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Motronic posted:Okaym so first of all that's a bullshit-ish label. 1800 watts at 120v is 12.5 amps, which means you can run it on a standard 15 amp outlet. If it really was 15 amps peak it would need to be on a 20 amp outlet. No, it's right, it is a commercial machine. 1800 watts is the max draw on a 15 amp circuit.
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Nov 26, 2020 01:37
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Three Olives posted:No, it's right, it is a commercial machine. 1800 watts is the max draw on a 15 amp circuit. Yet it's still not a 15 amp draw as stated on the label. I know you like to argue, but do you really want to argue this one with the former fire marshal and code official?
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Nov 26, 2020 01:56
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blugu64 posted:Looking for recommendations on a smart plug that can handle 15amp 120v. Preferably smartthings compatible and zwave/zwave plus. I have a similar model at my office. There is an on/off switch on the back.
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Nov 26, 2020 02:09
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wyoak posted:That item comes with the Hub and a remote as well as the switch, but the switches do run around $40-$50 each so they are expensive. They are good though, and they don't require a neutral wire which can be nice depending on your house. This is a dumb question, but do I need the hub if I have a HomePod or ATV 4K? Both can be used as HomeKit hubs I believe. Or does my HomeKit hub talk to the light switch hub?
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Nov 26, 2020 07:44
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Hue’s firmware update for adaptive lighting (iOS 14) is now out in the US.
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Nov 27, 2020 03:02
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:This is a dumb question, but do I need the hub if I have a HomePod or ATV 4K? Both can be used as HomeKit hubs I believe. Or does my HomeKit hub talk to the light switch hub? Caseta does require its own hub unfortunately, HomeKit talks to the Caseta hub which talks to the switches.
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Nov 28, 2020 07:38
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Motronic posted:Yet it's still not a 15 amp draw as stated on the label. I know you like to argue, but do you really want to argue this one with the former fire marshal and code official? Ok but 1800w = 15amps * 120 volts
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Nov 28, 2020 08:37
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Got it all plugged in, pulling around 1230w max (assuming it’s reporting accurately), so I should be good, no switch on the back unfortunately, so this switch will come in handy. Thanks again for the advice/recommendations.
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Nov 28, 2020 20:25
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Target has the $200 Philips Hue hub + 4 color lightbulb set on sale right now. It’s 20% off and you get a $40 Target gift card. Seems like all other Hue accessories are also 20% off. The 20% off is available via the Target app in-store only it says.
Boris Galerkin fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Nov 28, 2020 |
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Nov 28, 2020 20:42
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I'm looking for a smart I have other roundabout means to detect a general power failure, but one issue is that the circuit the ONT is on is my garage/outdoor GFCI circuit, so it's definitely possible for something to take out just that circuit, and I wouldn't know until the UPS ran out. Also second question: what kind of bridge would I need to talk to said smart DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Nov 30, 2020 |
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Nov 30, 2020 14:30
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DaveSauce posted:I'm looking for a smart switch that monitors voltage/power. Basically I'm trying to detect a power outage to the circuit my fiber ONT is on. The ONT itself is behind a UPS, as is the rest of my networking gear, so I figure if I can detect a power outage at the ONT then I can send a push notification or something.
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Nov 30, 2020 16:05
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wolrah posted:Most decent UPSes support USB/serial monitoring of at least power input state and all the recent ones I've used will give you all the stats you could want about voltage, utilization, power factor, etc. If yours supports those features you should be good to go with just software and maybe a cable (especially if it's APC, they love their proprietary cables). I’m guessing their ONT is away from the rest of their networking kit.
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Nov 30, 2020 16:27
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The Electronaut posted:I’m guessing their ONT is away from the rest of their networking kit. Yup, there's the problem. It'd be WAY easier if I could just plug in to the UPS feedback, but that's a no-go here. The ONT is in the garage, and the modem/router/etc. are in the laundry room upstairs. And I guess I should clarify that I'm looking for a smart outlet, not a switch. Not sure why I wrote that!
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Nov 30, 2020 16:42
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DaveSauce posted:I'm looking for a smart I dunno about what you want to read this with, as I'm using home assistant, but these Neos that I bring up regularly work fine for that: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DD7KL3M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. You get volts plus amp/wattage draw. Several people on the HA forums have set them up for all kinds of things like "when the washer is done" (wattage back down to almost 0), etc. I'm not clear just how much 3rd party support Abode has these days - I have an Abode system but it's only being used for burg and fire.
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Nov 30, 2020 17:26
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Motronic posted:I dunno about what you want to read this with, as I'm using home assistant, but these Neos that I bring up regularly work fine for that: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DD7KL3M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. You get volts plus amp/wattage draw. Several people on the HA forums have set them up for all kinds of things like "when the washer is done" (wattage back down to almost 0), etc. That'd be perfect, voltage is all I'd need to check to determine if power is on or not. Motronic posted:I'm not clear just how much 3rd party support Abode has these days - I have an Abode system but it's only being used for burg and fire. I should specify that I'm using HA running on a Pi. My understanding is that Abode can talk to z-wave and zigbee devices, but I don't use Abode to automate anything else. It's the only bridge I have, so I guess what I'd do is connect the plug to Abode, which should theoretically expose it to HA, where I can control it. But that sounds horribly inefficient, so I'm wondering if that's even workable or if I should buy a bridge (and if so, which bridge to buy). On the subject of smart outlets, anyone have recommendations for an outdoor-rated version? It'd be nice to move away from a mechanical timer for Christmas lights, or some cruddy digital one that takes a million button presses to punch in a schedule.
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Nov 30, 2020 17:54
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DaveSauce posted:That'd be perfect, voltage is all I'd need to check to determine if power is on or not. Oh yeah, don't do that. Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X0AWA6E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 That's one of the "standard" dongles that people use with HA. I have on in my vmware server (inside install) and another one one in a pi for the barn (don't judge me - it's too far away for zwave and I want to be able to turn lights and block heaters on and off from inside the house) DaveSauce posted:On the subject of smart outlets, anyone have recommendations for an outdoor-rated version? It'd be nice to move away from a mechanical timer for Christmas lights, or some cruddy digital one that takes a million button presses to punch in a schedule. I use the very same ones, in an in use cover. They've been fine for 2 seasons.
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Nov 30, 2020 18:00
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I am just starting on the home automation front. Working on setting up HomeAssistant on an old desktop computer via Docker. What is the recommended dongle for doing both ZWave and Zigbee? I haven't purchased any "smart" items yet and want to keep options open by looking at both protocols. I do have a question about switches, we have a fireplace that is controlled by a switch. Looking at the switch it's just two wires, I'm assuming low voltage? What would be a recommended switch to use?
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Nov 30, 2020 19:04
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calandryll posted:I am just starting on the home automation front. Working on setting up HomeAssistant on an old desktop computer via Docker. What is the recommended dongle for doing both ZWave and Zigbee? I haven't purchased any "smart" items yet and want to keep options open by looking at both protocols. I just likned the zwave one above. This is the popular Zigbee one: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Silicon-Labs/ETRX357USB-LRS?qs=8HqIXBaaO6wqBnOWG1Brjg%3D%3D calandryll posted:I do have a question about switches, we have a fireplace that is controlled by a switch. Looking at the switch it's just two wires, I'm assuming low voltage? What would be a recommended switch to use? That's a really bad assumption. Do you own a multimeter?
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Nov 30, 2020 19:18
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Motronic posted:That's a really bad assumption. Do you own a multimeter? I do, I explored the idea years ago but never got around to doing anything with it. I'll take some measurements and find out.
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Nov 30, 2020 19:51
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Sometimes they're run off a thermopile. If you could figure out the model # and find the specs that's always a good idea. Does it have a pilot light?
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Nov 30, 2020 20:07
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It does have a pilot light and at the switch it is reading 0.5 V, or 567 mV. Based on the manual I found it's a standing pilot light and based on the wiring diagram it does say thermopile for the ignition. It's an older fireplace from ~2001 when the house was built, we bought in 2015. Edit: I did just find this article: https://hometechhacker.com/creating-a-smart-fireplace-switch-with-a-shelly-relay/ I'll do some more digging into it. Like I mentioned earlier, this was something I looked into when we first moved in because the switch is in a odd area of the room. calandryll fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Nov 30, 2020 |
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Nov 30, 2020 20:40
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calandryll posted:It does have a pilot light and at the switch it is reading 0.5 V, or 567 mV. Based on the manual I found it's a standing pilot light and based on the wiring diagram it does say thermopile for the ignition. It's an older fireplace from ~2001 when the house was built, we bought in 2015. Okay, that's not so bad then. You'll likely need to end up with a 120v smart switch and a contactor, which you'll have to figure out where to put. Maybe you can fit it in the box with the existing switch/replace that box with a two gang. Only problem is for that to work you'll also need to get 120v up to that switch box. That's how I'd do it, because I like to have actual physical switch backups for all home automation.
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Nov 30, 2020 20:46
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Luckily, it's a two gang box with one switch controlling one of the outlets, it's in a corner that we don't have anything in. I'll look into the Shelly-1 as that looks to be what I need.
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Nov 30, 2020 20:56
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Motronic posted:Oh yeah, don't do that. Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X0AWA6E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1  does NOT work with the Pi 4 according to reviews.Although there seems to be a Gen5+ that DOES work, as of like 2 months ago, but it's listed as "currently unavailable" on Amazon. But re-reading your link, it claims Pi 4 compatibility, so now I'm confused... Motronic posted:I use the very same ones, in an in use cover. They've been fine for 2 seasons. I don't see how that's possible! I just swapped both my exterior outlets for proper in-use boxes last weekend, and they barely fit my extension cord plugs. Adding an inch will definitely keep the cover from closing.
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Nov 30, 2020 21:06
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calandryll posted:Luckily, it's a two gang box with one switch controlling one of the outlets, it's in a corner that we don't have anything in. I'll look into the Shelly-1 as that looks to be what I need. Oh nice. That should make things much easier.
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Nov 30, 2020 21:10
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DaveSauce posted:
Oh that sucks. The barn is running on an OG Pi. I didn't realize there were compatibility issues. DaveSauce posted:I don't see how that's possible! I just swapped both my exterior outlets for proper in-use boxes last weekend, and they barely fit my extension cord plugs. Adding an inch will definitely keep the cover from closing. Different in use covers I suppose, maybe hinged differently. I can't close them all the way, but the outlet remain covered from above.
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Nov 30, 2020 21:12
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DaveSauce posted:
Iirc it works fine on a Pi4 if you run it off a USB 2.0 hub - the USB implementation does some weird non-compliant things that make USB3 controllers refuse to accept it. this might be helpful
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Nov 30, 2020 21:15
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Motronic posted:Different in use covers I suppose, maybe hinged differently. I can't close them all the way, but the outlet remain covered from above. Probably, I just grabbed the first ones I saw at Lowe's, the big ugly bubble looking ones. Doesn't help that all mine are horizontal, so it's a tough bend to get out the bottom hole. But even if I cheated and went out the side hole I still wouldn't even get anywhere close to closing the cover with anything other than the cord. Kalman posted:Iirc it works fine on a Pi4 if you run it off a USB 2.0 hub - the USB implementation does some weird non-compliant things that make USB3 controllers refuse to accept it. Interesting, I'll have to look in to that, thanks! I'm pretty sure I have a USB 2.0 hub laying around somewhere that isn't being used...
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Nov 30, 2020 21:52
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Is there a way to get those cheap GE smartbulbs working with Hue or an Apple TV (I think that acts as a hub of sorts)? TBF in 2020 I don’t understand why they would release smart lightbulbs for only Google and Alexa but I’m not in marketing  (All my automations (at this time do this, when I’m home do that, etc) are set up via HomeKit and I don’t want 1 extra app just to control the few GE bulbs I’ll have lying around.
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Nov 30, 2020 22:57
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The Electronaut posted:I’m guessing their ONT is away from the rest of their networking kit. I wouldn't expect a smart outlet to be able to report power loss, it'll just disappear from whatever network it's on.
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Nov 30, 2020 23:51
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wolrah posted:I wouldn't expect a smart outlet to be able to report power loss, it'll just disappear from whatever network it's on. Yeah, that’s my expectation too.
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Dec 1, 2020 00:04
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wolrah posted:Plug the ONT's UPS in to a Pi with WiFi and install NUT on it then. Unfortunately the ONT is in the garage and the Pi/everything else is in a closet inside. That'd be way too easy. wolrah posted:I wouldn't expect a smart outlet to be able to report power loss, it'll just disappear from whatever network it's on. Yeah, that's certainly a problem. I guess I was thinking that it might have enough capacitor power to report the 0V status, or maybe that the default "not connected" value would be 0 or something. A quick search though shows that HA SHOULD be able to report "unavailable" status from a device. So ultimately I'm not triggering automations from this, just a notification, so assuming that "unavailable = no power" is good enough for me. That said, I'll start poking around to see if I can trigger a relay or something to a sensor that would be powered by the UPS.
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Dec 1, 2020 01:21
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DaveSauce posted:Yeah, that's certainly a problem. I guess I was thinking that it might have enough capacitor power to report the 0V status, or maybe that the default "not connected" value would be 0 or something. While this sounds great on paper, HA actually reporting a zwave device as offline takes quite a while in my experience.
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Dec 1, 2020 02:13
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Adaptive lighting is kind of interesting. Kind of annoying that it overrides light changes from other aps, and just the fact that I've gotten used to really white lights during my work-from-home day but it does a pretty decent job of putting out pleasant light all day.
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Dec 1, 2020 02:41
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Motronic posted:While this sounds great on paper, HA actually reporting a zwave device as offline takes quite a while in my experience. Like minutes, or hours? With the UPS, minutes would be OK, but hours probably not. Well, the ONT is the only thing on that UPS, so hours might actually be OK....
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Dec 1, 2020 03:24
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IIRC you can get HA to report in a matter of a minute or so tops by setting the device to be polled for status. Otherwise it’s pretty indeterminate I think.
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Dec 1, 2020 03:26
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DaveSauce posted:Like minutes, or hours? With the UPS, minutes would be OK, but hours probably not. Plug a (second) Pi into the UPS, have it run upsmon and report that back to the HA Pi via the HA NUT component.
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Dec 1, 2020 03:35
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DaveSauce posted:Unfortunately the ONT is in the garage and the Pi/everything else is in a closet inside. That'd be way too easy. Does your WiFi not reach the garage? Pis are cheap and almost all of them have WiFi now. Just get another one and use that. It doesn't need a high quality signal.
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Dec 1, 2020 19:17
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I'm trying to install the Eufy wired doorbell. The instruction says to find the doorbell chime and run a jumper. However, I can't find a doorbell chime in my home. All I can find is a security system panel (Honeywell VISTA-15P Alarm Control Panel) in the garage, and a siren for said system. I do not have a working security system. Is it still possible to install this doorbell? I am doubly confused as there are wires that protrude out of the doorbell slot, although the previous home owners had installed a wireless doorbell system instead of using the wires. Any ideas?  (There is a black wire tucked into that hole)
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Dec 2, 2020 00:29
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Bioshuffle posted:I'm trying to install the Eufy wired doorbell. The instruction says to find the doorbell chime and run a jumper. However, I can't find a doorbell chime in my home. All I can find is a security system panel (Honeywell VISTA-15P Alarm Control Panel) in the garage, and a siren for said system. I do not have a working security system. This happened to my current home. Previous owners drywalled the chime leads into the wall, which is super annoying. I ran a probe & tone kit and found an obvious drywall cut along the path. Rather than re-cut the section out to install a physical chime, I said gently caress it and just bought a wifi Ring Chime. Works great, I just had to hook up the doorbell button wires to the transformer in the garage to get power to my button.
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Dec 2, 2020 00:50
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