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Spanish Manlove posted:hell yeah that rules. whats the recipe for the mouth? contrast volupus pink over wraithbone highlighted with AP warlock purple
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Dec 3, 2020 18:25
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Are there any advantages lacquer paints offer over acrylics? I bought a few to meet the minimum purchase amount for an online order, and after fiddling around with them for a bit my takeaway is "basically acrylics, but toxic."
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Dec 3, 2020 18:39
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 Still not super happy with the way he came out but I'm glad I took this thread's advice and toned down much of the pink. Decided to keep the headcrest thing just for a pop of color and because I'm trying to go more vibrant with future models and wanted to try using pink. Gonna give it a rest and leave it as is for now.
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Dec 3, 2020 20:37
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I think I'm getting the hang of painting fur. Drybrush blending is super fun and simple. Start with color 1, then add two colors on the brush and mix together on the tissue, then one color, then two colors etc going up the gradient. All without cleaning the brush. I started with dark sand and went dark, then afterward went down with dark sand/white then just white on the extremities and face. 
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Dec 3, 2020 21:03
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That looks awesome, too bad none of my models have any fur for me to try that out on.
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Dec 3, 2020 22:19
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Also painted this little goblin for the artel w ork boss 
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Dec 3, 2020 22:34
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I'm on the fence about justifying the purchase of an ultrasonic cleaner. If I'm not wrong, they're good for cleaning airbrushes provided I don't use alcohol as a medium, but does anyone have experience using them to strip paint off minis? I have Simple Green and will use it when I have to, but I hate the smell of it and scrubbing minis with a toothbrush while flicking drops of the stuff everywhere isn't my favorite. Help me decide whether to sink more money into this hungry hobby.
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Dec 3, 2020 22:50
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Verisimilidude posted:
I think he looks good! I like how vibrant the skin is (and similarly the goblin on this page). I gotta ask though, whats going on with his knee?
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Dec 3, 2020 23:13
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Ellaybee posted:I'm on the fence about justifying the purchase of an ultrasonic cleaner. If I'm not wrong, they're good for cleaning airbrushes provided I don't use alcohol as a medium, but does anyone have experience using them to strip paint off minis? I have Simple Green and will use it when I have to, but They are handy but they don't really make that much of a difference. I picked one up at a yard sale and I'm happy to have it. But I wouldn't go dropping serious coin on one. The agitation that they provide I have found far more useful for dealing with 3D printed minis than I ever found with stripping. If you can still go to second-hand shops keep an eye out for one. But I don't think I would recommend paying full price for one even from Amazon.
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Dec 3, 2020 23:15
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   Painted a Obelisk. This'll be a christmas present for my brother and his Necron army. 
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Dec 4, 2020 00:17
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Ellaybee posted:I'm on the fence about justifying the purchase of an ultrasonic cleaner. If I'm not wrong, they're good for cleaning airbrushes provided I don't use alcohol as a medium, but does anyone have experience using them to strip paint off minis? I have Simple Green and will use it when I have to, but Good for airbrushes, 3d printing, jewelry, and they're pretty inexpensive
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Dec 4, 2020 00:30
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Ellaybee posted:I'm on the fence about justifying the purchase of an ultrasonic cleaner. If I'm not wrong, they're good for cleaning airbrushes provided I don't use alcohol as a medium, but does anyone have experience using them to strip paint off minis? I have Simple Green and will use it when I have to, but My buddy puts acetone in a jar and water in the rest of the tank it does a great job getting them clean.
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Dec 4, 2020 01:11
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Ellaybee posted:I'm on the fence about justifying the purchase of an ultrasonic cleaner. If I'm not wrong, they're good for cleaning airbrushes provided I don't use alcohol as a medium, but does anyone have experience using them to strip paint off minis? I have Simple Green and will use it when I have to, but You can use alcohol to clean an airbrush. The thing is, you don't put the whole airbrush body in it because, I've been told, there are some internal bits of plastic and grease that don't like it. You're supposed to disassemble it. I just remove the needle and the nose that tends to clog and let that sit in the ultrasonic cleaner. I clean the body with actual tools, and so far it works fine. Then you can let it soak in airbrush cleaner/thinner if you like. Cat Face Joe posted:My buddy puts acetone in a jar and water in the rest of the tank it does a great job getting them clean. I was told this is really not recommended, as the acetone will eat through the rubber joints and any kind of plastic present in/on the airbrush. It won't dissolve them straightaway or anything but that'll speed up their wear & tear by a large factor. Which might be acceptable to you, if you're willing to change them!
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Dec 4, 2020 09:49
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Goblins are such a nice change of pace from big rear end Black Orks. (waiting on the mud gunk to dry, base isn't finished)
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Dec 4, 2020 21:05
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A few more props. I'm particularly happy with this map table:  Some camp bits:   Two dwarves and a half-ogre:  Some dwarves in my setting don't stop growing at 20, the 3D printer has been a nice way to get a few 'bigger' dwarves in the mix with the smaller ones. The dwarf in the middle makes one hell of a Drunken Master monk mini.
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Dec 4, 2020 21:42
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love this sweaty boy
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Dec 5, 2020 00:11
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Verisimilidude posted:love this sweaty boy 
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Dec 5, 2020 00:16
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orks don't actually sweat, they have to yell waaaagh to regulate their temperature
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Dec 5, 2020 00:32
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Furism posted:
I think he meant for minis. Acetone is anywhere from not-ideal to Bad Plan depending on what kind of rubber they picked for the seals. Alcohol is the way
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Dec 5, 2020 04:13
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Well I got around to it and finished my plague sergeant. I played around with the look some more, tried a new scheme on the sword and so on, but I didn't actually like it when it was finished as much as I hoped. I think the issue is that he doesn't hit the mood I wanted because it's way too bright and colorful- he looks like a weaponized box of Crayola Bold markers. I think I'm going to take a break from mans and work out my basing; maybe then I'll have a clearer mental picture of what I want. 
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Dec 5, 2020 04:13
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Holy poo poo, Reaper's Pharoah Dragon is the worst mini I've ever bought. None of the pieces fit together well even after 2 hours of work. This poor thing's pelvis doesn't conform to any known geometry. I've never returned a mini before but this is loving dreadful.
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Dec 5, 2020 05:07
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Made a glazing mixture. 1:10 flowaid:water, 50/50 with matte medium Did I just mix down the paint too aggressively here or what? It seems to have settled into the cracks and acted as wash. I like the look, but I think I'll need to 'glaze' things once more to fix the highlights  Note the hands/forehead in particular. Should I be aiming for a ratio between this mix/paint? Consistency? w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Dec 5, 2020 |
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Dec 5, 2020 05:24
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As someone new to this hobby I've got to say Snikrot and his kommandos have been a pain to clean up. Such terrible spots for the sprus to connect, pieces that don't line up, and tiny little bubbles in the surface.
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Dec 5, 2020 05:42
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w00tmonger posted:Made a glazing mixture. 1:10 flowaid:water, 50/50 with matte medium Are you wicking the moisture off before glazing? If your brush is wet it's gonna run everywhere like a weak wash, basically. A lot of glazing tutorial videos don't do a good job of emphasizing it (or sometimes even showing it at all) but you want to lightly tap the tip of your brush on a paper towel after loading it up with your glaze to pull the vast majority of the moisture off. Once you've wicked it you should have extremely precise control over where your glaze goes. nostrata posted:As someone new to this hobby I've got to say Snikrot and his kommandos have been a pain to clean up. Such terrible spots for the sprus to connect, pieces that don't line up, and tiny little bubbles in the surface. Oof, yeah if you're new those finecast kits suck (they suck if you're not new, too). Citadel is not good at casting in resin, I dunno what their deal is. I thought people said it had improved recently but I've never bothered trying anything else - sounds like that's not the case. The vast majority of their kits are just normal plastic that are much easier to work with - a lot of the stuff aimed at beginners is in their "easy to build" line which technically doesn't even need glue. They're less posable / customizable but typically everything fits together very well and they do a good job of minimizing mold lines / gaps. Grizzled Patriarch fucked around with this message at 08:18 on Dec 5, 2020 |
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Dec 5, 2020 08:14
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Furism posted:I was told this is really not recommended, as the acetone will eat through the rubber joints and any kind of plastic present in/on the airbrush. It won't dissolve them straightaway or anything but that'll speed up their wear & tear by a large factor. Which might be acceptable to you, if you're willing to change them! The question was about miniatures.
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Dec 5, 2020 08:42
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What size magnets do i need to magnetize arms/weapons for Canis Rex et. al. ? My FLGS had the army painter magnet set (Ø3mm and Ø5mm ones) and the dude at the counter said they are too small.
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Dec 5, 2020 19:09
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Ineptitude posted:What size magnets do i need to magnetize arms/weapons for Canis Rex et. al. ? I used 6 x 2 mm on my knights and it's worked great
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Dec 5, 2020 19:53
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Are you wicking the moisture off before glazing? If your brush is wet it's gonna run everywhere like a weak wash, basically. A lot of glazing tutorial videos don't do a good job of emphasizing it (or sometimes even showing it at all) but you want to lightly tap the tip of your brush on a paper towel after loading it up with your glaze to pull the vast majority of the moisture off. Once you've wicked it you should have extremely precise control over where your glaze goes. Pretty sure this must be it. Definitely didn't wipe it off. Is there a certain thinness I should be aiming for?
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Dec 5, 2020 19:57
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w00tmonger posted:Pretty sure this must be it. Definitely didn't wipe it off. Is there a certain thinness I should be aiming for? You don't even need to wipe, just lightly touching the tip of the brush to the paper towel for like half a second will suck up almost all of the moisture since it's so heavily thinned. The thinness is gonna depend on your preferences mostly - if you want really smooth glazed blending you're gonna be doing tons of super thin glazes (so thin that you won't even be able to tell they're doing anything for the first few layers) whereas if you're just trying to modulate the color (sometimes called a "filter" though that's more commonly done with oil paints) you can go slightly thicker since you're applying it all over and there won't be any potential sloppy transitions to worry about. Really thin glazes are great for stuff where you want a lot of transparency, like say adding a hint of red to noses / cheeks to make a face look more lifelike. Slightly thicker glazes are cool for stuff like simulating shadows with a dark blue or blue-grey glaze, etc. Dana Howl has a pretty good video breaking it all down and explaining both how and why it works: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A13JfFJxtIg&t=921s
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Dec 5, 2020 20:12
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Malifaux in 1e had a model called "Hoarcat Pride", which was 3 little snow kitties on a big base. In 2e they still existed, but the 2e plastics were much bigger (like, puma sized), and you could instead choose to base them seperately as individual Hoarcats (a seperate unit). As far as I can tell the Hoarcat Pride doesnt exist as a unit in 3e, only individual Hoarcats. So, if you come into possession of a 1e hoarcat pride in 2020, theres nothing to do I guess other than individually base the tiny kitties as fearsome Hoarcats.... I also did some two Young Nephilim who, if they eat their enemies might grow up big and strong to become a Mature Nephilim, one of whom I also painted. (These came off ebay already primed in blue, so my colour palette was sort of chosen for me a little. One of the young ones needed a bit of repair round the ankle.)   
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Dec 5, 2020 23:55
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 finished another mek boy, just gotta paint the rim of the base.
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Dec 6, 2020 02:50
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I'm trying a new wet pallet and uhh... What am I doing wrong here? I haven't touched the paint yet, it all just feathered out. I used parchment instead of the pre cut papers it comes with, did I just wet it too much? Should I just let it sit open overnight?
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Dec 6, 2020 03:22
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:I'm trying a new wet pallet and uhh... What am I doing wrong here? I haven't touched the paint yet, it all just feathered out. I used parchment instead of the pre cut papers it comes with, did I just wet it too much? Should I just let it sit open overnight? you could have little droplets still left on the parchment paper. What paint are you using? check out this video for some neat tips https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYVP469_KJ0
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Dec 6, 2020 03:30
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:I'm trying a new wet pallet and uhh... What am I doing wrong here? I haven't touched the paint yet, it all just feathered out. I used parchment instead of the pre cut papers it comes with, did I just wet it too much? Should I just let it sit open overnight? Did you get the water off the top of the parchment? After I get it down and evenly wet I always dab off excess water with a paper towel. You might have just had some stray water droplets. Edit: Beaten
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Dec 6, 2020 03:45
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Yeah it may have just been stray droplets. I'll keep an eye out for that!
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Dec 6, 2020 03:46
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Also if you cut the paper a little shorter then you can make sure the water from the sponge won't spill over into the paper.
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Dec 6, 2020 03:48
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Does anyone know of a good tutorial/guide for painting East Asian skin tones?
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Dec 6, 2020 07:55
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a7m2 posted:Does anyone know of a good tutorial/guide for painting East Asian skin tones? https://www.goonhammer.com/how-to-paint-everything-human-skin/
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Dec 6, 2020 08:53
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Floppychop posted:I used 6 x 2 mm on my knights and it's worked great Great. How thick can they be? I find a lot of 4mm thick ones but 2mm, 2,5mm and 3mm are not as available and somehow more expensive.
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Dec 6, 2020 15:13
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| # ? May 23, 2024 20:04 |
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Ineptitude posted:Great. Kjmagnetics.com If they don’t have the dimensions you want, then those dimensions are probably not manufactured.
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Dec 6, 2020 16:11
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