of the drivetrain have been ground to dust. I sometimes do maintenance for my fellow cycling friends and I am amazed by their lack of care. And the stuff they use is expensive. Chain, cassette and cogs can easily go for over $500. Just a few minutes a week of wiping down your chain will keep your drivetrain going for much longer. One of the great things about a $500 bike is the face that it is $500. But if you try to replace just a few of the major parts, you can easily spend half the cost of the bike. Case in point, replacing the drivetrain. I'll second EJ here, unless you really like the bike, part it out, sell or store the remaining good parts, and enjoy your new bike.
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Nov 9, 2020 19:04
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EvilJoven posted:
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Nov 9, 2020 23:57
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Long stupid post deleted. I like my bike. I'm happy to pay for new parts to be put on my old frame, I'm looking forward to what I'm hoping will be essentially a new bike.
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Nov 10, 2020 00:05
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Hey if you like the bike, go for it. A new drivetrain in an older bike isn't a waste of money as long as the frame and wheels are in decent shape. Enjoy that new drivetrain feeling!
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Nov 10, 2020 00:31
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Cat rear end Trophy posted:Fuuuuuucckkkk! Figure it out? My guess: pedal bearing!
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Nov 10, 2020 01:36
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How important is cone nut preload on cartridge bearings? I'm rebuilding a hub for the first time and have no idea what I'm doing but it's going well. Also, I assume that if I can turn the big ring on the cassette relative to the little one when it's on the freehub the splines on the freehub are probably trashed, c/d? It's a sram mth 746 hub btw meowmeowmeowmeow fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Nov 10, 2020 |
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Nov 10, 2020 03:28
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Figure it out? Good guess. I had checked it early in the process and it was not it. I am running egg beaters, and I did have a bearing go bad on the ones I used on my trainer bike. I had put a pair of Ultegra 3 bolts on the gravel bike, and unfortunately still had the noise. Thanks though.
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Nov 10, 2020 06:14
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Cat rear end Trophy posted:Good guess. I had checked it early in the process and it was not it. I am running egg beaters, and I did have a bearing go bad on the ones I used on my trainer bike. I had put a pair of Ultegra 3 bolts on the gravel bike, and unfortunately still had the noise. Thanks for the follow up. I had a bearing issue that was only discovered after plenty of swearing and a bottom bracket replacement. 
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Nov 10, 2020 17:33
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Update on my frankenbike: The shop called this morning and I popped in for a chat. As they were working on it they decided I would also need new derailleurs (front and rear) and at that point costs were starting to get out of hand. I'm not sure how much they did before they stopped - it looked like they got as far as installing the new BB and crankset - and how much I'll need to pay for regardless. We decided to stop work on the bike, and we talked about the new bikes they have for sale on the floor - I'll move that discussion to the megathread. I'm thinking I'll pay for the work they did and take my unrideable frankenbike home to either part it out (not that the parts are worth anything, but there are accessories like lights I've added that I need to pull to use on my next bike) or just let it sit in the garage until I find a good deal on second-hand derailleurs on eBay or whatever. Long-term, I'd be able to slowly get it back to rideable with the luxury of time and no sense of urgency. I still like my bike, but if I want to keep commuting by bike (and I do, the bus is annoying) I'll need to replace my ride. But it has taught me that I actually like turning a wrench and messing about with it on the weekend, and I'm 100% convinced I want to commute by bike, so this junkyard frankenbike has been entirely worthwhile for the month of commuting (21 workdays) I got out of it.
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Nov 12, 2020 02:30
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ExecuDork posted:Update on my frankenbike: The shop called this morning and I popped in for a chat. As they were working on it they decided I would also need new derailleurs (front and rear) and at that point costs were starting to get out of hand. I'm not sure how much they did before they stopped - it looked like they got as far as installing the new BB and crankset - and how much I'll need to pay for regardless. We decided to stop work on the bike, and we talked about the new bikes they have for sale on the floor - I'll move that discussion to the megathread. This kind of thing is why I never feel bad about buying poo poo online. Let us know more about your bike and your general area and I bet we can find the parts you'd need on pinkbike to get it going perfectly for under $100.
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Nov 12, 2020 03:09
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VelociBacon posted:This kind of thing is why I never feel bad about buying poo poo online. EDIT: Location is Australia, "regional" New South Wales in the city of Armidale. Some things have silly shipping costs because they can come in from the rest of the world to Sydney or Melbourne, but then putting them on a truck to drive up the hill suddenly costs a lot extra. But most things seem to have reasonable shipping, and I have Amazon Prime for things available through that. ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Nov 12, 2020 |
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Nov 12, 2020 04:45
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Apologies for the apparent double post. I bought a new bike and brought my old bike home from the shop. My plan is to swap accessories over to my new bike (lights, computer, pedals with toe-clips, kick-stand) and then lurk various used-parts places for what I need to get the bike back to rideable:
One possibility is to buy a cheap second hand beater bike with compatible parts and strip it - and yes, I'd rather make my old bike good with parts from an equal-quality donor than go the other direction. I like my bike! There's a Malvern Star rigid-frame MTB chained to a post on campus with flat tires and the same Shimano combined shifter/brake assemblies that had a sign: "$50 or next offer" before a storm blew the sign away. That might be a suitable donor for this fun little project, if the seller replaces the sign so I can get the phone number. \/\/\/\/ Good point. I'll go over it this weekend and get as many specific details up as I can work out. Off the top of my head, it's a Shogun Metro, size 46 cm. The combined brake lever and shifter units are Shimano ST-EF20. The existing, worn out crankset is Shimano as well, but I don't know the details right now. ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Nov 13, 2020 |
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Nov 13, 2020 02:17
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We need info on your current bike so we can find parts.
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Nov 13, 2020 02:26
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kimbo305 posted:Take a pic of your cassette, focusing on the cogs that skip. Here are the cogs that skip (the smallest 3). I think they’re pretty worn? 
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Nov 13, 2020 17:30
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Rock My Socks! posted:Here are the cogs that skip (the smallest 3). I think they’re pretty worn? They don't look that worn to me, but if it's skipping, it's skipping. In the meantime, make sure the chain is the correct length and the derailleur cage isn't completely slack. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Nov 14, 2020 |
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Nov 14, 2020 01:05
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Rock My Socks! posted:Here are the cogs that skip (the smallest 3). I think they’re pretty worn? Which chainring are you using usually? And what cadence do you pedal at?
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Nov 14, 2020 03:43
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