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tetrapyloctomy posted:Ugh. The only contractor who both has responded and is willing to even consider insulating the garage is quoting a little under eleven grand for flat-studded side walls (due to available space between the walls and the garage door rails) with rigid foam insulation, insulation board glued directly on ceiling, everything caulked and sealed "as possible," four outlets, two 220V baseboard heaters, and drywall. Seems steep, but it's going to be hard to tell if no one goddamned calls me back. It sounds like you talked to a general contractor since there is insulating, drywall, and electrical in the mix. I'm going to just nit-pick the insulating a bit, because rigid is a really unusual choice for in-fill between studs (is that what they are doing?). That method is typically called 'cut and cobble' and it's not a compliment. It's time consuming, annoying, and the result is always iffy because the cuts get sloppy as the day goes on. Why hasn't the contractor proposed closed cell spray foam? His Divine Shadow posted:Hell, your garage? I just nailed up the dry wall and painted it... Probably won't pass code enforcement without some treatment of the seams in the OP's case, as it's a fire separation wall. They could use E-Z Flame Fighter tape or equivalent if they don't care about it being ugly.
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Dec 5, 2020 00:53
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He's trying to insulate the masonry walls of a stone garage, not the dividing wall between it and his house.
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Dec 5, 2020 01:40
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Elviscat posted:He's trying to insulate the masonry walls of a stone garage, not the dividing wall between it and his house. Sorry, I could have quoted more clearly. The OP I was referring to regarding fire separation is L0cke17. That wall is a separation wall, see below. L0cke17 posted:So I need to replace a pretty big stretch of drywall that was ripped out right before roni in my garage when they did a wiring repair/piping repairs. I want to just pay someone to come do it, but I don't know what's reasonable or not. It's about 1.5 sheets worth of repairs drywall total and I've gotten quotes as low as $650 and as high as $1800 and they all tell me they'll do the same thing: patch, float, tape, and paint-match for that price. I actually had forgotten exactly what tetrapyloctomy's project was, thanks for the reminder. I looked back at the pictures - if the contractor is constructing a flat-stud wall AFTER installing the rigid foam the choice makes more sense. I've had basements done that way when we want to keep the carpenters busy, it's only when you start ripping 14.5 inch slices to insert between each stud that labor costs start running away.
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Dec 5, 2020 02:48
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What's this thread's opinion about various DIY garage floor coatings vs. hiring it out? I picked up this set of cabinets/lockers from Home Depot on a black friday sale-- and they'll be delivered in twoish weeks:  https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-W...09-SS/306605258 So, my garage is a bit of a mess and I need to get reorganized, and since this was an impulse purchase I hadn't planned accordingly about doing a floor coating at the same time before I would take delivery of them. I briefly priced out using the Rust-Oleum RockSolid polycuramine and Rust Bullet's DuraGrade coatings. For my 380 sq ft garage, including the cost of a floor grinder, both products come out to ~$800  A friend who did a new construction home with a much nicer 3-car garage used a professional service and sent me a referral to another installer that does polyaspartic/polyurea coatings. Their cost is $4-5 per sq ft depending on how fancy of a colorchip/flake you want. code:The only issue I'm running into is that the businesses that do this installation aren't available to take on the job until January. So I'll have to deal with the headache of probably keeping the cabinets on their pallet and delaying installing it until after the floor coating can be put in. Any of y'all do your own garage coatings? I'm probably just going to bite the bullet and schedule the professional installation and deal with shuffling stuff out of the garage and into my shed or temporarily in the house, but what a pain.
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Dec 5, 2020 04:44
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Clayton Bigsby posted:That looks similar in function to what I can get over here. Should work fine as long as the concrete's reasonably level. Can't tell if it has the option for mechanical ventilation though, which I would want. drat, this looks incredible. I think it'd probably be outside our budget to have the full active ventilation, but you do make me think that I might want some sort of subfloor for the "give" it provides. The question I think I have is whether the give comes from the deflection of the plywood between the joists underneath, or if a combo like concrete -> Platon or similar like this dmx 1-step stuff -> osb -> underlayment -> vinyl plank would give me a similar amount of give. Or, if I'm overthinking the whole drat thing and should just do a standard moisture barrier/underlayment on the concrete and then the vinyl plank.
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Dec 5, 2020 05:41
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Tezer posted:Why hasn't the contractor proposed closed cell spray foam? But for clarification, I'm pretty sure he's talking cut and cobble, not insulate and then flat frame, because there's just not a lot of room between the garage door rails and springs and the wall. Like I said, this would be a lot easier if I could get multiple companies in to see how their approaches (and bids) differ. I've had a bunch of places just not return emails/calls, and I have one guy coming on Tuesday but I have a sketchy gut feeling about the company after looking them up more and will need to do some more verification before I consider them as a viable option. Edit: Wow, that's weird. I had to go to "reply" and then scroll down to this post to edit it, instead of there being an edit button right on the post. Is that new? Anyway, here's a quick few pictures of the crap that's in the way:   And the uninsulated wall segment I was talking about that in building I probably just made things harder on myself: 
tetrapyloctomy fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Dec 5, 2020 |
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Dec 5, 2020 07:24
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tetrapyloctomy posted:Like I said, this would be a lot easier if I could get multiple companies in to see how their approaches (and bids) differ. I've had a bunch of places just not return emails/calls, and I have one guy coming on Tuesday but I have a sketchy gut feeling about the company after looking them up more and will need to do some more verification before I consider them as a viable option. Real talk here: In normal times this is a poo poo job rife with the possibility of unforeseen issues that any good contractor wouldn't bid on, or would only give you "gently caress you" bids so that they wouldn't have to worry about the overruns. The current climate everywhere, and definitely around here, is that all the contractors are busy and charging a lot. There are absolutely zero contractors you'd want doing work for you who don't right now have multiple additions/kitchens/bathrooms and other substantial jobs to do. Yours is annoying, small and likely to be unprofitable.
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Dec 5, 2020 13:53
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Motronic posted:annoying, small and likely to be unprofitable. New thread title.
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Dec 5, 2020 14:48
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Motronic posted:Real talk here: In normal times this is a poo poo job rife with the possibility of unforeseen issues that any good contractor wouldn't bid on, or would only give you "gently caress you" bids so that they wouldn't have to worry about the overruns. The current climate everywhere, and definitely around here, is that all the contractors are busy and charging a lot. There are absolutely zero contractors you'd want doing work for you who don't right now have multiple additions/kitchens/bathrooms and other substantial jobs to do. Yours is annoying, small and likely to be unprofitable. So, here's the deal. As much as I really don't want to deal with this myself because my schedule is garbage for any real projects -- the three walls around the power cage took forever due to short hour availability at a time, my lack of expertise, not having someone else around to wrangle heavy or awkward poo poo, and the fact that everything in this garage slopes every which way -- if we're talking many thousands of dollars here im willing to attempt it. How painful is it to work with spray foam? I can frame a flat...ish and vertical...ish wall, and if I get the garage door converted to a torsion spring it'll ease space constraints on the sides. I'm just hesitant to make things worse in a fashion that's super PITA to clean up. I don't know of you use the app and don't see PMs, but in case you didn't see it: I PMed you prior just to thank you for your input. You're consistently a high-quality poster here and have definitely saved me from my own stupid mistakes and in general taught me a bunch. Same goes with the other folks who have fielded my questions, which must often seem exceptionally uneducated on the topic.
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Dec 5, 2020 15:59
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tetrapyloctomy posted:How painful is it to work with spray foam? I can frame a flat...ish and vertical...ish wall, and if I get the garage door converted to a torsion spring it'll ease space constraints on the sides. I'm just hesitant to make things worse in a fashion that's super PITA to clean up. Don't work with spray foam yourself. It's not easy. It requires a ton of experience to set up the gun and then a ton more to know exactly how much it's going to expand. Garage door springs will kill you. Don't mess with those either. Here's what I'd suggest: come up with a reasonable plan. Figure out the pieces (like those) and what order they need to be done in and find people to do just those jobs. Specialists. A garage door guy is used to dealing with just a door or two at a time. Spray foam guys you can probably find and maybe have to give them some leeway on like "we can fit you in at the end of some day this week when we finish the other big job we're on and there's still material in the truck". Essentially you need to be your own GC for the specialty parts.
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Dec 5, 2020 16:08
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Oh, yeah, I'm not loving with garage door springs. Ive heard enough horror stories from other EM docs about those. That's another thing I'm trying to get guys to answer about. I have an insulation guy I can call about the foam (recommended for insulating the junction between the basement and the first floor, as well as the attic), so maybe I'll kill two birds with one stone. Thanks.
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Dec 5, 2020 16:17
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Some new doors don't even need springs as I recall. If you throw money at it you could probably get a whole new setup that's insulated out of the box and has 0 springs. Those springs were required back when we made garage doors out of old growth hardwood with lovely rollers etc etc. Motors are stronger, tracks are truer, and doors are way lighter.
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Dec 5, 2020 17:12
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loving PO. I have no idea what happened with this patch, probably a roof leak, but they did a really lovely job of patching it. I had to scrape out a ton of loose mud, as well as inject glue underneath the seam tape so it would sit back down. 25 years of neglect in this garage makes for a massive pain in the rear end for prep work to paint it.
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Dec 5, 2020 21:00
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To be fair, though, what you have on that door are extension springs. As long as you only mess with those with the door up and the spring unloaded, they're harmless. You can tell if the spring is unloaded if it hangs there flaccid and floppy. The torsion springs are what are usually considered dangerous to mess with. Mostly when being wound, because one false move will either turn your winding tool into a human sized mouse trap snapper or flying projectile.
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Dec 5, 2020 21:26
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B-Nasty posted:To be fair, though, what you have on that door are extension springs. As long as you only mess with those with the door up and the spring unloaded, they're harmless. You can tell if the spring is unloaded if it hangs there flaccid and floppy. Absolutely, but there's still no need if the reason for removing them is to have them replaced with torsion springs........
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Dec 5, 2020 21:28
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tetrapyloctomy posted:In short, I don't know. I briefly asked about closed cell foam because there is one uninsulated four foot section of wall already in place (I put some in just to have places to hang barbells and cable attachments), and I wasn't sure if something like closed cell foam would be needed to insulate that portion and provide a moisture barrier. He handwaved it away and I never got a clear answer on the choice for the remaining fully exposed walls. Looking around I've seen it proposed as a way to allow an air gap between the insulation and the parge, but a) I don't know if that's valid or just Internet Folk Justifying Poor Choices, and b) I don't know if that's his thought process or he just doesn't like spray foam for some reason. Closed cell spray foam isn't really a moisture barrier. I mean, it works like one most of the time, but it's brittle so it can't hold up 'perfectly' like you want a moisture barrier to do. There's a lot of confusion about this in part because closed cell spray foam is often used as a 'vapor barrier', but when we are talking about 'moisture' we are really talking about 'water' which means that the small cracks that can form in the spray foam (usually where it meets another material) all of a sudden become a big deal. Your project is a tough one. If you were my client, I would tell you that this room is not a good candidate for insulating and see if we could find another solution (can we use this space as unheated storage and convert another space into a conditioned work out room?). Looking at your photos, what jumps out is all the discoloration on the parge coat - do you know why these areas are discolored? My concern is that there is something telegraphing through the parge, and if you are going to seal the wall behind insulation and drywall you really want to know that it is a stable finish before you make it impossible to inspect. The proposal to install an air gap between the new wall and the existing wall is an odd one. There are really very few places where air gaps make sense in a construction assembly, and this isn't one of them. It would only make sense if the contractor was proposing active ventilation of the gap for a particular reason (I can't think of one). If it's just going to be dead air, I'm guessing the contractor is just uncomfortable with the assembly and guessing on ways to make it safe. If you want to do this 'right', I would hire a masonry restoration company first to inspect the walls. Here is an example of one so you can see what keywords to look for: https://bbmsnry.com/. This leads you down the road towards an expensive project with a good outcome. I'm not sure there is a DIY or low-cost option that has a (predictable) good outcome. You could just assume the walls are fine and moisture isn't an issue. In this case, the only issue I see with your contractor's proposal is that the studs should not be in contact with the wall - they should stand off the wall a little bit (inch, two inches maybe). With closed cell spray foam you just spray the wall and it fills in between the studs and the wall creating a thermal break. With rigid insulation you install one layer of insulation board against the wall and then frame inside of this solid layer of foam.
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Dec 6, 2020 00:12
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I bought a credenza that I'm in love with, and it just needs a little TLC. Here's what it looks like after a simple soap and water cleaning. Unfortunately, I think I may have scrubbed a little too hard with the kitchen sponge. It had some very old goop I was trying to get off, and I didn't realize that a small amount of elbow grease was going to wear down the finish: This is what it looks like immediately after a wipe with some mineral spirits. Much more even coloring.  There's also one or two spots with actual damage to the veneer:  There's also various spots with very light damage. Here's my plan that I'm looking for feedback on: 1. Use QuickWood epoxy to repair the sections with completely chipped veneer on the corners (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AA5J74/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3VDBPE82S43CG&psc=1) 2. Do a pass with a dark walnut gel stain, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Old-Masters-...862&sr=8-8&th=1 3. Finish with an oil-based wipe on poly finish: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VZJGPO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 4. Run some brasso over the metal frame (not really visible in these photos) Does that seem like it would have good results? The piece definitely doesn't need a full strip and stain, but I would like to refresh it before it's put into duty. The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Dec 6, 2020 |
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Dec 6, 2020 00:30
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I bought a credenza that I'm in love with, and it just needs a little TLC. Here's what it looks like after a simple soap and water cleaning. Unfortunately, I think I may have scrubbed a little too hard with the kitchen sponge. It had some very old goop I was trying to get off, and I didn't realize that a small amount of elbow grease was going to wear down the finish: It’s such a small loss you can use some appropriately colored magic markers or any kind of thinned artist paints (burnt umber + raw sienna will get you close to that walnut color) to restore the color. Once you match the color, I would just hit it with a few coats of rattle can lacquer and then rub out the finish to match the sheen with 0000 steel wool. Much faster and easier than poly for a small area. Did you scrub with the scrubby scotchbrite side of a kitchen sponge? Sort of looks like you rubbed through the finish on the top, but maybe not.
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Dec 6, 2020 01:20
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Are you talking about putting the stain/poly on the whole piece (don’t do this) or just on the repairs? Repairing veneer losses with actual veneer isn’t difficult. The epoxy stuff works too, but I would drill or poke some holes into the substrate where the veneer is missing to give the epoxy putty something to key into. You can use packing tape folded on itself (so it is smooth on both sides) and a credit card to squeegee the epoxy fairly flush so there isn’t much to sand level. I would use a lighter epoxy putty if they have it-much easier to make too light putty dark than make too dark putty light. I'm working from this guide: https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/how-to-refinish-furniture/. I did scrub with the scrubby side of a kitchen sponge, yes. Basically this: https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Heavy-Scrub-Sponge-6-Sponges/dp/B004IR3044. I didn't expect that to be abrasive enough to rub off the finish, but apparently I was wrong. Learn something new every day. Good point on going with the lighter epoxy. My plan was to wipe down all the surfaces with the gel stain, yes. The idea being that it would even out the top, where I rubbed off some of the finish, as well as fill in some of the various dings and dents that are now off color. If that's a bad idea that's fine by me. I can use one of those furniture pens to get all the smaller dings, as well as the epoxy I put on that chipped corner. But if I opt to just use a pen for all the small imperfections, what's the right way to address the top?
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Dec 6, 2020 02:15
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Tezer posted:stuff Unfortunately, there's no other space I can use. The finished area of the basement is our den, and the unfinished basement doesn't have room. Regarding moisture, it would not surprise me in the slightest if some moisture gets through from the outside -- the walls are largely above grade (maybe 12-18" is not, due to slop from back to front of the home, and a small raised bed on one side that at least appears to have some drainage installed), but they get wet AF when it rains despite the gutters installed on the sides of the patio above the garage. Masonry experts have been around already a few years back for repointing, and they said that some isolated pieces of fieldstone could be in better shape but don't need to be replaced. In any case, what it seems to come down to is that I can:
I think that in any case, the first step for anything can be getting someone to convert the garage door to a torsion setup. (I wish to gently caress I had room on the sides for a jack shaft opener, and I might ditch the opener altogether just to get rid of the opened eating up so much overhead space in the middle of the garage.) Regarding (a), I'll see what the quote is from the sketchy guy coming on Tuesday since I think that'll demonstrate the lowest possible bid that I almost certainly will not take, but it'll at least give me a bare minimum cost to help figure out if the $10,800 bid is just a Hail Mary super-high bid. I do have a spare set of hands for a few months (a buddy is back from some seasonal work), so at least framing something out myself will be a lot easier -- I built the walls around the lifting platform by myself and it really loving sucked given a combination of my inexperience and the un-level-ness and unevenness of every surface and I'm almost embarrassed to have people with Real Building Experience witness my fuckery. I guess (b) is probably the worst option, though I have two people with comparable-ish quotes on separated combustion units that would meet code, and I could still actually frame in afterward if need be. But it seems stupid to do it backwards. As for (c), well, maybe I just need to suck it up and not be a big baby. =D That would solve a lot of issues!
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Dec 6, 2020 13:41
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I understand the convenience of a home gym, but surely you're well past the point where this is more convenient than a gym membership?
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Dec 6, 2020 14:20
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Well there’s certainly covid to think about and at what point will going into a gym next year even be smart. Feels like minimum July. Which could turn into a real comfort and habit of home workouts which might fit life schedule or goals better and long long term will pay off if he never goes to a gym again. It just really is a lot of crazy work to be warm when your lift IMO as well, approaching the cost of a large shed that could easily house a rack and the rest of the equipment. (Assumes space) The Dave fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Dec 6, 2020 |
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Dec 6, 2020 14:34
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tetrapyloctomy posted:(I wish to gently caress I had room on the sides for a jack shaft opener Do you have space ABOVE? Commercial doors have gears on the end of the jack shaft and you can put the motor in either direction anywhere the gears line up with a long enough chain. Slugworth posted:I understand the convenience of a home gym, but surely you're well past the point where this is more convenient than a gym membership? Also this. The Dave posted:Well there’s certainly covid to think about and at what point will going into a gym next year even be smart. Feels like minimum July. Which could turn into a real comfort and habit of home workouts which might fit life schedule or goals better and long long term will pay off if he never goes to a gym again. While those are all good points, sometimes "do something else for now" is the best option. I think we've all had to learn some of that this year.
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Dec 6, 2020 16:15
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Slugworth posted:I understand the convenience of a home gym, but surely you're well past the point where this is more convenient than a gym membership? With my work schedule and other responsibilities, I cannot go to a gym during the week. Throw in the pandemic and the lax attitude at my prior gym with masking and it's not an option. Once school loans are paid off maybe I can justify building a detached garage with an area set aside for lifting. For now, this is the available space and if it's going to be longterm I'm okay with putting in the time and effort to maximize its utility. Right now I'm just exploring what that entails. Edit: A new post dropped while I was typing. Yes, I have space above, but while it made sense that a jackshaft opener could be geared I didn't see any set up like that offhand. Anyway, yeah, "just bide my time" may end up being the best route. But there was no way to know that without actually, you know, looking into it. tetrapyloctomy fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Dec 6, 2020 |
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Dec 6, 2020 16:22
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tetrapyloctomy posted:Edit: A new post dropped while I was typing. Yes, I have space above, but while it made sense that a jackshaft opener could be geared I didn't see any set up like that offhand. Yeah, there may not actually be anything reasonably sized/priced for your doors - like I said, I've only seen this on commercial doors.
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Dec 6, 2020 16:54
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tetrapyloctomy posted:With my work schedule and other responsibilities, I cannot go to a gym during the week. Throw in the pandemic and the lax attitude at my prior gym with masking and it's not an option. Since you don't park a car in your garage, have you thought about going with French doors instead of a garage door? That would remove all the garage door hardware entirely.
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Dec 6, 2020 17:57
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Elviscat posted:Since you don't park a car in your garage, have you thought about going with French doors instead of a garage door? That would remove all the garage door hardware entirely. I've thought about changing out the garage door entirely, but that seems like a waste of money when I could just get rid of the opener altogether if I really had no other option and wanted the headroom. I spent almost forty years of my life without a garage door opener, and if I'm not putting a car in the garage there's no need to automate the process so I can open it while sitting in the car. Weird, this apparently is a motor that mounts to the door/rail itself: https://miracleinstrument.weebly.com/installation.html -- doesn't look like it has the option for safety sensors, though.
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Dec 6, 2020 18:14
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I admittedly have not followed the whole garage door saga, but if you are trying to reduce space usage from it, why not just use a roll up model?
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Dec 6, 2020 18:24
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tetrapyloctomy posted:I've thought about changing out the garage door entirely, but that seems like a waste of money when I could just get rid of the opener altogether if I really had no other option and wanted the headroom. I spent almost forty years of my life without a garage door opener, and if I'm not putting a car in the garage there's no need to automate the process so I can open it while sitting in the car. Looks like it has a torque switch as a safety sensor (if it's too hard to shut the door it reverses) That's an... interesting product.
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Dec 6, 2020 18:51
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Elviscat posted:Looks like it has a torque switch as a safety sensor (if it's too hard to shut the door it reverses) Moments after giving your kid a concussion it will roll back up to hide the evidence. It also starts whistling and looking the other way.
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Dec 6, 2020 18:58
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tetrapyloctomy posted:Regarding moisture, it would not surprise me in the slightest if some moisture gets through from the outside -- the walls are largely above grade (maybe 12-18" is not, due to slop from back to front of the home, and a small raised bed on one side that at least appears to have some drainage installed), but they get wet AF when it rains despite the gutters installed on the sides of the patio above the garage. Masonry experts have been around already a few years back for repointing, and they said that some isolated pieces of fieldstone could be in better shape but don't need to be replaced. My framework for giving building advice is that it's expensive, so whatever I advise should last a long time. In the case of your project, perhaps that guiding principle needs to get tossed, and you should just build something that is generally reversible so you can tear it out if something starts going sideways in a couple of years. You need a moisture barrier separating the new work from the existing wall. I would normally advise a peel and stick membrane like Grace Ice and Water or something, but that can be hard to reverse. Maybe just 6mil poly sheeting is the right call. Then you need insulation, rigid foam boards probably make sense because closed cell spray foam is a beast to tear out if there is an issue. I can't tell you how much to install without knowing your climate zone, and I'm guessing you won't be able to hit code next to the garage door. In areas next to the garage door where depth is an issue, put as much foam as you can and then 1x4s can be installed on top of the insulation as a nailing surface for drywall - you can even do that everywhere if you'd like. Usually the foam gets glued to the wall, but that may not be ideal for your situation if you want to tear it out in the future. Next you need a thermal barrier, just use drywall. It needs to be taped, but if you don't care how it looks and aren't planning to paint you can use fire tape like E-Z Flame Fighter. This gets you a reasonably reversible installation that isn't a huge fire hazard. It may not or does not meet code in the following ways: 1. Insulation probably isn't deep enough in certain areas like next to the garage door 2. Some codes don't let you heat a garage above 50F (or 55F?) under any circumstances 3. I haven't covered code required electrical 4. The vapor barrier is on the wrong side of the assembly (supposed to be on the 'warm in winter' side)
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Dec 6, 2020 19:17
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H110Hawk posted:Moments after giving your kid a concussion it will roll back up to hide the evidence. It also starts whistling and looking the other way. The garage door at work uses a pneumatic switch, i.e. there's a "pillow" on the bottom of the door, if it hits something it activates a pressure switch (connected with a length of plastic tubing) that stops the door. It's such a convoluted, failure prone system, and it scares me.
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Dec 6, 2020 19:40
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Elviscat posted:The garage door at work uses a pneumatic switch, i.e. there's a "pillow" on the bottom of the door, if it hits something it activates a pressure switch (connected with a length of plastic tubing) that stops the door. That's pretty much every commercial door I've seen. Also, the torque limiting cut out thing is the backup on every commercial and residential door I've ever seen. It's not considered to be sufficient for a primary safety device and I assume it's on resi gear for the people who tape the sensors together and set them on top of the opener when they install it.
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Dec 6, 2020 19:43
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Saw a new house listing (I have a house, but I'm interested in trying for some real estate investments). Went to drive by to check it out since it's $50k and there weren't a lot of pictures. Turns out the reason there aren't a lot of pictures is because the house is sitting on two giant I-beams and the front foundation has collapsed in. I wish I would have taken pictures. I walked around it to take a look. Here's some things besides the foundation having collapsed in: - No walls inside the house. Could see in the windows and straight out the other side - Tub and fridge were still present right next to each other - No siding - Roof was fine - No kitchen (cabinets, sink, range) in sight - Basement looked like they had dug down below the foundation level by at least 2 feet. Could tell where the floor was originally by the rebar jutting out from the walls still present - No basement floor, just the dirt aforementioned - The garage was actually in perfect shape. That's what I can remember off the top of my head. I joked with my partner they'd have to pay me to take it off their hands. It's literally just a shell of a house sitting on two I-beams. Crazy thing is the house sold last in 2017 for ~$100k so I've got to figure something went wrong with a remodel. I'll keep looking for an investment opportunity.
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Dec 6, 2020 22:11
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Earth posted:the house is sitting on two giant I-beams and the front foundation has collapsed in. Yes, that's what went wrong. Amateurs trying to dig out a basement to gain ceiling height have destroyed many a house this way.
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Dec 6, 2020 22:25
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tetrapyloctomy posted:Anyway, yeah, "just bide my time" may end up being the best route. But there was no way to know that without actually, you know, looking into it. I feel like this has almost certainly already been posted, but what about a portable buddy heater? They’re designed to do exactly what you are looking for—that is to quickly, and temporarily heat up a non conditioned space. They’re even safe to run inside and are nearly 100% efficient. At the very least it would get you warm now while you figure out what if anything you want to do long term.
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Dec 6, 2020 23:13
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OSU_Matthew posted:I feel like this has almost certainly already been posted, but what about a portable buddy heater? They’re designed to do exactly what you are looking for—that is to quickly, and temporarily heat up a non conditioned space. They’re even safe to run inside and are nearly 100% efficient. At the very least it would get you warm now while you figure out what if anything you want to do long term. Will that heat up all of the metal he's touching? Also, "almost 100% efficient" applies to all electric resistance heat and is a remarkably BAD thing. This is where 100% is like, nearly the worst you can be at this.
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Dec 6, 2020 23:25
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Motronic posted:Yes, that's what went wrong. Amateurs trying to dig out a basement to gain ceiling height have destroyed many a house this way. From what I saw I wouldn't say for sure it was this. With those I-beams present and the entire house stripped I'd guess they were experienced of some kind or another and ran out of money and need to drop it. Probably got too deep in a cash crunch time.
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Dec 6, 2020 23:56
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Oh hey, it's my house in another 2 years.
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Dec 6, 2020 23:58
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Earth posted:From what I saw I wouldn't say for sure it was this. With those I-beams present and the entire house stripped I'd guess they were experienced of some kind or another and ran out of money and need to drop it. Probably got too deep in a cash crunch time. If you're saying the I beams that were there were temporary but correct support then they were trying to fix a foundation problem and yeah, I'd agree then that they probably ran out of money.
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Dec 6, 2020 23:59
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