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Verisimilidude posted:it astounds me that people will spend this much effort making something awesome but then not spend the extra 20 minutes to clean mold lines and drill gun barrels I don't really care about gun barrels because I hate using my hand drill unless I have to and at a glance a dot of black surrounded by the color of the barrel is at least functional. But man do I loving hate mold lines. I buy a lot of models used and no one ever bothers to clean these. I have a friend who is a legit pro painter and the models he sends to people still have obvious mold lines on them. His clients don't seem to be discerning enough to notice. They just want a painted army for the table I guess.
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# ? Nov 12, 2020 01:57 |
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# ? May 18, 2024 06:31 |
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My joke! My loving joke!! *breaks down sobbing*
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# ? Nov 12, 2020 03:01 |
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Atlas Hugged posted:I don't really care about gun barrels because I hate using my hand drill unless I have to and at a glance a dot of black surrounded by the color of the barrel is at least functional. But man do I loving hate mold lines. I buy a lot of models used and no one ever bothers to clean these. I have a friend who is a legit pro painter and the models he sends to people still have obvious mold lines on them. His clients don't seem to be discerning enough to notice. They just want a painted army for the table I guess. I am a fairly thorough mold-line remover and while I'd never skip it, I am consistently amazed just how much time it takes up. Sure, for a single infantry model or a squad, it's not too bad. But especially when plastic kits are increasingly complex and come in a huge number of parts (I normally complete scraping mold lines before assembly) it just feels like forever. Scraping all the terrain in a Dark Uprising box is just soul-destroying. I've started a Gang Stronghold box now and I feel like I've barely got the strength to carry on.
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# ? Nov 12, 2020 18:40 |
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Print 4, 5, and 6 came out the printer. My friends are still convinced they're going to play 40k I think the supports should have been removed before curing? Pictured: a dragonborn paladin, a banana knight, Cloud Strife
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# ? Nov 12, 2020 19:56 |
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Yeah, remove the supports before curing. They're easy to clean up while the resin's still soft and a total pain in the rear end afterwards. Cloud's print failed immediately which suggests the build plate was slightly miscalibrated. It was probably a little bit too far away from the screen on one side or the other, which means the plate probably wasn't entirely level. Either that, or the grooves in the build plate aren't quite deep enough for the first resin layers to 'stick' to. PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Nov 12, 2020 |
# ? Nov 12, 2020 20:21 |
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I always remove all the mold lines before painting. Then I undercoat and find that I in fact only removed about half the loving things, and the gaps I thought were imperceptible are in fact gulfs the size of the grand canyon.
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# ? Nov 12, 2020 20:37 |
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Len posted:Print 4, 5, and 6 came out the printer. My friends are still convinced they're going to play 40k I don't even own a resin printer and I know you take the supports off before curing. What a bunch of jabronis.
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# ? Nov 12, 2020 22:39 |
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Crackbone posted:I don't even own a resin printer and I know you take the supports off before curing. That's what we told the guy who ran those prints for us last night but he was convinced you cut them after
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# ? Nov 12, 2020 23:14 |
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So why are they doing this time consuming expensive task instead of just proxying up a few armies to get a feel for the rules?
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# ? Nov 12, 2020 23:16 |
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Kwyndig posted:So why are they doing this time consuming expensive task instead of just proxying up a few armies to get a feel for the rules? Because "I don't want to just push bases" I'm the only one of us that's played 40k and while it was a decade ago I'm good? It mechanically wasn't that great and the fluff has nothing to do with the generic figures you're printing from thingiverse. I'm on this solely to print goofy poo poo like that banana knight. Or a hydra with danny devito heads.
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# ? Nov 12, 2020 23:19 |
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SiKboy posted:I always remove all the mold lines before painting. Then I undercoat and find that I in fact only removed about half the loving things, and the gaps I thought were imperceptible are in fact gulfs the size of the grand canyon. This. I can spend hours cleaning up a batch of minis then discover a bunch more lines after priming. On other news, this guy is either picking up the pace or is spending more on Facebook ads.
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 00:18 |
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Ugleb posted:This. I can spend hours cleaning up a batch of minis then discover a bunch more lines after priming. https://youtu.be/n-BmKFgJJog
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 00:26 |
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Ugleb posted:This. I can spend hours cleaning up a batch of minis then discover a bunch more lines after priming. What are the blue dots covering?
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 00:26 |
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Bucnasti posted:What are the blue dots covering? Nothing apparently. May just be an artistic photo choice. If you want to see for yourself, kinda https://kingdomdeath.fandom.com/wiki/Easter_Aya
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 00:41 |
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Genghis Cohen posted:I am a fairly thorough mold-line remover and while I'd never skip it, I am consistently amazed just how much time it takes up. Sure, for a single infantry model or a squad, it's not too bad. But especially when plastic kits are increasingly complex and come in a huge number of parts (I normally complete scraping mold lines before assembly) it just feels like forever. I haven't tried it myself, but apparently there's a clever trick to simplify the process. Back when I was assembling skeletons, I was running into the problem of infinite mold lines because for whatever dumb reason, skeleton sprues are broken down by individual loving bones and they're all covered in mold lines. Finding them all takes loving ages and you risk breaking the plastic in the process since the pieces are so thin. While complaining, a guy suggested just brushing on plastic glue and it will affectively "melt" the mold line. Again, no idea if it works, but it might be worth experimenting. SiKboy posted:I always remove all the mold lines before painting. Then I undercoat and find that I in fact only removed about half the loving things, and the gaps I thought were imperceptible are in fact gulfs the size of the grand canyon. This. loving this.
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 01:06 |
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Imagine having that much skill and using it to paint anime fuckdolls. Like being an incredible artist and only drawing anime portraits, or a prolific engineer who only designs buildings to house anime, or a world renowned chef who only cooks anime. It's heartbreaking.
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 01:07 |
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Imagine having that much skill and using it to paint anime fuckdolls. Like being an incredible artist and only drawing anime portraits, or a prolific engineer who only designs buildings to house anime, or a world renowned chef who only cooks anime. It's heartbreaking. They're the only patrons of the arts left. Can't paint on an empty stomach.
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 01:09 |
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yeah, there's a reason so many talented artists spend all their time drawing people's ocs loving and sucking
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 01:46 |
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Atlas Hugged posted:I haven't tried it myself, but apparently there's a clever trick to simplify the process. Back when I was assembling skeletons, I was running into the problem of infinite mold lines because for whatever dumb reason, skeleton sprues are broken down by individual loving bones and they're all covered in mold lines. Finding them all takes loving ages and you risk breaking the plastic in the process since the pieces are so thin. While complaining, a guy suggested just brushing on plastic glue and it will affectively "melt" the mold line. Again, no idea if it works, but it might be worth experimenting. This can work if the moldline is small enough, but I wouldn't do it if the line goes over any detail. And of course it doesn't work on PVC, resin, or metal.
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 02:09 |
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The Moon Monster posted:This can work if the moldline is small enough, but I wouldn't do it if the line goes over any detail. And of course it doesn't work on PVC, resin, or metal. Naturally, but on 200 femurs, it might be worth it.
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 02:54 |
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The Moon Monster posted:This can work if the moldline is small enough, but I wouldn't do it if the line goes over any detail. They're skeletons. If you accidentally mess up some details, just make it look like broken bones, or glob on some dirt/dried flesh or something Or go high-effort and sculpt on some torn and tattered clothes. Even something quick with tissue paper and PVA glue could look appropriate. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 08:12 on Nov 13, 2020 |
# ? Nov 13, 2020 08:10 |
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 10:13 |
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Atlas Hugged posted:Naturally, but on 200 femurs, it might be worth it. Honestly I think just scraping them with the back of a knife or whatever would probably be quicker and easier, you wouldn't have to worry about waiting for the glue to evaporate and the plastic to harden back up for one thing. When I've done the melt a mold line with plastic glue approach it generally took multiple passes to fully get rid of it. Give it a try, though.
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 16:56 |
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this is what this thread is for
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 18:06 |
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it is heresy my dudes
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 18:15 |
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It no joke took me a minute to even register how terrible the paintjob of the guy riding the frog is, because I was taken in by the beauty of putting the Wednesday Frog on tabletop
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# ? Nov 13, 2020 19:44 |
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Midjack posted:Nothing apparently. May just be an artistic photo choice. $60.....
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# ? Nov 14, 2020 12:54 |
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I woke up to this in our 3d printer channel Dudes really doubling down on the bad ideas
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# ? Nov 14, 2020 14:49 |
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It’s always Wednesday somewhere
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# ? Nov 14, 2020 19:34 |
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Len posted:I woke up to this in our 3d printer channel FDM printers can do terrain no problem
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# ? Nov 14, 2020 20:43 |
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Moola posted:FDM printers can do terrain no problem Yeah but so can I and I enjoy making terrain
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# ? Nov 14, 2020 20:44 |
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you should duel the printer and see who makes the best terrain piece
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# ? Nov 15, 2020 01:17 |
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Moola posted:you should duel the printer and see who makes the best terrain piece I will duel this hypothetical printer. Pretty sure all I have to do is bump the table and I win Nerd rear end printer
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# ? Nov 15, 2020 01:23 |
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Moola posted:you should duel the printer and see who makes the best terrain piece Now the man that invented the printer Thought he was mighty fine But the Goon made fifteen hills The printer only made nine, Lord, Lord The printer only made nine The Goon chiseled out the mountains His hot wire was striking fire But he worked so hard, he broke his poor heart He laid down his hot wire and he died, Lord, Lord He laid down his hot wire and he died
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# ? Nov 15, 2020 01:29 |
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Len posted:I will duel this hypothetical printer. Pretty sure all I have to do is bump the table and I win You make sixteen hills and what do you get?
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# ? Nov 15, 2020 01:40 |
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I will tell my child the folktales of Len Henry, the Terrain Driving Man. My Daughters Juice is already a story time favorite.
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# ? Nov 15, 2020 03:49 |
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Some Goon posted:They're the only patrons of the arts left. Can't paint on an empty stomach. It's not just anime people, don't worry, comrade, it's furries, too!
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# ? Nov 15, 2020 08:01 |
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Moola posted:you should duel the printer and see who makes the best terrain piece Measure the print bed, then make a hill exactly 1" larger.
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# ? Nov 15, 2020 16:12 |
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Pretty sick paintjob, but when I look at it I can't help but see
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# ? Nov 15, 2020 18:05 |
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# ? May 18, 2024 06:31 |
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Crackbone posted:Measure the print bed, then make a hill exactly 1" larger. somewhere a 3d printer is crying
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# ? Nov 15, 2020 19:40 |