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ExecuDork posted:Fortunately, they had a couple of bikes in my size (L) and not for outrageous (to me) prices. The main one I'm considering is a Giant Talon 3. I can't really recommend only 7 gears on a new bike. What's worse, the page's specs show that it's a MFTZ500 freewheel, which means that wheel isn't even upgradable to 9spd, where you should have some chance of snagging a good deal for shifter+rear derailleur. That is the number one detractor on this bike, with the low end suspension fork a number 2. The 22-36 x 14-28 gearing is fine for the low end, but tops out pretty quickly. quote:I'm also going to have a look at the used market but I don't have a car so anything I'm considering has to be pretty local, and this is not a big city. I like this LBS but there is another in town that carries Norco bikes, and the Storm 5 would be about the same price if available - I haven't checked what the second LBS has on the floor right now. The Storm 5 has a cassette, which means you'd be able to put more-geared cassettes on that hub. It's still a lovely 7 speed, and has a recall on it: https://www.norco.com/support/safety-recalls/2021-cassette-recall/ Storm 4 upgrades to similar hydro brakes as the Talon 3, but is still 7 speed. I'd take that for $50 more. Storm 3 is $120 over the 5, but now gets you 9 speed, 2x9 instead of 3x7. The drivetrain, including the cassette, should last a long time, defraying the upfront cost. This might be unfortunately very hypothetical if they don't have the bikes in stock. Back to gearing and #speeds -- I would say even a beginner would very quickly notice the gaps in 7 speeds. This is a handy visualizer: https://www.gear-calculator.com/ Link to Talon 3 vs Storm 3: https://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR...,13,11&UF2=2328  I've got the metric set to speed produced by pedaling at a certain cadence, in this case 75 RPM, which is brisk but still casual. As you can see, the 9 speed spread is wider (thanks to the 11t and 36t cogs), with minimum speed of 4mph and max of 21mph. IIRC, you were Canadian, so kph is an exercise to the reader. The gray bands labeled Gear Step show you the jumps between consecutive possible gearings. However, this is only if you're micromanaging shifts back and forth on the chainrings. Most of the time, you'll only switch chainrings if you hit different terrain. If you're crusing at a certain difficulty for a long time and want to fine tune your cadence, then it would make sense to switch chainrings to get a "half step" gearing change. Anyways, looking at how the 7 speed gears overlap on the two chainrings, I have to admit they provide finer gearing (with less need to flip the FD in the overlap) over their more limited range. Finally, the Storm 5 is a triple, 22/34/42 x 11-34. I had to use that recall page to get the tooth counts off that Sugek cassette, but here you go: https://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR...,34,11&UF2=2328 The improved range is nice, but it comes at the cost of gear density, to the point where you'll almost always want to half step shift to avoid big jumps. At your desired price point, I'd try to find a rigid fork bike, with a cassette and freehub wheel (even if it's 7-speed) instead of a freewhel.
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Nov 12, 2020 08:11
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rngd in the womb posted:There may or may not be a smartphone app for the power meter you're looking at, but a bike computer will always connect to it, display the data you want to see while you're riding, and handle your ride data (storage and uploads). You'd be able to put workouts on your bike computer and follow along. Or you could put routes you make on it, just go out and not worry about your phone dying on you. Counter point if you are Zwifting on a dumb trainer a power meter makes absolute sense before a bike computer.
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Nov 12, 2020 11:32
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mikemelbrooks posted:Counter point if you are Zwifting on a dumb trainer a power meter makes absolute sense before a bike computer.
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Nov 12, 2020 15:09
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amenenema posted:Agreed but if you don't wanna spend $$$ Zwift has all the major dumb trainer power curves mapped so you can get away with just a BT speed sensor.
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Nov 12, 2020 15:27
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If you do it using the estimated power curve you'll want to remove as many variables from the equation as you can on your side. Things like tire pressure, flywheel engagement, skewer tightness, and whatever else. You want to make sure everything is consistent from one ride to the next. It's not a big deal if you just want to spin. But if you want to compare numbers from one session to another then it matters more.
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Nov 12, 2020 16:08
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If you have interest in participating in Zwift races or other events, ZPower estimates may disqualify you from the final standings on Zwift Power. (This may not matter to you.)mikemelbrooks posted:Counter point if you are Zwifting on a dumb trainer a power meter makes absolute sense before a bike computer. Does Zwift do power meter calibration? I've always had a computer and never used the app for that, so I'm not sure.
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Nov 12, 2020 16:56
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vikingstrike posted:If you have interest in participating in Zwift races or other events, ZPower estimates may disqualify you from the final standings on Zwift Power. (This may not matter to you.) Yes it does both the Windows, OSX, and iPad/iphone versions, not sure about the apple TV, but I would be surprised if it didn't. I used a Stages powermeter and it never really needed calibration. I dont think you can calibrate if you are connecting via Ant+
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Nov 12, 2020 17:45
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Steve French posted:If you’re on iOS, go to the record screen, hit settings in the upper left. Autopause settings should be on that screen. Thank you! As someone who has produced mobile apps for a while, I'm pretty sure they changed 2mph to 4mph in a Strava setting. The map points are correct.
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Nov 12, 2020 20:30
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This all seems complicated - my HR is tracked with a fit bit that pairs with Strava. You can pair it with FitBit, Garmin, TomTom and a few others
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Nov 12, 2020 22:03
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kimbo305 posted:Did you get to ride it? If you can, you can heavily base your decision on that. Lots of good info and things to think about, thank you! I'm going to ask about a test ride this morning. I need to pick up my old bike and take it home in any case. Riding my bike this past month has been super useful for thinking about what you're talking about. I think 75 rpm is a reasonable cadence for me, I have found it more comfortable to push harder each stroke at slower cadence than lighter and faster. I know I cruise at around 20 to 25 km/h and in either 2x3 (front x rear of 3 x 5), 2x4, or 3x3. Headwinds and gentle uphill puts me in 2x2, steeper hills are 1x3 or 1x2. I get off and walk (after I rest and catch my breath) before I reach for 1x1. But I don't know the tooth count on any of those so it's hard to say, and then there's the difference in bike geometry, wheels, and tires. I will see what LBS 2 has on the floor and try to get a test ride. It's rainy this morning but forecast to be sunny tomorrow.
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Nov 12, 2020 22:57
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mikemelbrooks posted:Yes it does both the Windows, OSX, and iPad/iphone versions, not sure about the apple TV, but I would be surprised if it didn't. I used a Stages powermeter and it never really needed calibration. Zwift only has spindown calibration for smart trainers. The wrench disappeared on my Apple TV and I don’t think any of the clients can perform spindowns via BT anymore. You cannot zero-offset power meters in Zwift...it’s never been implemented.
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Nov 13, 2020 00:47
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I bought a Norco Storm 5 at the second LBS. New bike. Norco Storm 5 by Martin Brummell, on FlickrI had to do some errands this morning anyway, so I dropped in to LBS 2 and they let me test ride the Norco Storm 5 and the 3 - in my size, Large, they had one of each in stock (plus a Storm 1 that I did not test ride because I don't need to know what I'm missing at the top end of the range, and a 4 that was described as identical to the 3, but with hydraulic rather than mechanical disk brakes). I seriously considered the 3 but in the end I decided if / when I outgrow this bike there's a clear whole-new-bike upgrade path and in 6 months or a year I will probably be in a pretty different position regarding what I want and need out of two wheels. The ability to easily change the cassette or other parts would be nice, but is not a high priority for me; I'm quite happy with the 3 x 7 drivetrain. I noticed very little difference in the brakes (mechanical vs hydraulic disks) between the 3 and the 5, but I didn't go diving down a steep trail or anything, just around the block. Also, it's ORANGE. I brought my old bike home from LBS 1. They charged me zero for the work they did (obviously, he pulled off the new parts he'd installed - the crank and BB), which I appreciate. The Giant Talon 3 had just been sold, literally like 15 minutes before I walked in the door, and their stock is getting quite depleted. The next bike he could show me was a $1300AUD Scott model. And, comedy option, a used carbon-frame road bike "for going fast, very fast" they'd just refreshed and replaced some parts (cassette, chain, etc.) for $2K, apparently when it was new it cost $8K. The art of the upsell - we also looked at e-bikes, for fun. Back on the commute, which feels very good. It could just be the psychological effect of Shiny New Thing and I haven't moved over my computer/spedo yet, but it felt faster and the hills seemed less hateful to me. The hardest part of my commute is gravel, which the skinny road tires of my old bike would dig into and it felt like I was losing a lot of momentum to the rocks. Every bump I hit this morning (and I deliberately hit several, of course) felt just fine, where they would have been more alarming on the old bike. It's good.
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Nov 13, 2020 02:00
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TTrashbike begins  
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Nov 13, 2020 03:00
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PP bike
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Nov 13, 2020 06:16
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50-70 kph winds and deep carbon wheels got me to work super fast and super sketchy this morning
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Nov 13, 2020 20:32
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numberoneposter posted:50-70 kph winds and deep carbon wheels got me to work super fast and super sketchy this morning Gotta go fast like Sonic imo
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Nov 13, 2020 20:50
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Steve French posted:If you’re on iOS, go to the record screen, hit settings in the upper left. Autopause settings should be on that screen. That worked. Distance and time now match the Cateye. Thank you.
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Nov 14, 2020 03:40
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numberoneposter posted:does anyone else listen to super euro beat while riding? I'm late to music chat but this is my go-to for "lets go fast" times: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dS6UI3ukWfA Queen-Of-Hearts fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Nov 14, 2020 |
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Nov 14, 2020 04:38
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Tried my hand at vinyl wrapping today. There’s a lot of flaws and the joins are real bad, but for a first attempt I’m pretty pleased. Good from afar but far from good, I’ll definitely redo it eventually.
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Nov 14, 2020 09:25
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Finally got a bike that works and isn't trying to kill me. Its a little big for me but it's fine and it was available and affordable. Went on my first dawn ride in a couple of years and I'm now very aware of how out of shape I am. I jog and hike,, but bike muscles are a whole different beast.
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Nov 15, 2020 14:50
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Sab0921 posted:https://bunchbike.com/ Re upping this to see if anyone has experience, feedback or advice for this type of bike
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Nov 15, 2020 15:01
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Sab0921 posted:Re upping this to see if anyone has experience, feedback or advice for this type of bike I’ve never ridden that bike in particular, but the front loaders are a popular type of cargo bike. More popular brands in the US are Urban Arrow, Larry/Harry Bullit, and Yuba. For that particular style, the brand I am more familiar with is something like this https://www.instagram.com/p/CGR0shwhq_Q/?igshid=1jt50v5n7hl3u With the two wheels up front it may be different, but I’ve heard that riding them can take a little bit to get used to, they are heavy, and you’ll need space to store it. Alternative designs for hauling kids and the like would be Tern GSD, Surly Big Dummy, etc. basically a long tail bike. These ride more like typical bicycles. Cargo bikes especially with kids and groceries are one area where ebikes can make a huge difference. Might be something to think about. I live in Colorado and see cargo bikes out a good bit, especially since the ebike versions have become more popular and cheaper. It’s been our family’s short list for a bit to buy a Tern and reduce most of our car usage entirely.
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Nov 15, 2020 16:26
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Sab0921 posted:Re upping this to see if anyone has experience, feedback or advice for this type of bike Some folks in the e-bike thread would be better qualified to comment on the battery/motor combo, but it looks like decent components for the price. Make sure Class 2 ebikes are legal wherever you plan on riding.
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Nov 15, 2020 16:32
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Still needs a couple of things but here she is. Overall the build went pretty smoothly. All that’s left is the rear brake cable was too short, rear HY/RD caliper didn’t fit so it’s getting a spyre in the rear, rear derailleur Di2 cable was too short, add sealant and air up the tires, and wrap the bars.
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Nov 15, 2020 17:47
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e.pilot posted:Still needs a couple of things but here she is. Overall the build went pretty smoothly. All that’s left is the rear brake cable was too short, rear HY/RD caliper didn’t fit so it’s getting a spyre in the rear, rear derailleur Di2 cable was too short, add sealant and air up the tires, and wrap the bars. Very nice, did you redo the colorway or leave it after your last pic? I think it looks great but I know you weren’t 100% on it
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Nov 15, 2020 17:52
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Time posted:Very nice, did you redo the colorway or leave it after your last pic? Nope the wrap is the same, need to add the down tube logo still.
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Nov 15, 2020 18:04
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Those colors are fantastic. Skip the logos imo
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Nov 15, 2020 18:10
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HAIL eSATA-n posted:Those colors are fantastic. Skip the logos imo Oh no the logo is going to be very on brand.  In the same prismatic vinyl as the wheel.
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Nov 15, 2020 18:18
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I retract my previous statement
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Nov 15, 2020 18:21
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e.pilot posted:Still needs a couple of things but here she is. Overall the build went pretty smoothly. All that’s left is the rear brake cable was too short, rear HY/RD caliper didn’t fit so it’s getting a spyre in the rear, rear derailleur Di2 cable was too short, add sealant and air up the tires, and wrap the bars. What frame is that
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Nov 15, 2020 19:06
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e.pilot posted:Still needs a couple of things but here she is. Overall the build went pretty smoothly. All that’s left is the rear brake cable was too short, rear HY/RD caliper didn’t fit so it’s getting a spyre in the rear, rear derailleur Di2 cable was too short, add sealant and air up the tires, and wrap the bars. This is the good poo poo right here
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Nov 15, 2020 19:13
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 it’s prismatic too  nwin posted:What frame is that ICAN TT016 e.pilot fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Nov 15, 2020 |
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Nov 15, 2020 19:39
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e.pilot posted:
Perfect. Right down to the claw hammer on the floor.
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Nov 15, 2020 22:42
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vikingstrike posted:I’ve never ridden that bike in particular, but the front loaders are a popular type of cargo bike. More popular brands in the US are Urban Arrow, Larry/Harry Bullit, and Yuba. For that particular style, the brand I am more familiar with is something like this https://www.instagram.com/p/CGR0shwhq_Q/?igshid=1jt50v5n7hl3u Is there a reason you went with the rear long tail design rather than a front loader?
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Nov 15, 2020 22:50
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Sab0921 posted:Is there a reason you went with the rear long tail design rather than a front loader? Rides more like a normal bike, lighter, takes up less space. Accessories on Tern, Yuba, and Xtracycles (incl Big Dummy) is pretty great these days.
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Nov 16, 2020 00:38
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e.pilot posted:
I have seen many bikes. I have built many bikes. This is a work of art.
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Nov 16, 2020 01:08
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e.pilot posted:Still needs a couple of things but here she is. Overall the build went pretty smoothly. All that’s left is the rear brake cable was too short, rear HY/RD caliper didn’t fit so it’s getting a spyre in the rear, rear derailleur Di2 cable was too short, add sealant and air up the tires, and wrap the bars. quote:It looks fast because it is fast. In the images, you can almost see the air particles flowing over the top and having the frameset race off your screen. If its that fast imagine how fast it will be when you have a set of wheels on it, and you're pedaling as if your life depended on it.
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Nov 16, 2020 01:10
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Trash bike is a good bike.
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Nov 16, 2020 02:34
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e.pilot posted:
A legend is born
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Nov 16, 2020 05:25
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I just moved to a new city and couldn’t bring my trusty Redline 925, so I’m in the market for a new commuting bike. Lower and midrange bikes seem pretty well cleared out, so I figured I would look into a custom build. I picked a shop because they’re a Surly dealer and got a quote for a Steamroller. I provided some rough specs, but hadn’t sourced or priced any components beyond the frame. Considering All City Big Block completes sell for about $1,000 that was around what I was expecting. But the shop got back to me tonight and just counting parts the build is about $1,900. I could get the price down a couple hundred by bailing on the accessories (fenders, front rack). And I will do some homework and price possible alternative parts. But is reasonable to assume I can get a custom single speed build for closer to $1,000 or so (not counting labor)?
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Nov 16, 2020 06:56
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