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Built a breakfast bar for a friend yesterday.  Made from a single 2 x 6 and 2 fence posts because thats what he had. Its just for his little boy so hes expecting to replace it in a few years anyway so didnt want to buy expensive wood.
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Nov 22, 2020 14:11
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serious gaylord posted:Built a breakfast bar for a friend yesterday. Nice! How did you attach the legs?
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Nov 22, 2020 15:12
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serious gaylord posted:Built a breakfast bar for a friend yesterday. May not be expensive wood, but it still looks better than the rest of his countertops, lol. Nice tapering on the legs. The question is why he wanted it when he's obviously trained them to eat from the floor....
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Nov 22, 2020 17:44
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If you were building a piece of furniture based on something your wife wanted from target, and you wanted that white, plastic like tough finish you get on that sort of furniture, what would you recommend? for reference - https://images.crateandbarrel.com/is/image/Crate/Hampshire4DrwrDrsrWhtSSS20_3D_1x1/$web_pdp_main_carousel_low$/200430155929/kids-hampshire-white-4-drawer-dresser.jpg
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Nov 22, 2020 17:45
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Mr. Mambold posted:May not be expensive wood, but it still looks better than the rest of his countertops, lol. Nice tapering on the legs. The question is why he wanted it when he's obviously trained them to eat from the floor....  Additionally, I'm a bit sketched out by that ledge. I'm liable to rock off that after a few drinks .
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Nov 22, 2020 17:58
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bobua posted:If you were building a piece of furniture based on something your wife wanted from target, and you wanted that white, plastic like tough finish you get on that sort of furniture, what would you recommend? I'm bad at this, but I'd say melanine and edge-banding. My only experience with edge-banding was on ply with hardwood strips, so far.
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Nov 22, 2020 18:00
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bobua posted:If you were building a piece of furniture based on something your wife wanted from target, and you wanted that white, plastic like tough finish you get on that sort of furniture, what would you recommend? Paint. If you can spray it to get a nice flat even coat then even better. You’ll be able to refinish it when it starts to get gross, but it should take a good amount of time.
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Nov 22, 2020 18:12
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bobua posted:If you were building a piece of furniture based on something your wife wanted from target, and you wanted that white, plastic like tough finish you get on that sort of furniture, what would you recommend? TBH I've had decent luck with alkyd paints for tough rear end paint.
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Nov 22, 2020 18:12
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Rutibex posted:Nice! How did you attach the legs? The legs are being painted eventually to match the kitchen units so its just a dowel in the middle, glue and 4 pocket holes on each one. I disagreed with painting the legs but the customer gets what they want after all. Mr. Mambold posted:May not be expensive wood, but it still looks better than the rest of his countertops, lol. Nice tapering on the legs. The question is why he wanted it when he's obviously trained them to eat from the floor.... The bowl is bigger than the dog that eats from it.
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Nov 22, 2020 18:38
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serious gaylord posted:The legs are being painted eventually to match the kitchen units so its just a dowel in the middle, glue and 4 pocket holes on each one. I disagreed with painting the legs but the customer gets what they want after all. Did you notch that leg on the corner and make a half-leg in the back corner and just attach to the cabinet bulkhead?
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Nov 22, 2020 21:59
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A quick little project, some shelves to hold my cutting boards out of the way: Made from cherry and, because I didn't measure precisely enough before gluing up, sapele scrap, to help me mount it to the cabinets.
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Nov 22, 2020 22:03
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Mr. Mambold posted:Did you notch that leg on the corner and make a half-leg in the back corner and just attach to the cabinet bulkhead? No, its free standing. They weren't sure where it was going to go until it was mostly built. The best way of doing things.
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Nov 22, 2020 22:17
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What are folks' experiences with panels of multiple species? What should I watch out for? Under what conditions do you tend to run into problems with them moving at different rates? I'm thinking of making a bread board out of hickory and cherry, both of which have been kiln dried and sitting in a shop around 60%-70% humidity for the last few months.
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Nov 23, 2020 06:32
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Now that my secret santa has opened their present, I can talk about the latest cutting boards I made. My sister's birthday was coming up and she's the only one that didn't have one yet, so I decided to give her one. I decided to re-do a pattern that I had done prior, it is probably my favorite. AFewBricksShy posted:More babby's first cutting boards. I cut and glued everything up, and then realized I completely hosed up.  The pattern is an A/B pattern, I just figured I could reverse it and have it be a b/a pattern, but I forgot that it was directional.  So instead of making 2 cutting boards I ended up with enough to make 5.  One went to my sister, one went to Sehkmet, and have 2 partially finished (glued and rough sanded, but no finish sanding). I took the last one, tossed on all of the pieces that I had rejected because of flaws, and glued them all together for a massive (15x22 iirc) tray. I picked up some iron handles from Etsy, I think it turned out good.  I had to do some serious sanding in order to get some of the flaws out so if I ever get access to a drum sander I'll probably run it through again and refinish. This is taken in a really good light, if you can catch it in a less flattering light you can see where I really had to go to town with the belt sander. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Nov 23, 2020 |
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Nov 23, 2020 16:25
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AFewBricksShy posted:Now that my secret santa has opened their present, I can talk about the latest cutting boards I made. 
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Nov 23, 2020 16:46
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That pattern is doing Escher-esque things to my eyes at certain angles. Pretty.
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Nov 23, 2020 17:16
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sir you are a Lignumancer
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Nov 23, 2020 17:23
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Nah I can just follow directions. This guy is amazing. https://mtmwood.com/en/3d.php
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Nov 23, 2020 17:34
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HolHorsejob posted:What are folks' experiences with panels of multiple species? What should I watch out for? Under what conditions do you tend to run into problems with them moving at different rates? I'm thinking of making a bread board out of hickory and cherry, both of which have been kiln dried and sitting in a shop around 60%-70% humidity for the last few months. You should be fine with those two, I would think. They are somewhat similar, and as long as the ambient humidity is the same for both, I'd not foresee a problem.
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Nov 23, 2020 18:18
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HolHorsejob posted:What are folks' experiences with panels of multiple species? What should I watch out for? Under what conditions do you tend to run into problems with them moving at different rates? I'm thinking of making a bread board out of hickory and cherry, both of which have been kiln dried and sitting in a shop around 60%-70% humidity for the last few months. Cherry is super stable and will give you no problems. I haven't worked with hickory much, but my limited experience with pecan was not great and it wanted to move around like crazy. It was air dried stock though, and maybe not all that dry. The shrinkage data makes hickory look even more stable than cherry? In any case, a breadboard should keep it flat and I don't think you'd have problems.
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Nov 23, 2020 18:58
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I’ve been learning how to make picture frames since they’re expensive and I have lots of stuff to frame. The latest batch came in pretty fine, still have some things to work on but I’m getting better  Made possible by buying a circular saw and router for a previous COVID project
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Nov 23, 2020 19:27
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Cherry is super stable and will give you no problems. I haven't worked with hickory much, but my limited experience with pecan was not great and it wanted to move around like crazy. It was air dried stock though, and maybe not all that dry. The shrinkage data makes hickory look even more stable than cherry? In any case, a breadboard should keep it flat and I don't think you'd have problems. Pecan and Hickory should be more or less interchangeable. It's pretty flexible as far as wood goes so that might contribute to it wanting to move?
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Nov 23, 2020 21:17
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dupersaurus posted:I’ve been learning how to make picture frames since they’re expensive and I have lots of stuff to frame. The latest batch came in pretty fine, still have some things to work on but I’m getting better Sup, learnin' splines buddy! 
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Nov 23, 2020 21:21
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What's up full-sized woodworker people. I normally work in really small wood pieces so don't need much in the way of supply, but I'm considering starting a fairly large project for which I'll need quite a bit of wood (relatively speaking). The problem is finding it! Does anyone know where I could source and have shipped Swiss Pear and/or Castello (boxwood)? The actual current dimensions of the wood aren't really important as I'll be cutting it into small pieces and milling it into the small sheets that I use to cut parts out of. The approximate 'amounts' that I need, whether in single or multiple boards are approximately 12" x 2" x 8' of the Pear and 8" x 2" x 8' of the Castello. As long as the total amount is somewhere in that ballpark and it's at least 2" thick (3" would be even better) so I can slice it into sheets that are wide enough to cut parts out of, those other dimensions really don't matter, just using that for an idea of the total quantity I'm looking for. Thanks!
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Nov 23, 2020 21:39
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The Locator posted:What's up full-sized woodworker people. I normally work in really small wood pieces so don't need much in the way of supply, but I'm considering starting a fairly large project for which I'll need quite a bit of wood (relatively speaking). The problem is finding it! Where are you located? I get all of my exotic stuff from a place about an hour away but I’m in PA. Shipping is going to be the killer if you can’t find a local place.
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Nov 23, 2020 22:45
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AFewBricksShy posted:Where are you located? I get all of my exotic stuff from a place about an hour away but I’m in PA. Shipping is going to be the killer if you can’t find a local place. I'm in Arizona and I expect the shipping to kick my rear end, but on the bright side, the project should take 2+ years at the very least to complete, so it's just a one-time up-front cost. I'd love if I could find both species at the same source so that I can combine the shipping, and I can have the boards cut short if the supplier is willing in order to help with oversized packaging costs.. I can deal with lengths down to 2' for purposes of re-milling it, so very flexible on overall size of the boards.
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Nov 23, 2020 23:04
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The Locator posted:I'm in Arizona and I expect the shipping to kick my rear end, but on the bright side, the project should take 2+ years at the very least to complete, so it's just a one-time up-front cost. I'd love if I could find both species at the same source so that I can combine the shipping, and I can have the boards cut short if the supplier is willing in order to help with oversized packaging costs.. I can deal with lengths down to 2' for purposes of re-milling it, so very flexible on overall size of the boards. The Castello is going to cost you a fortune https://www.rarewoodsusa.com/product/boxwood-castello-9/ Edit: just from some googling try peterman if you are near Phoenix or spellman if you are in flagstaff. Neither have it on their websites but they may be able to order it for you. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Nov 23, 2020 |
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Nov 23, 2020 23:13
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AFewBricksShy posted:The Castello is going to cost you a fortune I expect the Pear will also based on the very few pieces I've found! Was just hoping that someone on here happened to know a good source that might give me a decent deal buying all of it together.
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Nov 23, 2020 23:23
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dupersaurus posted:I’ve been learning how to make picture frames since they’re expensive and I have lots of stuff to frame. The latest batch came in pretty fine, still have some things to work on but I’m getting better Cannon_Fodder posted:Sup, learnin' splines buddy! Spline Bros!!! 
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Nov 23, 2020 23:28
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The Locator posted:I'm in Arizona and I expect the shipping to kick my rear end, but on the bright side, the project should take 2+ years at the very least to complete, so it's just a one-time up-front cost. I'd love if I could find both species at the same source so that I can combine the shipping, and I can have the boards cut short if the supplier is willing in order to help with oversized packaging costs.. I can deal with lengths down to 2' for purposes of re-milling it, so very flexible on overall size of the boards. Hearne Hardwoods has all kinds of odd species but they are serious $$$$$$ and I doubt they'll sell you a little stick. Ebay is decent for odd stuff sometimes too-what you want is mostly small enough to be turning blanks and those are usually not too hard to find.
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Nov 24, 2020 01:23
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
Is hearne nationally known? That’s where I go for everything. They are awesome and only about an hour west of me. Edit: they also have shop dogs and they (the dogs, not the workers) are super happy to get belly rubs while you’re waiting for someone to write up your stuff. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Nov 24, 2020 |
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Nov 24, 2020 01:29
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AFewBricksShy posted:Is hearne nationally known? They advertise in woodworking magazines a decent bit, so maybe? They seem to have one of the broadest selections in the country and are one of few places that also has a bunch of those odd species sawn as flitches. I have never bought from them because they seem quite expensive and I'm far away from them, but I definitely use their price list when I'm trying to price things I can't get locally as a 'worst case' kind of price.
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Nov 24, 2020 01:58
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Are you dead set on those two specific species, or just their general working qualities? Like swiss pear from europe is going to be very expensive, but bradford pear is a common junky yard tree that gets cut down all the time and the wood is very similar-easy to carve, hold fine detail, etc. Black cherry can be quite similar too. Boxwood (and boxwood usually refers to actually boxwood, not castello-you might confuse people asking for boxwood if you want castello) usually is used because it is very hard, fine grained, and durable and also can hold very fine detail, but there may be other, more available species that could do the same thing. If you can us an idea what you are trying to accomplish/what properties you need, we may be able to come up with less expensive substitutes. General properties. Usually European boxwood is much harder to find than Castello, but from my perspective they are interchangeable. Same with the pear. Swiss pear seems to be the 'defacto' type for modelling, but I'm perfectly open to trying something else if the color/properties are basically the same. I'll have a look at Bradford Pear and Black Cherry, thanks for that! My project is building a fully framed & rigged 1/48 scale model (might have to scale it down, still in the early planning stages) of the extreme clipper Young America.  Because it's a scale model, the super fine grain and ability to hold a hard edge is very important, and I will want the two different types of wood for contrast in some of the major structures. I'll also be using other woods for smaller details, but I have most of that already. I will probably need more American Holly before I finish, but that's just for the deck planking and I may have enough already, and if I do need more it will be a long time from now before I'm planking the deck.
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Nov 24, 2020 03:52
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You are a phenomenally patient person, and I wish you the best of luck on your tiny boat. Frame chat: My miter sled is no longer square, for some reason. Getting miters to line up by hand, turns out, is something I need to work on:  At least the spline jig that rides on the fence still works fine (not pictured). The drawbore tenon frame was way more fun. I will 100% be buying wood conditioner prior to staining hard maple ever again, though.  Also, acetone cleans stain off of glass just fine, but only technically does so on similar looking acrylic panes. Relatedly, there's a reason competent frame makers leave a method for removing the pane, and don't dado it 1/2" into the wood on all sides 
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Nov 24, 2020 19:39
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hitze posted:Spline Bros!!! Oh god don’t give me ideas
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Nov 24, 2020 19:40
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Suntan Boy posted:You are a phenomenally patient person, and I wish you the best of luck on your tiny boat. Tiny is relative. At 1/48 scale the hull will be about 60" long and the overall rigged size will be 81"L x 54"H x 30"W. Your frames are very nice, someday maybe I'll have space to set up full sized woodworking stuff instead of just miniature!
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Nov 24, 2020 20:55
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The Locator posted:General properties. Usually European boxwood is much harder to find than Castello, but from my perspective they are interchangeable. Same with the pear. Swiss pear seems to be the 'defacto' type for modelling, but I'm perfectly open to trying something else if the color/properties are basically the same. I'll have a look at Bradford Pear and Black Cherry, thanks for that! Have you tried hard maple? Fine grained and holds fine detail well, very readily available, but hard (but no harder than boxwood). Basswood comes to mind too, but it's very soft. Cherry would be good too, but idk if the reddish/pinkish color is okay. Anything you can get that has been air dried instead of kiln dried will be easier to work in tiny ways I think.
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Nov 25, 2020 00:45
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Wow that's going to be an awesome project! Plz make a tiny thread when you start! If this ever gets off the ground it will definitely have a project thread for the build log. I'm currently about 2/3 of the way through re-posting my last completed ship build-log as a project thread, sort of as a way of getting me anxious to start this one. Hard maple is really too large grained for model ship work, especially if I end up moving down to a smaller scale like 1/72. If you are looking at the model from about a foot away, and can see the grain in the wood, then it makes the wood obviously 'out of scale' to the eye. That's why woods like pear and boxwood are the preferred wood for model ships, as they have extremely fine and very difficult to see grain. Recently some very highly renowned guys in the hobby have started working with Alaskan Cedar, as other than being a bit more 'yellow' it has all the other characteristics that are desired for the hobby. I've never actually found a decent source here in the SW for that wood either unfortunately, so unless I can find something at the local* Woodcrafters or Woodworker source, I'll probably have to order the wood and pay crazy shipping costs. *local only in the relative sense, both are over an hour from me.
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Nov 25, 2020 01:16
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Leperflesh posted:Anyway hey guys so as of today I'm "an artist" because I signed up for this: So my pickup date was this past Sunday. Here are some photos documenting my greed and stupidity The yard where they brought the Boundary Oak is used by a local small-scale mill outfit, they do urban/suburban tree salvage type milling which is very cool. Some but not all of the logs in this picture are the Boundary Oak:  The two big ones center that the guy is working on are from higher up on the main trunk, and I got a chunk of one of those. There's a big stack in the far background left, lower on the main trunk, none of that was much good because it was rotten from the inside and crumbling - this is what killed the tree. I should have gotten an earlier signup, friday had already been filled but I chose a sunday afternoon time slot when I could have gone saturday. All crotch and limb wood was gone. I sort of half-assedly pointed at an area of trunk that has a knob of burl on it and maybe a bit of crotch and the guys put some long bars on the chainsaws and got me the biggest thing I imagined I could fit in my Mazda. These guys were wizards with a huge forklift  When we got home we had a problem  This is white oak, it's still pretty wet inside, and I think this slab weighs like 300lbs or so. My wife and I wrestled with it for an hour trying not to destroy the bumper, or our hands, or our feet, or die. The stupid thing is that I own a truck, but it's not running right now. This is the area that I think is burl.  And here it is situated in its very temporary home at the back of my garage  Soooooo. I have only some vague ideas about what sort of wood-based art to do. My entry needs to be ready for jurors to decide if it's good enough for the art show by September 3, 2021. I don't think this slab would dry by then if I leave it intact, so it needs to be cut down in some manner in order to dry fully. I do not own a chainsaw. My father in law has one, or I could take it to a place to get it milled. Or I could hack at it with hand tools, depending on how insane I'm feeling. It's a beast to maneuver, my wife and I can probably manage it with our hand truck now it's out of the car, but lifting it up onto a table or something is probably not in the cards without at least one or two more people to help. I think I should probably debark it soon, clean and dry it, and I definitely need to seal the endgrain, there's already big checks in the part that was exposed and they'll just plunge into it if I don't do anything. Probably I should saw off the checked parts to reveal unchecked wood and then apply seal. Then I maybe have a few weeks to decide how to break it down or slab it. I'll let it dry, ideally indoors but failing that at least out of the rain, till no later than the end of spring and then I'll have like maybe May-August ish to actually make whatever I'm going to make.
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Nov 25, 2020 01:47
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drat, when you originally posted about that I imagined you would be getting rough cut boards, not a huge hunk of tree. Hand tools on white oak doesn't sound fun, your best bet would be chainsaw or find someone with a huge bandsaw/bandsaw mill.
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Nov 25, 2020 02:22
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