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skipdogg posted:Something is off. I have 500mbit fiber and I can pull all 500 over wifi or ethernet with my AC-lites I just followed this video to get the basic setup going. https://youtu.be/jwa2FN44rFk I'm on 5ghz, sitting a few feet away. The AP is connected over cat 6 to a basic gigabit switch which is connected to my new HP T730 running pfSense with also just the bare minimum setup. Don't know where else to look since it's all new to me.
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Nov 19, 2020 21:46
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KingKapalone posted:Interesting. What's a good distance? I just walked over to the area in the basement that's below the other AP which is on the ceiling in the room above me and it's about 180. Firstly, make sure your wifi device is connected to the 5Ghz band. If you use the same SSID name for 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz, some devices are stupid about it and will connect to the 2.4Ghz side instead. Secondly, make sure your AP is set for 80 or 160Mhz channels on the 5Ghz band, (depends on which AP model you have if 160 is available.) You can do this on the Unifi Controller interface under Devices, click on your AP. Then click the gear icon, and then Radios. Make sure 5Ghz is set to VHT80 or 160. Pretty sure Unifi APs default to 40. If you have no neighbors nearby, you can also set the 2Ghz band to VHT40. ( I would not do this if you are in a area with a lot of wifi networks around you) Apply the changes. Re-run your test and see if it changed any. The client device can also make a difference. Some early 802.11ac capable phones are only capable of the lowest 802.11ac speeds.
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Nov 19, 2020 21:51
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stevewm posted:Firstly, make sure your wifi device is connected to the 5Ghz band. If you use the same SSID name for 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz, some devices are stupid about it and will connect to the 2.4Ghz side instead. I have a pixel 3a XL and it says I'm on the 5ghz band. I had the unifi controller running on my desktop while I set it up but have since shutdown my PC. I saved a backup so do I have to reload that to get the same config loaded up for tinkering? KingKapalone fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Nov 21, 2020 |
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Nov 19, 2020 22:38
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Hi networking thread, I've been having a problem with our Spectrum internet where the connection will briefly drop once or twice per day. It began a couple months ago with us losing our wi-fi signal several times a day for about a minute. The network would just drop off the list of available networks, then reappear shortly after. We hadn't had any problems with our router/modem combo before, but our router was about 3 years old, so I thought it was probably the source of the problem and replaced it with a TP-Link AX3000. It's an upgrade in some ways, but didn't stop the drops. We've also had Spectrum come out and take a look a couple times, and so far they've replaced the old modem with one of their proprietary Spectrum modems, and replaced some coaxial cable connectors that they said were corroded. All of this has made the outages less frequent, but we still lose internet once or twice a day, and instead of a brief dropping of connection, the connection doesn't get re-established until someone manually power cycles the modem. During these outages all the devices stay connected to the router, but of course can't access the internet. Restarting just the router doesn't work, and if I wire connect a laptop directly to the modem (before restart), I can't access the internet. Due to how the house is designed, everything is typically connected to the router wirelessly, an average of maybe 11-13 devices at all times. I've called Spectrum once since their last visit a couple weeks ago and they seemed intent on not sending another technician out for a while, so I figured I'd ask around here. Any ideas what could be causing our drops? On my last call with Spectrum they made it sound like router might be "overburdened" with that many devices connecting directly to it, so they suggested installing a wireless repeater and having some devices connect to it instead. I understand 11-13 devices all the time might be a lot for the router to deal with, so would that make sense to try?
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Nov 19, 2020 23:12
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KingKapalone posted:I have a pixel 3 and it says I'm on the 5ghz band. I had the unifi controller running on my desktop while I set it up but have since shutdown my PC. I saved a backup so do I have to reload that to get the same config loaded up for tinkering? The controller should start up with the current config just fine. Also install the iperf package on your pfsense box and install an iperf app on your phone and test against that. It’ll get you more accurate pure local WiFi speeds.
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Nov 20, 2020 00:43
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A question about the Unifi controller software, the web interface: It used to, some time ago, to allow the browser to remember the login username and the password to be autofilled. It seems that for a while now it doesn't anymore and the browser not only doesn't offer to save the username/password but it doesn't autofill any field. I understand the need for better security in the business, but is there an option to at least make it allow the browser to just remember and pre-fill username/password? Or, ideally, to not require one if I would be so inclined?
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Nov 20, 2020 04:39
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Volguus posted:A question about the Unifi controller software, the web interface: I think browsers stopped doing that for untrusted certs. Aka self signed ones.
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Nov 20, 2020 08:10
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Good news, Ubiquiti EdgeRouter folks: firmware 2.0.9 has just been officially released. This one fixes a ton of very big issues that were introduced in the 2.0 version, so many that I’m surprised they didn’t call it 2.1.0. Link: https://community.ui.com/releases/EdgeMAX-EdgeRouter-Firmware-v2-0-9-v2-0-9/d75f346d-d734-4026-97a8-7b2d5cc4e079
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Nov 20, 2020 12:54
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Hm. I still think that the ER line is getting wholesale EOLed, but this pushes the timetable back a bit.
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Nov 20, 2020 16:28
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H110Hawk posted:I think browsers stopped doing that for untrusted certs. Aka self signed ones. drat, you're right. Now I gotta figure out how to add it to my trusted list.
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Nov 20, 2020 17:07
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H110Hawk posted:I think browsers stopped doing that for untrusted certs. Aka self signed ones. This is correct... I added the cert that’s in my UDM Pro to trusted certain on my computer and my browser will save the password now. Wish there was an easier way to add a custom cert to the UDM pro, I have one ready to go but all the current solutions to add your own look kinda sketchy e: export from the browser and import using cert manager if you’re on Windows
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Nov 20, 2020 17:14
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smax posted:Good news, Ubiquiti EdgeRouter folks: firmware 2.0.9 has just been officially released. This one fixes a ton of very big issues that were introduced in the 2.0 version, so many that I’m surprised they didn’t call it 2.1.0. What does 2.x give me that the current stable 1.10.11 doesn't, other than the dubious comfort of having a higher version number of the firmware installed?
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Nov 20, 2020 17:48
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Binary Badger posted:What does 2.x give me that the current stable 1.10.11 doesn't, other than the dubious comfort of having a higher version number of the firmware installed? It looks like the 2.x version of the EdgeRouter firmware is now the only one that is getting security updates. The last update for the 1.x version was 8 months ago. https://community.ui.com/releases/EdgeMAX-EdgeRouter-Firmware-v1-10-11/12c0e77c-b677-48e7-b0ca-89f02e2a9176
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Nov 20, 2020 21:14
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stevewm posted:Firstly, make sure your wifi device is connected to the 5Ghz band. If you use the same SSID name for 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz, some devices are stupid about it and will connect to the 2.4Ghz side instead. I set the 5ghz to 80 and the 2ghz to 40. My Pixel 3a XL is unable to get an IP address anymore. I switched 2ghz back to 20 but no luck. Once I switched 5ghz back to 40, I got one right away. My laptop which is also next to the AP could connect though. My Google Home Minis are also still connected. I ran iperf on my phone and router prior to the change and it looked like it was getting 215 Mbps so similar to speedtest.net which was ~200-250. With the VHT80 setting and on my laptop, I also still got around 200Mbps on Speedtest.net. Why won't the phone get an IP? Speed didn't seem to change so it doesn't look to be that anyway. What speeds should I be getting and what else should I try? I'm trying out Virtual Desktop for the Quest 2 and it says I have 400 Mbps and that performance will be degraded. It also says 400 when I switch to VHT80 but if my phone can't get an IP through VHT80 then that isn't going to work. KingKapalone fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Nov 21, 2020 |
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Nov 20, 2020 23:50
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Binary Badger posted:What does 2.x give me that the current stable 1.10.11 doesn't, other than the dubious comfort of having a higher version number of the firmware installed? Basically what Lutha Mahtin said, security and ongoing support.
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Nov 21, 2020 00:09
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I'm going to give it more than "a day" after release to make sure there's not going to be good reason to downgrade, but sounds like I'll finally be jumping on v2 firmware.
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Nov 21, 2020 00:13
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm going to give it more than "a day" after release to make sure there's not going to be good reason to downgrade, but sounds like I'll finally be jumping on v2 firmware. Yeah, I haven't upgraded my ER-4 in forever (on 1.10.11), mostly because I'm afraid I won't remember dick about all the stuff I did to get VPN working or NextDNS, though at least for the latter, it seemed to be a package. I think I left some PKI stuff on it too from babby's first PKI attempt w/ EasyRSA. Could never get a clear answer on why two major versions branches existed simultaneously, but finally... here it is, I guess. If it all goes south, I'll probably just buy a protectli box and stick with only UniFi for APs and switching.
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Nov 21, 2020 00:21
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movax posted:Could never get a clear answer on why two major versions branches existed simultaneously, but finally... here it is, I guess. The 2.x version is rebased on a newer kernel and SoC drivers. These are closed source modules developed outside of the mainline kernel by the SoC vendors. It's taken them all this time to work out the bugs, and they had to keep supporting the stable version until this new one was fully baked. SamDabbers fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Nov 21, 2020 |
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Nov 21, 2020 00:50
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It looks like my Gigabit Pro is a "go" from Comcast. (Just barely -- apparently they approve/cover up to an $8000 install cost and the estimate on their side came to $7946). Now I need to figure out how best to route 3 Gbps up and down. The handoffs are a 2/2 Gbps line via 10G SFP+ and a 1/1 Gbps line via 1G RJ45, each with their own static IPv4 and IPv6. I plan to route certain hosts/services to the 1/1 connection, with most internet connectivity on the 2/2. My needs aren't too complex beyond that -- standard DHCP/DNS type services and OpenVPN. And lots of traffic. Right now I'm leaning towards one of: EdgeRouter Infinity https://www.ui.com/edgemax/edgerouter-infinity/ Looks like overkill. But I have been really happy with my ER-4, and this looks like the only one in the line that can handle the above. Most all my network infrastructure is Ubiquiti at this point, which has a niceness to it. And, hey, there's a lightly used one on eBay for $1200... Netgate XG-7100 https://store.netgate.com/XG-7100.aspx My ER-4 has been so drat rock solid that I'm nervous about going back to a pfSense system, which I've had mixed experiences with. But... $850 cheaper than the ER. And pfSense has a certain flexible allure. MicroTik CCR1036-8G-2S+ https://mikrotik.com/product/CCR1036-8G-2Splus I've never used a MicroTik device. Not sure what I am getting into with these. Closer to the Netgate price point than the EdgeRouter. UDM-Pro? https://store.ui.com/collections/unifi-network-routing-switching/products/udm-pro It sure is inexpensive, and does have 2x 10G SFP+ ports. I like that it will integrate into a dashboard with my other Unifi stuff (switches, APs). But I don't think it can handle the (relatively minor) complexity of my above desires? (Routing to dual WAN, OpenVPN...) Anyone have thoughts on the above? Or another option I may be overlooking?
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Nov 21, 2020 00:53
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Joke option: link aggregation and just put everything on 3/3 Are they still providing some $xxxx-xxxxx switch/handoff rental equipment for $10/month? I think my friend got a Juniper from that
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Nov 21, 2020 01:14
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Biowarfare posted:Joke option: link aggregation and just put everything on 3/3  Biowarfare posted:Are they still providing some $xxxx-xxxxx switch/handoff rental equipment for $10/month? I think my friend got a Juniper from that I think so. We'll see. All they've told me is that I will need 3U available on a rack. It would be great if you could actually use the $10,000 metro router you're renting for a gateway but my impression is that it's just for handoff and you can't configure it. Oh well, at least it should look mean in the rack 
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Nov 21, 2020 01:39
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KingKapalone posted:I set the 5ghz to 80 and the 2ghz to 40. My Pixel 3a XL is unable to get an IP address anymore. I switched 2ghz back to 20 but no luck. Once I switched 5ghz back to 40, I got one right away. My laptop which is also next to the AP could connect though. My Google Home Minis are also still connected. That is... strange. I also have a Pixel 3a XL.... I have a Unifi AC HD.. I have it set to VHT160 currently.. Though I also tried VHT80. My Pixel 3a XL connects fine no matter what it is set to. However the phone seems to be the limiting a factor here.. My connection is 1000/500. my ISP has their own speedtest. I get right at 970/500 on a wired machine consistently. My phone seems to top out around 250-300 no matter what. Its slower on 2Ghz, no surprise there. Pixel 3a XL on Unifi AP 5Ghz - VHT160 setting (was the same on VHT80).  Pixel 3a XL showing 866Mbps link:  Meanwhile: Late 2014 MacBook pro on Unifi 5ghz. File copy from wired file server:  70MB/sec (560Mbit) Wired machine:  Unifi AP settings:  Unifi AP info  I am running fairly old software on my Unifi.. I tend not to update unless there is a problem. Far as not getting an IP.. it might be using a channel the Pixel does not support? Do you have the channel set to auto? Mine always picks channel 48 when set to Auto...
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Nov 21, 2020 07:29
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Phetz posted:Hi networking thread, I've been having a problem with our Spectrum internet where the connection will briefly drop once or twice per day. That doesn't sound like too many wireless devices - I run about that many all the time off my TP-Link Archer C8. What are the lights on the modem doing when the Internet fails? Can you log into the modem and see what the system status page shows in terms of signal and power?
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Nov 21, 2020 08:01
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stevewm posted:Far as not getting an IP.. it might be using a channel the Pixel does not support? Do you have the channel set to auto? Mine always picks channel 48 when set to Auto... Have you done an RF scan to determine the best channel for you? Do you really need transmit power set to high? It can drown out clients if they're too close. http://www.revolutionwifi.net/revolutionwifi/2013/03/safely-using-80-mhz-channels-with.html Also, try to do wifi speed tests with iperf instead of online speed tests so you can narrow down/eliminate as many variables as possible. I had weirdness going on with some of the online speed tests and it wasn't helping me any. Having said that, the Pixel might not be capable of VHT160, so it's falling back to VHT80 even when 160 is selected.
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Nov 21, 2020 15:34
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stevewm posted:That is... strange. I also have a Pixel 3a XL.... The channels were not set to Auto by default. One was using 1 and one was 11 for 2Ghz and 149 for 5Ghz on both. I just set them to Auto and my Office AP is now 4 and 159 while the Kitchen AP is 1 and 38. This was after doing an RF Scan. Transmit Power has been on Auto. Here's the 5G reading for the Office.  Here's the Pixel when idle and then during an iperf test. My fiancee's iPhone XR is also at 400/400.   Noticed it had gone up while writing the post so here it is during another iperf test.  Here's that test  Here's my laptop during speedtest.net  Actually I just realized that the faster Rx Tx rate for the phone I posted was after I switched to VHT80 and the phone was able to connect this time. It even switched the Auto channel back to 149 though which is when it couldn't get an IP address before. Speedtest.net is also showing ~480Mbps now. I'll try out VD on my Quest 2 now. KingKapalone fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Nov 21, 2020 |
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Nov 21, 2020 18:03
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CaptainSarcastic posted:That doesn't sound like too many wireless devices - I run about that many all the time off my TP-Link Archer C8. When the internet fails, the router shows an amber "internet connection" light and everything else is green. All the devices stay connected to it, and the router status page says "Poor Connection" but everything else seems good. On the modem, the lights do not change, so the power and internet lights are on and solid. As for logging into the modem, that's not something I've tried yet because I'm not entirely clear on how to do so. Our Spectrum account is actually controlled by our landlady, so I just kind of assumed I'd need to ask her for login credentials she may or may not want to give me and limited my efforts to the router, which I bought. That'll be a good avenue to try, though. FWIW the Spectrum technician who came out tested the modem and said he was getting good readings on it. Since my original post I installed a wireless repeater which didn't fix the problem as far as I can tell since we got an outage shortly after it came online. I then did some more googling and found a thread that suggested changing the "RTS Threshold" to 500 and the "Beacon Interval" to 40 for both bands. I have literally no idea what the concepts behind these changes are, but the performance doesn't seem to have suffered, and as far as I know the connection hasn't dropped in the ~24 hours since I made the change, so this seems promising.
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Nov 21, 2020 20:21
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Phetz posted:When the internet fails, the router shows an amber "internet connection" light and everything else is green. All the devices stay connected to it, and the router status page says "Poor Connection" but everything else seems good. On the modem, the lights do not change, so the power and internet lights are on and solid. Your router is probably busted.
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Nov 21, 2020 23:38
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Re: gateway router that can do 3/3 Gbps: I'm between the $1200 eBay EdgeRouter Infinity and a Supermicro 1U server w/ Opnsense. Like this one: https://www.newegg.com/p/370-0003-000G9 But, I'm having trouble finding benchmarks. Is the above (2015 Xeon D-1518 4 Core @ 2.2 GHz) likely fast enough for routing peak 6 Gbps? How about with ntopng running? (I don't think this hits too hard on systems that do CPU routing anyway.) The ER can obviously blaze past these speeds with hardware offloading. Not sure about when offloading is disabled and with netflow running though -- and it would be nice if I could do some analysis. (It's too bad the built-in 30min analysis can't export.) On my ER-4 I can just barely max my 1Gbps down with offloading disabled and flow-accounting running -- CPU around 80%+.
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Nov 22, 2020 00:31
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Buff Hardback posted:Your router is probably busted. Dang hopefully not, it's only like a month old. If the problems persist though I am kind of leaning toward just getting a mesh system or something. Fortunately we still haven't had an outage since I made the configuration changes.
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Nov 22, 2020 01:22
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My wifi routers are old (they're ASUS RT-N66Us) and lack either wifi 5 or 6. Since we moved into a bigger house, they've struggled and I was thinking of replacing them. I have little networking knowledge, so I need something that holds my hand. Are wifi mesh systems like Eero or Nest a good option? What's the recommended brand? Also I'm reading that there's a new wifi 6e standard that's about to be released that will open up another frequency block. That seems important, so should I just wait until some 6e mesh systems hit the market?
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Nov 22, 2020 06:44
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Wifi 6 isn't very important.
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Nov 22, 2020 08:01
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Yesterday I was on here talking about my Unifi AP AC Pro speeds that got faster after changing the 5ghz to VHT80. At first my phone wasn't getting an IP but after changing channel to Auto it started to. Now I've noticed that my Nest thermostat can't find the network. I get an error that says nest.com/w5 and that page just says it can't connect so restart it or update the software which you obviously can't do without WiFi. I turned off the connect high performance devices to 5g only setting but that didn't work. I then setup a separate SSID that's just using 2.4ghz but it can't find that one either. I see the radios on the APs aren't customized per SSID so can't try out different things there. Maybe I should manually pick a 2.4ghz channel? I have it set to VHT20 and Auto power. My Arlo doorbell is having no problem with the combined 2/5 network. When setting it up I just had to only broadcast a 2.4 since that's all it can connect to but then switched it back to both.
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Nov 22, 2020 22:39
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Wax Dynasty posted:My wifi routers are old (they're ASUS RT-N66Us) and lack either wifi 5 or 6. Since we moved into a bigger house, they've struggled and I was thinking of replacing them. I have little networking knowledge, so I need something that holds my hand. Are wifi mesh systems like Eero or Nest a good option? What's the recommended brand? The orbi tri-band 2 pack is what I would consider the "best" for most household needs but at $300 it's hard to recommend compared to cheaper alternatives. As of the time of this post, best buy has the linksys velop tri-band three pack half off for $200, making it a pretty attractive purchase, although I think it's way over-priced normally. It doesn't have a dedicated backhaul like the Orbi, which allows you to daisy chain additional nodes off each other (unlike the orbi) but you do get a performance hit. It's suppose to use dynamic backhauling so it shouldn't be as big a hit as dual band mesh. The Nest wifi 2nd gen 2 pack is currently $220 on Amazon which isn't bad, but you are giving up one node and only dual band in return for 4x4 mu-mimo. Those are pretty complicated concepts as far as real world performance differences but the short version, I'd go with the Linksys at current prices. If the linksys sale ends, I'd consider the nest. There's options below $200 that may be perfectly fine depending on what what you'll be connecting, your internet speed and the size/layout of your house but these are pretty decent quick picks.
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Nov 23, 2020 00:15
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KingKapalone posted:Yesterday I was on here talking about my Unifi AP AC Pro speeds that got faster after changing the 5ghz to VHT80. At first my phone wasn't getting an IP but after changing channel to Auto it started to. What I did was set mine to separate names for 5 and 2.4Ghz. Picked the band itself, which is the lowest you can pick. Then VHT80 for 5G and VHT40(I think hard to remember) for 2.4.
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Nov 23, 2020 17:14
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redeyes posted:What I did was set mine to separate names for 5 and 2.4Ghz. Picked the band itself, which is the lowest you can pick. Then VHT80 for 5G and VHT40(I think hard to remember) for 2.4. AFAIK, for 2.4 GHz, anything above HT20 is just a bad idea and leads to compatibility problems. On 5 GHz, VHT80 is a good spot to hit — I've tried VHT160 in single-rooms before, but there are some quirks that creep up and I don't have any devices that can actually take advantage of it anyways, so I've gone back to VHT80.
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Nov 23, 2020 17:39
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I've had situations where a specific end client device just refuses to work on a combination of certain channel width / channel selection settings. Stupid corner case type bullshit.
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Nov 23, 2020 17:51
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I have that right now — I set my garage AP to a DFS channel to experiment, and my 2nd gen Echo will not connect to it anymore on 5 GHz. It jumps onto an AP the next floor up at like -72 dBm, instead of the AP in the same room that on a non-DFS channel will generally have the Echo seeing -42 dBm or something like that.
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Nov 23, 2020 17:55
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My nvidia shield can't connect to several 5ghz bands, seemingly mostly the upper ones. It sees it, it just hard fails when connecting with no particular error message. The Meraki did band steering or otherwise dynamically changed bands too, so it would drift in and out of connectivity at random.
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Nov 23, 2020 19:05
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redeyes posted:What I did was set mine to separate names for 5 and 2.4Ghz. Picked the band itself, which is the lowest you can pick. Then VHT80 for 5G and VHT40(I think hard to remember) for 2.4. Yeah I have one SSID that's both 5ghz (VHT80) and 2.4ghz (VHT20). Once I changed the 5 radio from VHT40 to 80, the Nest stopped seeing the network I guess. Then I made a separate SSID that's only 2.4 and the Nest still sees neither of them. I tried setting the channels for the 2.4 manually, one AP is 1 and one is 11 but still nothing.
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Nov 23, 2020 20:00
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Hi thread. I need some help with my home network situation. I'm quite savvy when it comes to tech in general, but networking is bit of a blind spot for me, especially when it comes to new solutions and technologies (I went to the Ubiquiti website and the plethora of hardwear options is confusing as hell). I'm looking at installing a backyard pod for a home office and home cinema getaway and I'm really unsure about the internet situation and how much it's going to cost me to get it set up. I'll start with my current setup and then try and explain how I'll want it. Current setup:  Brown Star: The port for my fixed wireless is under the desk here. I have my PC, modem and router all here. I also have a network port in the wall here where i have a cable from my router going into the wall Red Diamond: My TV. I have Cat 6 running through the roof from previously mentioned network port to here. This plugs into another Router which is dummy/slave mode so i have an additional wireless access point as well as a few ports for ethernet connections to my TV, NAS, PS4, FireTV, Switch etc. Future setup:  I am looking at putting the pod in the following location (red rectangle). Red Star: The location of Brown Star from my previous picture as well as the location of the Fixed Wireless antenna on my roof. Red Diamond: The location of Red Diamond from previous picture. Green Triangle: I will have a home office set up here. I will be moving my PC here as well as my wifes laptop. I will also have my work laptop here as well. Green Pentagon: This will be a new TV and will become the main TV for movies etc so I'll be moving my NAS, Fire TV and main consoles here. Summary of needs/questions: So in the end, the majority of stuff is moving to the pod. Red star will no longer exist, Red Triangle will be a TV which will need ethernet connections to my NAS (or some sort of central router in the pod) and maybe some wifi access for things like a Chromecast and secondary consoles etc How do I go about getting the pod to be the main hub for the internet? Does my ISP need to somehow magically run cables to the pod or can I piggy back an ethernet connection there by myself from somewhere in the house? In addition to a wired connection running from Green Petagon (or Green Triangle) to Red Diamond, i'd like some sort of wireless access point at Red Diamond too for previously mentioned stuff and phones etc. Not mandatory, but a second wireless access point at red star so I can get good wifi everywhere will be nice too. Hope this all made sense. Thanks in advance. Looten Plunder fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Nov 24, 2020 |
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Nov 24, 2020 02:25
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