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BraveUlysses posted:pass the crack pipe, covid 19 edition That second one would probably pull $25k easy on BaT with that mileage.
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Oct 28, 2020 05:16
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They bought it from EAG, so probably losing money too!
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Oct 28, 2020 05:58
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This wagon is either amazing or the first step down a bad road https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/pts/d/antelope-bmw-e46-325i-wagon-touring/7221468398.html
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Oct 28, 2020 06:32
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Man that thing owns! Ugh I'm sure it would be a headache but that's like a perfect car to me lol
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Oct 28, 2020 06:57
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That thing definitely owns, if the S54 swap is done it would be a similar vein to the S62 swapped e39 wagon that was on BaT the other day.
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Oct 28, 2020 07:48
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I could sell my ZHP, purchase this, and ultimately have a more practical car...
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Oct 28, 2020 16:40
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Shame about the salvage title
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Oct 28, 2020 17:00
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Shadowhand00 posted:I could sell my ZHP, purchase this, and ultimately have a more practical box that occasionally moves under its own power Fixed
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Oct 28, 2020 17:01
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BlackMK4 posted:Shame about the salvage title
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Oct 29, 2020 21:01
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Yikes, and really buried in the post. as is tradition
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Oct 29, 2020 21:12
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I had a shop do a brake flush today and I had them go ahead and measure the rotors since I'm getting close to needing to replace pads anyway. Guess who will need new front rotors when I do the pads!!! 
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Nov 3, 2020 05:40
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fknlo posted:I had a shop do a brake flush today and I had them go ahead and measure the rotors since I'm getting close to needing to replace pads anyway. Guess who will need new front rotors when I do the pads!!! See, if you had gotten the carbon ceramics you wouldn’t be in such a predicament now. It would be so, so much worse.
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Nov 3, 2020 05:47
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The trick is to never use your brakes.
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Nov 3, 2020 05:52
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Ultimate Mango posted:See, if you had gotten the carbon ceramics you wouldn’t be in such a predicament now. I don't think you could have paid me to have gotten a ccb car. I would have dropped a wheel on one the first time I put winters on. Ether Frenzy posted:The trick is to never use your brakes. I can't remember what the pad thickness was, but the shop that did the PPI told me I had maybe 10k miles left on the pads. That was 14,000 miles ago and I still have 7mm left on the fronts and 4mm on the rears 
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Nov 3, 2020 05:59
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Engine braking all the way.
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Nov 3, 2020 06:56
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Nov 3, 2020 09:44
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 gently caress. For reference, that's the reservoir for the charge cooler. I got a drivetrain malfunction warning today that went away but pulled the codes when I got home and it showed the one associated with this. Basically, the stock unit will eventually leak and need to be replaced. Time to figure out how much money I want to spend.
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Nov 9, 2020 00:40
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I remember researching and seeing there are solid aftermarket ones
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Nov 9, 2020 00:56
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The Big Jesus posted:I remember researching and seeing there are solid aftermarket ones There are. Hence the how much I want to spend part. There's a really common one that works and can be had for $500 that a ton of other companies just rebrand. It's made in china and doesn't look great, but like I said, it seems to work fine. Then there are the others. They generally run in the $1500-2000 range. I've been researching for a while trying to figure out what I want to run. I think I might go with the Mishimoto one and grab the package that has their charge pipes and upgraded heat exchanger as well. The whole package runs around what some of the other stand alone coolers run.
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Nov 9, 2020 01:06
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Out of curiosity how many miles do you have on your car?
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Nov 9, 2020 02:15
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The Big Jesus posted:Out of curiosity how many miles do you have on your car? It's a 2015 with just under 45k miles.
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Nov 9, 2020 02:41
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BraveUlysses posted:pass the crack pipe, covid 19 edition WHAT OH MY GOD LOL Shadowhand00 posted:This wagon is either amazing or the first step down a bad road ZHP replica wagons are good and you will be a good person for continuing its life. e: RIP. 
Crunchy Black fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Nov 9, 2020 |
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Nov 9, 2020 02:57
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Any opinions on the akebono/zimmerman aftermarket brakes as compared to OEM? They are a lot cheaper but brakes are kind of, yknow, important.
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Nov 9, 2020 23:06
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Any opinions on the akebono/zimmerman aftermarket brakes as compared to OEM? They are a lot cheaper but brakes are kind of, yknow, important. Running this combo on an 05 ZHP and its been great. Low dust, stops good, A+ would run again.
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Nov 10, 2020 01:14
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that's good to know, a complete OEM kit for the E39 isn't too bad, something like 800 bucks, but the Zimmerman one is like 650 so i'd prefer to save the money. i replaced the aux fan on the E39 this weekend. not too bad, probably took about 2.5-3 hours in total. You do have to take apart the entire front of the car because :germany: i found two clever things that one of the brain dead POs had done 1) for the exterior temp sensor, when the wires pulled out, instead of fixing the connector and reseating it properly, the dude had just jammed the bare wires in to the connector and then wrapped it with a yard of electrical tape. it worked, but when i had to remove the sensor i couldn't get it detached and could not figure out why. then of course nobody is stocking the correct bits to rebuild the connector, but fortunately there's a rebuild kit on the internet 2) instead of using the correct 8mm hex head bolts to secure the wheel liner to the underside of the bumper, the fucker used phillips head screws. since these screws are recessed and point straight down at the ground this was an unholy pain in the rear end to identify what was going on and then to actually unscrew them. they are of course corroded because why not.  these are not the same. gently caress yooooou
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Nov 10, 2020 14:34
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Speaking of not being "that" PO. Assuming that it's a pain in the arse and wallet to get OEM screws / bolts. Are there any good general guidelines for replacing stuff that's missing and you have no real idea what should be there. Like how the threads are shaped. Should one go hex / philips etc etc.
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Nov 10, 2020 18:26
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MrOnBicycle posted:Speaking of not being "that" PO. Assuming that it's a pain in the arse and wallet to get OEM screws / bolts. Are there any good general guidelines for replacing stuff that's missing and you have no real idea what should be there. Like how the threads are shaped. Should one go hex / philips etc etc. It's not incredibly easy, but RealOEM is a good start. Input the last 7 of your VIN and it will fill out that form at the bottom with info for your car and then you can browse parts. It's split into different categories and sometimes it's hard to find what you need, but it will give you a diagram and a parts list. You just have to look on the diagram for the part you need and then find it in the list. It's not super intuitive to know what category you need to be in when you're just in the engine bay and you don't know whether some bracket is technically part of the AC system or if it's part of the chassis or something, but you can eventually find it and see what the part number is. Then you can see if it is on amazon, or FCP Euro or ECS or wherever.
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Nov 10, 2020 18:43
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Cojawfee posted:It's not incredibly easy, but RealOEM is a good start. Input the last 7 of your VIN and it will fill out that form at the bottom with info for your car and then you can browse parts. It's split into different categories and sometimes it's hard to find what you need, but it will give you a diagram and a parts list. You just have to look on the diagram for the part you need and then find it in the list. It's not super intuitive to know what category you need to be in when you're just in the engine bay and you don't know whether some bracket is technically part of the AC system or if it's part of the chassis or something, but you can eventually find it and see what the part number is. Then you can see if it is on amazon, or FCP Euro or ECS or wherever. That's a great site. Shame it's for BMW only (although I did ask in a BMW thread). I will be saving that link for if I ever buy a BMW though. Thanks. 
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Nov 10, 2020 19:04
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MrOnBicycle posted:That's a great site. Shame it's for BMW only (although I did ask in a BMW thread). I will be saving that link for if I ever buy a BMW though. Thanks. I don't know if it's at all similar, but they have a link to other parts catalogs. https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/
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Nov 10, 2020 19:07
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I've run the Hawk/Akebono combo on multiple e36m3s and the ZHP wagon, no complaints. Now, I may just up and sell the M2 when it needs brakes though... 
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Nov 10, 2020 19:46
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Crunchy Black posted:I've run the Hawk/Akebono combo on multiple e36m3s and the ZHP wagon, no complaints. Now, I may just up and sell the M2 when it needs brakes though... Pads alone aren’t terrible. Actually, maybe they are for the comp? No idea there. I’m gonna have to do the front rotors when I change mine of course. Gonna be dropping a lot of money on the M3 over the next few months between pads/rotors and the charger cooler. The joys of M car ownership!
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Nov 10, 2020 20:19
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MrOnBicycle posted:Speaking of not being "that" PO. Assuming that it's a pain in the arse and wallet to get OEM screws / bolts. Are there any good general guidelines for replacing stuff that's missing and you have no real idea what should be there. Like how the threads are shaped. Should one go hex / philips etc etc. most of the major hardware companies have cross-references because all screws and bolts conform to various standards. if you have the original part number, you can definitely find the specs and possibly grab it at the hardware store. i am fine just spending a buck twenty from the BMW dealer on what should be a sixty cent bolt tho
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Nov 10, 2020 20:28
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fknlo posted:Pads alone aren’t terrible. Actually, maybe they are for the comp? No idea there. I’m gonna have to do the front rotors when I change mine of course. Gonna be dropping a lot of money on the M3 over the next few months between pads/rotors and the charger cooler. The joys of M car ownership! They're not technically carbon-ceramic but they're loving huge. I had to have them replace EVERYTHING struts down at 2000 miles because they didn't bed properly, or something, not that they instructed me on an actual procedure. I'd have to dig the invoice up but the warranty work totaled more than 3k and the biggest M dealership in Atlanta had to wait 2 weeks on parts from ze Fatherland to even do it.
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Nov 10, 2020 20:37
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Soooo, thoughts on the iX?
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Nov 11, 2020 20:24
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 https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/d/los-altos-2005-bmw-x5-30i-speed-manual/7223352807.html What could go wrong?
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Nov 11, 2020 20:46
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Hell yes, look forward to a trip report on that ownership experience
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Nov 11, 2020 21:25
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I was actually thinking of a manual X5 as a nicer winter car than my Subaru, which is reliable and plasticy and doesn’t abuse me and take my money like my other Subaru. Are there any big things to look out for other than normal wear items and the GDCS? I have a garage, a lift, tools, and some experience.
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Nov 11, 2020 21:38
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Duzzy Funlop posted:Soooo, thoughts on the iX? Ya it looks like Mr. Yunioshi but a car.
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Nov 11, 2020 22:03
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Duzzy Funlop posted:Soooo, thoughts on the iX? Whatever trim that red one is, is ugly as poo poo. Looks better in that sand color they've been showing. It's still ugly as sin, that grill is atrocious but I'd much rather have an iX than the Model X which is massively stupid piece of poo poo made by a company that barely knows how to put a car together. They'll sell a bunch, that's my prediction.
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Nov 13, 2020 17:50
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kronix posted:Whatever trim that red one is, is ugly as poo poo. Looks better in that sand color they've been showing. The Bugs Bunny look is growing on me, so when this, the iX3 and i4 finally arrive then it will require a serious look and consideration. With covid restrictions, the cars just sit, so I'm stuck on the fence. Use one of these for weekly use and keep the missus's X1 for weekend long distance trips or go single 3xxe / x3e Hybrid. Or say screw it, G80 M3 , pay Shell the carbon credit offset and be all smug. Fuller9x fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Nov 13, 2020 |
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Nov 13, 2020 18:25
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