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Had some fun high above Los Angeles. I'm ruined now. Yeah I swung my car around and around that cone what ov it m8?   
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Nov 16, 2020 04:06
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| # ? May 15, 2024 21:40 |
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Finally got around to painting the engine bay. Only bought the paint 2+ years ago... Primed that bit I decided to also include on the cowl, and the forward door jambs:   Waited an hour, then scuffed up the new primer to get out any bugs and chaff (outdoor painting FTL...), and then went to town:     One bug made a poor life choice:  You can see that winter daylight hours caught up with me. Also, the lid on my paint gun leaked:   I should have worn the jumpsuit I bought specifically to wear while spraying... Paint match is not perfect, but not bad:   Orange peel is acceptable for the engine bay and jambs. This is the worst bit:  This is more representative:  I think I had a bit too much air pressure. No worse than OEM, though, and franky better than I expected. The TCP Global paint laid down and covered nicely. I can't tell where I have black primer versus where I had grey primer (though I had uniform grey on all the parts that will be commonly visible, just in case.) I did realized, thankfully before spraying the red, that I had failed to note that my front wheels were right there under the car getting all sorts of overspray on them:   blyat. Acetone seems to be taking off the cured catalyzed urethane without destroying the original finish. I hope that and some elbow grease will save them without refinishing. edit: Google tells me that orange peel is too little pressure, too fast thinner, or too much paint. I didn't thin, so it's probably too little pressure, possibly too heavy on the application. I do tend toward that. I can fix it with color sanding, but won't bother in the engine bay. Possibly will practice that on the cowl panel, though, especially where that bug landed. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Nov 16, 2020 |
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Nov 16, 2020 20:49
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When I did the S10 in Rust-o-leum black I got some parts almost perfect with almost no orange peel, and some parts were just horrid. Same settings for all, but I think I did the good parts much faster. Going to redo it in spring and practice on a panel until I get the settings. Painting is fun. At least the car is protected from rust and protected from the poo poo color it had before (with skull stickers that they painted over....).
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Nov 16, 2020 21:19
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Oh, no doubt. I get better every time I try it. The Rustoleum Satin Black I did on part of my '90 RX-7 came out silky smooth: I would have to F up pretty bad to make the poor thing look worse than the probably 30-year-old cheap-rear end paint job that's on it. The paint oxidizes so bad it's usually pink, or *white* in the places where the pigment has completely disappeared.   Once upon a time, there was still enough pigment in the cheap paint for it to buff up pretty OK:   That was over 20 years ago, though. Those are scans of *actual photographs* take right after I polished the wheels and buffed the paint.
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Nov 16, 2020 23:50
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MrOnBicycle posted:When I did the S10 in Rust-o-leum black I got some parts almost perfect with almost no orange peel, and some parts were just horrid. Same settings for all, but I think I did the good parts much faster. Going to redo it in spring and practice on a panel until I get the settings. Painting is fun. Every time I've painted a car the absolute worst sections without fail are always 100% where I had the least light. YMMV
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Nov 17, 2020 15:46
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Motronic posted:Every time I've painted a car the absolute worst sections without fail are always 100% where I had the least light. YMMV Agreed, plenty of light is essential to being able to do a good job.
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Nov 17, 2020 19:10
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Hit the magic number, forgot my camera, had to use phone. 
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Nov 19, 2020 22:48
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Should have done the right calculations and reset the trip odo so that it would read 696.9 at the same time. 2 1/2 stars.
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Nov 19, 2020 23:03
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wesleywillis posted:Should have done the right calculations and reset the trip odo so that it would read 696.9 at the same time. The trip odo is my fuel gauge  696.9 is like 8 tanks of gas
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Nov 19, 2020 23:07
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Powershift posted:Hit the magic number, forgot my camera, had to use phone. Nice
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Nov 20, 2020 01:25
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  One more off the checklist of things that break
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Nov 20, 2020 03:24
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Finally got the regulator motor replaced. I was really dreading it because removing either the motor or the entire regulator assembly looked like a pain in the rear end and, because I don't have a garage to keep the car secure, I wanted to get this fixed in one go. I eventually opted to go for the motor directly so I bought this cute little thing because all the videos I saw had the motor mounted with Phillips head screws with absolutely no clear access for a normal screwdriver. Then it turns out that someone, either the PO(s) or Subaru, had changed the Phillips head screws with 10mm head bolts.  Yes, that is looking out from the inside of the door towards me. It's possible Subaru had realized how stupid it was to have blind Phillips head screws and changed it out in the MY2005. The videos I think were for an '03 or '04. In an case, it turned out that the old motor did work albeit slowly. It may have worked it I had opened it and cleaned it up but I already had a replacement motor and I wanted to make sure that a stronger motor would do the trick. Fortunately, it did. So now after,
The Forester is now finally driveable. I also did this.  There's still things to do like:
For now, I can drive it and get around to selling my Impreza to my roommate.
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Nov 20, 2020 22:48
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Nidhg00670000 posted:The El Camino wouldn't idle, holding it at 2000 rpm with the pedal it would run but pop & crackle a lot. For some reason, I was convinced there was a blockage in the carb since it drove there (last autumn...) but after disassembly and blowing compressed air through everything back and forth for four hours it still ran the same, and a quick check with the fuel line in a bottle tells me the mechanical pump is most likely junk. For some reason, it has a three-line pump (in, out, return) instead of two (in, out) like other Chevy SB pumps I've seen and the three-line pumps are 1) uncommon and 2) out of stock everywhere. So I ordered at a random store that had them "in stock", we'll see how much that lines up with reality. After putting the new pump in, it still wouldn't idle. Taking the carb apart AGAIN I found some weird white scale in one of the emulsion tubes and some weird white goop in one of the primary venturis, and after cleaning that out and a little fine-tuning of the idle speed and mixture screws it's now up and running again. So I can finally go and show it to the guy that maybe will help me out with the completely rotted window channels. https://vimeo.com/482103065 Yes I know, filming in portrait mode is haram. It just comes naturally while holding the phone in one hand.
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Nov 22, 2020 00:59
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Taking the carb apart AGAIN I found some weird white scale in one of the emulsion tubes and some weird white goop in one of the primary venturis, and after cleaning that out and a little fine-tuning of the idle speed and mixture screws it's now up and running again. Ethanol. You really need to fill it with some fresh gas with sta-bil (bonus points for marine sta-bil) if you're not gonna be going through a tank every 3 or 4 weeks.
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Nov 22, 2020 15:54
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Took the Forester on its first real drive since getting it back from all of its previous workup. Got it some fresh gas (the last fuel up was in March but I was able to go through most of the tank during moments it was drivable), gave the tires some air (really just checked pressure since everything was reading around 35 psi which is oddly high but not seemingly dangerous), and then did some grocery runs. Feels good to be able to finally drive it without having to worry about problems it has that I need to deal with. Also, I never stalled although I probably burned the clutch more than I should have. Full disclosure, this is my first manual transmission car (I did learn to drive stick several years back) and I'm still a bit anxious and slow when starting from a stop but I'm getting there. Fortunately, this part of Jersey isn't very hilly though I do know of intersections to avoid and dread when I approach a light turning red. At least I don't have to drive into work most of the time even though it's mostly highway driving.
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Nov 22, 2020 22:37
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I think most Subarus produced in the last 20 years have some sort of hill hold function so that should ease any start on a grade
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Nov 23, 2020 16:20
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Panty Saluter posted:I think most Subarus produced in the last 20 years have some sort of hill hold function so that should ease any start on a grade My daughter's 08 doesn't have it....... And I don't remember that awful feature being a thing 20 years ago at all for anyone.
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Nov 23, 2020 17:32
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Motronic posted:My daughter's 08 doesn't have it....... May have been more optional at one time. I drove a 93 Impreza that had that feature
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Nov 24, 2020 02:01
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Panty Saluter posted:May have been more optional at one time. I drove a 93 Impreza that had that feature Ninety THREE? I mean, that's still when ABS by itself sucked. I can't imagine how clunky and intrusive that feature must have been. But good to know.
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Nov 24, 2020 02:40
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it's the parking brake
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Nov 24, 2020 02:46
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My my06 forester xt had a hill hold function.
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Nov 24, 2020 04:51
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I think land rovers had it in the early 2000s, but they're expensive as gently caress so it might've been more common on the "fancy" stuff vs the more mundane poo poo.
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Nov 24, 2020 12:29
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Panty Saluter posted:May have been more optional at one time. I drove a 93 Impreza that had that feature It goes back another decade for Subaru - my neighbor had an '81 Wagon with it. It was pretty inobtrusive. I think it was invented pre-WWII.
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Nov 24, 2020 16:26
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I replaced the taillight sockets on the 2005 Saab 9-3 given that I've had a right brake light failure message that comes on (but have confirmed the bulb will light if I wiggle it). Same issue after replacing. Guess the bulb itself must be a touch wonky. Oh well. Also replaced the outside temp sensor as the old one seemed to be registering a good 50-60 degrees above what it should. Next up will be the valve cover gasket and possibly the PCV valve if I'm feeling particularly motivated.
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Nov 24, 2020 16:55
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Goober Peas posted:It goes back another decade for Subaru - my neighbor had an '81 Wagon with it. It was pretty inobtrusive. I think it was invented pre-WWII. How was it being implemented back then? Because now it's all ABS-related tack-ons.
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Nov 24, 2020 17:06
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Usually something with the parking brake, where it'd tighten up if you rolled back without any pressure on the brakes.
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Nov 24, 2020 18:32
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Activated winter mode on my DD  And the boy’s Del Sol 
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Nov 24, 2020 22:04
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Motronic posted:How was it being implemented back then? Because now it's all ABS-related tack-ons. The earliest systems (pre/post WWII) used a bearing loaded check valve in the hydraulic line. Pushing the clutch released the bearing into the valve. If on an incline, the bearing would roll back and plug the valve keeping the brakes engaged. If flat or on a decline, the bearing would not engage. Releasing the clutch kicked the bearing back into home position outside the valve. Subaru modified the design to use a gravity flap in the master cylinder. When the clutch was engaged it would unlock and move freely. When the clutch was released it would lock back in the neutral position. edit: not an engineer, did my best to describe 
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Nov 25, 2020 01:24
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Goober Peas posted:The earliest systems (pre/post WWII) used a bearing loaded check valve in the hydraulic line. Pushing the clutch released the bearing into the valve. If on an incline, the bearing would roll back and plug the valve keeping the brakes engaged. If flat or on a decline, the bearing would not engage. Releasing the clutch kicked the bearing back into home position outside the valve. Now THAT is super cool old school mechanical magic.
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Nov 25, 2020 01:44
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That lo tech hill hold is super cool stuff. My Sierra got stuck in 4wd, so off to the dealership it went. Apparently someone programmed it before me? No idea, since it still did cylinder deactivation, which seems like one of the first things to change. Which means I drive the Binder down to get the last minute groceries. I even put some gas in it, 12 gallons. I thought it had 5 in there, and I've burned an unknown amount, plus some was spilled, and a little for the lines, but I didn't think it was more than a gallon. I stopped the pump short at exactly 12 just so I didn't overfill it. Long story short I have nearly a full tank for the first time in a year. And I was greeted to a surprise.  That's the highest I've ever seen the needle go! I guess the last cleaning of the sender was more effective, and new connections on the wires probably helped too. Previously a halfway mark meant full tank. Also the parking brake softened up a bit, no leaks around the carb, and it started easily. We're operating at our best here. Looking forward to finishing up my punchlist so I can take some glamor shots.
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Nov 26, 2020 01:43
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It wouldn't be a Thanksgiving without someone fixing their car in my parents' driveway. My brother apparently picked up a thorn on his way up here, which caused a slow leak. While I was looking at it, I glanced over to my own car parked right alongside, and didn't like what I found.  hmm  no bueno   bueno  all back together. i re-used one of the old lug nuts Relieved that I didn't have to pull the axle out, it would have added like another day to go buy jackstands and deal with the gear oil and all that. Ended up being super simple, I probably spent more time complaining about it than actually doing the work. Done by midday dinner!
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Nov 27, 2020 10:38
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I need to tackle the exact same thing at some point (1 lug broken, 1 crossthreaded bad enough that it'll snap the next time the wheel comes off... guess who needs tires soon?) Except it's an 18 year old AWD car, and I assume the rear hubs or axles haven't been touched since the car left the factory. 
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Nov 27, 2020 11:44
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Raluek posted:
That's not a third gen Camaro fender, what are those wheels under?
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Nov 27, 2020 17:17
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EVERYWHERE 
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Raluek posted:Looks like I'm having a better day than STR. I've always liked the gold 15" thirdgen wheels, so I've been keeping an eye out for a nice set for a good price. Found some and just got some new white-letter tires put on; would you believe that my unassuming family sedan can fit 255s no problem? I'm not complaining.
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Nov 27, 2020 17:27
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Missed that picture. Good look. You used to see third gen Camaro wheels everywhere, it's nice to see them pop up again.
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Nov 27, 2020 17:47
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meatpimp posted:Missed that picture. Good look. You used to see third gen Camaro wheels everywhere, it's nice to see them pop up again. I was dying of curiosity so I checked the post history of the thread. Yeah I think they go well with it too.
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Nov 27, 2020 18:50
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Started reassembling the intake plenum on the S10 after putting in the new MPFI spider conversion... only to promptly drop my socket to side of the manifold where I can reach it. So I said gently caress this. It's dark and around freezing outside.
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Nov 27, 2020 18:50
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meatpimp posted:Missed that picture. Good look. You used to see third gen Camaro wheels everywhere, it's nice to see them pop up again. Thanks. I really like them, and most of the ones I see aren't the gold ones so I lucked out. I think the spyder has a set of the gold 16" iroc wheels on his corvair, and someone else had a set of thirdgen wheels on a classic around here, maybe a decade ago, but I forget what they were on. I got real lucky by noticing this when I did. One stud was broken, two were looser than finger tight, and one was loose-ish. The second one broke when I tightened it. Surely it was only a matter of time until the one tight one broke from the extra load, and I would have probably gotten passed by my own wheel next time I drove the car. I got off pretty easy by only having to replace the studs this time.
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Nov 27, 2020 23:01
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Changed the oil on two of the fleet. One was previously changed at a shop. Somehow I wasn't surprised when I saw filter wrench marks on it. 
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Nov 28, 2020 02:59
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C-Bangin' it 
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| # ? May 15, 2024 21:40 |
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Spent 3 hours swapping from summer tyres to winter tyres. I cleaned all the wheel wells and applied Bilt Hamer DynaX (basiclly fluid film) on the suspension / metal parts and cleaned the summer rims of the worst. They were pretty clean already, and the dirt that was on there washed off pretty easily. Seems like coating the rims worked pretty well.
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Nov 29, 2020 13:30
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