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Dik Hz
Feb 22, 2004

Fun with Science

Sundae posted:

Imagine three switches on the edge of a cliff in my entrance hallway:

If the stair light is on and the entry light is off, turning on the porch light works.
If the stair light is off and the entry light is on, turning on the porch light works.
If both stairs and entry are on, turning on the porch light doesn't work.
If the porch light is flipped to on (even if it doesn't work) and you turn off one of the other two that are on, the porch light turns on.
If the porch light is already on and you turn on the other two, the porch light stays on and the others work too.
If you turn off the porch light from that state and then try to turn it back on, it won't turn on until you turn off one of the other two.

Now I just need to figure out how to get this cabbage and goat across the river and I'll finally have my electrical problems sorted.
Try a single photon and see if you can observe quantum splitting.

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Sundae
Dec 1, 2005

Dik Hz posted:

Try a single photon and see if you can observe quantum splitting.

:lol:

I'm honestly scared to try and fix this. I just know I'm gonna open up that socket plate and see something beyond mortal comprehension. Eldritch wiring, its tentacles spreading in dimensions I cannot fathom.

Or more likely, I'll see the porch light tied into a circuit board that makes no sense and has no reason to exist, and I'll screw it all back up and pretend the whole sorry affair never happened.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Sundae posted:

:lol:

I'm honestly scared to try and fix this. I just know I'm gonna open up that socket plate and see something beyond mortal comprehension.

Or more likely, I'll see the porch light tied into a circuit board that makes no sense and has no reason to exist, and I'll screw it all back up and pretend the whole sorry affair never happened.

I need photos of it. I have to know what's inside. Is it a three and a four way switch? There has to be a switched neutral here backfeeding something right?

therobit
Aug 19, 2008

I've been tryin' to speak with you for a long time
I had a similar situation going on with my hallway light where the 3 way switch had been wired wrong. Of course, that was a single fixture, but when I opened it up to replace one of the switches (because it broke) I had to trial and error until something worked. The wires did not have different colored insulation so there was no way to tel what was what. I ended up just leaving the breaker on and being really careful with my pliers until I found the right combination. You kshould probably explin your problem to the DIY electrical thread and maybe they can tell you what's wrong with it.

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005

StormDrain posted:

I need photos of it. I have to know what's inside. Is it a three and a four way switch? There has to be a switched neutral here backfeeding something right?

Pardon the terrible photo - it's late at night and I didn't want to risk having to put together more than I was bargaining for at 11PM. I'll disassemble it more clearly for the DIY thread and cross-post when it's daylight and I won't hate myself when it all goes sideways. :downs:



There are three switches -- two 4-way dimmers and one 3-way (porch light, far right). The leftmost dimmer only has two terminals connected, while the middle has three connected but one doesn't actually go anywhere. (Refer to the floating red/yellow. :shrug:) The porch light is the three-way on the right with all terminals connected. In the back, you can just make out where the Stranger Things mindflayer is building a new conduit into our world.

Also present: multiple layers of the shittiest paint choices ever from former residents. Nothing like Dusty Pink to greet your guests.

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog
Three more master bathroom remodel quotes, all starting at $50k for economy grade materials and no features other than basic bathroom appliances. Definitely not the time to do home improvements!

The 4th guy no-show'd the appointment

I have now gotten 14 bathroom remodel quotes between September 2019 and November 2020. Cheapest was ~$45k and most expensive was $115k, all for the same scope

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog
Honestly the house has appreciated $70k in the 18 months that I've been here. Might be a smarter move to just sell & buy a renovated place, since a commission and closing costs would be less than the cost of renovating one single room in this place.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

Honestly the house has appreciated $70k in the 18 months that I've been here. Might be a smarter move to just sell & buy a renovated place, since a commission and closing costs would be less than the cost of renovating one single room in this place.

The popular thing in our neighborhood is to renovate your garage and put a nanny suite/room above it. Here's me thinking (wishing) that might be doable for ~100k.

We like our house, but I have a feeling when we get to that point it'll just make more sense to move to another one in the same neighborhood (which is what the previous owners did).

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

Honestly the house has appreciated $70k in the 18 months that I've been here. Might be a smarter move to just sell & buy a renovated place, since a commission and closing costs would be less than the cost of renovating one single room in this place.

My understanding from talking to family who are in a similar situation to you (just bought want to renovate before move in) is that any kind of construction costs are loving insane right now. It looks like everyone has more work than they can do and are just handing out gently caress you quotes because, hey, if this person is actually willing to drop 75k on a 25k job whatever we’ll make time.

Ymmv, this person isn’t in your region, I’m just an idiot on the internet, etc.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Cyrano4747 posted:

My understanding from talking to family who are in a similar situation to you (just bought want to renovate before move in) is that any kind of construction costs are loving insane right now. It looks like everyone has more work than they can do and are just handing out gently caress you quotes because, hey, if this person is actually willing to drop 75k on a 25k job whatever we’ll make time.

Ymmv, this person isn’t in your region, I’m just an idiot on the internet, etc.

This is my brother and his remodeling business here in central Florida. People are dropping stupid money on jobs right now and he’s killing it.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik

Residency Evil posted:

We like our house, but I have a feeling when we get to that point it'll just make more sense to move to another one in the same neighborhood (which is what the previous owners did).

This is exactly what we did two years ago, moved 6 houses down the street to a much bigger house/lot. We were in the process of taking to an architect and drawing up some plans for an addition when the one down the street went on the market. Ultimately we made the right choice since even with an addition it wouldn’t have given us everything we wanted/needed.

The new owners then immediately turned around and tacked on a garage expansion.

Dik Hz
Feb 22, 2004

Fun with Science

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

Three more master bathroom remodel quotes, all starting at $50k for economy grade materials and no features other than basic bathroom appliances. Definitely not the time to do home improvements!

The 4th guy no-show'd the appointment

I have now gotten 14 bathroom remodel quotes between September 2019 and November 2020. Cheapest was ~$45k and most expensive was $115k, all for the same scope
West coast prices are insane. A complete gut plus custom tile finishes is like $20k here tops if you know the right people.

eig
Oct 16, 2008

Renovating isnt stupid to do right now if you're doing the majority of the work yourself though right? (Plumbers gotta plumb) Im planning to gut and re-do my kitchen :ohdear:

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

Yeah I wish I could hire out finished my attic but now I'm contemplating the effort to build a knee wall, do some mild wiring of can lights and some sheetrock and just hiring out the mini-slpit install.

The real downside of working from home for a year is being way too focused on everything about your house you want to fix.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Sundae posted:

Imagine three switches on the edge of a cliff in my entrance hallway:

If the stair light is on and the entry light is off, turning on the porch light works.
If the stair light is off and the entry light is on, turning on the porch light works.
If both stairs and entry are on, turning on the porch light doesn't work.
If the porch light is flipped to on (even if it doesn't work) and you turn off one of the other two that are on, the porch light turns on.
If the porch light is already on and you turn on the other two, the porch light stays on and the others work too.
If you turn off the porch light from that state and then try to turn it back on, it won't turn on until you turn off one of the other two.

Now I just need to figure out how to get this cabbage and goat across the river and I'll finally have my electrical problems sorted.

One or more of those switches are an incorrectly wired 3/4-way, but I've not had enough coffee to tell you which.

Oh...yeah, there's your other post. That's not gonna be fun to sort out. It basically takes pulling everything, and figuring out which are feeds/jumpering them, etc. So....hot work. The best advice you'll get is to call an electrician.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


eig posted:

Renovating isnt stupid to do right now if you're doing the majority of the work yourself though right? (Plumbers gotta plumb) Im planning to gut and re-do my kitchen :ohdear:

I think it's labor and lumber that have skyrocketed in price this year for the most part, though I haven't been following the prices of tile, fixtures, drywall, appliances, etc too closely.

Yes, DIY good if you are handy enough.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Sirotan posted:

I think it's labor and lumber that have skyrocketed in price this year for the most part, though I haven't been following the prices of tile, fixtures, drywall, appliances, etc too closely.

Yes, DIY good if you are handy enough.

You can't even FIND decent dimensional lumber in <pick random size this week> near me. Lots of other things have spotty availability as well. And when you can find them you're absolutely paying a premium.

I was going to build a new barn this summer. It didn't happen because I'm not paying double for subpar lumber that I'd have to scramble just to collect everything I needed for the project.

I think it's super obvious what's going on: people are stuck in their houses so that's what they're thinking about. They're also now using their house for an office/school. The ones with money to reno also skipped their summer vacation/not gonna go on one next year so they have cash to burn on this newfound "most important thing in my world to fix/change."

All of my contractor friends are out killing it right now. If I want to make some quick money I should buy a bigger excavator and start dilling pools next spring. loving EVERYONE wants a pool now.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Sundae posted:

Pardon the terrible photo - it's late at night and I didn't want to risk having to put together more than I was bargaining for at 11PM. I'll disassemble it more clearly for the DIY thread and cross-post when it's daylight and I won't hate myself when it all goes sideways. :downs:



There are three switches -- two 4-way dimmers and one 3-way (porch light, far right). The leftmost dimmer only has two terminals connected, while the middle has three connected but one doesn't actually go anywhere. (Refer to the floating red/yellow. :shrug:) The porch light is the three-way on the right with all terminals connected. In the back, you can just make out where the Stranger Things mindflayer is building a new conduit into our world.

Also present: multiple layers of the shittiest paint choices ever from former residents. Nothing like Dusty Pink to greet your guests.

There it is. I was wondering if there was going to be a smart or electronic switch involved here. Something using a neutral wire that could back feed the porch light when it was on first but would release when you shut it off.

It doesn't necessarily have to be hot work, I figured one out with different combinations. Make a few guesses, wire nut it all, flip the breaker. Make notes, make new assumptions, and go at it again.

Then think real hard if you want electronic switches. How badly do those lights need to be on dimmers. Simple toggles buys some extra room in the box too, which is probably stuffed right now.

Edit: They're probably not dimmers but the point stands. Typical four ways aren't much bigger than a regular switch.

StormDrain fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Nov 17, 2020

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
I'm pretty sure my wife is getting me a Toto for Christmas.

I wonder what 12 year old me would think.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Motronic posted:

One or more of those switches are an incorrectly wired 3/4-way, but I've not had enough coffee to tell you which.

Oh...yeah, there's your other post. That's not gonna be fun to sort out. It basically takes pulling everything, and figuring out which are feeds/jumpering them, etc. So....hot work. The best advice you'll get is to call an electrician.

:ssh: First at least let us see what happens when all the devices are pulled out.

Protip: masking tape label everything with a sharpie and take pictures of it before undoing anything. Just 1,2,3 etc. And make a Rosetta stone page with where they go and what they do.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
OK this should be an easy one, but we're getting our deck demo'd, rebuilt bigger and screened in, side deck built, electrical, composite materials where they make sense, skylights, etc. etc. All said and done it's nearly $40k in work (we worked hard to nail this down as close as possible so it shouldn't creep too much). We're even paying them to sub out some basic landscaping (ripping out stuff and laying down weed block/gravel/etc.).

Already happy with price and committed, but payment terms are the last thing to nail down. We've already sent the down payment, but they're asking:

10%: down payment
20%: permits issued
20%: framing completed
20%: roof on porch completed
30%: completion

Only stipulation I'm going to add is that completion means work is done and inspections are passed. I assume that's inherent with "completed," but I want to make sure there's no question that final payment is contingent on passing inspection.

Thoughts? These seem very generous for a $40k project, so I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything here. Our first big improvement project, so I dunno.

therobit
Aug 19, 2008

I've been tryin' to speak with you for a long time

Residency Evil posted:

I'm pretty sure my wife is getting me a Toto for Christmas.

I wonder what 12 year old me would think.

12 year old LOVE bathroom humor.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

DaveSauce posted:

OK this should be an easy one, but we're getting our deck demo'd, rebuilt bigger and screened in, side deck built, electrical, composite materials where they make sense, skylights, etc. etc. All said and done it's nearly $40k in work (we worked hard to nail this down as close as possible so it shouldn't creep too much). We're even paying them to sub out some basic landscaping (ripping out stuff and laying down weed block/gravel/etc.).

Already happy with price and committed, but payment terms are the last thing to nail down. We've already sent the down payment, but they're asking:

10%: down payment
20%: permits issued
20%: framing completed
20%: roof on porch completed
30%: completion

Only stipulation I'm going to add is that completion means work is done and inspections are passed. I assume that's inherent with "completed," but I want to make sure there's no question that final payment is contingent on passing inspection.

Thoughts? These seem very generous for a $40k project, so I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything here. Our first big improvement project, so I dunno.

30% on final permit signoff is generous, this seems reasonable to me. Spell it out in the contract that "completion" means final permit signed, lien release signed, and punch list completed. Don't assume anything unless you're OK assuming they will do $12,000 in labor out of the goodness of their hearts. 30% "up front" (materials cost), another 40% as they complete material amounts of labor (pay their guys), and 30% on the tail end for finish work and P&O seems correct.

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005

Motronic posted:

One or more of those switches are an incorrectly wired 3/4-way, but I've not had enough coffee to tell you which.

Oh...yeah, there's your other post. That's not gonna be fun to sort out. It basically takes pulling everything, and figuring out which are feeds/jumpering them, etc. So....hot work. The best advice you'll get is to call an electrician.

Yep, in the spirit of the current thread title, I'm just going to call an electrician.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Sundae posted:

Yep, in the spirit of the current thread title, I'm just going to call an electrician.

Expect a free side of profanity while they are sorting this out. It's annoying trying to fix the parts of an unlabeled and inconvenient to access logic gate. Sometimes you guess well and it goes faster.

It's also a lot better when you have a couple of people so you aren't running around between panel/switches.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

H110Hawk posted:

30% on final permit signoff is generous, this seems reasonable to me. Spell it out in the contract that "completion" means final permit signed, lien release signed, and punch list completed. Don't assume anything unless you're OK assuming they will do $12,000 in labor out of the goodness of their hearts. 30% "up front" (materials cost), another 40% as they complete material amounts of labor (pay their guys), and 30% on the tail end for finish work and P&O seems correct.

Yeah that's kinda my thinking. I totally missed that 10 + 20 is functionally the materials down payments split up, so that makes a lot more sense. But in any case the 30% at the end seems like a ton, and very much in my favor, so I'm all for it.

Good catch on the lien release, didn't think of that. Though I do have a question on that: would this be a lien waiver, or a lien release? Google says a lien waiver is what I want here...?

And is it typical to ask that this also includes a lien waiver/release from each sub as well before final payment? Or is a lien waiver from the GC all I can hope for?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

DaveSauce posted:

Yeah that's kinda my thinking. I totally missed that 10 + 20 is functionally the materials down payments split up, so that makes a lot more sense. But in any case the 30% at the end seems like a ton, and very much in my favor, so I'm all for it.

Good catch on the lien release, didn't think of that. Though I do have a question on that: would this be a lien waiver, or a lien release? Google says a lien waiver is what I want here...?

And is it typical to ask that this also includes a lien waiver/release from each sub as well before final payment? Or is a lien waiver from the GC all I can hope for?

Whatever the process is for your jurisdiction, you follow it. Here it would be all subs + GC. Whether it's a waiver or release probably depends on exact wording on your contract and if they file a lien or choose to skip it. (There is standard language GC's have to put in contracts around this in California, I just followed that language. If they don't put the language and follow the steps then they automatically waive their lien and it might even count against their GC license.)

Modus Man
Jun 8, 2004



Soiled Meat
The building supply crunch has me extra worried as someone who is half-way through building a house. Luckily I ordered my lumber package in March before the prices skyrocketed and got it delivered in april when the lumber yards opened up, before they started running out of everything. I had been waiting on windows that I ordered 6 weeks ago but those just came in so now I have something to do.

Now I will be waiting another 4-5 weeks on siding I ordered 6 weeks ago. That’s why I’m installing my Tyvek very carefully, extra tight with no slack or wrinkles. I’m using Tyvek tape on every single seam. I also spent $300 on a cap nailer so it should be ok for a month or more while I wait for the siding to come in.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Modus Man posted:

That’s why I’m installing my Tyvek very carefully, extra tight with no slack or wrinkles. I’m using Tyvek tape on every single seam. I also spent $300 on a cap nailer so it should be ok for a month or more while I wait for the siding to come in.

That's gonna pay back anyway, so good on you for taking the time.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

H110Hawk posted:

Whatever the process is for your jurisdiction, you follow it. Here it would be all subs + GC. Whether it's a waiver or release probably depends on exact wording on your contract and if they file a lien or choose to skip it. (There is standard language GC's have to put in contracts around this in California, I just followed that language. If they don't put the language and follow the steps then they automatically waive their lien and it might even count against their GC license.)

Ah, I see, I had assumed that there would be a common practice in the US, but of course there isn't.

I'm in NC which appears kinda complicated, but also kinda not. Looks like if the GC signs a lien waiver, then I should be all good. I guess subs can only file a lien against the unpaid funds to the GC, OR on the property through subrogation (up to the amount that is unpaid to the GC). So if I pay off the GC and get a lien waiver before any subs file a lien I should be free and clear if I'm reading this right. (edit: I believe all this this is to say that a sub can only file a lien for what I owe to the GC (not to exceed what the GC owes them), and I can't clear it by paying the GC after that lien has been filed).

DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Nov 17, 2020

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Pretty sure my siding contractor has sheeted or maybe? hopefully? only wrapped over the vent opening for the bathroom fan. I have a camera on a string thing, but the vent is that insulated flex duct stuff so I can't get the camera to the end of it to confirm. Cathedral ceilings with the bathroom on the 2nd floor, so I can't go into the attic to point it out. It's possible that it was incorrectly done previously and wasn't there, but I distinctly remember the general location of the vent on the exterior and now it's missing. Wonder how much of a fight this will be tomorrow, wish me luck. Definitely not going to use this contractor again for anything else. :suicide:

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

therobit posted:

12 year old LOVE bathroom humor.

Yes, but:

12 year old me: I bet when I'm a grown-up, I'll be able to get the new PlayStation whenever it comes out!
Me in my 30s: Yes, but let me tell you about this toilet that cleans your rear end in a top hat.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Residency Evil posted:

Yes, but:

12 year old me: I bet when I'm a grown-up, I'll be able to get the new PlayStation whenever it comes out!
Me in my 30s: Yes, but let me tell you about this toilet that cleans your rear end in a top hat.

Do you have a bidet seat now and if so what kind? I'm in the process of deciding if I'll go with a Geberit or Toto wall hung toilet carrier, both of which can also accommodate a bidet seat. The Toto carrier really only works with Toto seats and bowls, but the Geberit works with a bunch of manufacturers. I just got a bidet seat install guide from them which had some really interesting photos:

Models that work with it:


Concealed vs exposed. The AquaClean Sela looks slick af, but is about $3k not including the carrier and not even available to purchase in the US, lol


Unfortunately the cheaper Toto seats look like complete garbage with all the adapters you need:


Higher end Toto+ Geberit carrier looks a lot nicer and would also run me $600 more


At this point I am probably leaning towards the Toto carrier so that I can get a Toto seat without a million adapters. If somebody has a bidet seat they really love please poo poopost about it since I am still trying to figure out the best combo here. I don't need "plays a song to hide my embarrassment" functional level but it needs to at least come with a heated seat.

Sirotan fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Nov 18, 2020

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

We got a Brondell Swash from Costco for around $300 and it’s been absolutely fantastic. I have no clue what kind of toilet I had I just knew we needed a rounded seat and not an elongated seat.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

DaveSauce posted:

Ah, I see, I had assumed that there would be a common practice in the US, but of course there isn't.

I'm in NC which appears kinda complicated, but also kinda not. Looks like if the GC signs a lien waiver, then I should be all good. I guess subs can only file a lien against the unpaid funds to the GC, OR on the property through subrogation (up to the amount that is unpaid to the GC). So if I pay off the GC and get a lien waiver before any subs file a lien I should be free and clear if I'm reading this right. (edit: I believe all this this is to say that a sub can only file a lien for what I owe to the GC (not to exceed what the GC owes them), and I can't clear it by paying the GC after that lien has been filed).

It's similar to that in California. The big "surprise" for most homeowners the first time around is that, basically, you can pay a GC the full bill, they can stiff their subs, and the subs can put a mechanics lien on your house for the full amount they are owed. The process for this differs state by state, probably county by county to a certain extent, but they generally have this same general setup.

Here it's something like subs have X days to file the lien, otherwise they forfeit the right to do so. This of course is something you may not learn about for a few days, and for many trades their jobs are in and out in a day or three if a job is well-GC'd and there isn't a bunch of curing time they have to wait on or whatever. They can also waive that right up front. If you haven't gotten waivers, you must get releases from them. Do Not Pay until you get those releases, a properly filed mechanics lien will survive any challenge unless you can find where the GC is currently hiding your money, which costs a lot of legal fees. It might be 10 years later, but if you sell the house your title company will just pay off the lien to clear it before they give you a penny, or your buyers lender will tell them they flat will not write the mortgage until the title is clear of other liens.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

Sirotan posted:

Do you have a bidet seat now and if so what kind? I'm in the process of deciding if I'll go with a Geberit or Toto wall hung toilet carrier, both of which can also accommodate a bidet seat. The Toto carrier really only works with Toto seats and bowls, but the Geberit works with a bunch of manufacturers. I just got a bidet seat install guide from them which had some really interesting photos:

Models that work with it:


Concealed vs exposed. The AquaClean Sela looks slick af, but is about $3k not including the carrier and not even available to purchase in the US, lol


Unfortunately the cheaper Toto seats look like complete garbage with all the adapters you need:


Higher end Toto+ Geberit carrier looks a lot nicer and would also run me $600 more


At this point I am probably leaning towards the Toto carrier so that I can get a Toto seat without a million adapters. If somebody has a bidet seat they really love please poo poopost about it since I am still trying to figure out the best combo here. I don't need "plays a song to hide my embarrassment" functional level but it needs to at least come with a heated seat.

Ooof, you've done a lot more research than I have. I don't have a bidet right now, but have used a Toto on vacation in France/etc. I was just going to get the C200 and hope for the best.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

H110Hawk posted:

It's similar to that in California. The big "surprise" for most homeowners the first time around is that, basically, you can pay a GC the full bill, they can stiff their subs, and the subs can put a mechanics lien on your house for the full amount they are owed. The process for this differs state by state, probably county by county to a certain extent, but they generally have this same general setup.

Here it's something like subs have X days to file the lien, otherwise they forfeit the right to do so. This of course is something you may not learn about for a few days, and for many trades their jobs are in and out in a day or three if a job is well-GC'd and there isn't a bunch of curing time they have to wait on or whatever. They can also waive that right up front. If you haven't gotten waivers, you must get releases from them. Do Not Pay until you get those releases, a properly filed mechanics lien will survive any challenge unless you can find where the GC is currently hiding your money, which costs a lot of legal fees. It might be 10 years later, but if you sell the house your title company will just pay off the lien to clear it before they give you a penny, or your buyers lender will tell them they flat will not write the mortgage until the title is clear of other liens.

So that's the interesting, and complicated, thing about NC laws (that I have only been reading about in the last 24 hours), which is that subs actually only have limited power against the owner. They can file a lien against funds easily enough, but they can't file a lien against the house unless they already put a lien on the funds AND I paid the GC anyhow. So if I send the GC the final payment, then the GC signs a lien waiver, and THEN a sub decides to file a lien, the sub is SOL. I mean, they can go after the GC I'm sure, but I'm in the clear near as I can tell.

Ultimately what I gather this means is that if a sub manages to actually get a mechanic's lien against the house, it's likely deserved. That, or they caught an exact moment in time where they filed a lien against funds, but the owner didn't see it and sent final payment to the GC anyhow.

With all that, I feel reasonably safe against subs filing liens as long as I can get the GC to sign off on a waiver. The tricky part looks to be making sure nothing new has popped up before that happens.

One note though is that in NC, pre-contract lien waivers are illegal. They cannot waive their right to a lien as a matter of bidding for the work, so getting that up front is not possible.

Catatron Prime
Aug 23, 2010

IT ME



Toilet Rascal

Sirotan posted:

Do you have a bidet seat now and if so what kind? I'm in the process of deciding if I'll go with a Geberit or Toto wall hung toilet carrier, both of which can also accommodate a bidet seat. The Toto carrier really only works with Toto seats and bowls, but the Geberit works with a bunch of manufacturers. I just got a bidet seat install guide from them which had some really interesting photos:

At this point I am probably leaning towards the Toto carrier so that I can get a Toto seat without a million adapters. If somebody has a bidet seat they really love please poo poopost about it since I am still trying to figure out the best combo here. I don't need "plays a song to hide my embarrassment" functional level but it needs to at least come with a heated seat.

At the beginning of the TPocalypse, we bought the wirecutter recommended Toto C200. Even managed to save 75$ by buying slightly used :q:

It’s completely changed my life, I’m never going back to scrubbing my own rear end in a top hat, Imma just let the robots rotor rooter that poo poo.

I will say the warm water runs out fairly quick on the high setting, but the cold water transition doesn’t really bother me. I am looking forward to using the heated seat in the winter though. I’ve had that turned off for the summer.

Seriously, owning a bidet has made me realize toilet paper is barbaric and long overdue for obsolescence.

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog
Aw man, my kitchenaid dishwasher (mfg 2007) seems to have well and truly croaked. I even replaced its fuse and it's still an inert chunk of plastic.

This is not a fun time to be shopping for appliances!

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Omne
Jul 12, 2003

Orangedude Forever

Three weeks and counting past our fence installation date, and no end in sight. I called some other fence contractors and they said the same thing: finding materials is drat near impossible. Some had inventory, and one of my rear neighbors will end up with his before me, even though I started the process months before him. Bastard.

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