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$2k in Colorado easily. I don’t know what the market is like elsewhere but any rusted poo poo pile XJ is worth at least 2k here.
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Nov 10, 2020 18:04
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That sounds like the idle air control valve, which is both cheap ($12-$33 at Rockauto)and very easy to replace (two bolts and an electrical connector, unless there's something fucky about earlier 4.0s I don't know about). Agreed that at $2k or less it should sell fast. Selling for nearly any amount of money is probably coming out way ahead of a donation unless they just really don't want to deal with actually selling it to a person and the poo poo that involves.
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Nov 10, 2020 18:38
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Yeah, I'd probably list it for $4k and let them talk down to 2-3, but $2k is, like, safe. If she asks for $2k, I'd be surprised if she didn't sell it same day.
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Nov 10, 2020 18:45
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So the latest starter that I've put under the Jeep has a flat blade connector for the ground cable. It had a habit of vibrating off so I'd have to get under the jeep to slide the terminal back on. I drilled a tiny hole in the female side of the connector so that I could make the connection and then run a thin wire through like a cotter pin to keep the halves together. That worked fine for a while, but now it's getting loose and dirty enough to cause a no-start every now and then. I'm sure the answer is to make the connection better, but how do I do that with a flat blade connection?
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Nov 16, 2020 21:40
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The first thing I'd do is cut it off and crimp on a ring terminal.
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Nov 16, 2020 21:48
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Astonishing Wang posted:So the latest starter that I've put under the Jeep has a flat blade connector for the ground cable. It had a habit of vibrating off so I'd have to get under the jeep to slide the terminal back on. I drilled a tiny hole in the female side of the connector so that I could make the connection and then run a thin wire through like a cotter pin to keep the halves together. That worked fine for a while, but now it's getting loose and dirty enough to cause a no-start every now and then. I'm sure the answer is to make the connection better, but how do I do that with a flat blade connection? Or what Safety Dance said, if it’s an option, but I understood it as on the starter, not the cable. But, still, replace if at all possible.
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Nov 16, 2020 21:50
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Krakkles posted:Or what Safety Dance said, if it’s an option, but I understood it as on the starter, not the cable. But, still, replace if at all possible. Oh, duh, yeah I probably misunderstood.
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Nov 16, 2020 21:53
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I'm confused as to what ground wire there would be. Every starter I've ever messed with grounds through the mechanical connection to the block or transmission bellhousing.
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Nov 16, 2020 22:03
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I'm gettting ready to put the new axle in. I am also replacing the drag link and track bar since the ends felt crunchy. Now that that is out, I can feel a slight clunk from my pitman arm. Not much, just a little one. Apparently with the JK the 2008-2010 came with a rebuildable and adjustable steering box, this one shouldn't be. If there were a time to replace it, it would be now. Any opinions? Before my steering wheel had a 5-10 degree dead zone.
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Nov 16, 2020 22:13
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm confused as to what ground wire there would be. Every starter I've ever messed with grounds through the mechanical connection to the block or transmission bellhousing.
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Nov 16, 2020 22:14
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Krakkles posted:I’m thinking it has to be Ignition hot to starter solenoid. I was thinking maybe the same thing but those have been ring terminals on the vast majority of starters I've dealt with. My Opel is the only one I can think of that has a spade there but literally everything about the wiring on that car is "loving stupid".
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Nov 16, 2020 22:17
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Cheap aftermarket starter, probably. Did Opel use Lucas parts?
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Nov 16, 2020 22:35
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I think you guys are probably right. I'll take a photo of it just to shut up the lingering questions that we'll all have if I don't.
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Nov 16, 2020 23:21
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Sounds like the starter solenoid trigger wire to me, too. I usually see ring terminals or connectors with a retention tab on them there, though Subarus have a plain old quarter inch disconnect tab like that. Which basically tells you not to do it the way Subaru did it, always good advice. I'd drill a hole through it and use a ring terminal.
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Nov 18, 2020 00:04
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kastein posted:Sounds like the starter solenoid trigger wire to me, too. I usually see ring terminals or connectors with a retention tab on them there, though Subarus have a plain old quarter inch disconnect tab like that. Which basically tells you not to do it the way Subaru did it, always good advice. So you guys were right - it's the tab to the starter solenoid trigger. I cleaned it up and had a shop solder on a wire, which I connected to a weather-proof 2-wire connector. It didn't look quite thick enough for a through-bolt to work, unless I went an sourced an extra small bolt. Here's how it looked as removed:  With a cleanup and some solder, then wrapped with electrical tape:   I was watching the Baja 1000 yesterday near my house and I couldn't get the Jeep to start when it was time to leave. I tried rolling it down a hill and bump starting in reverse, which didn't work. I tried bump starting while being towed forward, which didn't work either. They towed me home and this morning I checked the fuses and relays. Everything looked fine, but I switched the starter relay out for the O2 sensor relay and the Jeep started right up. I yanked the starter, cleaned it up and had the soldering done, then reinstalled. It fired up 4 or 5 times in a row. I went for a 1/4 mile test drive, shut it off, and it fired up again no problem. I then drove another mile or so of kind of hard driving, and noticed that the battery voltage was going up past 14 (the middle on gauge), probably to 15-16v on the gauge. The Jeep wouldn't start again after I got home. There's a problem with the ignition that's been going on for a while but I don't know if that's related. I have a new ignition tumbler to put in but I'm apprehensive about it making a difference and I'd like to determine the problem before changing anything else. The problem is that the key can be removed while driving, but it will still go in to all positions. The voltage being high points me towards the alternator I believe, which is practically brand new with maybe 500 miles on it. It's a 160ish amp alternator from a Durango. I know that I need to go through the grounds to make sure everything is clean, which has been a problem on my Jeep before with all the fuckin' dust and mud that I subject it to.
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Nov 22, 2020 00:30
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That crimp is bothering the gently caress out of me. They used... Um... I have no idea what instead of a proper crimper.
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Nov 22, 2020 03:46
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kastein posted:That crimp is bothering the gently caress out of me. They used... Um... I have no idea what instead of a proper crimper. I'm sorry, that was me. I used crimping pliers but maybe not the right ones for the job.
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Nov 22, 2020 05:18
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Ahh, uninsulated barrel crimpers I'm guessing? You're killing me here man. This is like a nerd trap of the worst kind.
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Nov 22, 2020 07:40
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kastein posted:Ahh, uninsulated barrel crimpers I'm guessing? I think I used them upside down  
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Nov 22, 2020 17:52
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Astonishing Wang posted:Danger danger, high voltage. High voltage could be the alternator or a bad battery connection/cable. The voltage regulator assumes there is somewhere for the electricity to go and the voltage can increase of there is nowhere for the excess to go.
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Nov 22, 2020 23:28
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High voltage on an early 2000s Jeep, you say?
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Nov 23, 2020 02:55
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The starter is bad anyway, so you won't have to worry about that crimp being in service. Looks like dirty connections plus a bad starter. Voltage still reads a little high but I have more connections to clean. The jeep runs with the positive battery terminal disconnected which means the alternator is working, right?
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Nov 23, 2020 19:15
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Yes, but that's a really great way to kill electrical stuff in a modern vehicle! There's no bulk filter capacitor in a car charging system since the battery is supposed to soak up the high points, and the regulation controls will usually go wild and your headlights will flicker and stuff.
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Nov 23, 2020 19:41
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I bought an autozone rebuilt starter and the snout was about an 8th of an inch too long, so it didn't work and made terrible noises. I took the original starter back to the local autoelectrico guy and he rebuilt it for about $50, replacing windings, bendix, everything but the housing. He even soldered a new lead for the solenoid on for me, and the crimp looks better   
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Nov 24, 2020 20:01
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I've had the "starter too long" problem on a 5.2 V8 ZJ before. Also from Autozone.
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Nov 24, 2020 20:11
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So bragging about my cheap starter has come back to bite my rear end. Starter didn't fix the problem. I thought that it was a bad starter because it failed to start, and then I thought the new starter was too long. I replaced it with the original rebuilt starter and its making super gnarly grinding gear noises, just as it did with the new starter. Now I'm thinking back to a couple of days ago when it wouldn't start. It also wouldn't BUMP start, in forward or reverse. Now, with the starter installed it tries to spin but jumps and grinds, like something is in the way and/or not meshing. Am I looking at a possible damaged flywheel? Is there something else that would keep it from turning enough to start? Maybe an exploded timing chain sort of deal? I feel like the starter is now not my issue. What should be my next step, I'm thinking I need to see if I can turn the motor by hand. I guess I can start by pulling the inspection plate back a little. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Nov 25, 2020 |
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Nov 25, 2020 00:48
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Astonishing Wang posted:So bragging about my cheap starter has come back to bite my rear end. If it were my engine, I'd pull all the spark plugs out and try to turn it over either by hand or with the starter. At the very least it will make things easer to sense if you have an obstruction. There is also a small chance that some amount of water and or fuel will shoot out of the open plug hole if you've got a Problem. Also, just as a sanity check you should double check that the starter is properly seated before you get too far into diagnosis. Don't be like me when I went playing around with test lights and sent out an email to the company that rebuilt my engine computer because I hadn't bothered to fully push a connector onto a terminal. Cat Hatter fucked around with this message at 09:17 on Nov 25, 2020 |
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Nov 25, 2020 09:10
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I've definitely made sure it was seated, I'm worried that I've done damage by trying it too many times.
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Nov 25, 2020 16:54
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Oh my god I have finally made progress on my GM d60 axle restoration. The absolute state of it when I first received it:  Added some clean double sheer arms.  Rest of the loving owl:   Cut and ground off all the old mounts for a CUCV, welded on new leaf perches for m715. New chromo axles/ujoints and upgraded to 35 spline outers + 35 spline yukon locking hubs. New disc brake calipers. New disc brake rotors (one was cracked). New diff cover. New seals. It's about 85% done. I still need to put it into the truck and weld up a passenger side ubolt bracket and shock tabs, etc. Then build the drag link. Shout out to Evaporust, that stuff is clutch.
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Nov 26, 2020 01:47
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Astonishing Wang posted:I've definitely made sure it was seated, I'm worried that I've done damage by trying it too many times. Make sure it will turn over by hand, don't panic yet. After that, have a helper engage the starter while you watch and see if the engine is turning or not. It's possible that you will need to shim the starter.
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Nov 26, 2020 02:14
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Apparently i am blind because i never knew this thread existed until a friend mentioned it to me. Have some pictures of my buttless champion. Excessive antennas are due to my ham radio hobbies.  
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Dec 5, 2020 13:42
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Not An Arsonist posted:Apparently i am blind because i never knew this thread existed until a friend mentioned it to me. Have some pictures of my buttless champion. Excessive antennas are due to my ham radio hobbies. 
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Dec 5, 2020 16:15
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Has there been any scuttlebutt on the 4xe release date and pricing? I haven't found anything beyond soon
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Dec 5, 2020 17:27
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Krataar posted:Has there been any scuttlebutt on the 4xe release date and pricing? I haven't found anything beyond soon nope, although the huge thing to look for is how much weight the hybrid system adds since the diesel already cuts deeply into the max cargo weight capacity
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Dec 7, 2020 15:53
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Got a recall for my EGR that could fail and spray coolant into the engine intake. Oh, sorry! FCA doesn't have the parts yet, but we'll let you know when we do. E: Well, maybe I'll get a new engine out of it or something.
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Dec 12, 2020 05:32
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Krataar posted:Has there been any scuttlebutt on the 4xe release date and pricing? I haven't found anything beyond soon On the JL forum people have ordered them and they've started building them. Insane to me people have ordered them without the pricing details. Apparently they're going to be on a 3 month quality hold. Two things Jeep thread: I got my new axles in. I replaced the ball joints, drag link and track bar. When turning right I get a clunk the first 1-2 right turns of a drive. What could it be? Also narrowed down my radiator leak to a common spot apparently at a crimp at the corner. I've lost 1/2 gallon of coolant over the last year, worth replacing it or screw it? Add in the persistent P0456 code and I'm a bit tired of this drat Jeep, at some point there are no more issues right?
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Dec 28, 2020 03:15
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Man I hope they do an ECLB or CCLB 4xe Gladiator. I'd rather buy that than the butt ugly cybertruck...
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Dec 28, 2020 03:45
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Considering they squeezed the 4xe system in the Wrangler, I doubt another body configuration of the Gladiator will come out. They didn't mention it, but I assume it lost the fold down rear seats for the battery space. My Civic lease is up in August, the 4xe Wrangler is at the top of my list next and should be easy to get by then. Maybe the Gladiator 4xe will trail less than a year behind like the diesel did. One fits in my garage, the other won't, so charging would be an issue. Fortunately with the small battery they're using it won't be bad to charge on 110V.
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Dec 30, 2020 04:49
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Hello, Jeep thread! I am looking for someone to sanity check me to make sure I'm not missing something obvious and that I have covered all of my bases. I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4. I was driving to Houston a few weeks ago and stopped midway to buy fuel. I'm about 90 minutes into my trip. Just before I went to get off the interstate, the speedo and fuel gauge quit working. The speedo came back after bumping the dash (it's been years since I last cleaned the connectors for the gauge cluster), but the fuel gauge didn't. I shrugged this off and hit the clutch to start getting off the interstate and realize that the motor is hanging around 2500. I'm assuming this problem is the IAC as the symptoms were pretty similar to the last time I replaced the IAC 6 or 7 years ago. The rest of my trip to Houston and home are uneventful. At home, I throw a new IAC at the Jeep and have no change in idle speed. It's between 1700-2500rpms depending on whether the motor is cold or hot. At this point, I suspect something physical isn't right. I clean the heck out of the throttle body and everything looks good. The throttle plate is sealing, the IAC o-ring is undamaged and the mating surface is clean. I reassemble everything and have no change. At this point, I'm suspecting a possible vacuum leak and cap off all of the vacuum ports on the intake manifold. Again, no change. I break out the starting fluid and spray all around the outside of the throttle body, I hit all of the sensors on the throttle body, the IAT on the intake manifold, around all of the vacuum ports on the intake manifold and around the fuel injectors. I don't notice the motor revving higher and can not hear a change in tone of the motor letting me know it's getting more fuel from the ether I'm spraying around. At this point, I break out the diagnostics manual from the FSM and run through the idle air circuit troubleshooting. Step 1 for troubleshooting was to make sure that physically the throttle body was clean and not damaged. I pulled everything back apart and looked at the IAC again at this point and put the previously working IAC (the one that stopped on the way to Houston) back in the Jeep. I have about 0 ohms resistance from the ECU connector to the IAC plug on all 4 wires. The FSM says I should have <5 Ohms resistance. The FSM suggests after verifying that I have good continuity to crank the Jeep and then disconnect the IAC harness. I should have no more than 5v on pin #4 (this is the pin between the tall plug on the harness and the outside of the connector). I say 0-.2v on this wire in the harness. This seems like it could be a combination of having an inexpensive multimeter ($40 Klein) and possible noise from other things in the harness. I also plugged the new IAC in at this point and started the vehicle with someone else outside the vehicle who was able to verify there was no movement on the IAC. The FSM suggests replacing the PCM at this point and that I should consider it suspect since the IAC is still not working, but it seems to check out electrically. Is replacing the PCM the next logical course? Am I missing any troubleshooting steps or is there anything else I should be checking? My XJ runs fine other than the idle issue right now and I'd really like to get it fixed.
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Dec 30, 2020 19:35
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th vwls hv scpd posted:Is replacing the PCM the next logical course? Am I missing any troubleshooting steps or is there anything else I should be checking? My XJ runs fine other than the idle issue right now and I'd really like to get it fixed. Krakkles posted:I found the problem. Check the grounds and the harness where it crosses behind the engine, back of the head (pictured). Your symptoms were within my symptoms, and mine came on progressively. If you do need a PCM, I picked one up from an eBay vendor recently and would wholeheartedly recommend them, I’ll find the link. Edit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Com...4.m46890.l49292 fs1inc was the seller, I think this is right for you, but you know, double check. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Dec 30, 2020 |
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Dec 30, 2020 21:19
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