|
ought ten posted:Hey, what's that stripped screw extractor pliers thing that always gets recommended? PZ-58
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2020 21:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 15:30 |
|
|
That’s the one. Thank you.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2020 21:23
|
|
|
Went out for a short ride today, and after about 40 minutes I was hearing a buzzing that sounded like it was like near the front fender, but turned out to be RPM dependent. Brought it home, and revved it a bit in the driveway (apologies about aspect ratio): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJLSkE2PVhk How worried should I be about that rattling? Any ideas as to what it could be?
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2020 22:20
|
|
|
Phone posted:Went out for a short ride today, and after about 40 minutes I was hearing a buzzing that sounded like it was like near the front fender, but turned out to be RPM dependent. Brought it home, and revved it a bit in the driveway (apologies about aspect ratio): Cam chain tensioner?
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2020 22:32
|
|
|
Phone posted:Went out for a short ride today, and after about 40 minutes I was hearing a buzzing that sounded like it was like near the front fender, but turned out to be RPM dependent. Brought it home, and revved it a bit in the driveway (apologies about aspect ratio): That is a bad noise. As above I'd look at the cam chain area first. I'd suggest not riding the bike until you fix it. How handy are you?
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2020 22:46
|
|
|
I have tools and some know how. Never have gone into a motorcycle engine or mess with timing chains. E: where on the spectrum is that noise? From “you might get lucky” to “time to get a new engine”? Phone fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Oct 31, 2020 |
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2020 23:03
|
|
|
Ok well luckily a japanese single is a really good starting point. First take apart the bike enough that you can access the cam cover, take the cam cover off and have a look at how much tension there is physically on the chain between the two cams, as well as checking for any damage etc. Post a video if you aren't sure. The noise doesn't sound like anything fatal, it sounds like the cam chain flapping around like mad. If everything seems ok, whip out the tensioner (two screws, sticks out the side of engine, you can see it at the start of the video) and have a look to see if that's damaged or the internal spring has failed. 90% of the time if it's a Honda and it's making a noise, it's either the CCT or moron mechanics.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2020 23:11
|
|
|
Alright, I’ll go find the repair manual and go from there. I’m pretty sure that I’ve heard this noise on my previous rides, but it doesn’t show up until 40+ min into the ride. I don’t know if that’s a common symptom to anything, though.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2020 23:14
|
|
|
Honda normally use a tensioner that has both a spring and a hydraulic function fed by engine oil pressure. If it's happening some distance into your ride it's because something is happening with temperature; my guess is too-thin oil reducing the hydraulic pressure in the tensioner, or a worn chain that stretches past the tensioner's useable travel when everything is hot.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2020 00:00
|
|
|
I am trying to pick up a new Triumph Scrambler tomorrow. I have broken in many dirt bike engines but this will be my first street bike. Any huge differences between the two? I used to break my dirt bikes in on the street in my old neighborhood so I would imagine the break in process shouldn't be much different. Any advice appreciated.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2020 02:30
|
|
|
The Sheriff Jake posted:I am trying to pick up a new Triumph Scrambler tomorrow. I have broken in many dirt bike engines but this will be my first street bike. Any huge differences between the two? I used to break my dirt bikes in on the street in my old neighborhood so I would imagine the break in process shouldn't be much different. Any advice appreciated. I'd be astonished if it needs any kind of special break in procedure, that's not really a thing on modern road bikes anymore. Generally it'll be something like don't exceed 2/3rds throttle, don't exceed 2/3rds of the available revs, avoid long periods of idling or constant speed, change the oil after 1,000km. But in reality this is all massive overkill because the bike has to meet euro 4 out of the box and is basically pre-broken in from the factory. The owner's manual has the final word ultimately.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2020 03:42
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:I'd be astonished if it needs any kind of special break in procedure, that's not really a thing on modern road bikes anymore. Generally it'll be something like don't exceed 2/3rds throttle, don't exceed 2/3rds of the available revs, avoid long periods of idling or constant speed, change the oil after 1,000km. Thanks dude, I just downloaded the manual and it pretty much said the same thing as you did. The dealer is setting up the bike now and hopefully will be picking it up later this afternoon.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2020 20:39
|
|
|
I'm moving back to California soon. I have a 2010 Triumph Bonneville, did an air injection delete a while back. Do motorcycles require emissions tests, or are they still exempt? It was originally a CA bike so it's got a vapor canister, and I could probably get the AI system back on pretty easy, but it's a hassle.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2020 04:17
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:I'm moving back to California soon. I have a 2010 Triumph Bonneville, did an air injection delete a while back. Do motorcycles require emissions tests, or are they still exempt? It was originally a CA bike so it's got a vapor canister, and I could probably get the AI system back on pretty easy, but it's a hassle. None that I’m aware of. A lot of restrictions on what you can buy and install but only enforced if a cop is feeling particularly ambitious as far as I know.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2020 04:41
|
|
|
No smog tests or inspections for bike in CA, amazingly enough.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2020 05:10
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:I'm moving back to California soon. I have a 2010 Triumph Bonneville, did an air injection delete a while back. Do motorcycles require emissions tests, or are they still exempt? It was originally a CA bike so it's got a vapor canister, and I could probably get the AI system back on pretty easy, but it's a hassle. you got more than 7500 miles? no problem no matter what. less than 7500 miles? the dmv guy will check for the CARB marking on the exhaust pipe.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2020 20:12
|
|
|
Anyone got an idea on good hard panniers for my Super Ténéré? Touratech is awesome but pricey, but I want some sort of good hard case on each side.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2020 05:03
|
|
|
Mr. Wiggles posted:Anyone got an idea on good hard panniers for my Super Ténéré? Touratech is awesome but pricey, but I want some sort of good hard case on each side. I have Bumot panniers on my GS - they fit well, are solid, and functional w/o the $$$$$ price tag
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2020 05:37
|
|
|
Greg12 posted:you got more than 7500 miles? no problem no matter what. poo poo I didn't know CA even had a possible inspection of your bike, although I've only dealt with bikes that were originally sold in CA
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2020 08:55
|
|
|
Mr. Wiggles posted:Anyone got an idea on good hard panniers for my Super Ténéré? Touratech is awesome but pricey, but I want some sort of good hard case on each side. Jazzzzz posted:I have Bumot panniers on my GS - they fit well, are solid, and functional w/o the $$$$$ price tag ya bumot is the best out there for the least amount of money. jesse luggage I think makes cheaper panniers, but they look like rear end imho sw motech also makes boxes, but I'd imagine they'd be touratech priced if I were you I'd check the flea market section of advrider as well as ebay. I got my boxes for my KTM for super cheap off of both (~$250 a piece instead of $550 a piece new) e: also if you don't care about looks / locks you can just throw some pelican cases on your rack 
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2020 14:05
|
|
|
Hey all, I had to buy a new speedometer for my 2020 dr650; the replacement seems to bolt up just fine but it doesn't actually work (I took it around the block and the needle jiggles but doesn't move the mileage went up a tenth of a mile though. I think I've messed up inserting the speedometer cable, but I'm not sure what to do differently? Should it slot in? I'd be happy to take pictures if needed, I'm not sure how obvious or simple of an issue this is.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2020 19:46
|
|
|
The cable has a square end that goes into the speedo, that needs to engage with the square drive part inside. I suggest taking the cable off at both ends and making sure it isn't broken halfway down, then plug the wheel end back in and spin the wheel to see if the cable turns, in case the drive hub is the problem.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2020 20:29
|
|
|
You can slide the internal rotating cable out of the sleeve. I’d do that, make sure the square drives engage at the hub, then slide the sleeve back down and screw it on. Then as Slavvy said, rotate the wheel and see if the cable spins at the Speedo end
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2020 20:38
|
|
|
Whelp, you're exactly right; the squared off cable end does rotate at all when I walk the bike forwards or backwards a yard or two in my garage/drive way. I assume that's enough wheel movement that it should move? If so, I'll order another cable.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2020 22:30
|
|
|
It’s super unlikely the cable is broken in the middle. Regardless it will just pull straight out of the sheath. Take it out and inspect it. If it’s in one piece, then your problem is in the wheel hub My goldwing had a very similar problem. Speedo stopped working all of a sudden, then would only flicker to 5mph or so as I rode. It doesn’t have a cable but it has the same bevel gear drive as the DR that just drives a Hall effect sensor. My problem is the grease in the wheel hub became so crusty and hard that it bound up the bevel gears. The gears connect to the hub with these two little metal arms that may as well be beer can metal for how flimsy they are. I pulled the bevel gears out, cleaned it all with degreaser, re-greased it, bent the arms back and it was good as new. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Nov 11, 2020 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2020 22:36
|
|
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:It’s super unlikely the cable is broken in the middle. Regardless it will just pull straight out of the sheath. I don't know about that, I've seen loads and loads break in the middle or a few inches from the end, it's the most common mode of failure I've seen and happens much more frequently than the hub or instrument failing. Jack seriously do this: unhook both ends and see if it's still intact all the way through. If that checks out, turn the front wheel and see if the fitting inside the drive unit turns. If that checks out, make triple sure you're plugged into both ends. If that checks out the speedo itself is faulty. It's not rocket surgery, it's a super simple system.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2020 23:20
|
|
|
I'll check it out, it could absolutely be broken near the end because the gauge itself is bent in half.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 00:34
|
|
|
Assuming this is because of your crash, maybe also pull the wheel and check out the speedo drive unit from the hub to make sure nothing in there is hosed.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 00:36
|
|
|
Ohhhhh, if this is post-crash then all bets are off. That cable could be in any state then
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 00:43
|
|
|
Iirc, they’re not a true cable, right? Aren’t they like a super compressed spring in a square cross section? When your bars got hosed up, it could have hyperextended that thing and stretched or snapped it as well. Anyhow, yeah, examine each of the components separately and make sure they watch. Just rolling the bike might not be enough to make it spin obviously enough to see, but it’ll go if you put a drill on one end.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 03:05
|
|
|
My RF-1200 was purchased in June 2016, but when I finally washed the liner recently I saw it was made in the fall of 2015. I'm thinking of doing what looks to be a fairly informal track day in two weeks (I have to make sure I still fit in my leather pants after that covid 10lbs...) but one of their tech inspection rules is your helmet must have been manufactured within the past five years. Think I'll pass inspection? My only other track day was semi-private and super informal and they didn't even look at my helmet, but I don't know how strict people are. I would guess they just look to make sure the helmet doesn't look old and beat up, but for all I know they're pros at finding the actual manufacturing date in a quick manner. I was thinking of just messaging the person responsible for the track day but that would tip them off to my "issue." I'd just buy a new helmet but I'm waiting for the RF-1400s to come out...
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 04:22
|
|
|
MomJeans420 posted:My RF-1200 was purchased in June 2016, but when I finally washed the liner recently I saw it was made in the fall of 2015. I'm thinking of doing what looks to be a fairly informal track day in two weeks (I have to make sure I still fit in my leather pants after that covid 10lbs...) but one of their tech inspection rules is your helmet must have been manufactured within the past five years. Think I'll pass inspection? My only other track day was semi-private and super informal and they didn't even look at my helmet, but I don't know how strict people are. I would guess they just look to make sure the helmet doesn't look old and beat up, but for all I know they're pros at finding the actual manufacturing date in a quick manner. I was thinking of just messaging the person responsible for the track day but that would tip them off to my "issue." It's fall until December 21, maybe you're good.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 05:29
|
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:It's fall until December 21, maybe you're good. In other words does it say "Fall 2015" or does it say "Nov 11th, 2015" (specifically more than 5 years)? Or is it like tires with year+week?
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 14:59
|
|
|
Sorry I forgot the exact date but I think it was September or October 2015 so I'm JUST barely past the date. I could just upgrade to a new RF-1200, which would let me use all my existing accessories and make a lot of sense, but I figured if I got the newest model then when I have to replace visors etc. at least I'll be buying accessories for the new generation.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 16:50
|
|
|
Are there vendors there who will let you demo a helmet if yours gets rejected? If you’re just a month or two over I doubt they’d reject it but you never know! I did a track day this weekend and they didn’t inspect any of my gear, just my bike.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 17:28
|
|
|
I doubt it for this event, but I think I'll just chance it and tell the truth if asked - "I purchased this new in June 2016"
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 17:55
|
|
|
I would hope that they would see it as an edge case and if you explained "yeah I know it's at 5 years but I'm replacing it really soon" like you did here, they'll let you ride. Alternately, maybe they have a helmet you can rent if they're not cool with it? I don't know how it works at track days. The instructor at the last training I went to didn't like my helmet (internal visor) so he gave me a loaner for the day.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2020 18:06
|
|
|
If my FI error light comes on while riding, but when I pull over and turn the bike off and on again the lamp is no longer lit, is there actually an issue with the fuelling system or is it just the electronics bugging out? Haven't noticed any actual problem with the running of the bike. Some mornings when I start it it'll rarely only go up to 500rpm, and the FI lamp will light, but again power cycling fixes it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2020 18:25
|
|
|
It's got a problem but the problem is intermittent. If you are able to get the ecu to flash some codes do that, it will likely have logged a fault.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2020 18:32
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 15:30 |
|
|
Update to my 2020 Suzuki DR650. Most everything seems fine after the crash; I've replaced the headlight bracket, clutch cable adjuster, right front turn signal, and the rear turn brake light cover. The only thing I'm still troubleshooting is the speedometer. I disconnected the cable, connected one end to my drill, and it rotates fine - so it's not broken. But then that leaves the question of why it didn't work when I installed it. I pushed the cable flush into the speedometer, but I worry that either 1) the cable doesn't exactly fit the speedometer I bought, my bike is from 2020 and I think the speedometer is from 08, they look identical but what do I know or 2) even though I pushed the cable in flush I didn't actually slot it properly. Regarding the chance of something being broke in the hub, I have no idea, but there's no visible scuffs or damage on the wheel, hub, forks, etc. Side note; the clutch cable adjuster was snapped in half and just resting in its channel; it finally all fell apart (and stalled the bike) in my drive way, after I'd already both ridden the bike home and subsequently taken the bike around the block for a post-crash test. I'm probably going to take a cue from other forum members and put both a replacement cable and adjuster in my voluminous saddle bags; I wouldn't want to deal with that lurking issue somewhere remote.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2020 15:56
|
|