|
tactlessbastard posted:A question I've always had lightly idling in my head is, if you are going to buy a junkyard engine, how do you know it doesn't have the same problem as the one you're replacing? Or someother junkable issue? It's not like you can start it up. What's the trick there? Many (most?) places you buy an engine from will offer a swap if they don’t work, and the second time you swap the engine is always easier than the first.
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2020 03:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 18:31 |
|
|
My usual yard will let me test fire an engine in the vehicle generally but that's because I've been going there for like... 12 years now. The oil is drained and there's only the gas in the lines but usually if I toss a borrowed battery in it'll start up and I can run it a few seconds and see if it's got horrific rod knock or anything, then shut it off before I do any damage. I've still managed to buy a motor with rod knock and blown head gaskets out of a tboned car, but I chalk that up to being an idiot and buying an EJ family Subaru motor. One should expect rod knock if doing that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2020 04:09
|
|
|
kastein posted:My usual yard will let me test fire an engine in the vehicle generally but that's because I've been going there for like... 12 years now. The oil is drained and there's only the gas in the lines but usually if I toss a borrowed battery in it'll start up and I can run it a few seconds and see if it's got horrific rod knock or anything, then shut it off before I do any damage. If your normal yard is the one you sent me to for the S10 motor I can tell you with a sample size of one that they are pretty good.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2020 04:21
|
|
|
nm
Lizard Combatant fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Dec 3, 2020 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2020 05:53
|
|
|
Motronic posted:If your normal yard is the one you sent me to for the S10 motor I can tell you with a sample size of one that they are pretty good. That's actually the third yard down the rope simply because they're far away. I usually go to Sam's pick n pull in Worcester, if they don't have anything I try Cumberland pick n pull, the one you went to was Johnston pick n pull I believe. If none of them have what I need, I go to standard auto wrecking in Worcester on the way home or hit rockauto, Amazon, and car-part for the new poo poo and crazy high priced used parts. That yard is great, though. I really like the clean dry crushed gravel, carpet remnants under cars set on wheel stands, 7 day a week business hours, hand washing station at the door, classical music, hors d'oeuvre, and wine tastings. It's a far cry from my usual "crawling around in 4 inches of trans fluid and runoff water buttmud mixed with broken glass, busted door cards, and the occasional brown trout" haunts at Sam's, but it's further away and the prices are nowhere near as good. This is why back in the day when NEAI was still active, we had nicknamed the PNP yards "one percenter yards" and Sam's and a few others (royals and brockton auto parts in brockton mass) the "Lord of the Flies" yards.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2020 06:31
|
|
|
tactlessbastard posted:A question I've always had lightly idling in my head is, if you are going to buy a junkyard engine, how do you know it doesn't have the same problem as the one you're replacing? Or someother junkable issue? It's not like you can start it up. What's the trick there? E: lol the car in question is gone already. Probably already was sold yesterday but I didn't want to call at like 10pm mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 11:04 on Nov 29, 2020 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2020 10:04
|
|
|
kastein posted:That's actually the third yard down the rope simply because they're far away. I usually go to Sam's pick n pull in Worcester, if they don't have anything I try Cumberland pick n pull, the one you went to was Johnston pick n pull I believe. If none of them have what I need, I go to standard auto wrecking in Worcester on the way home or hit rockauto, Amazon, and car-part for the new poo poo and crazy high priced used parts. Dry gravel? Carpet under cars? No yellowjacket nests in door jambs? LUXURY! I once spent so long late in the day that they forgot I was in the back 40, locked the gates & loosed the dogs. These were not movie junkyard dogs, though, all sound & no bite (on the other hand, they knew me) and their commotion drew the attention of a yard ape, so it ended well. My favorite local for big-block MoPaR was Pine Hill (NJ) Auto Salvage (yes, that Pine Hill, located next to the racist/exclusive golf course), whose motto is "We have it if we can find it" Most Likely To Create A Sarcoma is (or was): Jimmie's Used Auto Parts near Bridesburg (Phila) which featured a weird purple-ish/blue-ish prismatic cast to the mud throughout the yard. Perhaps being across I-95 from some nasty-looking cracking plant that wafted extremely industrial odors 24/7 had something to do with it. Absolute favorite: Friendship AP in Tabernacle, NJ, in the Pine Barrens. Been around the better part of a century, and they seem to throw nothing out. Wander in arboreal silence while Starlifters and Galaxies from nearby bases do their thing overhead. 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Nov 29, 2020 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2020 16:37
|
|
|
Man y'all are lucky. Of the four pick 'n pulls near me, two are so picked over there's nothing left, one crushes anything older than ten years, and one is really great but does the pull for you, sight unseen, no refunds.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2020 04:35
|
|
|
Wow, I've never been to a pick n pull that has something newer than 10 years old, haha.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2020 04:56
|
|
|
Can any Californians clue me in on the current licensing/registration requirements for new residents? I've just moved to the state (boy things went to poo poo between when we decided to move, and when we moved) and now I see that the DMV isn't accepting new appointments. Before I go stand in the plague line in hopes of getting my poo poo registered, can anyone tell me:
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2020 22:26
|
|
|
Charles posted:Wow, I've never been to a pick n pull that has something newer than 10 years old, haha. Look in the domestic section.  rndmnmbr posted:Man y'all are lucky. Of the four pick 'n pulls near me, two are so picked over there's nothing left, one crushes anything older than ten years, and one is really great but does the pull for you, sight unseen, no refunds. Then that's not a Pick n Pull.  I wish I had Pick n Pull here, they were great when I lived in DFW. My only options now are Wrench A Part and LKQ, unless I hit up a full service yard. Both are a good 40 minute drive for me, at least LKQ is near civilization though (so I can grab food on the way there/back). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Nov 30, 2020 |
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2020 23:16
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:
Google Maps will show popular times in the info tab. EG, the one by me is first thing in the morning Tuesday and just before noon Tuesday and Wednesday. It will also show you current "business", but that's less helpful in planning. This is, of course, an estimate based on people at the location with hooks into Google's services.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 00:26
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:Can any Californians clue me in on the current licensing/registration requirements for new residents? I've just moved to the state (boy things went to poo poo between when we decided to move, and when we moved) and now I see that the DMV isn't accepting new appointments. Before I go stand in the plague line in hopes of getting my poo poo registered, can anyone tell me: 20 days dunno. probably yes at the beginning of the pandemic but not any more as long as you have the title and current registration you should be able to get the smog test done before you go to the dmv, yes. there are drive-in stations everywhere and they rarely have much of a line never. failing that, two hours before the office opens, in the middle of the week. it is worth getting up at 5am and driving an hour out of the city to go to a rural dmv. consider getting a AAA membership so that you can do many of these things at the local strip mall in 5 minutes in the future.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 00:40
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:20 days California should just change its state motto to "And whadda YOU gonna do about it?" Edit: We've got 2 cars and a motorcycle to register. I'm currently thinking I'll load the bike into my pickup and get those both done in one trip, but that's still a lot of hassle to get my wife & I licensed and registered. Can AAA get me a California driver's license and handle the title + registration transfers? I'd absolutely pay for the membership if so. Edit 2: Ah, balls, AAA can't handle licensing, so we both need to make a trip anyway. gently caress you California. Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Dec 1, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2020 00:43
|
|
|
Anyone here have any leads on what fuel injected turn key crate 350 will fit easily into a 62 c1 corvette? Has a gm TKO 600 5 speed transmission customer would like to keep. Looking to keep it around 300 to 400 DEPENDABLE daily driver horsepower.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 00:58
|
|
|
Preoptopus posted:Anyone here have any leads on what fuel injected turn key crate 350 will fit easily into a 62 c1 corvette? 350 specifically or any SBC?
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 02:12
|
|
|
The Motortrend guys like Blueprint motors a lot, they've got some interesting 355s and 383s in the $4-5k range. With that said, if the goal is reliable above all else, I'd be very tempted to do a GenIII or GenIV with a Holley Terminator. After all, if you don't shove All The Boost through them, the GenIII+ V8s go for 200k+ miles without anything more than fluids and spark plugs.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 02:39
|
|
|
A factory LQ4 makes 325 for reference, with a decent cam, tune, and some junk taken off you could be making 400 basically forever without any forced induction required. It's too bad he wants a crate motor because I've got $848 into what I just explained, other than the cam, which I skipped because 325 is already a hundred over what I'm used to, so I'm going to keep it there till it's boring again before I spend that money.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 02:53
|
|
|
I suspect there's a bit of "more bolt in", especially given the five speed manual already set up for an SBC. And/or warranty concerns. But, mounts and transmission adapting are solved problems. The only way a GenI is superior is if you want it to look like a GenI underhood. From an engine management perspective, there's not really any difference for fueling - no fuel injection setup worth poo poo for a GenI SBC is going to be a repurposed factory setup in 2020. They'll either be Sniper-style modernized throttle body injection, or it'll be a custom port injection piece with something like a Terminator running the engine anyway. The LS lets you ditch any semblance of a distributor, and has factory roller cam / roller rocker fulcrums.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 03:22
|
|
|
I felt this should be posted. Sorry if you've seen it before. https://www.reddit.com/r/specialize...tm_source=share
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 03:23
|
|
|
I replaced my 1998 Accord after 12 years last week and need advice on the fastest way to learn and internalize where the ends and corners of a modern awful-visibility midsize sedan are so I can properly soulbond to my new vehicle
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 15:37
|
|
|
On a highway with noone else nearby, I will drive on the bumps that divide the lanes so I can tell how wide my car is. Length of a car is something I figure out after I pop a curb a few times.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 16:08
|
|
|
Martman posted:2004 Honda Accord It was all even stupider than I thought! Turns out the only OEM catalytic converters California allows for my specific car are all not available anywhere, discontinued, etc., so after many times going back and forth calling the Air Resources Board people (including multiple 30+ minute holds getting suddenly sent to voicemail), they finally gave me written permission to install a completely different aftermarket part than any of the ones I had looked at (or were authorized for similar vehicles). This was enough to get the muffler shop dude to install it. Now I have to keep this paper that says next time I get a smog check, it will fail, and then I have to schedule another appointment with an ARB referee to confirm that I was actually allowed to use this part. The cost of the whole process including the part is gonna come out to about $850, which is a lot better than I started to worry. I'm gonna go with comprehensive coverage now, but the crazy part is that I'm not sure if it would have even simplified this process all that much; on the phone, my local Honda dealer people confirmed they had no way of knowing if or when they could get a replacement part and they've had cases of similar cars being towed in and just sitting there waiting for parts that may never actually arrive.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 19:39
|
|
|
I was backing out and scuffed a car. They say the material here is plastic. It is wet after they tried scrubbing, which helped, but did not get rid of all of it. What can I use or suggest to fix this? Zoom in for a closer look.   This was taken by me before they tried scrubbing: 
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 21:40
|
|
|
Good Sphere posted:I was backing out and scuffed a car. ....................What can I use or suggest to fix this? Zoom in for a closer look. A well reviewed detailing shop. Seriously - if you have to ask here you should not be playing amateur paint correction on a vehicle you've already run into once.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 22:14
|
|
|
Motronic posted:A well reviewed detailing shop. I wasn’t aware that it took any amount of talent to touch it up; just getting the right materials to do the job. I don’t mind paying for a detailing shop though. Good to know. I’d like some second opinions. Someone else suggested asking an auto place for advice on what to get to touch it up.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2020 23:49
|
|
|
Good Sphere posted:I wasn’t aware that it took any amount of talent to touch it up; Yeah, do not attempt to do this yourself. Suck it up and pay for the body shop. (There's your second opinion; the fact that it is the same as the first is not a coincidence)
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 00:54
|
|
|
Good Sphere posted:I wasn’t aware that it took any amount of talent to touch it up; just getting the right materials to do the job. I don’t mind paying for a detailing shop though. Good to know. I’d like some second opinions. Someone else suggested asking an auto place for advice on what to get to touch it up. Well, it's not hard in the technical sense. It will require some equipment you probably don't own and wouldn't be worth acquiring for this one job, and some practice to get it right. If you're not really interested in body repair as a part-time job or hobby, you'll be much further ahead just paying someone who has the tools and experience to do it right.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 01:01
|
|
|
Got it. Thank you all. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 01:01
|
|
|
To be a bit more clear, a detail shop will be able to clean off the paint transfer and smooth out most of those scuffs. Any paint needed afterwards should be minimal.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 05:01
|
|
|
What is an reasonable expected lifespan for the body/chassis of a K2500 GMT400 platform Suburban? I'm looking at something with a l29 454 (my first big block) for towing and the occasional drive to keep fresh gas in it. The plan is to find something out west where salt isnt a thing and it was maintained, I'm seeing a lot of 200k mile with minimal rust but my experience on my 94 k1500 was that a lot of random stuff starts poping up after 300k.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 14:28
|
|
|
SpeedFreek posted:What is an reasonable expected lifespan for the body/chassis of a K2500 GMT400 platform Suburban? In my experience with that generation of GM truck, and being in the west where corrosion doesn't happen, the body and chassis will live forever taking all of the abuse you might be able to through at it. Like, sure the door pins might start creaking, but they probably did that from the factory. Drivetrain will also be impervious. Only things to worry about are HVAC controls (which get weird and oily) and typical GM plastic interior bits falling apart.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 14:42
|
|
|
Interior, door pins, bushings/ball joints, transmission will be what fails, probably in that order. Not sure if that's the era that was plagued by the cluster stepper motors taking a giant poo poo, but that's an easy enough fix. Keep the transmission cool (slap an external cooler on it ASAP if it doesn't have one already) and be religious about ATF changes.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 15:43
|
|
|
SpeedFreek posted:What is an reasonable expected lifespan for the body/chassis of a K2500 GMT400 platform Suburban? If my neighbor's 04 Silverado 2500 is any indication - should you go that new or newer: - the brake lines are mild steel and will rust out under the engine compartment & cab. Meanwhile the exhaust system is stainless and will last until the heat death of the universe. Priorities... - The power steering oil cooler is made out of oatmeal. He removed his & looped it since he's doing all highway driving. - You will go through two or three fuel pumps until you sigh & cough up the big(ger) bucks for the best one (we pulled the bed to do it & that's when we found the trainwreck that was the brake lines). - the dash cluster stepper motors will all fail because there was a lovely batch of motors installed on the line. The good news is the new motors are available cheap by the dozen & I can solder them in for you for the cost of the parts + shipping. The bad news is eBay folks charge $400 for this service. - the crank position sensor occasionally takes a mental health day, during which time the truck is so sad it shuts down. This will happen at random times & places. Pull over, speak soothingly, surf the net, then try it again after 10-20 minutes, and you're good until the next time. The CPS is $45 but you have to take post- '03 vehicles to a GM dealer so that they can hook it up to the machine that goes ping! and get charged $300 for the re-map privelege. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Dec 4, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2020 18:46
|
|
|
L29 is solid, as is the 4L80E behind it. There might be a valvebody issue where it won't stay in OD when warm. There's a sleeve kit or a replacement VB for it. I think the factory corrected it by 96+ though I don't know for sure. (My 91' V2500 454/4l80 had this issue.) loving fuelpumps suck. Moreso if it is a Z71(skidplate). Buy once, cry once, or prepare to drop a tank (that's likely full of fuel) with the skid a second time. Load up a blunderbuss of front end parts and aim it at the fucker. Do it sooner rather than later. Bearings/brakes/bushings. Do it now and forget about it. Opt for the tow package for a larger transmisson cooler, lower gears and a lsd! Rear should be a 14 bolt which you aren't going to hurt. Body poo poo. rear air might have issues with the lines as they age. Driver's seats are typically shot by 200k, as is the column. Easy to fix using junkyard parts. Door pins as mentioned. Easy to do. HVAC stuff does crap out as it ages, though it is very well documented. the 400 still uses a scroll aircon compressor which I've never obtained reliability with. These do not use the stupid spider injector so that's an enormous bonus imo.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 00:54
|
|
|
Three separate questions: It's time for my old Starlet to go to a nice farm upstate (actually just up the road, my mate has a 50 acre block). Before that happens, I wanted to remove the roof racks from it and have them fitted to the '06 Yaris I bought to replace it. I'd assumed it'd be nuts on the other side securing it to the roof, however when I peeled back the headliner I was greeted with this:  On the roof side, it has these types of heads, which don't seem like I can turn them:  Looks like some kind of rivet, wondering how I attack it. My first thought is to nip the ends off with my Dremel then bonk it out with a punch, or is there a better way? Obviously not too fussed about making a mess of the car. On to the Yaris...  When I was cleaning it up, I noticed the aftermarket wheels on my new-to-me Yaris can't actually be removed with the factory tire iron. I had a go at cracking them with my regular socket set/breaker bar and the front ones in particular seemed to be monstered on - I didn't go full HAM as I wanted to check first and see if these should actually be approached with a deeper socket (which I should have but need to dig out of the shed). The ones in the rear weren't difficult with the same combo. Not thrilled about having to leave one of the deep sockets + breaker bar in the boot for emergencies but not bothered enough to change wheels I suppose. This bring me to second thing though:  I also noticed one of the nuts is different on each wheel - is this some kind of anti-theft nut and what do I need to buy to remove them? If I couldn't easily find replacement nuts to suit the aftermarket wheels, was thinking I'd just put all weird ones on one wheel and hope it's not the one that goes flat, but speculated that this might be unsafe. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Dec 5, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 01:02
|
|
|
Those are “locking” lug nuts, which you’ll need a special key for. Look in the trunk, glovebox, and under the front seats for it, or if it’s possible, reach out to the seller. They can be obtained after the fact, but I believe you have to figure out what brand/model it is. Otherwise, you can abuse a slightly undersized socket to remove them.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 02:20
|
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:L29 is solid, as is the 4L80E behind it. There might be a valvebody issue where it won't stay in OD when warm. There's a sleeve kit or a replacement VB for it. I think the factory corrected it by 96+ though I don't know for sure. (My 91' V2500 454/4l80 had this issue.) I've been through several well used GM half tons I picked up cheap and dumped around 300k due to rust but now I want something decent to keep and use for trips and towing. I've never had a big block or K2500 but it sounds like its mostly the same but with a better transmission and the all mighty 14 bolt. PainterofCrap posted:- The power steering oil cooler is made out of oatmeal. He removed his & looped it since he's doing all highway driving.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 03:17
|
|
|
one weird trick re: those god-drat lock nuts: lube one up, layer of jb weld, slightly oversized socket, let it set and you have a key
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 03:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 18:31 |
|
|
SpeedFreek posted:I had an issue with the transmission lockup on a C1500 with the 4l60E but never knew about an OD issue on the 4l80's, If I remember right the L29 wasn't a thing until 96 so I should be safe there. I've done several fuel pumps on half tons but didn't know if it was a different pump for the small block vs big block. Is the front end an issue on the K2500s or is that just something to do to make sure it never goes bad? GM's pump. And oh yeah, forgot about the split HVAC that has some kind of weird solenoid switch buried so far in the dash it'll take a grenade to get near it. Symptom? In the summer, the A/C blows great on the passenger side. Driver gets...heat. Full heat. It's a dry heat! We fixed that by cribbing together a 1/2" ball valve with barbs installed at each end, & cut it into the heater core intake hose. Just wrote "Winter --> / Summer <--" on the handle.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2020 04:43
|
|